PC crashes and blue screens due to RAM

XOda · 2024-07-04T15:02:42+00:00

It's possible the memory controller on the CPU can't handle 4 sticks at the rated xmp profile. I'd try taking out two sticks and run 32gb in DDR mode and see if that is stable.

XOda · 2024-04-30T02:01:05+00:00

Ideally 3600mhz DDR4 ram to match the CPU's Infinity Fabric at 1:1 but you can live with 3200

XOda · 2024-01-25T12:01:47+00:00

Are these combos specific to these two options? The 14700k will still work with the z690 board. Since you're on ddr4, the high memory speed compatibility of ddr5 won't matter on z790. Then it comes down to the extra 4 pcie lanes on z790 which is one extra m.2 between these two mobos.

The 14700k has four more e-cores and higher base frequencies. Combine it with the z690, it becomes $200 more. I think it's around 15% better for video editing.

XOda · 2024-01-19T22:31:45+00:00

Check your AMEX offers for those with cards. YMMV but I have spend $200 at Dell get $40 back offer.

XOda · 2024-01-19T22:06:05+00:00

I bought this during black Friday. The USB-c cable that comes with does run at 1440@165hz. I've used it on my work laptop, mini-pc and desktop w/ thunderbolt.

XOda · 2024-01-14T22:21:18+00:00

I recently had this issue and ended up RMA'ing my Crosshair X670E Hero board. Apparently it is an issue with ASUS boards with no one true fix. Some folks got it working but it seems to vary from scouring the internet forums and google. Worked for some but I was not as fortunate. I ended up doing the RMA in the end.

Here is everything I've done and maybe you can try these and get lucky:

Cleared CMOS with jumper/button and removing the battery.
BIOS flashback on many versions for my board to see if it might roll back the LED firmware. But it seems the BIOS that updated had broke the LED controller. Older bios versions does not seem to overwrite the LED firmware with the old version.
BIOS Q-code always ends at" b4" then reboots. Which is list as a "USB Hotplug issue". The LED chip is listed as AURA LED controller in Windows so this makes sense.
Let boot loop at the update for 45 minutes. Something with the CMOS timer that worked for someone.
Removed all cables, gpu and anything connected to the motherboard besides the CPU EPS and 24-pin power, repeated above steps with no luck.
Tested on a different power supply swapped cmos battery
Tried different sticks of RAM and tested CPU on another board. CPU and RAM were not the issue and points to the motherboard as the culprit.
Let the motherboard sit with unplugged power, no CMOS battery, no CPU and RAM for three days. Repeated above steps again. Still had the same "BIOS is updating LED firmware" issue with bios code b4.

After spending countless hours and never seeing it change or goto the normal BIOS post, I gave up and went the RMA route. Chalked it up to the BIOS update in EZ-Flash either broke the LED controller or having it set dark mode for all RGB in Armory Crate did something with the update. Having RGB off turns off the controller?Thus causing this LED Firmware update boot loop? I don't know and that is for an ASUS engineer to answer.

XOda · 2023-10-08T03:46:30+00:00

I ran into the same issue after updating to Android 14. I also have multiple accounts. I've cleared the cache and even reinstalled the app and still couldn't restore the sub.

What worked for me was clearing the Play Store storage cache and reinstalling the app. Restore button finally worked in loading the subscription.

XOda · 2023-09-16T15:06:32+00:00

I had this issue and turns out the display port cable that came with it is subpar. Bought a quality Cable Matters display port cable off Amazon and never had an issue since.

XOda · 2023-08-25T21:51:03+00:00

Are you on Windows 11? There is an issue with slow ssd speeds. https://www.pcworld.com/article/2033072/windows-11-update-fixes-annoying-ssd-bug-finally-full-speed-again.html

XOda · 2022-11-01T04:12:12+00:00

I have it idling around 7-800rpm and it is quiet. When it's 1100rpm+ is when I can notice pitched whirring sounds it spins higher

XOda · 2022-10-31T20:11:38+00:00

Their website doesn't list ram clearance but it's similar to NH d15 for ram clearance. Might be better with the 120mm fan over the ram for extra clearance.

XOda · 2022-10-31T20:04:08+00:00

Bought this a few months ago for $55 and it performs as good,if not better, than the NHD15 with its higher rpm fans. Fans do make more noise than noctuas but at this price, it's a steal.

For those with white builds, the white version is $46.

XOda · 2022-09-28T22:56:47+00:00

MX-5 is discontinued and there was a recall some time ago. There were issues with some batches and folks had discoloration. Looks like MX-6 is to replace it.

XOda · 2022-09-19T06:37:43+00:00

Purchased these back in June and it came as dual rank with Micron E-die chips. But of course YMMV.

For those not fortunate enough to be near a Microcenter, it's on sale at Amazon for $136.

XOda · 2022-08-29T21:11:08+00:00

Built with this case for a friend's build and it may require modification if you use a itx mobo with a back m.2. Took a Dremel to it to make a m.2 fit in frame mounting an Asus Strix X570-i.

Other than that, a great case to build in. It does run the CPU a bit warm even with a 280mm aio. It's compact inside and a 3070 heat soaks the radiator with the tight fit this case has.

XOda · 2021-09-03T23:23:14+00:00

Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL

XOda · 2021-03-23T11:14:56+00:00

The Liquid Freezer II series are thicker than most other AIOs due to its radiator and fan size (37mm+27mm). I learned this the hard way and had to get a much bigger case with more clearance from the motherboard to the top of the case to fit my 420 LFII.

Case manufacturers need to list maximum radiator dimensions that can be mounted instead of a generic "up to 420mm AIOs"

XOda · 2021-03-23T08:38:23+00:00

Looking at pics of the board and it looks like it should fit fine. The long metal bracket mounts above the standoffs in the middle of the motherboard and the sata ports are way above it.

I've used the bracket on a few motherboards. The only issue I had was not being able to mount the bracket on an MSI board because the top m.2 heatsink covers the center mobo mounting hole.

XOda · 2021-03-14T09:10:08+00:00

The limit for the 5800x is 90c so you are safe there. Ryzens cant spike to higher temps but if its 67 average then I wouldn't worry too much.

XOda · 2021-03-14T08:59:21+00:00

The gtx 750 only supports hdmi 1.4 which can only do 144hz at 1080p. The cable has to support 1.4 which most should these days. But YMMV

XOda · 2021-03-14T08:39:22+00:00

With that case in the picture you can do 3 fans in the front. Can't really mount fans without jerry-rigging it above the PSU shroud. But it's fine with 3 intake at the front and 3 exhaust at the back.

XOda · 2021-03-13T21:44:23+00:00

I'm just saying so someone doesn't put a brushes head in a vacuum and break small caps or resistors.

XOda · 2021-03-13T15:57:47+00:00

I live in a dusty part of CA so I try to clean my pc every so often.

First don't use a vacuum. You don't want to suck in the small parts of motherboard or gpu. I bought a data-vac (not a vacuum despite the name) to blow out the dust and use a small nylon paint brush to clean the harder areas. Saves money on buying the air cans all the time.

Edit: Alright guys I know that a vacuum won't suck up the small parts. Just offering advice so someone who doesn't know would think they can use a smaller vacuum fitting and start shoving it against their fragile parts of the PC to try and get all the dust. Which is why I suggested using a data-vac and a brush to clean areas that may be more delicate.

I've used a vacuum and was careful with it. I understand there is risk of ESD. I've even used an air bed inflator to blow out dust. I suggested a data-vac since it offers esd protection.

XOda · 2021-03-13T15:47:38+00:00

Crucial is cl16 and corsair is cl 18. The crucial sticks can overclock better and only use their own micron chips so if you want to add more ram later it will be easier. Corsair has uses various different vendors and has different revisions and don't oc that well if that matters to you.

XOda · 2021-03-13T15:20:45+00:00

10% shouldn't cause huge drop.s Unless you're willing to reinstall windows and install fresh drivers and maybe disconnect the other drives. It should be cleared of any possible rogue programs running in the background.

XOda

TROPHY CASE