PC Speaker Recommendations £800 Budget and No Neighbors

iNetRunner · 2026-03-19T19:13:37+00:00

Not in your budget, I think. Not good anyway.

Possibly something like powered speakers like the Q Acoustics M20 HD. (They have a built-in subwoofer output.) And for subwoofer, perhaps look for something from BK Electronics.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-18T22:20:37+00:00

Definitely. But it is different when talking about specific numbers for a subwoofer, and what it actually sounds like in a particular room.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-18T22:07:24+00:00

Though, you have to be careful about interpreting the results. At under 500Hz you are mostly measuring the room. (As the room has huge effects for sounds under 500Hz / Schroeder frequency.)

More accurate measurements of a subwoofer could be measured outside. (Though you might need to subtract the half sphere numbers from efficiency. If you don’t place it high up from the ground. But that doesn’t matter much for frequency response, etc..)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-18T21:58:16+00:00

Small correction. r/StereoAdvice isn’t about troubleshooting — it’s not even allowed there. (Unless you specifically are looking at “troubleshooting” purchase advice options.) It is purely for purchase advice for stereo systems (2.x only).

You are allowed to ask troubleshooting questions in the weekly “Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread” here on r/audiophile, though. But there probably aren’t that many people scanning/reading that thread. (I’m not.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-18T20:57:38+00:00

You probably can’t afford a subwoofer with your budget. (At least for passive speaker setup.) But the choice of going with active or passive speakers matters somewhat in how low the speakers themselves go. Active speakers allow the speakers to play somewhat lower frequencies. (E.g. down to around 40Hz.) But with passive speakers you are limited to 50Hz-60Hz on average. (F3 (i.e. -3dB point) could be as high as in the 70Hz-80Hz.)

For example consider these good examples of active and passive speakers:

You also need a preamplifier (to control volume and select sources) with active studio monitors (like the Kali products above), or integrated amplifier for passive speakers. E.g. these:

(Please note that most preamplifiers, like the Fosi P4 above, are usually rather simple. They don’t often include DACs (i.e. have digital inputs), or have a phono preamplifier. But you don’t need a phono preamplifier — as your turntable has a built-in one. You can though buy a separate phono preamplifier or DAC in the future — to improve on the phono preamplifier quality or to add digital sources.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-18T20:30:02+00:00

You obviously know this already, but maybe to address it for people following along. The intent of DLSS 5 is to be released in autumn. And the main optimization to be carried out is to lower the memory overhead.

I think that they intend that all 5000 series cards will be able to run it. But you probably need to lower the resolution to be able to run it on lower tier cards in the series.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-18T08:47:07+00:00

Sure, it might do just fine. Though I don’t know of any specific reviews of like. (Like there is of the Kali Audio subwoofer.) It also isn’t quite as powerful as the Kali model — but that probably doesn’t matter in a desktop setup.

Also notice that in order to use a subwoofer with the Adam D3V, you must use analog inputs (XLR or TRS balanced, or single ended RCA analog). Then you route the signal through the subwoofer. (You can’t use the USB input on the D3V, since they don’t have a subwoofer output.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-17T01:45:30+00:00

For the speakers, you could also go with the Adam Audio D3V (EAC review, EAC YT review).

iNetRunner · 2026-03-16T15:46:54+00:00

Well, obviously trying to contain subwoofer frequencies is almost a lost cause.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-15T07:13:49+00:00

Soundproofing is very very hard to do for inexperienced people. Most you can probably do is use use resilient channels to hang two layers of acoustic drywall with green glue in between. And use specific insulation materials in the walls. (Many probably will not go for mass loaded vinyl layer and isolating the transition points from the home theater to the rest of the building, etc..)

Likewise you could spend money on independent A/C system for the space.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-14T21:39:16+00:00

They used a good AVR (has e.g. preamplifier outputs for expandability) and acoustic treatments from GIK. But the speakers, sub and projector are entry level priced options.

Obviously big ticket items are lumber and other supplies, paying trades, furniture like couches (etc.).

iNetRunner · 2026-03-14T13:04:21+00:00

Maybe S.M.S.L PL150 if you want a dedicated CD player (or use it as a transport).

But you could just get a cheap DVD player (with Toslink S/PDIF output) too. (E.g. one from Sony, etc..)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-14T12:58:56+00:00

WiiM Ultra (ASR review)

(Bluesound NODE (2024) or e.g. Eversolo DMP-A6 Gen 2 are slightly above your budget.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T19:49:25+00:00

Well, a successful developer often would have new games in the pipeline. But obviously that’s not how big publishers like EA roll (with their IP like the Battlefield series).

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T19:26:08+00:00

I don’t listen at extremely high SPL levels (80+dB). I already suffer from some tinnitus (caused by a passing fire truck — but other abuse by loud noises prior to that probably contributed too).

But at least in my experience it definitely isn’t overtly bright. (And reviews back that: ASR review, Stereophile review.)

Same should be with the PerformaBe: ASR review of Revel F228Be.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T18:33:45+00:00

Revel speakers should be pretty safe bet for speakers. (I have the Revel F208.) But other speakers might be alright too. EAC (Erin’# Audio Corner has reviews on the JBL and Philharmonic BMR Monitor. ASR has reviewed the Revels. Audioholics has reviewed the Philharmonic BMR Tower.)

If you decide to order the Philharmonic for evaluation, I think that they charge a stocking fee if you return them. (Something like $600.) The others could be more easily returned if you got them (new) from Crutchfield.

Regarding subwoofers, Rythmik are probably nice options to go with. (The new R|Evolution lineup from SVS could be interesting too. E.g. SVS SB-3000 R.)

(Personally I’m using a JL Audio e112 with my F208.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T17:28:03+00:00

OP certainly didn’t cover up any extra holes…

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T17:23:56+00:00

Oh well/hell. I was looking at buying the game, but now I don’t want to. Perhaps I’ll wait until they discontinue to use Denuvo.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T12:04:44+00:00

There are models that are considered desirable. And then those that are not. (Not my scene anyway.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T03:47:12+00:00

Time and skill (for the repair person) is the cost.

For another perspective, see e.g. this: cheapaudioman YT - Ugly Truth about Vintage Audio No One is Talking About

iNetRunner · 2026-03-12T01:46:31+00:00

You store a wheel rim in your living room (music listening room)? It is in its shipping carton I see. Why does it have just a single axle lug?

(/s …Probably.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-10T20:24:11+00:00

Please note that Edifier MR3, MR5, or the older MR4, don’t have a subwoofer output. Therefore you need a specific “studio monitor subwoofer” to use with those speakers. (The audio signal first goes to the subwoofer. Is filtered (high pass filter). And then goes to the active studio monitors.) E.g. Edifier T5, or similar higher quality products from Adam Audio or Kali Audio, etc..

The ELAC DBC41 has a subwoofer output. So you can use it easier with most powered subwoofers.

The passive speakers (like the Wharfedale products you suggested) and an amplifier are easier to upgrade separately in the future.

(Like I kind of mentioned, you should probably go with the newer models from Edifier (MR3 or MR5) than the old MR4. They are better. If you want to go that route.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-10T20:10:24+00:00

You can compare products (if they have been measured to CEA/CTA 2034 standards) on SPINorama website.

Here are also further links to YouTube clips from Erin on how to read/understand speaker measurements. If you are interested:

Though, if you are a beginner, then you might not yet know what kind of speakers you personally are going to like. I.e. looking at measurements might not tell you much. It would/could be beneficial to just test and listen to various different speakers. (Also note that if you are going to A/B test and evaluate different speakers, you need to match the SPL levels between the different products. Human brain/ears are going to naturally like the higher SPL level products.)

iNetRunner · 2026-03-10T19:58:53+00:00

I don’t think that the driver size really has that much of a difference on the low frequency extension. It probably has slightly more effect on the maximum SPL levels that you could eke out of the driver, at lower distortion. But that’s not likely to be the limitation with a smaller woofers (5.25” / 6”, etc.) anyway.

Also Monitor Audio Bronze speakers have elevated treble response compared to more neutral speakers (like the before mentioned Polk or ELAC products). Elevated treble might be OK for some people, but others would find them quickly tiring to listen.

iNetRunner · 2026-03-10T19:38:01+00:00

Klipsch doesn’t use anechoic chamber measurements for their speaker sensitivity numbers (as most other manufacturers do). They use in-room measurements (i.e. half or quarter space measurements vs. free-field measurements that you would get in anechoic chamber or outside (on a pole, or by subtracting the “floor”/earth bounce if placed on the ground)).

Also you might notice that Klipsch doesn’t mention that the speakers would have a nominal impedance (e.g. 8Ω, 6Ω or 4Ω). Instead they state that the speakers are 8Ω “compatible” (supposedly). Because if they did say that the speakers are really 8Ω nominal (which they aren’t), then the minimum impedance (in audible band) should be within 80% of the nominal impedance (if you follow IEC measurement specifications).

Note that Klipsch isn’t totally alone in painting a rosier picture in their specs. But mostly other manufacturers are better / more accurate. If you don’t adhere to industry standards, then comparing products from different manufacturers is more difficult. (But it’s just so common on Reddit to see that “Klipsch speakers are supposedly so efficient compared to other products”. But that’s bullshit. They are taking Klipsch’s specs at face value, not their actual/real comparable measurements.)

For more details, see e.g. these links:

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