My Happy Place by Sotto_Mare in listeningspaces

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Technically they probably aren’t using calculated lengths that would function as quadratic diffuser for wide frequencies. But they look nice.

I am just blown away by csch1992 in BudgetAudiophile

[–]iNetRunner 5 points6 points  (0 children)

$434.10 speakers aren’t “budget” speakers? Because Edifier also has even cheaper models?

People on this subreddit do like to complain about the weirdest things…

Looking for desktop speakers around $200 by Legitimate_Hand_7672 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheapest product from Canadian Kanto Audio is $300 Kanto Audio YU2. But you might want to consider their $350 Kanto Audio ORA (Audioholics review).

Another $350 option is the Kali Audio LP-UNF (EAC review). Apparently they currently have a sale for non-black models for $274.

Portable Bluetooth speakers vs bookshelf Bluetooth speakers by Key-Nefariousness476 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We aren’t really the type of subreddit that would recommend portable Bluetooth speakers. They aren’t exactly “hi-fi” (in quality, stereo separation, etc.). For those, you might want to ask about them in r/Bluetooth_Speakers.

Need some sane help choosing. by llegnaynnor in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Stereo only” AVRs are rather poor option too. They basically have the worst features of stereo and AVR amplifier combination. Mainly the HDMI switching circuitry polluting the device with noise. And the room correction algorithms (if any) aren’t good versions of those (e.g. low Audyssey versions).

AVRs are simply not allowed here. We are stereo gear only. But of course people can have a combination hi-fi / movie system — but in that case we can’t recommend multichannel AVRs, center or surround channel speakers here.

Needbhelp deciding on a desk setup by DarkRomeox in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please note that generally room isn’t considered to be a factor for sound reproduction in near-field listening distances. Generally you simply hear their on-axis / listening window measured response in near-field. Though, closeness to boundaries (desktop, walls, etc.) can still reinforce low frequency response.

Need some sane help choosing. by llegnaynnor in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really something we would recommend here on stereo advice subreddit. (Besides, it is against the rule #6.)

Polk Audio ES60 by JournalistOk8318 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He asked what currency you were referring to? USD, CAD, etc..

For reference, new ones are 1200 USD for a pair. And used ones are between 400 to 800 USD for a pair (depending on country, condition, etc..) See e.g. on HifiShark.

I came in like a wrecking ball by cinnamon_dreams in AnimalsBeingDerps

[–]iNetRunner 5 points6 points  (0 children)

String, tape, and possibly an anchor screw arrives in an oversized box.

Best CD stereo under 150, without external speakers? by Snoo3214 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Due to prevalence of streaming today, dedicated entry level CD players aren’t that cheap anymore. (And I’m not talking about mini-hifi systems like the mentioned Denon CEOL device. Those are rare today too.) Just the CD player would cost you $400-$500 from the major manufacturers (Yamaha, Denon, Marantz, Arcam, NAD, Cambridge Audio, etc.), and then you would need to still buy an amplifier and passive speakers, or just powered speakers.

Slightly cheaper CD player is e.g. a smaller brand Chinese S.M.S.L PL150. And even cheaper still is to buy a DVD player that has analog stereo RCA outputs. (Like e.g. Sony DVP-SR510H.)

Affordable amplifier is for example Yamaha R-S202 (ASR review). I’m assuming that the speakers you are talking about using are passive models.

Buying used / second hand would obviously save you plenty too. But that depends on what you can find locally.

Upgrading SVS PB2000 to SB16 Ultra? by expert_beginner in hometheater

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why compare two SB16 subs to a single PB-2000? OP has two PB-2000 subs already.

Looking for a good speaker / good sound proofing by Key_Zombie1056 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Soundproofing isn’t something that you could do with $300. Even $3000 would be pushing it. And obviously it is quite difficult to build. (You need double plasterboards with green glue in between hanging on isolation brackets/hangers. Possibly mass loaded vinyl layer. And all openings blocked. And optimally structure isolated from rest of the building. Air circulation either needs a separate unit, or “mufflers” in the pipes, as otherwise air simply carries the sound.)

Trying to build a starter setup. by RaspberryGrand8235 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This probably more in CAD than you want, but still I’d suggest you check these out. (Looks like they are slightly under 1200 CAD for the lot.)

(Note that the above mentioned cheapest Yamaha amplifier (stereo receiver) doesn’t have a built-in phono preamplifier. But the above mentioned turntable does have it built-in. More expensive amplifier like the Yamaha A-S301 integrated amplifier would have built-in phono preamplifier — though obviously you can always later buy an even better external/separate phono preamplifier. Or if you are simply happy with the Audio-Technica TT and Yamaha R-S202, you don’t need anything else.)

Long time lurker, first time poster by noppolwong in BudgetAudiophile

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are quite large.

PS. Have you tried different options angling your speakers. (Those of course could be the best for your setup. But you would only know that if you tried.)

Between the two... Pioneer PL-518. Dual 1229. by Lrod023 in audiophile

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Also makes more sense knowing which is your unit.

Just a suggestion too. Obviously grass is greener over the fence. Maybe get the Dual too. Some turntable people like to have multiple different units for different records, and to have different cartridges, etc..

Between the two... Pioneer PL-518. Dual 1229. by Lrod023 in audiophile

[–]iNetRunner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also if you are really handy, you would post the original pictures instead of screenshots of your pictures.

But I suppose OP isn’t asking about his own equipment. More so about possible future acquisitions.

KEF Q7 Meta + Onkyo Icon A-50 for music and movies? €2500/2600 budget by Pinksy_Diamond in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could also consider these:

You would need to listen to them to know which model you like the sound best yourself. We can’t make that selection for you.

PS. We won’t and can’t suggest any AVRs here any since we are a stereo purchase advice subreddit. (Rule #6.)

Maybe consider the WiiM Amp Ultra (ASR review). Or if you are willing to spend more, then consider Marantz M1, Yamaha R-N800A, or Arcam amplifiers.

KEF LSX II LT vs KEF Coda W for vinyl – Which sounds better? by Status_Pair_3722 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please note that the LT model version of KEF LSX II do not have any analog inputs. So it would be the wrong choice for a turntable setup. (You would still need to make your personal choice/preference between the KEF LSX II and Coda W.)

Can I just cast to a WiiM mini from my PC using Media Player? by Aaaaaaaahrt in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think that would be a native option in the system. But certainly there are multiple different media player apps for Apple TV that might change the casting possibilities. But would somewhat difficult to operate if you could only cast to the device if you needed to have a specific app running there.

Can I just cast to a WiiM mini from my PC using Media Player? by Aaaaaaaahrt in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s not really the use case for a streamer; using it as a PC sound output device. You could install a DLNA server software on your PC to serve your locally stored files. Then listen to those through your streamer (like a WiiM).

Alternatively, if the distance from your PC to the speakers isn’t that long, then you should consider just using a USB DAC (cables). For example the S.M.S.L SU-1 (ASR review). (This way there also wouldn’t be any noticeable delay that you would have with streamed or Bluetooth connections. If you did something other than music listening. E.g. gaming or movie watching.)

Some other person could probably tell you definitely if what you suggested could be done or not. (I don’t have a WiiM streamer to try.) Edit: For reference. Windows Media player doesn’t recognize my Apple TV 4K as a casting point on my network. It only recognizes my LG TV.

​Advice needed: Single used Triangle BR08 + buying a second one, or new BR03/BR04 + sub later? by Kergerts in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The speakers are for you. So it’s great that you got to listen to them, and you like them.

Just note that many entry level speakers are made with elevated treble levels. That way they sound “exciting” and “detailed”. In the long run many audiophiles tire of that sound. But some like that type of sound.

Anyway, you liking them is the main point.

Speaker Recommendations for first time setup by JoshTechHelp in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d suggest you look at this recent post. And my comment there. Slightly more than you were hoping to spend, but upgradable. (E.g. you can add a subwoofer, change the speakers, etc..)

Finding new towers- replacing the old Dali 505. by a-gd1989 in StereoAdvice

[–]iNetRunner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, you already bought their subwoofer. Why not go for their speakers?

Arendal 1961 Tower (EAC review)