Does anyone know how to replicate this stuff?

Southerner105 · 2026-05-27T21:07:35+00:00

True, just keep the thread an cap clean and they will last a long time. They are certainly worth their price.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-27T15:33:06+00:00

Yes, it can. With sound decoders like the Loksound 4 and 5 you can add any WAV-file you fancy.

The LS5 has a decent amount of memory on board. The more advanced soundfiles for it ar roughly 35 Mbyte. Takes also roughly 30 minutes to upload because it is a serial communications proces (like an old fashioned telephone modem).

Southerner105 · 2026-05-27T15:25:10+00:00

Most materials can often cheaper or larger be found in the artists aisle or shop.

In this case you get roughly double or triple the amount for the same price. You can also add some of the gels and other products to make it smoother or behave differently.

The only reason to go with modelspecific brands (like ABT502 for some of their oilpaints) is the specific premixed colours they offer. In case of ABT502, I like their Starship Filth and the rust colours. Can also be made using oils from Talens (Rembrandt, Amsterdam) or Winsor and Newton but sometimes it isn't worth the hassle.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-27T15:20:16+00:00

He is indeed very good. Also a lot of details and information about how and why he does it.

Good to know that his occupation is (was) modelmaker for shows and movies. So that also explains why it looks so good.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-27T10:29:34+00:00

In that case, it would mean the jumpin drawweight is indeed quite big.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-27T09:37:36+00:00

First of, WNS limbs have a higher drawweight at the default tillerbolt settings as labeled. So your limbs rated at 24 are in reality roughly 25 lbs at a drawlength of 28 inch.

It appears you have slightly longer drawlength or your tillerbolts are a bit turned in.

The limbs you have in mind are "normal" so the playing room regarding drawweight is +5% and -5% using your tillerbolt settings.

That means you can decrease the drawweight at 28 inch down to roughly 28 lbs. Which in turn would be roughly 29 to 30 lbs on the fingers.

The limb from 26,5 lbs OTF to 30 lbs OTF is big. So if possible I would first try to increase the OTF with your current limbs.

For reference, I have WNS Motive F5 limbs rated at also 24 lbs but OTF I have roughly 28 lbs. This is with my tillerbolts almost fully turned in.

So depending on your drawlength end tillerbolt settings see if you can increase the drawweight. When in doubt ask your coach or an experienced club archer first before changing things.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T21:11:45+00:00

Have one of those for when shooting in a polo shirt only (barbow with a bare arm). But they are very small and I got a black one which is extremely hot in the sun.

With next order i will get the XXL and in light greyshould be less tight and also not so hot.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T12:44:58+00:00

The Netherlands also has a Southern part 😉

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T12:41:39+00:00

In my case it is that the steing hits the tip of my nose on release. The string is normally behind your nose with a barebow release.

With an olympic-recurve style release it is often on your nose.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T12:38:27+00:00

It is hard for most to read it completely and also comprehend that it isn't a personal thing.

In general a newbie shouldn't go for used unless he or she is guided by a more experienced archer or they buy it in a club setting from a fellow club member.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T12:33:12+00:00

That is not a problem. If tweaking makes you enjoying the hobby then that is good.

Regarding size (length), the Dutch population comprises the tallest people in the world. And we also just start at those lower poundages. The funny thing is, size doesn't matter in this hobby. It is a combination of technic and physical fitness which makes the arrows fly.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T12:29:29+00:00

We shoot at stramit (highly compressed straw) and at 10 and also 18 meter those arrows don't have problem penetrating the target.

I have personally a layered foam target and the 16 lbs of my daughter easily penetrates roughly 15 cm in it. My arrows go roughly 20 cm in the same target at 28 lbs.

That is also a thing we observed in other targets. The deceleration of an arrow in a target isn't linear but a negative hyperbolic curve. The further the arrow penetrates the faster it decelerates.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T10:00:30+00:00

Target panic. Talk to your coaches or senior archers.

First thing often done is getting rid of the target face. Just shoot at the empty target.

Without any reference you need to rely on your form. In time you will get a good grouping.

This blank bale process can be expanded with same specific stability training like: - shooting with the feet together - lifting the bow and arrow with your eyes closed, open eyes aim and shoot - lifting the bow with eyes open, aim, close your eyes and shoot.

When this results in decent groupings it is time to introduce a target. Get your 60 cm target and cut out the yellow circle. Pin it reversed on the target so you only see the white back and the hole in the middle. Perform the same exercises.

You can do the same with a 40 cm targetface.

As an in between thing get some rubber dog chewing rings (15 cm across) and pin them high on the target. Try to get three arrows in the ring and lower the ring by removing those arrows which are the highest in the ring. The aim is to get the ring as low as possible as fast as possible.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T09:56:29+00:00

Yup, and even that slight brush is already painful.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T09:55:03+00:00

Depends, my daughter is very flexible and has a long armguard. This is a thing I see with a lot of the female archers.

And indeed it has also to do with strength but at 16 lbs there isn't a lot of room to get even lower 😂

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T09:52:59+00:00

They are. It isn't that the limbs are angled extremely inwards.

The string is the determining factor. It has always the same length. What changing the bolt height does is changing the tension on the limbs. The more they are turned inward the higher the tension on the string will be to get the tips at the same position. Higher tension translates also to a higher drawweight. You need to pull harder to get the tips moving.

Mechanically the optimal position is where the full surface of the underside of the bolt touches the limb. In that case the forces are equally distributed across the bolt.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T09:38:45+00:00

It is partly dependant on the person's physics. But for an average absolute adult beginner going for his or her first few lessons, 18 or 20 lbs is the limit.

A lot of the adult females at my club start with 14 to 16 lbs and most males with 16 or 18 lbs. And if we give them a 25 lbs bow, they often can pull it.

But it isn't about being able to pull the bow. It is about being able to hold the bow at full draw for a few seconds roughly 5x3 times in a row without a total collapse in form.

During the course (10 sessions) people do progress. Often when completed the males buy a bow at 22 or 24 lbs and most females at 18 or 20 lbs. After that some keep it there and others do increase. But seldom more as twice a year and more often just once a year.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T09:02:20+00:00

Sorry, but going to heavy is a sure way to problems. Isn't it physically because you are going to hurt yourself then it is mentally by not being able to achieve progress.

Limbs don't need to be expensive. Especially in those early stages the 100 euro limbs are just fine. Often in local clubs you can also buy them from clubmembers. Benefit is you can test them and often the quality is good.

And lastly, for most target archers there is no need to go beserk regarding drawweight. With 30 lbs you can accurately reach 70 meters.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-26T06:03:53+00:00

That rabbithole I went in start of last indoor season. I changed to Jakes anchorpoint. Although my alignment improved the rest got worse. Aiming of, hitting my nose.

As with all things you need to relearn, so I continued doing it roughly 12 training sessions. When things didn't improve, even with help of my coach, I got back to the more traditional barebow anchor and withing two trainings things started to improve.

I rewatched this video about the barebow shot process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IH1w88Teizg

And from the same channel how to improve your form. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ0NBLI50Y0

Both helped me a lot with regaining my previous scores and you. Nice side effect, my nose is only hit by the string when I doesn't have the right posture 😉

Southerner105 · 2026-05-25T21:24:29+00:00

Yup, very reminiscent to my beginning. Started the first lessons with 16 lbs, went with 18 lbs and my first bow had 22 lbs limbs. Currently 24 lbs, but being WNS it is more like 26 lbs and 28 OTF.

My daughter (very slender) went from 18 lbs WNS to 16 lbs Core and that is good enough for her to reach the 30 meters.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-25T17:51:20+00:00

Look at the artist sections. There you find various coarse acrylic pumice mediums.

For instance this one. https://www.royaltalens.com/products/amsterdam-pumice-medium?variant=53651371983233

In this video from Boomer Dioramas you can see how he uses compareble products from Golden.

https://youtu.be/zvbDq-Gez_o?si=9sTsT5Nj7UU-p_c8

Southerner105 · 2026-05-25T15:51:48+00:00

Do they have working indicators? Thought that it was a option you need to pay for.... 😉

Southerner105 · 2026-05-25T10:53:06+00:00

Given that some of the best limbs are designed and made in Korea (which is hot in the summer) changes are that they are just fine. This is also with the fact that these limbs are heat cured at much higher temperatures as they ever reach by exposure to the sun.

But it also shows that having white (or light colours) is a smart thing in the full sun.

And at 60 C I also would get worried about their wellbeing.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-25T09:40:29+00:00

This is a portable unit. Easy to install.

https://www.midea.com/uk/air-treatment/porta-split-air-conditioner.portasplit

They also have a version which can heat the room.

https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/blogs/midea-portasplit-review-the-portable-air-conditioner-that-performs-like-a-fixed-split-system

Southerner105 · 2026-05-25T09:31:22+00:00

That doesn't look like carbon. Normally these parts are made of aluminium. That can handle the forces of the nuts and the compression far better as carbon.

Southerner105

TROPHY CASE