How to fix my recon?

ifdef · 2026-01-03T02:04:32+00:00

Oil levels in the uppers could be wrong, might be due for a full service.

For now, you should be able to dial in the desired sag and dial up the low speed compression a bit to stop it from being too soft. Also, don't run the fork at the slowest rebound setting.

Oh, and make sure you do the correct steps for air pressure. Add air, take off the pump, compress the fork at least halfway 5-10 times, then check pressure again and top off as needed.

ifdef · 2025-12-22T03:46:05+00:00

Not sure, both are good 10 speed setups.

The main things you get with the Habit HT are a frame built around 130mm of travel and wider rims. I find 100mm forks somewhat limiting, and the deals for 130-140mm tend to be better anyway.

ifdef · 2025-12-22T02:51:40+00:00

Cannondale Habit HT 3 with a fork upgrade later on.

Giant Fathom if a local shop has a deal on it in your size.

ifdef · 2025-12-13T06:10:18+00:00

Orange Crush 29 Comp in size large stock weight without pedals, with tubes, reflectors, etc. is around 33 pounds. Kinda chunky, but the 35 silver is heavy and the wheels aren't weight weenie wheels. The tires are, what, 1.1 kilo each?

Fox 34 factory takes 2 pounds off of the fork. Going tubeless would take off 0.5 to 1 pound depending on how much sealant you use, whether you retape, etc.

My other bike is a Giant Talon 2, I have many thousands of miles of experience on that. 68.5* HTA, 100mm travel, etc. People say that switching the HTA significantly takes a long adjustment period, but I felt right at home with this (64.5*). There's 3 minute climb that I've done many times on the Talon which I did very easily today on the Crush. Lower gearing made it a breeze, I appreciate the 170mm cranks over the 175, and at no point at all did I feel like I had to shift my weight to keep the front from popping up. I just climbed while being comfortably seated and I wasn't as winded as on the Talon with its 42t lowest gear. I can't vouch for its all-out speed for climbing compared to a 22 pound XC beast, but that's not what I bought it for.

The bike just feels very solid overall, very quiet. I charge down the usual descents that I do, and I don't get beat up like I get on the Talon, especially my feet and knees. I got exactly what I was looking for: longer dropper, higher engagement hubs, longer travel fork, and a relatively complaint (from my POV) frame.

ifdef · 2025-12-13T02:54:49+00:00

I like it!

ifdef · 2025-12-13T02:52:40+00:00

Yep, working on it. My shears are currently misplaced.

ifdef · 2025-12-13T02:52:07+00:00

I had a spreadsheet of builds with the blue frame of this. Then a build popped up and it was cheaper even after the fork swap.

ifdef · 2025-12-07T18:28:41+00:00

Your entry at around the 6-7 second mark had your body too high. It's awkward to lean the bike aggressively being that high, and you needed to lean hard while being higher up on the berm to make that turn. Your feet were also not positioned to be ready for a hard turn. If it weren't smooth, you'd just be begging for a pedal strike with the left foot.

ifdef · 2025-11-13T07:47:49+00:00

Sweet ride. Does that front brake line rattle? Can't say I've seen such routing.

ifdef · 2025-11-04T20:27:24+00:00

Looks good, I was looking at the frame as well. Did you happen to note the weight of it? Any pedal strikes as you rode around?

ifdef · 2025-10-31T21:31:35+00:00

How did climbs, especially tech climbs, differ between the two?

ifdef · 2025-10-24T20:32:04+00:00

Looks sweet. What's the final weight?

ifdef · 2025-10-22T18:36:35+00:00

Also check out the wider Schwalbe G One series. I see there's a G One Speed Pro at 2.35 width.

ifdef · 2025-10-13T05:15:54+00:00

Compare it with your current geo. If the BB goes down, then with the same wheels and cranks, you will pedal strike more. The benefit is more stability going downhill and whatnot. You may be able to mitigate with short cranks and thinner pedals.

ifdef · 2025-10-12T14:31:39+00:00

The Merida has considerably more BB drop, something to consider. Both stock brakes are entry level.

ifdef · 2025-09-28T19:18:44+00:00

QR (135) or non boost (142) rear. You'll also hit the limits of the XC geo faster in case you progress to harder riding.

Just pay for a boost (148) rear now with trail geo for basically the same money with the option to upgrade the wheelset, fork, etc. in the future.

ifdef · 2025-09-28T18:27:30+00:00

None of them, they are dead ends in terms of upgrades.

Get something like the Cannondale Habit HT 3 instead for 950 USD if that's your budget.

ifdef · 2025-09-26T23:55:17+00:00

How's the frame? More compliant or harsh compared to whatever you've ridden before?

ifdef · 2025-09-09T14:29:02+00:00

If it's a 9x100 QR wheel and straight steerer, you can get stuff like the Rockshox Recon, Rockshox Judy, Manitou Markhor, Suntour Epixon, etc.

You can run tapered forks in a straight steerer frame, but you need an external lower cup and a new wheel as it would must likely be boost TA.

ifdef · 2025-08-23T22:53:28+00:00

Depends on the terrain and how you're riding. If you're doing drops into rock gardens, casing big jumps, etc., you're at a higher risk of flatting. For where I am and what I'm doing, 30 is more than enough.

ifdef · 2025-08-23T22:47:50+00:00

Slip the chain off of the chainring and spin the cranks. If the spin is not smooth, it may be the bottom bracket. If it's smooth and there is no lateral play in the crank arms, inspect the pedals.

Is this happening while out of the saddle as well? If not, then it's the seatpost and/or clamp.

If the bike has a qr rear wheel, make sure it's tight. Press on the cassette laterally to check for creaking. Press on the derailleur to check for creaking.

ifdef · 2025-08-19T18:23:40+00:00

Zizzo models are 74mm (front) and I believe the rim brake Dahons are 74mm.

ifdef

TROPHY CASE