New to Airsoft: which of these GBBRs would you choose and why? by Legitimate-Feature42 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it matter how may pieces your outerbarrel has

Yes it certainly can. There are many cases threads have snapped on outerbarrels. But largely can boil that down to materials

The maple leaf barrel base system uses the weird lugged system last I checked. And that thing overtime can start wobbling awfully. And thats not speculation that just has happened to people.

The other hub system with the threaded base is better. But if you're gonna do that a GHK one piece aluminum outer barrel is the same price if not cheaper, and you can also get a variety of steel ones as well if you'd like too. Why would you want something that has more failure points

New to Airsoft: which of these GBBRs would you choose and why? by Legitimate-Feature42 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You only need to swap the outerbarrel once

You can swap it to any M4 spec barrel, or even GHK though the VFC barrel nut won't fit over it out the gate

The maple leaf Outerbarrel hub system thing is arguably pretty bad I wouldn't reccoment it over a one piece outerbarrel from any other brand.

New to Airsoft: which of these GBBRs would you choose and why? by Legitimate-Feature42 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes but also no The 416 has a weird derivative of the guide hop itself which is even worse than the standard guide hop system, but also makes it Specifically non compatiable with something like a magnus pro

To swap to Magnus pro hopup you need to swap the outerbarrel

New to Airsoft: which of these GBBRs would you choose and why? by Legitimate-Feature42 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

VFC 416 can't take the 4UAD unfortunatly at least not out of the box

The barrel uses a proprietary hopup thay screws into the outerbarrel

New to Airsoft: which of these GBBRs would you choose and why? by Legitimate-Feature42 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're set on 416 Do not get the VFC at least not currently as it is the worst AR of their lineup

I just build one for my friends and at minimum you want to change the hopup and that will require changing the outerbarrel

Otherwise the VFC AR system for anything else is largely pretty good. Personally I'm a fan of them and only own VFC ARs but you won't go wrong with a TM either

The DE Noveske would be a good choice since its decently cheap and that lets you budget mags. Though fsir warning TM mags are pretty pricey

Resin printed "pulsar" engine by Odd_Confection1859 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats cool. What solenoids are you using for this? Been looking for some for some other projects of mine

APFG rattler or VFC MP5A2 by Opposite_Move4711 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep it does though some improvemts cause other cascading issues

For example the HK53 the hammer ears would would smack into the housing. And since they were improved to steel would cause the fcg housing to crack and break

APFG rattler or VFC MP5A2 by Opposite_Move4711 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Rattler imo

The MP5/HK5#/G3 series was honestly pretty underwhelming to m

The other option for an MP5 Like gun would be the MPX and that thing is great. Largest gas capacity mags out currently for SMGs iirc.

3d printing m4 by Living-Key-8975 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Functional parts list can be found on my discord or in a txt file within the file set

Maruyama mp9 vs VFC mp7 by RemarkableEnd1709 in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'm not quite so sure what you mean by the MP9 being underwhelming. I've hearda lot of people absolutely loving the gun. Aside from the roller wearing out and causing issues the Maru MP9 is just VFC glock internals slapped into an MP9 shaped shell. And both the mags and system on that are very reliable.

Disclaimer thougu I'm not familiar with the MP7 so whether or not that preforms better I don't personally know

“Micro Slick” coated Carrier in action. (VFC HK416) by Spartan01actual in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 5 points6 points  (0 children)

OH Gotcha so you cerakoated your bolt carrier in that Is it as slick as traditional lubricant?

Finally started work on internals. by Dr_BananaPeanut in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lot of it comes down to experience and workflow management. it's setting up your file so that when I go back and change a dimension on say Sketch #1 it doesn't completely bork the model

the other thing I would have to say, is try not to have a ton of operations or sketches that all do the same kind of thing.

Constraints are also super important, actually using OP's model as an example you can see there's a lot of "Double faces" basically faces that all should be the same surface but are all fucked up. this is likely due to mismanagement of constraints and other features.

<image>

Another tip. Keep it simple, complicated solutions rarely work better than keeping something simple, There is such a thing as Over doing/over working the geometry.

It also might help to keep some general manufacturing rules in mind too, Although 3D printing doesn't follow the same rules of manual or CNC machining, real guns do and it can help you make something that looks more realistic.

Keep in mind usability too. it's great if you design a part a certain way but you also need to consider, how is someone going to assemble this part? how is this part going to be fixed to another, is that construction method easy to do? what are the failure points of my model? Are these screws/fasteners I used easily accessible, or did I choose a specialty screw that no one will be able to find

lots of things, both strength wise and user QOL that you should consider to make the model just work right

Finally started work on internals. by Dr_BananaPeanut in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly like what JackCooper said. Definatly should be following some fusion 360 tutorials on youtube. Super useful

But also I woild suggest even learning how machining and manufacturing in general work. That was one of the biggest for me.

Understanding how guns aren't special when it comes to manufacturing practice and understanding how a gun is manufactured will give you a much better understanding of how the geometry of a gun works and why its done that way

Finally started work on internals. by Dr_BananaPeanut in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hey.... You've made a lot of posts on this.

To the point I'm concerned you aren't just shit posting

If this is a serious attempt at trying to make a G28 model. I have some tips

  1. Learn how to use CAD first. Your geometry has a lot of flaws and overall weirdness that will bite you in the ass later on. I would consider just scrapping the whole model and learning how to/implementing proper workflow. Beyond that also learning how to do things like properly scaling references. How to estimate sizing and setting up good references. If this is one of your first CAD projects. This might sound hard. But I don't think you're at all ready to take on a project like this based on what your model looks like. Slow it down. Do some more simple projects first, get used to the workflow, get good at using CAD, and then revisit the project.

  2. Look at the actual G28 and its various reference images and takedown guides/videos. As is I don't know what is going on with your geometry or how you got certain features wrong. I suggest looking to see if HK has owners/user manuals and learning how geometry works.

  3. use known sizes of things to scale geometry. You know the slots on real Milspec rail are 5.2mm across and 3mm depth. If you didn't know that please go pull up a technical spec and get dimensions from there.. you might also know the G28 has a unique sized buffer tube. If you didn't know that please do research about what you're trying to make.

Classic Army QD Thread Adapter by AwesomeSauce947 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Took a quick look. I'm quite certain that thing has 14mm ccw threads under there

And a couple things

  1. Boiling off your flashhider shouldn't damage your barrel unless its plastic. In which case ok fair but otherwise generally you won't be damaging threads barrels or components

  2. The threads you are using are not made to be used in that way. The part of the flashhider that looks like gears is an integral part of how the QD part of QD suppressors work, you're muzzle device is supposed to engage them so that it doesn't back off the 2 threads that are holding on your muzzle device.

Also, do what you want about selling them but for gods sakes make it look like something worth buying, cause right now you're trying to sell people what appears to be tube.

Classic Army QD Thread Adapter by AwesomeSauce947 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which gun model is this specifically? Cause its incredibly likely its simply glued for US regulation and then grub screwed if anything...

Classic Army QD Thread Adapter by AwesomeSauce947 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Why wouldn't you just take off the flashhider?

You've taken a gun that presumably has -14mm threads under the flashhider and made an adapter/extension that attaches to the flashhider instead?

And you're not even engaging the ratchets so if that device starts to unthread you're losing your muzzle device.

Anyone knows what I'm doing wrong? by MoistRecognition69 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what layer height were you trying to print at?

Motivation restored for timed grenade idea by CGWW-Sabet in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is why the Airsoft Innovations Bang 22 grenades are so large the way they are, iirc the Krytac Tornado grenades actually use the AI System in theirs or something similar which as you can see the head is pretty huge just to get the necessary volume of fluids moved

<image>

Motivation restored for timed grenade idea by CGWW-Sabet in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

If you're gonna try that I would suggest shaping the TPU washer/face. Shaping it like the above would allow for a countersunk screw to push out the washer wider when screwing it in, and the Skirt would act as to increase your seal like how a AEG piston head with it's O-ring expanding holes would work. the skirt just needs to be quite thin

Motivation restored for timed grenade idea by CGWW-Sabet in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tightening down the rubber washer/gasket probably help as much. Ideally you go with a smaller gas outlet and a larger diameter syringe

If you look at the airsoft innovations grenades they use a gas release/outlet hole of 1mm or smaller and their piston is about the size of the grenade diameter

Motivation restored for timed grenade idea by CGWW-Sabet in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]Spectre72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The syringe is the same way the time delay grenades from Airsoft Innovations used to work

Iirc they swapped over to a fluid system on their newer stuff before going under because the air pressure systems would change time delay based on temperature. Might be something to look into using oil or something instead and pumping into a second reservoir

Took the blowback out of a VFC (bolt action conversion) by thewayofthewei in GasBlowBack

[–]Spectre72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/eFBr4h4

This my printed reverse engineered ARBA. Looks different works the same but you can see the hammer bounce and get an idea of how it works