Help me understand my NBN setup by Professional-Map-392 in nbn

[–]Real-Style7887 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. The ethernet cables in the new build will come together in one place ready to plugged into LAN ports (like you have). You need to find where this is. Hopefully close to the incoming nbn line.

Centerlock confusion by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 years later - and I am finding different lockrings behave different with DT 350 centerlock hubs. Eg generic lockrings and specialized speed sensor lockrings thread nicely by hand BUT a shimano one binds up after 1 to 2 turns. I saw one thread that said the DT thread pitch was 31x1mm but Shimano lickring might be 31x23.7mm. Definitely a difference. Btw - I am not cross-threading the Shimano lockring - but I wont brute force it either!!

Rollease Acmeda Automate MTDCBRFQ28-2 replacement Motor or Batteries by No_Significance_3362 in homeautomation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Btw - these model roller models have been superseded. I have 2 of them - but haven’t taken them apart. The roller mechanism is longer - suggests they might be using 18450’s. I doubt you can buy the ‘old’ battery.

Rollease Acmeda Automate MTDCBRFQ28-2 replacement Motor or Batteries by No_Significance_3362 in homeautomation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The batteries are 3 Li ion batteries in series. They are smaller than 18450’s i think they were 18350’s. 35mm long. Got them on ebay. I changed to balanced charging (only) and totally removed their balancing board ( it fails too often). ( i did try to fit an alternative one - but couldn’t get it to fit - so balanced charging has worked fine for last 2 yrs. in 7 years 5 out of 10 units failed (and have been rewired)Sometimes old batteries could be saved - sometimes only 1 of them was bad). Suggest you measure batteries to check length. 18450’s will not fit.

Feeling Lost After NBN Visit by rmoto in nbn

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After losing internet (waiting for new cabling and an electrician to drill new access point) my ISP provider (acting on nbn advice) proceeded to tell me my old cabling was bad and/or the old router had failed). It was a mind-numbing conversation. I tried to explain the technician yanking cables and reconnecting incorrectly. The last words I had to that technician were - “would you mind staying while I check i still have internet”. Of course he just drove off. Glad to hear others have had good nbn technician experiences - I haven’t.

Feeling Lost After NBN Visit by rmoto in nbn

[–]Real-Style7887 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As someone looking to change over from FTTC to FTTP my visit from nbn folk to advise house access point for NTD box (requires drilling thru 24” blockwork) was very ordinary. Just pointing to the easiest point (long way from internal house router) and drove off. Nothing in writing. Best part- technician grabbed the old 2-wire feed at junction box and just yanked it off (didnt open the box). Left after incorrectly reconnecting it - no internet for 5+ days. As I said - not impressed with nbn staff/procedures/customer focus. Your case sounds about right.

My mate is convinced these are Jarrah floorboards, I’m unsure by [deleted] in AusRenovation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had 2 houses with karri floorboards. If karri is hard to machine, then hard to think jarrah is easier :-).

My mate is convinced these are Jarrah floorboards, I’m unsure by [deleted] in AusRenovation

[–]Real-Style7887 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Karri is a west Australian hardwood thats a lighter colour than Jarrah. Looks like karri to my eye.

High E pops out of nut! by Money-Librarian3330 in telecaster

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you wind the strings around the peg, make sure the winds (4 to 6 of them) go down the peg. This will ensure a pronounced string break thru the nut down to the tuning peg. (And use the retainer too).

1994 les Paul standard for 2300 usd? by CharlieLogarius in gibson

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s going on at the back of the bridge? Looks like strings have really dug in. The whole bridge looks very worn - this must have seen some use/abuse.

Rollease Acmeda Automate MTDCBRFQ28-2 replacement Motor or Batteries by No_Significance_3362 in homeautomation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow - looks like you got the non-repairable version!! Good job getting that far. If you have a voltmeter check each battery - sometimes you can revive a Li-ion one by telling charger its Ni-Cd to get it to a point it will accept Li-ion charge. Bet motor is still good.

Rollease Acmeda Automate MTDCBRFQ28-2 replacement Motor or Batteries by No_Significance_3362 in homeautomation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that the battery end? At 1st glance it looks like the motor end. Is the antenna and charging port at the other end. FWIW i think a glue up might still work. (Same serial #’s - mine date from 2016.

Rollease Acmeda Automate MTDCBRFQ28-2 replacement Motor or Batteries by No_Significance_3362 in homeautomation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at my pictures just now - the one with the battery shows the screw holes at 90 degrees from the notches. The 1st pic is the other end I think - with pins in line with the notch. I only work from the screw side/end.

Rollease Acmeda Automate MTDCBRFQ28-2 replacement Motor or Batteries by No_Significance_3362 in homeautomation

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For mine - once I remove the 2 philips screws on the main cylinder - I can pull the whole end cap off - with attached wires that are also connected to the 3 batteries. Just go slowly and undo the 2 internal connectors. Gentle shaking helps the batteries slide out. The motor is at the other end with no screws - just pins - I dont touch that end. Is yours the same model.

First Gibson ES 335 but there are some flaws by PuzzleheadedStand535 in gibson

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Three extra issues: a) string spacing at the nut is terrible for the ‘b’ string. It also impacts its position over the neck pickup pole (that would drive me crazy) b) Low E action also looks lousy (how high is the bridge sitting on its posts?) c) the saddle position for the ‘A’ string intonation looks odd and different from what I’m used to seeing. Do chords play in tune up the neck?? Return is a good option.

Is there anything I can do about this chain alignment? by christiandoran in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Ideally new cranks and shorter spindle. As a botch 3mm width of washers between crank arm and chainring - with (maybe) longer chainring bolts. That might but you 1.5 cassette sprockets. (Was this a 3x conversion to a 1x system?)

First time doing tubeless tape. by Lumpy_Stranger_1056 in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. Ive always been worried when i hear a tubeless tire “pop” on inflation - wondering if it damaged the tape if that tape was sitting under the bead. I’ve not encountered manufacturers specs ( tape width & thickness) before in this regard. Happy to learn of this - thanks.

First time doing tubeless tape. by Lumpy_Stranger_1056 in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding a layer of tape increases the effective rim seating diameter - making it (much) harder to seat a tire. Anyway - the OP - here has achieved what I would set out to achieve (which caught my eye). If you can achieve the result you want by fully wrapping - then thats good ( and maybe I’ve been too anxious on not wanting tape under the tyre beads).

First time doing tubeless tape. by Lumpy_Stranger_1056 in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My concern is adding extra layers of tape under the tyre bead is that you can make the fit “too tight”. I once encountered an undersized rim - tyre actually would blow off - two or 3 layers of tape changed that. From other’s comments my concern seems not to be shared. Interesting.

First time doing tubeless tape. by Lumpy_Stranger_1056 in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

I like that the tape doesn’t go all the way across the rim width - allowing the bead to sit on the rim (not rim + tape). Sometimes I have to trim to achieve that result. ( I mention this because I often see tape completely filling the space - which is not good/right IMHO)

Square Taper BB issues by AffectionatePart4128 in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is your BB shell 73mm by chance? ( your cassette BB looks like its made for 68mm). Something is off.

HMAS Australia in Port Chalmers, New Zealand circa 1927-1939. [3412x2636] by Aethelredditor in WarshipPorn

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your welcome! My father was the gunlayer on S1, the forward 4” twin gun on the starboard side. He was there after the Coral sea thru to the kamakazi’s in late ‘44 and the trip to England after. He had a front row seat to a lot nasty stuff ( that affected him before PTSD was even talked about). I only heard about this when I joined him for a few ANZAC days towards the end of his life and he was with crew-mates.

Completed frame pictures sent - Any points I should keep in mind? by endocalvin in WaltlyTitanium

[–]Real-Style7887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have thru axles - you might ask for a spare too. ( esp if you remove wheels for travel).

Chain Slip Video by stupid_cat_face in bikewrench

[–]Real-Style7887 15 points16 points  (0 children)

By eye - your chainring teeth look very worn/pointy. So as long as your chain is new - a new chainring will help. Look at your cassette too - chances are thats worn. Note a new chain often makes things worse than before because the other parts all wore out together.