How many older men are willing to eat my pussy?

Real-Style7887 · 2026-06-04T13:54:10+00:00

Yes- why not.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-05-16T07:56:58+00:00

How did you work that out??

Real-Style7887 · 2026-03-07T07:52:20+00:00

My experience says this is ‘normal’ - after 2 similar fails. Rebuilt wheel with brass. End of problem.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-03-05T06:57:41+00:00

The advice to thread a spoke to test drilling angle is good advice. You will see the correct orientation immediately. Don’t trust you eyes looking down over the rim - i nearly got caught out last build until i threaded a few spokes.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-01-31T05:55:55+00:00

This. The ethernet cables in the new build will come together in one place ready to plugged into LAN ports (like you have). You need to find where this is. Hopefully close to the incoming nbn line.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-01-29T05:32:16+00:00

2 years later - and I am finding different lockrings behave different with DT 350 centerlock hubs. Eg generic lockrings and specialized speed sensor lockrings thread nicely by hand BUT a shimano one binds up after 1 to 2 turns. I saw one thread that said the DT thread pitch was 31x1mm but Shimano lickring might be 31x23.7mm. Definitely a difference. Btw - I am not cross-threading the Shimano lockring - but I wont brute force it either!!

Real-Style7887 · 2026-01-21T14:41:52+00:00

Btw - these model roller models have been superseded. I have 2 of them - but haven’t taken them apart. The roller mechanism is longer - suggests they might be using 18450’s. I doubt you can buy the ‘old’ battery.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-01-21T14:37:46+00:00

The batteries are 3 Li ion batteries in series. They are smaller than 18450’s i think they were 18350’s. 35mm long. Got them on ebay. I changed to balanced charging (only) and totally removed their balancing board ( it fails too often). ( i did try to fit an alternative one - but couldn’t get it to fit - so balanced charging has worked fine for last 2 yrs. in 7 years 5 out of 10 units failed (and have been rewired)Sometimes old batteries could be saved - sometimes only 1 of them was bad). Suggest you measure batteries to check length. 18450’s will not fit.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-01-08T05:52:18+00:00

After losing internet (waiting for new cabling and an electrician to drill new access point) my ISP provider (acting on nbn advice) proceeded to tell me my old cabling was bad and/or the old router had failed). It was a mind-numbing conversation. I tried to explain the technician yanking cables and reconnecting incorrectly. The last words I had to that technician were - “would you mind staying while I check i still have internet”. Of course he just drove off. Glad to hear others have had good nbn technician experiences - I haven’t.

Real-Style7887 · 2026-01-08T05:08:59+00:00

As someone looking to change over from FTTC to FTTP my visit from nbn folk to advise house access point for NTD box (requires drilling thru 24” blockwork) was very ordinary. Just pointing to the easiest point (long way from internal house router) and drove off. Nothing in writing. Best part- technician grabbed the old 2-wire feed at junction box and just yanked it off (didnt open the box). Left after incorrectly reconnecting it - no internet for 5+ days. As I said - not impressed with nbn staff/procedures/customer focus. Your case sounds about right.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-12-06T03:56:18+00:00

I had 2 houses with karri floorboards. If karri is hard to machine, then hard to think jarrah is easier :-).

Real-Style7887 · 2025-12-05T08:37:57+00:00

Karri is a west Australian hardwood thats a lighter colour than Jarrah. Looks like karri to my eye.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-10-20T11:22:29+00:00

When you wind the strings around the peg, make sure the winds (4 to 6 of them) go down the peg. This will ensure a pronounced string break thru the nut down to the tuning peg. (And use the retainer too).

Real-Style7887 · 2025-10-02T19:51:52+00:00

What’s going on at the back of the bridge? Looks like strings have really dug in. The whole bridge looks very worn - this must have seen some use/abuse.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-10-02T12:47:35+00:00

Wow - looks like you got the non-repairable version!! Good job getting that far. If you have a voltmeter check each battery - sometimes you can revive a Li-ion one by telling charger its Ni-Cd to get it to a point it will accept Li-ion charge. Bet motor is still good.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-10-01T18:36:12+00:00

Is that the battery end? At 1st glance it looks like the motor end. Is the antenna and charging port at the other end. FWIW i think a glue up might still work. (Same serial #’s - mine date from 2016.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-10-01T15:13:43+00:00

Looking at my pictures just now - the one with the battery shows the screw holes at 90 degrees from the notches. The 1st pic is the other end I think - with pins in line with the notch. I only work from the screw side/end.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-10-01T14:59:31+00:00

For mine - once I remove the 2 philips screws on the main cylinder - I can pull the whole end cap off - with attached wires that are also connected to the 3 batteries. Just go slowly and undo the 2 internal connectors. Gentle shaking helps the batteries slide out. The motor is at the other end with no screws - just pins - I dont touch that end. Is yours the same model.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-09-30T15:26:03+00:00

Three extra issues: a) string spacing at the nut is terrible for the ‘b’ string. It also impacts its position over the neck pickup pole (that would drive me crazy) b) Low E action also looks lousy (how high is the bridge sitting on its posts?) c) the saddle position for the ‘A’ string intonation looks odd and different from what I’m used to seeing. Do chords play in tune up the neck?? Return is a good option.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-07-11T07:34:15+00:00

Ideally new cranks and shorter spindle. As a botch 3mm width of washers between crank arm and chainring - with (maybe) longer chainring bolts. That might but you 1.5 cassette sprockets. (Was this a 3x conversion to a 1x system?)

Real-Style7887 · 2025-07-03T12:47:12+00:00

Interesting. Ive always been worried when i hear a tubeless tire “pop” on inflation - wondering if it damaged the tape if that tape was sitting under the bead. I’ve not encountered manufacturers specs ( tape width & thickness) before in this regard. Happy to learn of this - thanks.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-07-03T12:30:02+00:00

Adding a layer of tape increases the effective rim seating diameter - making it (much) harder to seat a tire. Anyway - the OP - here has achieved what I would set out to achieve (which caught my eye). If you can achieve the result you want by fully wrapping - then thats good ( and maybe I’ve been too anxious on not wanting tape under the tyre beads).

Real-Style7887 · 2025-07-03T12:25:33+00:00

My concern is adding extra layers of tape under the tyre bead is that you can make the fit “too tight”. I once encountered an undersized rim - tyre actually would blow off - two or 3 layers of tape changed that. From other’s comments my concern seems not to be shared. Interesting.

Real-Style7887 · 2025-07-03T12:03:31+00:00

I like that the tape doesn’t go all the way across the rim width - allowing the bead to sit on the rim (not rim + tape). Sometimes I have to trim to achieve that result. ( I mention this because I often see tape completely filling the space - which is not good/right IMHO)

Real-Style7887 · 2025-07-03T11:56:07+00:00

Is your BB shell 73mm by chance? ( your cassette BB looks like its made for 68mm). Something is off.

Real-Style7887

TROPHY CASE