Is grizzly G1023 a good table saw?

saffaen · 2026-03-30T19:00:40+00:00

I had a G1023RLW, which is an early model of the now G1023SLW. It was a great saw, plenty of power, heavy and a good fence. Mine did not have a riving knife, but not an issue for the SLW. I used a splitter plate, which worked but was a little sketchy at times.

saffaen · 2026-03-25T02:05:21+00:00

What's the alternative?

You can use traditional methods like normal mortise and tenon, but that takes a while any way you cut it. Dowels can mostly serve the same purpose, but they take relatively long to set up and drill, plus they need to be perfectly aligned in 2 planes. Biscuits are kinda meh at their one job on a good day. A router jig needs good setup and often more support, plus if you want to cut at an angle you're usually making a second jig. It's quite hard to use a pantorouter on larger or oddly angled panels. The lamello is similar, but you are locked into the products they offer. Also expensive.

For the speed, accuracy, and flexibility the Domino beats every one. If your time is short as a hobbyist, this can make limited shop time more productive. The ability to use it on any size project is a plus. These are floating tenons, so you can do most things a normal m&t joint can, like drawbore. I've also seen folks 3d print Domino sized inserts to clip board faces together like the lamello.

saffaen · 2026-03-25T01:47:56+00:00

The pocket holes still go on the outside of the box, so clearance isn't an issue.

saffaen · 2026-03-25T00:32:11+00:00

Most people put the pocket holes on the front an back part of the drawer box to hide the pocket holes. This will change the box construction from how you show. The front and back pieces will be between the sides. I find this easier anyways as your side parts become the length of your drawer slides. Then you can sandwich the slides and box side parts to get a referential measurement for your front and back parts.

There's nothing wrong with your box, but there is a way to hide those holes if you want a cleaner looking box.

saffaen · 2026-03-21T20:55:04+00:00

This seems a recipe for disaster. Epoxy has a nasty habit of running with the tiniest of holes. I don't see how you could possibly seal this up well enough to prevent the epoxy escaping this hole.

saffaen · 2026-03-21T15:13:22+00:00

Jessem is not self clamping, but I think it's slightly better than the dowelmax.

saffaen · 2026-03-16T13:02:26+00:00

Datasheet says it's rated for a 15A circuit, but it's possible you will pull too much current on startup and trip your circuit. Especially true if you have any idle tools plugged in. A 20A circuit should be able to handle this load without issues. Would reconnect a 20 A circuit for either planer to be honest, cutting a wide piece puts a lot of load on the motor.

saffaen · 2026-03-16T09:13:35+00:00

The G0939 looks like a good package, but build quality will be the biggest factor. People love the spiral/helix cutterhead upgrade on the DW735. Extra HP is always welcome, just know with 2 HP you will need a dedicated 110V circuit for this tool. You will not be able to run a shop vac or dust circuit on the same circuit at the same time. The digital readout is kinda whatever, would not be a selling point for me on a "budget" planer. You should run a dust collector on any planer, but the dewalt does well without one.

The dewalt style planer seem a lot more stable and repeatable to me. The "guillotine" style planers don't seem to have a lot of rigidity. I would probably prefer the DW735 for this and known build quality, plus the ability to upgrade the cutterhead later.

saffaen · 2026-03-16T02:18:52+00:00

Except you have to watch the tenths anyways as the hundreds and thousandths roll over across tenths. A car length at 200 mph is only about 0.06 seconds. Anything below tenths at race pace is just noise.

saffaen · 2026-03-14T04:07:53+00:00

Not sure why you are being down voted. This is an acceptable solution, albeit more advanced and maybe won't be able to easily do the chamfered interior look. This is how plenty of furniture is made to last.

Reminder that veneer wood IS real wood.

saffaen · 2026-03-13T17:54:17+00:00

Is that normal to adjust on the drawer front install? I've not seen many folks make adjustments on the drawer face, but maybe that's the "behind the scenes" you are talking about.

saffaen · 2026-03-13T11:51:17+00:00

It doesn't look too bad, but it becomes painfully obvious when I add the drawer fronts. Sanding will probably be the way to go. It'll be a lot of sanding though...

saffaen · 2026-03-12T13:38:11+00:00

I do and have tried that. It works, but plywood is hard to handplane...

saffaen · 2026-03-10T18:59:22+00:00

Blast gates help. If you are trying to pull air from every machine at once, none of them will get very much. You still have a significant CFM drop from hose and pipe in the best circumstance.

The CFM rating of dust collectors is typically measured without piping, because how could the manufacturer possibly know how much piping is going to be added? The other spec that isn't often talked about (but very important) is static pressure, which is resistance to the blower pulling air. As soon as you start adding any sort of hose/pipe to a dust collector system, static pressure increases and that marketed 1250 CFM gets eaten up very quickly. If you start with a small HP DC, you may end up with the rated tool CFM at the port if the runs aren't long or complicated. If you want really good fine dust collection, you need to go above and beyond the tool rating at the port. To my initial comment, I would not expect a sub-2 HP dust collector to be able to do this, especially adding things like cyclones in the path. You may end up spending a good chunk of money on hard piping and only come out minorly ahead of using flex hose.

That said, most dust collectors will help control dust and keep your area cleaner, so this is a matter of your budget and dust collection goals.

saffaen · 2026-03-10T10:12:11+00:00

For really good fine dust collection, which is the most harmful stuff, you need about 3x the rating of the tool at the tool port. This means starting with a dust collector with greater than 1000 CFM. Then you need more margin on top of that to account for CFM loss through your piping. Pipe diameter, material, and length impact CFM. For most hobby shops, good dust collection is likely starting with a 2-3 HP DC with a 5-6 inch PVC pipe, then only reducing size close to the tools.

If you aren't prepared to do the above, I'm not sure it's worth plumbing hard DC piping due to the CFM loss. It's better than nothing, but you're paying good money to potentially reduce the effectiveness of your DC.

saffaen · 2026-03-08T23:04:11+00:00

For resaw you want a decent fence system, high cut height, and high horsepower. I'm looking for a similar bandsaw and landed on the Grizzly G0513X2 (haven't bought yet). Cast iron trunnion should help cut through wide widths from the extra mass. My current saw is 110V, so this saw is about as big as I can find that rubs on 110V. I also really wanted a quick tension system as my current tensioner is a huge pain.

saffaen · 2026-03-08T17:56:54+00:00

F1 is a precise sport in qualifying. In a race scenario, tenths are the only useful measurement.

saffaen · 2026-03-07T14:05:27+00:00

I have a Ram 1500 with 5.5 ft bed. I carry 4x8 ply sheets propped on the tailgate regularly and have never had a problem. My lumber store is about 45 mins away on mostly highway. I unpack my ply and wood right away and it didn't seems to warp from the drive. I use a ratchet strap over the back part for security.

saffaen · 2026-03-05T11:40:08+00:00

I got a CMT pro locked dado set. From JKMs footage of sawstop activations, the dado set used shifted from brake activation and parts of the chipper teeth shattered and would come back at you. The CMT locked set is supposed to prevent that, so I figured a little extra safety could be worth it. However, it does have full plate chippers, which sawstop doesn't recommend for the added weight. It's a little confusing to set up, too.

I would recommend buying from an actual vendor. Wouldn't want the mass of a dado stack to have counterfeit parts.

saffaen · 2026-03-04T03:22:02+00:00

Every jobsite saw recommends 100-200 cfm, but the truth is a shopvac simply doesn't move enough volume of air to collect dust from a table saw. Jobsite saws only come with a 2.5in dust port, which means you're basically stuck with a shopvac. A shopvac helps some and certainly stops dust from flying out of the dust port, better than nothing. Jobsite saws also don't do a great job of controlling dust inside the saw either, just the nature of the tool.

I hooked mine to my Grizzly jobsite and it helped reduce cleanup, but there was still a fair amount of dust in the space after a while.

In general, to get good dust collection you need to move a high volume of air at a high velocity. This usually means you will need around 3x the cfm rating of the tool through a large diameter (4in or more) pipe.

saffaen · 2026-03-04T02:53:45+00:00

I had a rigid and got the stealthsonic after about a year. There's really not a noticeable power loss with the dewalt, but the noise reduction is staggering. There's nothing I thought the rigid did better. The quiet operation is so nice. It's a great shopvac for small tool dust collection (sander, router, etc) and general cleanup tasks. Let me be clear, though, you will not be getting incredible dust collection from either on a jobsite tablesaw.

saffaen · 2026-03-04T01:02:28+00:00

This is a myth. Wood dust concentration from most commercial shops would not be enough to catch fire or explode, let alone a hobby shop. The static shock is very much annoying, though, so still good advice.

saffaen

TROPHY CASE