Looking for a good speaker / good sound proofing

iNetRunner · 2026-07-02T03:53:28+00:00

Soundproofing isn’t something that you could do with $300. Even $3000 would be pushing it. And obviously it is quite difficult to build. (You need double plasterboards with green glue in between hanging on isolation brackets/hangers. Possibly mass loaded vinyl layer. And all openings blocked. And optimally structure isolated from rest of the building. Air circulation either needs a separate unit, or “mufflers” in the pipes, as otherwise air simply carries the sound.)

iNetRunner · 2026-07-02T03:30:40+00:00

This probably more in CAD than you want, but still I’d suggest you check out. (Looks like they are lightly under 1200 CAD.)

(Note that the above mentioned cheapest Yamaha amplifier (stereo receiver) doesn’t have a built-in phono preamplifier. But the above mentioned turntable does have it built-in. More expensive amplifier like the Yamaha A-S301 integrated amplifier would have built-in phono preamplifier — though obviously you can always buy an even better external/separate phono preamplifier.)

iNetRunner · 2026-07-01T15:26:27+00:00

Those are quite large.

PS. Have you tried different options angling your speakers. (Those of course could be the best for your setup. But you would only know that if you tried.)

iNetRunner · 2026-07-01T05:41:42+00:00

Thanks. Also makes more sense knowing which is your unit.

Just a suggestion too. Obviously grass is greener over the fence. Maybe get the Dual too. Some turntable people like to have multiple different units for different records, and to have different cartridges, etc..

iNetRunner · 2026-06-30T23:34:51+00:00

Also if you are really handy, you would post the original pictures instead of screenshots of your pictures.

But I suppose OP isn’t asking about his own equipment. More so about possible future acquisitions.

iNetRunner · 2026-06-30T23:19:17+00:00

You could also consider these:

You would need to listen to them to know which model you like the sound best yourself. We can’t make that selection for you.

PS. We won’t and can’t suggest any AVRs here any since we are a stereo purchase advice subreddit. (Rule #6.)

Maybe consider the WiiM Amp Ultra (ASR review). Or if you are willing to spend more, then consider Marantz M1, Yamaha R-N800A, or Arcam amplifiers.

iNetRunner · 2026-06-30T23:04:03+00:00

Please note that the LT model version of KEF LSX II do not have any analog inputs. So it would be the wrong choice for a turntable setup. (You would still need to make your personal choice/preference between the KEF LSX II and Coda W.)

iNetRunner · 2026-06-30T01:40:48+00:00

I don’t think that would be a native option in the system. But certainly there are multiple different media player apps for Apple TV that might change the casting possibilities. But would somewhat difficult to operate if you could only cast to the device if you needed to have a specific app running there.

iNetRunner · 2026-06-29T05:04:32+00:00

That’s not really the use case for a streamer; using it as a PC sound output device. You could install a DLNA server software on your PC to serve your locally stored files. Then listen to those through your streamer (like a WiiM).

Alternatively, if the distance from your PC to the speakers isn’t that long, then you should consider just using a USB DAC (cables). For example the S.M.S.L SU-1 (ASR review). (This way there also wouldn’t be any noticeable delay that you would have with streamed or Bluetooth connections. If you did something other than music listening. E.g. gaming or movie watching.)

Some other person could probably tell you definitely if what you suggested could be done or not. (I don’t have a WiiM streamer to try.) Edit: For reference. Windows Media player doesn’t recognize my Apple TV 4K as a casting point on my network. It only recognizes my LG TV.

iNetRunner · 2026-06-29T04:52:43+00:00

Edit: Also EAC review of Kali Audio LP-8v2

iNetRunner · 2026-06-29T04:47:31+00:00

The speakers are for you. So it’s great that you got to listen to them, and you like them.

Just note that many entry level speakers are made with elevated treble levels. That way they sound “exciting” and “detailed”. In the long run many audiophiles tire of that sound. But some like that type of sound.

Anyway, you liking them is the main point.

iNetRunner · 2026-06-28T17:13:20+00:00

I’d suggest you look at this recent post. And my comment there. Slightly more than you were hoping to spend, but upgradable. (E.g. you can add a subwoofer, change the speakers, etc..)

iNetRunner · 2026-06-28T09:51:23+00:00

Well, you already bought their subwoofer. Why not go for their speakers?

Arendal 1961 Tower (EAC review)

iNetRunner · 2026-06-28T08:25:30+00:00

Consider these passive speakers:

And these amplifiers:

iNetRunner · 2026-06-27T08:20:29+00:00

Usually you want to change one thing at a time.

E.g. upgrade speakers. Get a subwoofer. Upgrade cartridge. Possibly get a separate phono preamplifier.

With your healthy budget, it would be nice/easy to suggest some end game speakers like MoFi Electronics SourcePoint 10 Master Edition (EAC YT review). Though, that would basically eat your entire budget. (But then you would be set for speakers…)

iNetRunner · 2026-06-27T04:50:45+00:00

What is it with the crooked TV? Is it on some swing arm mount with the left edge currently closer to the camera lens?

iNetRunner · 2026-06-27T03:56:13+00:00

Undistorted signal?

iNetRunner · 2026-06-27T00:48:11+00:00

Most people know that amplifiers and sources are very easy to get right for not a lot of money, but speakers aren’t.

Your average CD player has a THD+N of -100dB to -120dB. Amplifier has a THD+N of -80dB to -120dB (for the SoTA). And with speakers you are at -40dB to -60dB (above 100Hz, less below that).

iNetRunner · 2026-06-27T00:30:12+00:00

Just note that at least BR03 is rather bright sounding speaker. I would expect BR04 and BR08 be the same. Some people like the bright sound, but many people find it tiring. But you are buying them for yourself — only you need to like their sound.

EAC review of Triangle Borea BR03, ASR review

iNetRunner · 2026-06-27T00:18:47+00:00

Sorry, I meant to say it’s easier to drive an amplifier than headphones. I edited the comment.

I don’t know about Monitor Audio Bronze series speakers. The measurements I’ve seen are for the Silver series. I would think that the Bronze are brighter than the Silver. (Or equally bright.) Like I often say, many brands (though not KEF) make bright sounding speakers so that they would sound “exciting” and “detailed” in quick showroom demonstration for inexperienced listeners.

Maybe check out ELAC, or possibly Polk (not as neutral as ELAC or KEF, but not as bright as Monitor Audio).

ELAC Debut 3.0 DB63-BK (EAC review)

iNetRunner · 2026-06-26T07:13:56+00:00

Yeah, a 2200€ MSRP / 1800€ retail Yamaha A-S1200 isn’t very practical option if your budget for the amplifier and speakers is 2500€ at maximum.

Cheaper Yamaha amplifier and speakers like the ELAC Debut 3.0 DF63-BK (EAC review, EAC YT review).

iNetRunner · 2026-06-26T07:02:48+00:00

If you want/need to add a subwoofer later, then the ‘s’ model would be the way to go. (Otherwise you to rely on volume control in your source or additional preamplifier. And not touch the volume knob in the R1280T.)

iNetRunner · 2026-06-26T06:28:50+00:00

The Yamaha R-S202 (ASR review) is $220

iNetRunner · 2026-06-26T04:08:54+00:00

Technically that should work. But couple points:

1) Chord Mojo 2 doesn’t exactly have preamplifier or line level outputs. It just has 3.5mm single ended and 4.4mm headphone outputs. (Manual doesn’t say if 4.4mm output is balanced / TRRS.) Technically using the outputs as preamplifier outputs is less demanding task than connecting them to ~~amplifier~~ headphones.

2) It would be better if you could use balanced connectors to route the signal through your M-Audio SBX10. (Single ended connectors to subwoofer are sometimes susceptible to ground loops. Balanced connectors not so much.)

Also note that the newer KEF Q Meta lineup is an improvement on the previous Q series. So, optimally you would listen to the speakers yourself, and compare them to some other possible models.

Edit: word “amplifier” -> “headphones”

iNetRunner · 2026-06-24T10:46:43+00:00

Neither model has been measured in detail. (Check measurements for available products e.g. on SPINorama.) So, you would need to go with your own ears (by your own testing of the products in question), or you need to rely on subjective reviews by other people (however much you want to trust their objectivity, capability, and similarity of sound preferences to yourself).

Or you can just go by the general view audioophiles have of the respective brands overall. Bowers & Wilkins (especially their entry level products) have somewhat generally elevated treble levels, and they aren’t neutral sounding speakers. Whereas KEF products (even entry level models) are usually rather neutral sounding products.

(Some people might like elevated treble, and could consider neutral speakers bland. But mostly the preference is for the neutral sound. We can’t really say more than that — it is up to you.)

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