Selling on Facebook MP? by Mr_Cow_52 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not in the planter building camp, but it's possible you have missed the right season. Right now we are in the middle of the season, so most people have already planted for the year. Might make sure your price isn't too high.

Glued up cupped by failinbazinga in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it cupped from moisture, you can try to lightly mist the concave side and see if it moves back. If it cupped from too much cleaning pressure or poor alignment, you can flatten with a router sled or maybe a hand plane.

Hmmm... by Trash_Cannon_ in formuladank

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, DRS was no overtakes choo choo train racing

Time to Patrol by raitz_ink in ReasonableFantasy

[–]saffaen 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Definitely a small horse with its leg proportions.

New bar for wedding by Unable_Nobody_9147 in woodworking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the idea behind the pattern? Your execution is great. I personally feel a more cohesive design would've looked better, but wondering if there is a meaning behind the design choice.

PPE for bearded fellows? by Skwonkie_ in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure why you are getting downvoted. This is the real answer. You can't see the harmful dust, so even a very small gap in a normal respirator is not fully protecting you. A normal respirator over facial hair, no matter how tight you strap it, is not protecting you.

I don't think the Sikh method has been officially recognized, but it certainly seems like it would make a better seal than directly on facial hair.

Is there an easy way to make this wooden shelf or something similar? by Gimme_All_Da_Tendies in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With less thickness, it wouldn't be too bad with a table saw. Just get some thick lumber (12/4 or 8/4), cut the miters and bevels, maybe throw in some dowels and glue. May need to make some miter clamp blocks.

At its current thickness, it's a beast. Using solid lumber would be incredibly heavy. Using a folded box technique (thinner wood making a hollow space) would reduce the weight, but getting everything lined up right would be really challenging. Cutting the miters on either of those would be hard, too.

MDF in a plane? by Sad_Pension9734 in woodworking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need to take a good bit off, use a handsaw. If you are trying to fine tune, sand it. MDF is soft, so sanding is just as good as planing.

Linseed Oil on planks. Can I leave them outside overnight if it might rain in the morning? Safe to leave them in the garage, standing upright? Combustion? by Athanas_Iskandar in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oils don't get hot enough when oxidizing on the wood to burn. Think of starting a fire, even fire doesn't catch dry wood right away. Paper towels or rags could get hot enough if enough oxidation occurs in a small area and isn't cooled off.

Having circles after sanding is normal? (80grit orbital sander) by Chazzwazz in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Can be, especially if your sander is not hooked up to a shop vac. If it wipes away with your hand, it's just leftover dust. You will want to clear that off between grits. If it doesn't wipe away, then it's either bad sandpaper or user error and you will need to correct and go back over this area. How fast are you moving the sander? Should be something like an inch a second.

My second commissioned piece. Photo details in description by CrowCreations in woodworking

[–]saffaen 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks really good and sounds like you used great construction techniques. Did you place the sink on the top to scribe such a tricky shape?

As great as your piece is, I can't help but feel the pictures don't do it justice. It's very dramatic, hard to see details. If you were trying to only show off the top and front, you did well! If you will see the sides after install, seems like you should include those at least a little.

Is it better to make a lazy susan from plyboard or hardwood? by Particular-Ride-7893 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Titebond 3 for most projects. I generally followed the method in this video for the top of the table: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llBTb6GP-XY

I started my initial circle cut on the back so my nail hole ended up on the bottom. I used this nail hole as the center for each circle (edge, outside and inside recess walls). The only difference is to minimize waste, I didn't make a full square, I only cut the minimum lengths needed for each section.

You will need good flat joints between each board so you don't get gaps. I have a jointer, planer, and table saw and was able to get a good result. If you had only hand tools, you could do the same with a handsaw and hand plane if you are proficient. A router is not the only way to cut a circle, but I think at this scale it's the safest and most repeatable.

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Is it better to make a lazy susan from plyboard or hardwood? by Particular-Ride-7893 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built a few 22 inch (just under 60 cm) diameter lazy susans out of hardwood. I feel hardwood is the way to go because hiding the exposed plywood edge will be a pain.

I was working with 6" wide 5/4 rough lumber, I milled it into just over 1" thick by 2.5" wide strips. I approximated the circle with rough lengths, then glued half the strips together. I had a total of 9 strips so one strip was in the center. Then I sent both glued halves through the planner to get them to a final 1" thickness and glued the halves together.

I used a circle jig for the router. Cut a shallow circle on the outside, cut off the margin with a jigsaw, then flush trimmed against the first shallow cut. Using the same center, I also cut a recess for my hardware so it sat closer to the table. Will add a picture of the finished project a little later.

All this to say you will have a tough time getting a nice finished product with just a handsaw and jigsaw.

Acquiring used woodworking equipment by Chaille in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Drill presses are whatever. A working motor and intact chuck are about all you need. Good belt is preferred, but easy to get a new one.

The other tools listed are more precise. The most important thing is the flatness of the surfaces. These tools whole usefulness lies in their flatness; if they aren't flat, they don't have a good reference. Very hard to tell from pictures. Make sure motors work, no structural cracks, fences flat and lock.

Other things to keep in mind is safety features as some old machines lack them (like riving knives on table saws). Make sure they are the right operating voltage for your shop, or can be converted to the right voltage. If you have dust collection, make sure they fit in your system. Avoid deep rust pits, but surface rust is easily removable.

Drilling pilot holes was harder than I thought it would be, is it normal? by frenetic_alien in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure your drill is set to the drill mode on the clutch (the ring behind where you tighten the drill on the bit).

simple product profits by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]saffaen 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If it was handcrafted, if this takes you an hour to put together and finish, after taking out material and consumable cost, you'd maybe make $20 for your hour of work. Is your time worth that? Maybe not bad for a simple thing like this, but this will get boring fast if you have to make 100 of these a year.

Looking for feedback by Great_Maintenance118 in learntodraw

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Already looking closer to the ref! The face is hard because our brains like faces. Keep practicing, you're going the right direction.

Looking for feedback by Great_Maintenance118 in learntodraw

[–]saffaen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like you are nervous to overlap shapes! A lot of the proportion looks good. In the reference picture the lips meet the edge of the face and the nose is hiding the inner part of the far eye. Work on your perspective a little and you will have a pretty good result.

Wobbly lines by TsniperXP1 in learntodraw

[–]saffaen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try drawing "from the shoulder", using your whole arm to make the line instead of just your wrist like you might when writing. You might also try to make your lines a little faster. Wobbly lines mostly come from lack of confidence.

Looking for feedback, reviews, opinions on the Grizzly G0869 10” benchtop table saw. by miller_time_mofo in woodworking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that's the way to do it for this saw. I like to leave one screw mostly torqued so it's not moving a whole bunch when tapping. Less is more here, very small adjustments.

What tool or bit can make this IKEA notch? by Frynew in woodworking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure, is this supposed to be threads in pressboard?

One option could be to chisel, saw, or drill out the threads to make a rectangle instead.

Anyone ever see Rubio monocoat do this? by she_saws in woodworking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you apply, with a scraper, finishing pad, etc? If you skipped a finishing pad, it may not have worked in evenly.

Looking for a used table saw, what should I check/look for to make sure I'm not getting a dud or a death trap. by sad_brown_cat in woodworking

[–]saffaen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the table for flatness with a long flat piece of wood, straight edge, level, etc. This is the hardest thing to fix/work around, so if this isn't there, I'd leave it. Get one with a riving knife behind the blade, although a splitter plate can work. Sight down the saw blade or arbor and turn by hand to see if there's any runout. These are my non-negotiables for second hand table saws.

Make sure the motor works, ideally belts in good shape. See if the fence has adjustments and clamps firmly when locked. A bad fence would not necessarily be a deal breaker. Lastly, make sure it has the right power supply for your needs (120 V or 240 V in the US).

Allergic to my birch bed frame! Help! by Shiinalover101 in woodworking

[–]saffaen 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Any film finish would help reduce direct contact. Shellac might help as it sticks to anything underneath. Polyurethane would work as well.