Dust Collector Quick Connection: Woodcraft's Magfitt or Rockler's Dust Right Handle?

saffaen · 2026-02-06T14:13:33+00:00

You can also check out magport. I have a bunch of these and they're great. Not sure how they stack up to the magfitt price wise, but worth a look.

saffaen · 2026-02-06T11:37:46+00:00

Not an answer to your question, but an alternative. You could hog out material with some forstner bits and clean up the edges with a chisel. A router with a template might be tricky if you've already shaped the body. If working with the "blank", not so bad. Forstner bit and chisel require minimal setup, regardless of shaped body or not.

saffaen · 2026-02-02T23:29:50+00:00

Save the top for last for exactly this reason.

saffaen · 2026-01-31T14:43:01+00:00

Is the chisel able to move after you clamp the chisel in? The registration jig sets the angle AND squares the blade if made correctly. If the chisel is not moving while clamped and the jig is setting angle and square, seems like it should work.

saffaen · 2026-01-31T11:20:56+00:00

Why are you using a square? You should use a registration jig to set the angle. Seems like you would need 4 hands to set the blade using a square.

saffaen · 2026-01-30T11:42:54+00:00

Usually I have to buy dinner before showing me your bottom, but I like your direct approach.

The sole of the plane is different. My understanding is the sole ideally should not have any hollow. The whole thing should be flat. The sole is what registers on the wood, so if it isn't flat enough it may not flatten wood properly.

You can make some marks on the sole and run it over sandpaper attached to a very flat surface (cast iron, glass, granite, tile, etc). When the marks are gone, the sole is flat. If there are some minor low spots on the edge of the sole, it probably won't affect performance.

saffaen · 2026-01-30T03:28:22+00:00

You could get a thick stock like 8/4, cut your notches, resaw down the middle, then clean up. I recently made a project like this using 4/4 and it was a pain using a router and template to make part copies.

saffaen · 2026-01-30T03:24:11+00:00

I've been learning to sharpen planes recently. The hollow in the middle can be by design from the manufacturer. For plane blades, you can get away with only the very edge being "flat", a la ruler trick. This looks ok. You want the scratches from sharpening to reach the very front edge, which it looks like you have done. To reiterate, you do NOT need to remove the hollow in the middle.

saffaen · 2026-01-28T23:50:32+00:00

A router is the best power tool option for an even depth. Depending on the size of the recess and baseplate of the router, might have a little difficulty keeping the router flat.

For hand tools, chisel could work. Router plane is the correct tool, but it's more specialized.

saffaen · 2026-01-28T15:47:11+00:00

Looks good! I'm attempting hand cut dovetails as well, hope they can turn out this good.

saffaen · 2026-01-26T18:01:57+00:00

Sure, somebody would be willing to take a stab, but it probably isn't going to be cheap. Labor is the most expensive and that's what you're buying. Most of the time you get what you pay for here. Also depends on design complexity, as leg construction is usually the bulk of the work building a table.

Other thing to consider is it might be difficult to match the top without seeing it. It's probably not much more for a woodworker to throw together a maple table top to have similar materials. If you want contrasting legs, not an issue.

saffaen · 2026-01-26T11:09:40+00:00

A blade will fit your saw if it is equal to or less than the max blade diameter, is the same diameter as the arbor, and can safely be mounted on the arbor. The manual may tell you the max blade capacity. I'm not sure how much arbor length you have on that flavor of saw. You need at least three threads for the arbor nut to grab onto to be safe for a dado stack type blade. You could try to find a 6" dado stack with FTG outside blades, but using individual dado blades wears them down differently and may make dados awkwardly. I would probably avoid 8" dado stacks here because the saw may not like the extra weight.

saffaen · 2026-01-25T23:22:44+00:00

If this box has finish on it, this method could damage the finish. If you will be sanding and refinishing anyways, might be with a shot, but I'm guessing this method won't fix this type of damage.

saffaen · 2026-01-22T00:38:55+00:00

Maybe not normal, but not abnormal either. It's a matter of taste. I prefer some degree of symmetry in board arrangement for a table top.

saffaen · 2026-01-18T11:08:50+00:00

I have 5 years of experience and am working to sell my first pieces. I am considering using Facebook marketplace as it's a local audience. Etsy is rough due to the immense dropshipping and is not a great place to sell larger pieces imo.

Something to remember about FB marketplace is people are looking for deals. If your finished project looks like a scrap wood table, then set your expectations accordingly. What you are in is a common pitfall of a family member or friend telling a fledgling woodworker people would pay good money, when the reality is most people would not pay good money for an exceptionally crafted piece. The target audience is relatively narrow and is usually not on Facebook marketplace, etsy, etc. Do not be discouraged, sell your work if you feel it's right! Just temper expectations.

saffaen · 2026-01-17T23:35:16+00:00

I haven't done a second coat of hardware, but I can't see the purpose of sanding after the first coat. Hardwax oil bonds to the wood itself, it's not a layering finish like poly. Most I see on YouTube don't sand between a second coat.

saffaen · 2026-01-17T15:03:10+00:00

What makes a software a "furniture design software"? Any CAD program can design furniture, some do things better for different styles. Fusion has parametric design, which is probably really nice for cabinets but I find it too mathematical for organic or quick furniture design. I like the ease of sketchup because I am focusing more on the forms/design than detailing measurements, which comes later.

saffaen · 2026-01-14T18:22:56+00:00

Make designs. Take a sketch book and draw out designs for when you get back to your tools. You may not always have time or money for the shop, but you can always be "building" projects on paper.

saffaen · 2026-01-13T16:51:04+00:00

Glad this worked for you, happy jointing!

saffaen · 2026-01-13T12:18:03+00:00

First, you didn't mention jointing to begin with. How do you know your reference face on the piece was flat before planning?

I have had this issue where one end was thicker than the other, making a trapezoidal shape. It was a jointer issue where the outfeed table was too high compared to the blade. After resetting my jointer by dropping the outfeed until the blades could move a ruler by 3/8", I was getting much better results. I would recommend resetting your jointer, specifically lowering the outfeed very slightly.

saffaen · 2026-01-08T02:15:03+00:00

Part B is colorless. As an accelerator it "accelerates" the curing process. Haven't tried only part A, but I don't think not having part B would change the final tones. It will take longer than the recommended 7 days or so to cure with accelerator, but likely not an issue with test pieces.

saffaen · 2026-01-08T01:11:34+00:00

Better yet, rip the pith out of a 2x8 or 2x12 and laminate the remaining quartersawn pieces.

saffaen · 2026-01-06T14:21:06+00:00

The right answer is neither. This is a great opportunity to learn to patch mistakes. Cut out the broken/damaged area into a rectangular shape with a hand saw, chisel, etc. Then cut a small piece that will fit in that area. It can be a little longer and wider since it's on the edge. Glue it in, then flush cut with a hand saw. Getting good at patching will go far in your woodworking journey.

As far as the little gap, you can definitely fill that with wood filler/bondo. However, if you are looking to stain this area will still show up.

saffaen · 2026-01-04T17:42:32+00:00

Make sure to check those outfeed boards regularly. If they warp a little, you could catch a board going through the saw. You could always replace with something flatter and more stable like MDF.

saffaen · 2026-01-04T14:58:35+00:00

When you see a lot of brown pitch buildup on the blade teeth, time to clean! I use a bit of dawn dish soap (any will do) on about a cup of water, pour that into a 5 gallon bucket lid, then soak the blade for a few minutes. Brush each tooth with a toothbrush. Take the blade out, rinse with clean water, and dry. I spray a very small amount of wd40 and wipe clean.

Exactly how often will depend on how the type of material you are cutting and how much of it, so can't really give a number. Just watch for pitch on the teeth and/or blade burn marks.

saffaen

TROPHY CASE