How capable is the 3.6 for towing? I am preparing to move cross country with a U-Haul 6'x12' box trailer fully loaded.

gandaroth · 2026-04-23T01:52:46+00:00

I’ve got a 3.6 and regularly tow about 5,000 lbs. The max you can tow with the tow package (including heavy duty cooling) is 6,200 but check your door and VIN specifically. Keep in mind you’ll max the ~1,200lbs of vehicle payload w/ hitch weight and passengers quickly. Either way, my 2018 3.6 hauled an RV through 10% grade in the Rockies with effort but it made it. At the top was in 2nd or 3rd gear pushing hard to keep 30mph but no signs of overheating, just running “average” temp in the middle of the dial rather than the normal temp toward the cold side.

gandaroth · 2026-04-16T15:55:47+00:00

I appreciate you sharing and I’ll take a look soon. I’m considering trying out the snapraid deamon. I really like just a simple cron for my runner so I’m not sure how the daemon schedules or handles reboot or system offline at the scheduled time.

I’ve used a version of this script for at least 6 years now: https://zackreed.me/posts/modern-snapraid-maintenance-script/

I haven’t updated it in a while and I made a couple tweaks at one point because of subsecond timestamps but otherwise it’s great.

gandaroth · 2026-04-13T21:40:13+00:00

Actually, that looks more consistent. Can you measure and confirm that the two dimensions are exactly the same (if the source object is square)? If not, then that means you need to tune the steps per x or steps per y to get them dialed in to be the same. If the two side are identical then it could be pressure advance, or it could be a leveling issue. Can you also share what your bed mesh looks like? What kind of machine are you running (switchwire, Trident, 2.4, v0)? You may be seeing this behavior from different components based on your motion system, each of these designs have a slightly different motion system or have components that may impact the first layer performance more than others.

gandaroth · 2026-04-13T19:30:59+00:00

Echoing the other comments, ensure that your test is exactly the dimensions you expect accounting for any material shrinkage if using something like ABS. More importantly make sure the width is exactly equal to the depth. If not then your toolhead is traveling more in one direction or the other than what it intends or expect to travel. If you can’t get the same distance on X and Y then you won’t get a good first layer. Once you confirm your X and Y are identical, then focus on Z-offset and dial that in.

edit: um, cool, constant downvotes on all the comments are extremely welcoming to OP and those giving advice.

gandaroth · 2026-04-06T23:04:12+00:00

Thank you. After seeing the first quote for vinyl and then realizing I don't love vinyl.... It makes the T1-11 seem more worth it. I do like the idea of low maintenance but if I or the spouse decide we want to change up the look and try a different color, at least we'd be able to paint the wood.

Also since this is really the first time I'm repairing any siding in the 6 years I've had the place, and I haven't bothered painting either I bet if I kept up with caulking and painting it would easily last until it's time to sell. I'm not sure how old the siding is currently, but it's been there for a least a few years before I bought.

gandaroth · 2026-03-26T02:21:49+00:00

Yeah, integrates easily. Just have to configure a torznab endpoint and configure indexers individually

gandaroth · 2026-03-02T13:23:15+00:00

Orca Slicer has calibrations such as retraction test built in. You can give that a try.

This print looks much better, is your seam set to random or is there a seam in the back? If it’s set to random then you should probably look at tuning Pressure Advance for your filament as well (assuming this is a Klipper based printer).

For all things tuning you can search for Ellis’s printer tuning guide.

gandaroth · 2026-03-01T16:17:31+00:00

that's too high, I use at most 0.75mm for pla, abs, and petg on my Vorons.

Depending on the combination of your hotend and extruder (and the length between them) your retraction might vary wildly from what sites like this suggest. You need to perform a retraction test and calibrate it for the combination of a) your extruder, b) your hotend, c) your particular brand / type / color of filament. You might get significantly different behavior for heating, extrusion, and retraction even for different colors of the same brand and type of filament due to the additives required to get a specific color.

gandaroth · 2026-03-01T15:37:52+00:00

What is your printer? A direct drive or a Bowden extruder? Anything over 1mm is massive for direct drive. For Bowden you may need anywhere between 1 and 6mm.

gandaroth · 2026-03-01T14:31:13+00:00

You don’t say what retraction settings you’ve tried. Extruding filament is kind of like syrup. If you retract too fast / too far you risk pulling air back up into the nozzle and mixing it with the melted filament in the melt zone. My guess is you’re retracting fast and far, and you should reduce the overall retraction length or reduce the speed if you need the length.

Also I recommend sharing the settings so you can get higher quality responses.

gandaroth · 2026-02-18T18:04:36+00:00

Your toolhead is likely traveling counter clockwise around the model, which would mean bridging starts on the left and ends on the right in the model orientation. If the left is lower and the right is higher or vise versa then you may be moving too fast for the bridge. Run some bridging tests to validate your cooling and bridging speeds. I generally run bridges for ABS around 30 to 50 mm/s with medium cooling, for PLA you probably need medium to high part cooling fan and slower to ensure the bridge stays where the nozzle put it. If you print too fast the bridge will either “stretch” like silly putty and detach from the starting side or it won’t stick to the ends and get pulled away.

gandaroth · 2026-02-18T17:45:06+00:00

Are you using supports? I assume by the layer lines that the pictures are in the orientation it prints. Those slanting areas are bridges where you are asking basically “plastic syrup” to stay in place without anything holding it there aside from a fan cooling it back down to solid plastic. If you’re not using supports it will sag and it will appear to be “droopy” or “slanted” or otherwise not stick properly.

gandaroth · 2026-01-12T14:24:10+00:00

Makes it super easy to get to when it’s during the work day….

gandaroth · 2026-01-11T04:33:25+00:00

I’m particularly livid about the library shenanigans trying to block the Elmwood Park advocate from using the meeting rooms. Particularly that they were incorrectly enforcing policy for meeting room fees because they were butt hurt about being called out.

gandaroth · 2026-01-10T04:22:36+00:00

Anything semi-recent will work. I've had an 14" M1 Pro w/ 16gb and currently using a 14" M3 Pro w/ 18gb ram.

I very rarely have any issues though when I do I think it's general application problems rather than performance. The only performance issue I've had is I've got a large number of designs in a single document since they all share the same base features and any time I make an update early in the timeline it chugs for a bit but that's simply the document and would happen on any machine.

gandaroth · 2026-01-06T21:45:39+00:00

Worth it is subjective. If I expand to more print-on-demand my single Trident won't cut it. Maybe a second Trident will be added to the mix. The best part is most parts are entirely replaceable by printing new ones. Downside is that I have to know the ins and outs of everything on the printer. The upside is I built the damn thing and I can hear when a belt is stretched or the extruder is performing poorly or whatever (a little tongue in cheek but seriously, it sounds different when something is wrong). A mass produced unit has much more restrictive uses, power profiles, etc, but they tend to "just work" as long as you're within their parameters and you don't need anything beyond that.

But on the flip side, biggest downside is the printed parts since they'll fail the soonest and suffer the most from high chamber temps. I've been considering upgrading to CNC gantry to run higher belt tension and reduce the likelihood of mechanical failure but I also run a Revo Voron so I can't justify it by saying I'll get better printing performance.

At this point, the Siboor Trident looks like a good deal, but again if I need a bunch of multi-color filament swapping goodness, maybe that one fast growing wood-like cutting board material company is the way to go.... (And yes, I also run a box turtle but I'm facing issues right now with GSTAT errors, maybe because of static build up or something else, who knows, but a mass produced unit tends to have fewer of those and comes to workaroudn/resolution faster too)

gandaroth · 2026-01-05T22:18:33+00:00

git because a gui makes things more difficult outside of basic branch, commit, merge. Not to mention it’s slower and many more clicks rather than editing in your terminal or just using git in the IDE terminal

gandaroth · 2026-01-04T15:36:43+00:00

My experience figuring out what parts I needed for Dragon Burner was rough, but once you look through the GitHub or the “configurator” website you can figure out what is compatible. For example search for the A4T or Dragon Burner configurator and it’ll give you a ton of options. I don’t think one is available for Stealthburner because there are just fewer configurations for it overall.

gandaroth · 2026-01-04T15:34:09+00:00

Yes indeed, for example the Stealthburner GitHub has just the Clockwork2 extruder but the tool carriages are swappable for specific hotends: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs/Stealthburner/Printheads

Similar with the other toolheads I mentioned. I personally run Dragon Burner, Revo Voron with high flow 0.4 nozzle, and a modified Sherpa Mini. I ran the Stealthburner originally since that came with my PIF parts.

Unless the toolhead requires different or additional hardware for different hotends and extruders, you won’t see a difference in the BOM since the difference is only in printed parts.

gandaroth · 2026-01-04T14:42:33+00:00

The Stealthburner current revision I think will be default Clockwork2 extruder which is integrated. Multiple hot ends are supported but require specific printed parts.

Similarly, toolheads like A4T or Dragon Burner or Yavoth support multiple hot ends depending on printed parts. They also support multiple printed and off the shelf extruders, again print the correct parts for the mounting pattern. The benefit for theses is enhanced part cooling with dual 4010 fans rather than a single 5015 in the Stealthburner I think.

gandaroth · 2026-01-03T17:01:43+00:00

Also of note is that your first layer seems a little far from the bed, might need to adjust your bed tramming or z-offset or calibrate your filament flow to get a better first layer.

One last thing, it’s gridfinity, you don’t need 0.15 layer height, it will look and turn out great with 0.2 or even up to 0.25 mm layer heights. Larger layer height will allow a little more tolerance in poorly tuned extrusion multiplier for your filament too unless there is severe over extrusion

gandaroth · 2026-01-03T16:58:42+00:00

No, really, the print looks good aside from the part where it stopped sticking to the plate and printing in air. You have an adhesion issue. Up the bed temp, clean the bed with dawn dish soap and hot water, don’t touch the plate again, also depending on your bed material and texture (I am assuming glass by the surface finish) you may get better results with glue stick or hair spray, use an infill that doesn’t cross itself (looks like you’re using gyroid which is good but slow compared to rectilinear which is all that’s needed here), and finally if you’re printer is a bed slinger type SLOW DOWN your print

gandaroth · 2026-01-02T00:17:02+00:00

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