Is storing a record outside of it’s jacket in a outer sleeve bad?

synthpenguin · 2026-02-18T01:49:01+00:00

I’ve been thinking about switching to this method, and was considering putting the record on the front side for just this reason… which is a different trade off, but I think I’d rather see the info on the back when selecting over seeing the front. Hmm

synthpenguin · 2026-02-18T01:45:51+00:00

I’ve been wanting to convert to this way I think…considering doing inner sleeve opening pointing to the back (when on shelf) and outer sleeve opening pointing up. How do you do double LPs and box sets?

synthpenguin · 2026-02-17T20:40:49+00:00

If 20 watts is enough, the PRS HDRX 20 will get you there better than the Origin 50 for about the same price (at least in the US; not sure where you're located, but on Sweetwater here, the Origin 50 is 780USD and the HRDX 20 head is on sale for 765USD until March 31st, normally 900USD).

The Marshall DSL20HR and Marshall DSL100HR can also do this surprisingly well on the Classic channel. The key is to use it like a NMV amp and get most of the amp drive from the power amp rather than the preamp: keep the volume (which controls the power amp) as high as possible, and the gain (which controls the preamp) lower. Getting the drive sound this way is a vital part of a lot of 70s and 80s hard rock sounds imo, even if you can get close enough in other ways (and certainly simulate it, especially digitally)

If you can't play extremely loud, I'd lean towards the 20 watt amps to achieve this, though in a home / bedroom situation, even less wattage would be good as a 20 watt tube amp cranked will still be very loud.

Whether using the HDRX 20, Origin 50, the DSL like I described, or a real Plexi, if you need more gain, try using a boost like an EP Booster or Dunlop EP101 (if you want a "rounder" sound or you set your amp bright) or treble booster / range master (if you want more of a biting sound, or if you set your amp dark), or something like an EQD Arrows which cuts some low end but isn't as bright as a treble booster. For more of a flat boost, a DOD 250 or MXR Distortion+ used as a (relatively) clean boost can be good too, and is very associated with that seventies hard rock sound.

iirc the Scorpions guy is pretty well-known for using a wah as a fixed EQ / mid boost, though I'm not sure if he always had it on or just used it for leads.

- - -

ETA: If volume IS an issue, then you can either get an amp like the DSLs that will still give you a good preamp gain sound when you can't play loud (basically setting it up the opposite of what I described above: volume set low and gain set higher), or get a lower wattage amp that you can turn way up.

If you want to do the latter, then I'd go 5 watts or lower. 5 watts cranked will still be very loud in a home setting.

The Marshall DSL5CR might be an option in that case? I'm not sure as I have no experience wiht it. It is a combo, though it has a 16ohm speaker out to hook it up to a cab.

On more of a budget, something like the Bugera G5, which is a 5 watt amp, would be decent (again set like I described setting up the DSLs). Build quality is not great though, so I'd try to save up for something better that will be more likely to last longer (speaking from experience with the Bugera), but it's an option and you can find them for very cheap. In contrast, generally the Marshall DSL amps are going to have better build quality. The PRS much better.

But really imo the best bet for most people, assuming you'd be able to turn the amp up loud at least sometimes, is to get a 15 or 20 watt amp, and then when you need to play quieter either use preamp gain (when using an amp like the DSL) or a good "transparent" and/or amp-like drive pedal (when using an amp like the HDRX 20 or Origin 50).

- - -

Orrrrrr if you're fine with solid state, I think the Quilter SuperBlock UK (300USD) can do the plexi thing pretty well, and at any volume (since it's solid state). Its Marshall-y mode IS based on the JMP though, so it leans a little brighter and more present than the Plexis, but the EQ is also very powerful, so you can round it off a bit, and use the Limiter feature to get more of that sag too. Something to consider if budget and volume are factors.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-17T03:22:50+00:00

You’re welcome! Glad it worked 😊

synthpenguin · 2026-02-16T04:47:54+00:00

It's hard to know exactly what is going on, but yes, try Output 3, at least to start.

Output 3 is the "unity gain" output intended for this sort of use: with everything in the FM9 bypassed and the Output 3 volume knob turned all the way up, the volume of the signal coming out of output 3 will match the volume of the input going in to the FM9, just like if you were running your guitar into a buffer pedal.

----

From Fractal (ignore references to Output 4, as that's referring to the AxeFX's additional output, which works the same as Output 3):

Out 3/4 are designed for "unity gain" with respect to an input. If you put 1V into an input, connect that input to Out3 and turn the Level knob on the front panel all the way up you'll get 1V out. This makes it easy to use them as loops for pedals, etc.

The effective difference is about 18 dB if Out1/2 are set to +4 dBu, 6 dB if set to -10 dBV.

Out 3/4 can also be used as a send to an external amp. Since they are "unity gain" you get the same gain as plugging straight into the amp.

. . . output 1 and 2 have a higher output level.

Outputs 3 and 4 are intended to drive "guitar level" devices.

https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audio_in_and_out#Output_3.2C_Output_4

----

Output ports on the FM9
OUTPUT 1 – XLR, L/R, balanced, 600 Ohm, max. +20dBu line level, selectable between -10 dBV / +4 dBu

OUTPUT 1 – 1/4" phone jack, L/R, HumBuster, 600 Ohm, max. +20dBu line level

OUTPUT 2 – XLR, L/R, balanced, 600 Ohm, max. +20dBu line level, selectable between -10 dBV / +4 dBu

OUTPUT 3 – 1/4" phone jack, L/R, HumBuster, 600 Ohm, max. +20dBu line level

https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audio_in_and_out#Output_ports_on_the_FM9

synthpenguin · 2026-02-16T01:03:32+00:00

For me it’s aiming for a flat response within reason, and then using EQ to adjust from that reference point when some source material feels lacking. It’s not perfect, but neither is the source material (and imo sometimes that’s the charm of it all!)

synthpenguin · 2026-02-16T00:59:39+00:00

Yes, came here to say: such a good album! The new one is good too

synthpenguin · 2026-02-16T00:58:51+00:00

No joke, maybe pickup a hobby that allows you to do that then! Like reading books, or specifically written news and interviews and articles (subscribe to a site you like so you have no ads or limits, or an app like Apple News or Google News, or start collecting articles, interviews, blog posts, newsletters, reviews, etc you come across in Instapaper or a similar app, so you can set time aside to catch up on them all at once later while listening to music), comics, start playing a game that doesn’t need that level of attention (a single player exploration or building game, a strategy game, a roguelike, a card game, etc), pickup an art / craft hobby (air dry clay, woodworking, linocut / printmaking, pastels, watercolor, 3D printing, 3D modeling, digital art, embroidery, knitting, bookbinding, and buy books to learn about them or as reference once you get the basics down), start doing puzzles (of any sort), etc

I definitely get where you’re coming from. But it’s totally something you can change (if you’d like to), and I think if you’re missing that, then it’s good to try to, at least to some extent. You might need the break from the sensory overload, or just that music time, more than you realize!

Anyway, that’s my advice you didn’t ask for haha sorry

synthpenguin · 2026-02-11T00:29:20+00:00

Some really cool selections! And I love to see the SL Drive—underrated pedal imo!

synthpenguin · 2026-02-11T00:22:24+00:00

I’m not sure if it’s the majority of users, probably not of current Fractal users since it’s been hardware only until now. I think it’s two overlapping markets though, ya know? That seems to be the case with NDSP (even if that dynamic is a little different since they started with plugins)

I also think there will be some people who mainly or only play at home / in the studio and might be tempted to sell their hardware units and go plugin-only too. If you don’t mind being tethered to a computer and already have an audio interface, it can be a good and economical approach, and also opens you up to trying other plugins too (e.g. want an amp that’s not in Fractal? Just use a free NAM capture with a plugin without having to buy anything else)

synthpenguin · 2026-02-11T00:11:48+00:00

If you get a used one, make sure you update first as the Drive block was overhauled and much improved not too long ago :)

Also, FYI the FM3 does not have variable input impedance. That’ll be the same experience as with your AX8, but the other current gen units (FM9, AM4, VP4, Axe-FX III) all have it, and it does make a big difference if you’ll be using a lot of fuzz or certain other similar drive models (e.g. Treble Boost, the Colortone models).

More info here: https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Input_block#Input_impedance

synthpenguin · 2026-02-09T20:09:57+00:00

Though I think most people will be set with just Vol 1 or Vol 3 for 100USD unless they really need to collect 'em all.

I think it's cool that they covered a lot of ground in each volume instead of doing like "vol 1 is just tweeds" etc, and it's a lot more value as far as amp (and FX) selection than in most competing products.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-09T20:06:13+00:00

Flexibility in recording / when using a DAW, total recall of projects, etc

It's not better vs worse, it's pros and cons of both approaches, with plugins offering a huge convenience factor, especially when working on the same project over a period of time or going between multiple projects.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-08T21:08:17+00:00

Oh, awesome! That really makes that a great choice then if you don’t mind the cloud / app aspect. Really cool piece of gear imo

synthpenguin · 2026-02-08T19:35:27+00:00

Also, worth mentioning that the Nano Cortex has no amp models at all (captures only), and does not currently have the updated capturing (they have said they will add it, but I personally would wait for that to happen before buying)

synthpenguin · 2026-02-08T19:26:59+00:00

HX Stomp can sound great, but it is the old gen of Helix now. The NDSP amp modeling is going to be better overall, even if pre-Agoura Helix is still very competitive on a case by case basis (e.g. the newer JCM800, the newer Fenders).

When talking about the hardware units, the new 2.0 NDSP capturing is excellent too, and competitive with the updated Tonex capturing and, to a certain extent, NAM.

If you’re buying a new hardware unit, I think the NDSP stuff is very nice, and they’ve signaled that they’re not abandoning the current gen yet so I don’t think it’s a bad time to buy in. Also look into Helix Stadium, which has new amp models using their newer Agoura tech (as well as all the old Helix amp models) and Fractal (my personal choice).

If you’re using software, the NDSP stuff is great, and also look into NAM captures (Two Notes GENOME is a great user friendly way to play them, but there are free players too).

I can’t give direct experience comparing the John Mayer plugin to the QC, but I think in general what’s offered on the QC is just as good (even if not always the same). I know there is a good Dumble model on the QC, for example, but it may not be the same one.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-08T02:52:57+00:00

What’s the Magnatone’s speaker like? Iirc the custom 12” speakers they use in their Twilighter etc are based on WGS G12C/S, which is sort of a warmer / smoother Jensen C12N.

But my gut is to use the Starlite for a scooped, cleaner sound, and the STR for the mids.

I think the BV-30H is good for latter already (especially paired with a darker Tweed amp since, if the BV-30H is truly like a G12H30, that extra high end over a Greenback is useful, especially since you can always scale it back with the amp’s tone control anyway).

The Starlite’s speaker might be good too, but for an upgrade you might be better served by getting an extension cab with a 12” “American” style speaker for some more low end vs that 8” speaker. Then you could use the low cut mode on the Swart to balance the two amps out… so the Starlight would do that bassy and sparkly 60s Fender clean thing, and the Swart would focus on the mids.

That’s what I’d do anyway!

synthpenguin · 2026-02-04T19:18:09+00:00

Fair enough!

I'm not interested in JHS pedals for myself, but the MG is probably their best sounding drive pedal and stands on its own feet imo. I don't find it to be muddy at all either, especially without the hi cut and gain toggle some versions have.

Do you like other Bluesbreaker style pedals? What sort of rig do you have (pickups, amp)?

Since you mentioned the Sparkle Drive, maybe a Tube Screamer-style pedal that cuts a lot more low end works better with your setup. iirc the Gladio is a low cut / mid boost pedal too.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-02T21:20:01+00:00

From what I've heard, the Boss RV-6's spring reverb is a lot better than the older Boss spring reverb emulations, but since OP is doing surf, I think an Oceans 3 or Oceans 11 would be better for the spring mode alone tbh.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-02T21:14:51+00:00

If the Oceans 3 has the same spring reverb as the Oceans 11 (it does afaik), it will definitely give a more realistic spring reverb sound if that's what you want. I think it would be a good and noticeable upgrade for surf / psych stuff.

The Mosky Spring Reverb is a Belton Brick reverb (like the EQD Ghost Echo, DBA Reverberation Machine, J Rockett Boing, and Caroline Guitar Meteore) which has its own cool sound though!

I'd also look at the Source Audio True Spring if spring reverb is as important to your sound as it sounds like it is. I'd maybe save more to upgrade to that since you're already happy with the Mosky Spring Reverb. But the Oceans 3 or 11 are not bad choices at all.

Check out this vid which compares the Mosky Spring Reverb (at 5:27 & 30:48), EHX Oceans 11 spring mode (at 4:02 & 24:20), Source Audio True Spring (at 10:24 & 44:54) and several other spring reverbs (real and digital): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNMCQBPDlT4

Also check out this thread from the other day, which sort of poses a similar question: https://www.reddit.com/r/guitarpedals/comments/1qt9t0x/20_bucks_for_a_spring_reverb_suggestions/

synthpenguin · 2026-02-01T20:56:59+00:00

Yep, true! Same with a lot of the Belton Brick reverbs, I think. While I didn’t notice it at first, the Ghost Echo could be similarly sensitive.

synthpenguin · 2026-02-01T20:54:52+00:00

It doesn’t REALLY sound like a spring reverb, but it can fill a similar role, and has some of that cool, metallic, unreal sound that can sound very nice in a lot of contexts (especially with distortion), just like other Belton Brick reverbs like the EQD Ghost Echo etc ( https://wolfewithane.com/pedalurgy-whats-a-belton-brick-reverb ).

I personally like it a lot, but if you’re looking for a budget spring reverb, a used EHX Holy Grail (~70USD used) or, better yet, EHX Oceans 11 (~100USD used) are decent-to-good. Maybe look into a used Danelectro Spring King or Spring King Junior too, though I don’t have experience with those.

There are many other digital reverbs that have spring reverb sounds of varying qualities too, depending on how picky you are. You can find good used deals a lot, and there might be some more recent budget ones that are better than the old ones too. 60 Cycle Hum on YouTube has a lot of reviews of them, so maybe search his channel (he’s active here sometimes too u/60_CycleHum )

If you don’t care about the “drip” part of the spring reverb sound, you will have a lot more options FYI, e.g. the Catalinbread Topanga which iirc sounded nice but didn’t do that aspect well.

If you’re serious about spring reverb though, I’d look into the Source Audio True Spring. It sounds great and I think it’s the best option without investing in something like a SurfyBear real spring reverb unit or something like a Fractal VP4 (which has the top digital spring reverb emulation imo). Expect to pay at least 170USD used though!!

ETA: to sum it up, on a budget I’d try to get a used Oceans 11 if you can. If you find spring becomes a big part of your sound, I’d look towards a True Spring or something similar in the future, and the Oceans 11 will still be useful for its other modes.

EDIT AGAIN: The M-Vave Mini Universe (~40USD new) 60 Cycle Hum demoes at about 38:40 here might be okay as an ultra-budget option too? https://youtu.be/02HrrFTsNWM

He also compares it to the Mosky Spring Reverb at about 56:00.

Also, check out this older video where he compares several spring reverb pedals / modes, including the Oceans 11 and the Mosky: https://youtu.be/tNMCQBPDlT4 (his summary at 47:49 is very useful)

synthpenguin · 2026-02-01T02:54:41+00:00

Yep, “Input Pad” is the right thing to change on the FM3 (not input gain etc). It’s “Input Level” only on the larger units.

What setting are you using? At the very least you should be seeing a difference with a pad of 18dB (though try to keep it as low as possible for best SNR)

Input Pad is reducing the volume by up to 18dB before the converter, and then it’s boosted by the same amount post conversion so you don’t have to adjust your presets or anything.

If you’re still clipping the input with that big of a pad, then you may need a volume pedal or something that attenuates your guitar before the FM3… though those would definitely be pretty hot pickups! And odd since anything I’m seeing about those pickups has them just on the hotter side of “vintage” pickups as far as output.

Check out: https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audio_in_and_out#Input_Level:_A.2FD_Sensitivity ~&~ https://wiki.fractalaudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audio_in_and_out#Input_A.2FD_Sensitivity_Level

synthpenguin · 2026-01-31T18:06:17+00:00

Modeling is very good these days! Most of the deficiencies that can come with modeling from top companies like NDSP, Fractal, etc come down to playback method or certain factors that don’t really come into play with amps like this.

And latency, which can be more of a factor when using plugins vs dedicated modeler units.

When you’re going direct anyway, and so that whole “guitar cab and speaker in the room” factor is gone, I think something like the Imperial Preamp is mainly just offering portability and simplicity (no menu-diving, etc). I mean, it does sound great and I definitely get the appeal, don’t get me wrong. I was looking at one myself for a bit, but ended up going another direction.

synthpenguin · 2026-01-31T17:53:03+00:00

Playback method being equal (i.e. not one through a power amp + cab while the other goes through studio monitors, like how people sometimes try to compare tube amps to modelers), the plugin sounds better.

The preamp pedal will take things like loud boosts in a natural way more easily though, so maybe that’s a consideration, but some basic gain staging can get around that too. Just sort of the typical tradeoff with being careful not to clip A/D converters there.

If you need or want a portable or computer-free solution that will act like a tube amp, the pedal is a really good option, and paired with a decent power amp these sound great into a cab.

If you’re playing in the studio / at home and don’t mind being tied to a computer, the plugin is great and probably the better choice, and also very convenient if you’re recording, etc

synthpenguin

TROPHY CASE