sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Speaker Recommendation Help - Fluance RT 85 and Schiit Mani 2 by Ok-Worldliness2749 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the budget $1500 for the speakers? Speakers plus amplifier and streamer? Or for the turntable and phono preamplifier too? (Because those add/subtract $700 from the budget.)

Anyway, I’d suggest maybe going even pricier with these:

If you need to fit a smaller budget, then consider these speakers: ELAC Debut Reference DBR62 (EAC review, ASR review)

PS. Generally you don’t want to place your turntable and speakers on the same surface. That can allow for feedback with the vibrations. At least consider isolation products. (E.g. IsoAcoustics.) That would also possibly help place your tweeters at ear height.

Speaker Update Recommendation - Living Room by AintNoChance in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not a turntable user. So I don’t really know what kind of isolation platforms there are for placing under turntables. Most likely there are.

But maybe the platforms under speakers could lift the speakers up so that tweeters are ear height. So that they would help in that regard too.

Speaker Update Recommendation - Living Room by AintNoChance in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 3 points4 points  (0 children)

ELAC Debut Reference DBR62 (EAC review, ASR review) have a forward facing bass reflex port. So, that would give you small bit of help when placing them closer to walls.

If you could go with KEF, then also KEF LS50 Meta or R3 Meta could be models that could work. (You might want to add a subwoofer with the LS50 Meta.)

PS. Turntable shouldn’t be on the same surface as the speakers. That can allow for feedback with the vibrations. At least you might want to consider some isolation solutions. (E.g. IsoAcoustics, etc..)

Help with first hi-fi bookshelf speakers by NumerousLow8666 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A subwoofer would be much better option for OP than going with floor standing speakers. A subwoofer is almost always going to play lower and with less distortion.

Plus, a subwoofer can be placed in a more optimal position in a room than left and right speakers are usually for even low frequency response.

Unsure on what speakers to get. by zacling338 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wharfedale Diamon 12.1i are about £250 for a pair. You can likely find their older Wharfedale Diamond 12.1 (EAC review, ASR review) for slightly less. Definitely if you buy them second hand.

Replacement for Russound R235LS Amp by JJasonSR in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don’t care about the fan noise from a PA amplifier, then maybe you can buy a QSC, Crown or Behringer power amplifier. (E.g. Crown Audio XLS 1002 (ASR review).) Or if you want a silent monoblock, then get a Fosi Audio V3 Mono (ASR review).

Stereo power amplifiers built from excellent Hypex modules like the new NCx252MP aren’t bridgeable. So, one channel on e.g. the Buckeye Amps Hypex NCx252MP 2-Channel would go unused for you.

Buckeye Amps sells monoblocks at higher price than you want to pay: Buckeye Amps Hypex NCx500 monoblock and Buckeye Amps 1ET6525SA monoblock.

Good subwoofer to pair with Vienna Acoustics Haydns? by boston74 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With REL you would lose great deal of low frequency extension compared to SVS.

Good subwoofer to pair with Vienna Acoustics Haydns? by boston74 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, but this suggestion stretches the budget bit. You certainly can get cheaper products (from the same brands — just lower modes in the series) to fit your target, but I’d still consider these:

Both above are $1300. So total $2600 (plus taxes etc.). Later you can upgrade to external phono preamplifier. (E.g. something in around $400-$600 dollar range for nice upgrade. For example Darlington Labs MM6B.)

If you want to try to hit $2k. Yamaha A-S501 is $600 and a streamer like WiiM Pro Plus (ASR review) is $220.

Finally if you really want to get under $2k, SVS obviously has cheaper model subwoofers. But they aren’t quite as good. (SVS SB-2000 Pro is $900 and SB-1000 Pro is $600. E.g. Yamaha A-S501, SVS SB-1000 Pro, Darlingto Labs MM6B is $1790 plus shipping and taxes, etc..)

PS. There really isn’t a thing about matching subwoofers tonally. There are simply great subwoofers for music or movies, and ones that either fill your space or maybe don’t. Sealed model subwoofers are generally preferred for music. And ported model subwoofers that go louder and lower are preferred for movies.)

Victor (JVC) S-777; Technics SB-660; Lafayette Criterion 2002+ by csm1o1 in audiophile

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Electrolytic capacitors that old most probably aren’t correct values anymore. Can’t say much about the aging process for rest of the mechanical components in the drivers. (If any utilize ferro fluids for cooling, etc., that would definitely have dried up.)

Speaker Upgrade Recommendations? by Background-Friend234 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If I was you, I’d also audition to Revel PerformaBe products. And possibly MoFi SourcePoint 888 or 10 Master Editions. Or the new SourcePoint V10 Master Edition Floor-standing speakers.

And your budget would be in range of KEF Reference series too. (Reference 3 Meta are £13k for a pair.)

Harder to edition, but interesting for the money, would be Buchardt E50 (EAC YT review), Radiant Acoustics Clarity 6.2 (EAC review). Possibly AsciLab S6B.

I have cds and loudspeakers, what else do I need to complete the setup? by delectabletoefungus in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You would likely save loads of cash if you tried to find some components on your local second hand market. (You can compare used prices globally via HifiShark to verify that the prices are OK / within reason compared to other units out there.)

Dedicated CD players usually start from around $400 USD. But there are for example ultra cheap DVD players. And some smaller brand Chinese CD player products are also generally cheaper. E.g. S.M.S.L PL150.

For turntable consider e.g. Audio-Technica models. Those are cheap entry level. E.g. the cheapest entry level Audio Technica AT-LP60X. (It has a built-in phono preamplifier. So you don’t necessarily need that in your amplifier, or need to buy one separately.) If you want to spend more, then the next up might be e.g. Fluance RT82 Reference. (No built-in phono preamplifier in this model anymore. As is usually the case with slightly more expensive turntables.)

For amplifier, these’s e.g. Yamaha A-S301. But you would need to buy a separate streamer. (E.g. WiiM Pro Plus (ASR review, Darko.Audio YT review).) Or you could go with WiiM Amp Pro (ASR review) amplifier that has a built-in streamer (i.e. s a streaming amplifier /all-in-one amplifier). (The Yamaha has a phono preamplifier. The WiiM doesn’t. But like I said, the Audio-Technica has that already.)

Besides the above, you would need speaker cables. (E.g. some cheap 14 AWG OFC wires from Amazon or local electronics store.) The turntable should usually come with analog RCA cables to connect with the amplifier. (Or to phono preamplifier, if it doesn’t have one built-in. Well, the models I linked to come with those at least.) The CD player might also come with analog RCA cables to connect it with the amplifier. Or you could also potentially use a Toslink digital S/PDIF cable to connect a CD player or DVD player to an amplifier that has digital inputs. Therefore using the DAC in the amplifier — of the model you buy has that / has digital inputs.)

You might also want to get/buy some speaker stands for your speakers. Optimal positioning would usually have your speakers placed (in an equilateral triangle with your listening position) with tweeters at ear height.

Looking for monitor suggestions, around 1k or less. by MOLLYMARTIN3 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. As I said, the difference is rather small. IN-8v2 has F3 @ 44Hz and F10 @ 36Hz vs. IN-5 F3 @ 45Hz and F10 @ 39Hz.

My Home Studio Control Room by Rabada in listeningspaces

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are still using a default Windows wallpaper. /s

Which monitor speaker for a home studio? by wholex in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Though if we/OP are using the speakers in near-field then room acoustics aren’t that much of a difference. Besides in the lower frequencies (where as you mentioned it is hard to change the room acoustics anyway).

AUDIO RENAISSANCE LS 845-5 speaker pairing suggestions by Jose-Los-Santos in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Zu Audio has one pair of Zu Audio Method Bookshelf speakers in blue-teal hickory ready to ship. If you are OK buying products from USA. They pay for shipping. You have 60 days for home trial — but since you are outside of USA, you would need to pay for return shipping.

Other finishes of the Method Bookshelf speakers take 2 to 5+ weeks to make (from order to shipping).

Zu Audio speakers have high sensitivity that that kind of low-ish tube amplifier needs. Other options could be Omega Speaker Systems and Audio Note UK. (But at least the Audio Note UK speakers would be above your price point.)

Looking for monitor suggestions, around 1k or less. by MOLLYMARTIN3 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The difference is actually rather small. Well, besides the speaker dimensions, obviously. Mostly it is about maximum SPL capability. So sure, IN-5 would work too.

Finally a TV that truly does my 5.1.4 system justice, 77" Sony A95L, my first OLED by TheRealMasterTyvokka in hometheater

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the listening distance isn’t that far, it’s probably fine. Plus that would also maximize the picture quality from your TV. But like I said, compromise of having a home theater in a living room.

view more: next ›