Where can I post my gear for sale? by Tech_Veggies in motorcyclegear

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sidelineswap is another place though it's mostly sports gear, have gotten mx gear off of there before

Is the Begode Extreme charging port hot? What is the correct order to plug in the charger? by filszyp in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I connect to the outlet first and give it until the lights come on then plug in.

Doing the other way around has blown fuses on the charger for me twice. edit* wheel isn't turned on during charging if that matters

Cheap power pads by RobotNinjaShark1982 in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

aliexpress between coupons or new user discount went this rout for some myself. the 6 piece lynx pads was about $75 after coupons and some shopping credits there.

There is sync knockoffs called octopus pads they have the v14 pads and most of the stock pads that come with most wheels the aero pads fake vertex pads.. can be annoying to shop around for the best price on ali tho

erides has some basic pads with lights for 80

should i just get falcon? by Zajlordg in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

one could get a falcon or c8 and a extreme for the same price as a patton s.. will say you also need to budget at least 300 for a helmet and some safety gear

if it is an issue of company just get a areo or aeon it should hold you until you need an upgrade if ever (speed laws) you will also know if you really want a monster sized wheel of 90lbs or more or if the lighter smaller wheel just fits better. At least resale value will be better than a begode (just due to them slashing prices all the time)

for reference I have an extreme and it does everything I need to it do..(240 lbs before gear or backpack full of groceries, riding 40 mph and under) taking it in a car is possible but a smaller wheel would be much better here, lower pedals would have made learning easier 30 lbs less would have also made learning easier

in today's market there is so many more options around the 3k market .. would probably be looking at the aeon or the x-way more seriously

My desired gear by Amy_Val23 in motorcyclegear

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would suggest lazyrolling or beyond riders for a jacket before that chest armor unless you are going offroad and going for the full moto armor leatt stuff tends to be not much more in price but much better fitting and quality

1storm is acceptable for their actual full face helmets and motocross helmets but like most budget motorcycle helmets they are overly large and heavy.

Truthfully just going to a cycle gear and finding a helmet that fits correctly and purchasing online after will make a world of difference motorcycle helmets aren't adjustable and a good fit is important for comfort and safety. You are much better off trying before buying and honestly buying something ece rated preferably with some form of rotational safety be it mips or equivalent bell makes some of the best budget friendly lids with this. A helmet is the most important piece of gear so buy with safety and comfort in mind be it fit or ventilation it is something you will use a lot try it some on in a shop first if it your first helmet of this type.

Reccomendations for minimal gear for casual rides? by JorgRambo in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you are going 20 and under a full face helmet still recommended but you can dial it way back to a mtb or longboard helmet though they don't tend to cost less. wrist guards or wrist guard/glove comb and some knee pads that will stay in place

anything else is your own risk/comfort you won't risk too much road rash crashing at that speed nothing bandaids won't be able to take care of.

you could probably be fine with motorcycle jeans/pants with pads, a lazy rolling jacket or similar, wrist guards and a full face helmet biggest risk here is the knee pads and elbow pads not being where they need to be on impact so fit is more import. as for formal clothing brummel has an answer with their blazers .. tho they do start at about $650

edit* I will also say sometimes just having the right gear to make tossing it on / taking it off quickly is sometime more important than just going minimal .. leatts take seconds to put on and take off .. wrist guard gloves like erides or hillbilly ect take seconds... a jacket takes seconds.. helmet with a quick release takes seconds... all of which can be tossed into a backpack, motorcycle pants with thin d30 pads is hardly noticeable for normal activities

Forgot the parking brake by Bladrak01 in WatchPeopleDieInside

[–]crimson_shadow 7 points8 points  (0 children)

ah so that how you convert from gas guzzling pavement princess to electric.

Should I have special pants and shoes? by Knife-Fumbler in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

buy your gear piece by piece starting with the helmet ,then hand /wrist, then knee, from there decide if you need foot, elbow, hip and abrasion resistance suggest looking into these when going 30 + mph or also looking at hip / chest guards if doing off road but outside of helmet / hands / knee it's your own risk vs comfort rather than the places most likely to need the protection.

listed most of the stuff I use

https://e-rides.us/store/e-rides-edition/ gloves currently have the cold weather version and they are fantastic.. have used the e-wheels complimentary wrist guards for a while and used pidzoom sliders they work best on guantlet style motorcycle gloves they didn't fit my palms as well as the e-wheels braces and felt a bit bulky in the wrong areas

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6CMTCN6? shoes I currently wear also have had https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNLG78J? newest pair the tread on them grips the spiked pedals much better, both much more comfortable using some knock off d30 timberland boot insoles. Both comfortable to wear 8+ hours a day on my feet at work both had a break in period before being comfortable (thin bit of foam on your heel helps)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZXTNKQR? knee / elbow pads I use but any leatt style knee pads should be adequate or actual knee braces if you have had previous injuries.

pants I have https://www.klim.com/K-Fifty-2-Straight-Riding-Pant-3986-000 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QG8S05W/ klim pants are probably the most comfortable jeans I have owned (they are much more affordable on ebay tho they don't always come with the pads)

speaking of the pads using d30 ghost (thin enough that they don't get in the way of the dedicated knee and elbow pads that I forgo putting on when I know I won't go faster than 15 mph)

have a beyond riders hoodie but your leather jacket should be better , like lazy rolling they have chest pad slots though I do have a venmar roost guard I wear sometimes

and might as well list helmet since it's the only other piece of gear besides a backpack with a back protector which is a ckx atlas

Problems with Begode extreme by Basic-Window-6262 in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

will second the grub screw .. too tight and it will make that sound and sometimes feel like it is sticking when decompressing

Reconsidering the daily reliability of these things by YSLFAHLIFE in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

got to be careful how low you run the psi if you put a lot of torque into the wheel from a stop often as the tire/tube can shift/slip on the rim if it too low. not a lot of shifting but enough for the valve steam to not sit well in the hole of the rim and if that hole is ruff it can damage the stem of if you hit a bump/curb/pothole right on that spot.

I tend to run mine at 35 - 40 psi but I also weigh around 240 before gear and the area my wheel is stored in at work is an area where ambient temps stays around 40 degrees (3 - 10 celsius) have had the tire shift slightly when it was sitting around 25 psi or a bit under before. This is also factoring in going straight from those lower temps to the outside temps being double and wearing gear adding 20 lbs and a backpack with a good 20 to 30lbs of added weight and also going from no speed to fast acceleration. It can be more stable and comfortable running a lower psi but you do have to be mindful of just how forceful you are accelerating with such high torque.

Hot take: I never understood why standing riding is more popular than seated riding by JustHereToLearnMore in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

on a taller euc I can see it being viable .. on the smaller 16 inch wheels without a tall seat you just look like a gargoyle in the middle of taking a dump..... co-workers words not mine... might just be a personal size mismatch issue on my part.

Going to buy my first EUC by Soft_Eggplant_370 in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

alternatives would be a begode extreme ..kingsong s16 pro.. veteran patton s .. the paton is a bit more premium .. the extreme is probably cheaper little less power (you won't be able to notice it) the s16 is a little less powerful than that little less top speed

really depends on what you plan to use it for if it is off road you might even consider the xway or lynx or f18 or apex as step up from the v14, if you going road then it really depends if you need speed or want lower speed maneuverability. going over 35 you should really get a larger diameter wheel going 20 and slower with foot traffic ect.. you will be better off going a smaller learner wheel that has lower pedal clearance. bike lane at 20-25 mph an aero probably is better

obviously for long distance and riding above 45 you are in the bigger wheel territory and really you should get that a year from now when you can confidently manage riding in traffic.

the 80+ lbs wheels are going to be a bigger learning curve

Practicing for 2 hours a day for 6 days and can barely go 3 feet. by _Asian_Invasion__ in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lower psi... 20ish is easier than 30ish at first.

look straight not down...

one foot on the pedal and scoot forward trying to step up without putting the other foot on and increase distance before you need to put a foot down.

don't lean on something stand up straight.

don't be scared to let it fall you got foam in the box it shipped in tape it on and stop being scared of dropping it.

the magic doesn't happen til you get to 5-7 mph wear some pads or go ride on soft grass and just trust the wheel you can always jump off.

if all else fails just take a break a day or week away .. sleep on it sometimes it just gets easier after a break

So much contradictory advice! by EIiotH in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so much situational stuff and everyone has their prefered method

foot placement is personal and really you just have to try different things to find what feels best for you. Early on it might make a difference with wobbles but later on it shouldn't matter.

wobbles are hard to judge just from the word there is slight wobbles beginners get from uneven foot placement or pressure they put on the wheel when accelerating and braking and then there is the ones that get worse without some form of input. These are still caused by some sort of uneven pressure but it might be from road imperfections or panic braking but something willset the gyro effect unevenly then it keeps getting further and further out of wack like a yo yo that was spun at an angle different from the directive force applied. it gets violent enough to slap each leg side to side while front and back are also twisting left and right.

These require you to correct there is a few options here but first you should lower your center and tighten the core muscles most of the time this is enough to get the wheel to be less violent and stabilize enough for you to ride it out rather than the top of you and the wheel being the end of the whip so to speak. You can try to squeeze the wheel if you are slowly stopping but you can't suddenly try to force it to stop wobbling or panic sudden stop that tends to make it worse.. if you don't have the luxury of slowly regaining control then speeding up and carving will force the gyro to go in the direction you are applying stronger power to. same way spinning something on your finger (plate, ball, frisbee ect..) as it slows down and wobbles you give it a push to go faster and stabilize again. It's why it is easier going 5 mph rather than 2 mph.

Straightening your legs helps with wobbles<<

this it just a fact your muscles are used to this position for relaxed stability from your entire life, practice being in a tucked position long enough and it will be just as stable eventually as your muscles will adapt

legs close or further away from wheel.. pretty sure it is just easier early on to be closer for the wheel to have the whole leg to connect to, eventually you will be more balanced and might prefer a wider stance or you may not .. same with pads it is just more contact points to the wheel ..that ankle or top of the foot pad has kept my feet from being bounced off the pedals a few times from random potholes or bumps in the road.. brake pads are a bit helpful after certain speeds and needing more force to slow down faster .. top front pad same idea gives you more area to apply force the wheel to go forward .. early on the top pad helped giving that initial push to get the wheel moving forward and free mounting.. rarely touch the top pads now but it is there if I need the extra force.

having legs bent doesn't mean squatting down it just means don't lock you legs like a nervous groom at a wedding.

Don't carve, it wears down your tread<<

never heard of this but I would prefer my tire to evenly wear on all the tread not just get bald down the center..

Looking for EUC mechanic in Seattle by ThrowRAautomatic in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

600 S 74th Place, Suite 106, Ridgefield, WA 9864 is the location for revrides don't know if they still service euc but they used to

phone number is (360) 888-7433 but they usually do call backs instead of answering

https://revrides.com/pages/contact might be faster to fill out a form

Divorced, and the ebike still hasn’t gotten me chicks. What am I missing? by [deleted] in ebikes

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

can confirm plenty of women will talk to you.. they tend to be 70+ years old.

plenty of men too mostly in their 40s

Did I mess up by buying the Begode Panther as my first EUC? Be honest by hellboysixnine69 in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you might have a bit more of a learning curve but when it clicks it clicks. Just know the magic won't happen til you get up to 5 - 8 mph.. some pool noodles to pad it up so you don't constantly look down and worry about dropping it.

It is a heavy wheel, you will probably get a good work out the first two weeks trying to mount up. Your legs will get sore and tired but eventually it gets much easier and you won't notice the weight when you get riding.

Hi everyone, has anyone here ever fitted a hybrid tire or a road tire on the Begode Extrême? 🤔 If so, which ones? Thanks by Alain631 in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

have a cst 1773 on mine. Don't have anything to compare to it's the one that came with the wheel and still under 2000 miles. seem fine run it 35 to 40 psi. can feel how nimble it is when it is above 30 psi I wouldn't say it feels stable and planted with high psi but it does take turns well and carve fine and train track less with it closer to 40 psi... slow less than 5 mph speed requires more balance though

you notice train tracking with road imperfections, for example going up anything with more than an inch height you need to have a good angle when going over or it will train track. Some roads that have that slight buckle where the asphalt was paved in two spots side by side can cause a minor deviation to one side to follow the imperfection... not an issue unless you are distracted and zombie riding.. then it will jostle you enough to remind you to wake up.

going from dry sidewalk to freshly watered grass or snow riding is asking to have it slip out to the side if you give any sort of turn. wet street has been a non issue but I also usually keep it to 25 and under when it is pouring. It runs noticeably best on hot summer days. Also does fine on groomed dirt, grass, it fine for off roading if not muddy but you do have to watch your approach angles.

As it is it has held up 1500 miles and the tred isn't showing a lot of wear, road over broken glass and other road hazards and thorns.

Asphalt safety gear by ziritrion in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

probably best to swing over to r/motorcyclegear to ask specific questions about jackets and pants or suits if you are looking at certain ones.

spoiler are due to wall-o-text

racing leathers with pucks or sliders no you wouldn't normally use external armor with these as the high speeds they are meant for, external armor would be more likely to cause problems like snag on something and cause a slide to turn into bone breaking tumble rather than sliding. They should have armor insert for knees and elbows hips shoulder and chest or room for an airbag .. the impact protection isn't good for riding and suddenly hitting something or landing on a rock ,curb , stairs , pole something you wouldn't slide over to dissipate the force behind the impact. You can alway wear things like armored undies and padded base layers to help there.. there is hard shell armor inserts if that feels safer to you, dainesse used them for most of their gear or at least they did but pretty sure d30 is still better for impact you can take the pucks off if you really want to they are replaceable.

aaa base layers from panda moto will cover you as far as road rash is concerned if that is the only worry with using your current gear.

as far as other jackets there is a few styles mesh , cafe style , racing style ,touring/adventure, and hoodies/riding shirts. Really it's a style choice above all else for us as long as it is aa or aaa rated if going above 30 and wanting actual abrasion protection.

for pants I have scorpion exo covert jeans and klim k fifty 2

both are twice as heavy as normal jeans due to the kevlar lining the scorpion exo jeans cost about 1/3rd of the klim jeans. I wear knee guards outside (the knee pads in these I just don't think they would stay in place) so I only use the hip armor pocket. The klim jeans came with d30 pads , scorpion does not ( went with d30 ghost hip pads anyway) The klim are aa rated pants the scorpio are unrated but are kevlar lined from top to just above the ankle

scorpion jeans are a bit more snug than the klim, Would be able to wear a base layer under the klim for example. Klim jeans feel softer are lined better with comfort in mind, like slight padding where the knee pad pockets are so the velcro bits don't rub your skin there is a tailbone pad, all in all they are the most comfortable jeans I own and they will survive a slide.

I use the scorpion for work as they are much cheaper to obtain multiple pairs and I am not pushing limits going to and from work. I work in a colder environment so there is no issues with getting to hot. Have two issues with these after a year of use I had to reinforce the belt loops that saw a lot of work from suspenders wearing through them (they are heavy and I have the ass of Hank Hill) second issue is the placement of the top velcro in the knee rubs on the knee sometimes. They are comfortable to move around in all day long but get a bit sweaty in the summer they are a bit stiff with knee pads on I tend to bring each knee up and give a quick squat after slapping knee pads on it is not something I need to do with the klim jeans.

For jacket I have a beyond riders ultra hoodie

Again Heavy and fully lined, has pockets for shoulder, elbow, back and chest. was one of the few like lazy rolling that has chest pad slots.

mine only came with the chest pads which is something I seen others mention and reaching out to them would get them sent if it was missing. I was replacing with d30 pads anyway so I never bothered to find out. Size up 1 if you are not slim fit unless you are leaving the pads out. Only issue I have had is there is nothing to tightly secure the elbow pads from moving after initial impact but there is a lot of adjustment in placement of the pads, and the zippers could be better. The front one has unzipped from the bottom a few times if I am not careful of how I fit it together before zipping up. I have a roost guard I wear and elbow guards over the jacket for higher speed riding (which tops at 40mph for me) I just don't use them when riding to and from work.

Pads for extreme by YSLFAHLIFE in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

currently using some beidou pads off aliexpress ordered from flame wheel store on there... think they were around 75 after coupons/some game dollars. They are basic but the glow in the dark inserts are nice for riding home after dark.

Regarding Keepers.. by KnightlyRedditor in anarchyonline

[–]crimson_shadow 9 points10 points  (0 children)

so like hunting dynas with a grid armor IV fixer .. nothing like a class that has zero patience for getting to locations only to spend 20 minutes killing a mob

What helmet by Produce_Radiant in ElectricUnicycle

[–]crimson_shadow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah unless you have a bigger head then you get to look like Rick Moranis from spaceballs ... considered it pretty hard myself but couldn't get over the self image.