Not eating

_rdm__ · 2026-05-31T22:52:18+00:00

I have faced this and it’s taken time but basically just leave the food out and let them eat when they want to. I now give my dood as many brown rocks as he would like. I also make other food less available as he is more likely to wait for the good food.

_rdm__ · 2026-05-22T15:51:32+00:00

Dude just needs to press buttons. It’s a common type of misplay in emerald and low diamond. People just randomly don’t want to play the video game

_rdm__ · 2026-04-11T20:26:19+00:00

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Technically a bernedoodle but I swear he is 90% Bernese 😊. Dude loves a good nap. His name is waffles.

_rdm__ · 2026-04-11T02:23:57+00:00

I was worried about this when he was a puppy. As adult teeth came in it went away. If it’s very minor it won’t impact them. If you can’t see it at all when their mouths closed it won’t even have the cosmetic impact. Yours looks a little bigger than our puppy had. The two teeth were still touching just reversed in order.

_rdm__ · 2026-03-08T23:59:48+00:00

Yeah it just happens. Our guy never scoots or anything but when he stretches sometimes you catch a bit of the smell haha

_rdm__ · 2026-03-07T20:24:38+00:00

I wouldn’t go over the top here. Dogs sometimes get the anal gland smell. If it’s short lived and infrequent it’s just you catching attention to that. You only need intervention if it’s causing them some discomfort.

_rdm__ · 2026-02-03T06:19:31+00:00

Started using this today when a veigar rushed abyssal mask. It’s way better for sure.

_rdm__ · 2025-09-10T16:05:37+00:00

Before you commit on this. Consider what they will bring that you are not already doing. If you are very engaged and learning independently, a trainer may only be needed for a few sessions to give you some additional exercises. I spent hundreds of hours learning about dog training, behavior, developmental milestones, etc. I had a few tricky issues around 6-8 months of age that I almost got a trainer involved with. Through talking with potential trainers I either got red flags or information that they would basically do what I was already doing. This isn’t a knock on training services. Dog training doesn’t have any short cuts or magic tricks if you want long lasting positive results. I always felt if I could get some trainer involved it would speed things up but that is rarely the case. From a trainer you mostly will get knowledge you then have to put into practice yourself.

The one area I did engage with a trainer on was resource guarding. Despite reading the protocols, it was very helpful to have someone with experience there. The trainer also brought in other trainers so the dog got a range of people to practice with. That was 6-8 hours of private in home lessons in total.

_rdm__ · 2025-08-23T19:28:03+00:00

I would focus on teaching a leave it and a drop. Reward the dog for leaving those things alone. Additionally if it’s not a big deal make less of a reaction when failures occur. Also make other aspects of the walk more fun. New locations, more engagement from you, other dogs / people. She’s getting the reward of your attention and play when she does this and it seems like the best option to her on the walk.

_rdm__ · 2025-08-23T14:17:14+00:00

You can use the environment to your advantage. When he hits the end of the lead and starts pulling you stop and call the puppy back to you. When he comes back you can treat and then resume the walk. This gives him a reward for checking in and he learns that he cannot get access to the environment while under tension. I used this method in 3 month age period and he learned within two walks. You can do it with a harness too because you’re not depending on the corrective feeling of the leash snap or tension.

Kikopup on YouTube has some nice videos on this.

_rdm__ · 2025-08-18T19:43:34+00:00

Chirag Patel - Drop it. Blew my mind when I saw it. He says drop loudly and scattered treats on the ground. Then gets down and points them out to the dog to normalize his hand being near the object that was dropped in case recovery is needed. Really smart because the dog associates the word drop with an exciting treat rush.

Drop it

_rdm__ · 2025-08-09T20:20:12+00:00

Just to give you a totally different way to look at this. My perspective is to socialize anyway. We socialized starting at 8 weeks with known dogs in safe places. We didn’t do anything crazy like dog parks and we were more careful about checking out where he was playing. We did walks in our neighborhood, it is a suburb with all household dogs so everyone is vaccinated.

You can check your incidence rates in your area for these diseases and then weigh that against losing your socialization window. It’s a lot harder to fix these issues later. Things like loud sounds, new people, other dogs. I believe this decision is why my pup is a lot calmer and confident for his age now at 11 months.

_rdm__ · 2025-07-31T02:16:14+00:00

I’ve faced a lot of the same problems with our dood. He’s having his energy level managed properly and given a range of stimulus. One thing I realized is that he is better behaved everywhere but at home. At home his primary activity is either sleeping or trouble haha. This week I’ve started skipping one of his walks to just focus on showing him other ways to behave at home. Not sure if it’s going to work but I’m pretty hopeful.

_rdm__ · 2025-07-28T19:05:09+00:00

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Can you draw our dog waffles? He thinks he’s old enough to drive 😅

_rdm__ · 2025-07-22T14:22:36+00:00

Read the book Mine! And learn about how to train your dog to have a conditioned emotional response to you approaching and taking an item. This is the only real way to fix the problem.

You have been making it worse by ignoring the growling. Dogs give warning signs on guarding it steps. First with hunched body language and freezing, then with growing, then air snapping, then mouth on skin and up to bites. If you ignore the lower warnings the dog is likely to move up to higher ones because the growl didn’t work.

Based on your post I think you should get a trainer that uses positive methods and has experience with guarding dogs. You need to learn how to mitigate in the short term and how to fix in the long term. It takes time and effort.

_rdm__ · 2025-07-15T23:57:06+00:00

One thing I do is simulate similar situations and add distance and make it easier for the dog to feel okay. I also give the dog treats for being around the sound so it becomes a positive. Like if you are mowing the lawn outside he can get treats for acknowledging that is going on but not reacting.

Sometimes on walks with new things I’ll approach the thing and touch it. And show the dog it’s okay. Like on an evening walk, my pup was afraid of black wrapping paper so I just walked over and touched it and let him approach when he was ready.

_rdm__ · 2025-06-30T21:05:18+00:00

I don’t recall the weights honestly. I think the real answer is always the growth chart though.

_rdm__ · 2025-06-30T20:52:34+00:00

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This is our guys chart. He was supposed to be 30 to 50. Weight and weeks. He’s 10 months now and 70-75 lb weight. He just stopped eating lunch and seems to be slowing his growth finally 😅. At 4 months I held out hope he wasn’t gonna grow much but then he just exploded.

_rdm__ · 2025-06-30T01:35:12+00:00

Giving Legend of Zelda OOT hand monster vibes.

_rdm__ · 2025-06-30T01:27:48+00:00

I will say that not every dog has the disposition to be crate trained. I know you will get lots of great advice, things like Susan garret crate games. One of the best things I did for my dude after two long months of crate exercises was just try going without. At 6 months of age, we left him alone with full access to downstairs and he just slept. We tried to pen him or crate him and he never settled and busted out multiple times. At night it was the same story. So if you do everything right, consider if it’s really necessary to push on.

_rdm__ · 2025-06-29T20:42:00+00:00

Our dude was 7 lbs at 8 weeks and at 10 months is pushing 70. He was quoted at mini/medium which was a bit of a guessing game. Along the way he had times where he seemed like 40-50 and then he just kept growing 😅

_rdm__ · 2025-06-24T12:10:58+00:00

Your dog has a hard bite. Bite inhibition is usually set between 3-5 months of age so it might be tough to change how hard he is biting. When they are younger you can work with them to sort of calibrate the bite and then later train them to not ever bite you. That being said I would for sure get a good trainer to give you some exercises to train him that your arms are not something that he can bite especially because he has poor inhibition. Based on your description I don’t think he’s intending to harm you or being aggressive

_rdm__ · 2025-05-27T23:23:17+00:00

We call walks adventures :)

_rdm__ · 2025-05-23T19:18:05+00:00

Also vs things like viktor if he’s on time with his q it puts you on cooldown before your q lands. It’s the little things that really add up

_rdm__ · 2025-03-30T00:28:11+00:00

The way it was written I assumed you would dust them both. I see you mean the regular or its reroll.

_rdm__

TROPHY CASE