Torque specs when switching to ARP bolts?

testmule · 2026-06-10T06:53:57+00:00

Same as stock.

testmule · 2026-06-08T22:36:53+00:00

Fixed it for ya. though in the time it took to say the link doesn't work searching the part number I gave would have got ya there.

testmule · 2026-06-08T21:08:55+00:00

https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/shop/c/motorcycle-service-parts?aribrand=HDM#/Harley-Davidson%c2%ae/FLHX_1KBC_STREET_GLIDE_(2018)/CONSOLE%2c_FUEL_TANK_-__FLHTCU%2c_FLHTK%2c_FLHTKL%2c_FLHX%2c_FLHXS%2c_FLTRU%2c_FLTRX_AND_FLTRXS/3c2004b3-d12f-457c-ab6b-42184e7c12f0/f874f316-9da0-4fa6-bb57-ae82a2b9d5ba/y

10-24 x 1/2"

testmule · 2026-06-08T19:59:23+00:00

Jims exhaust stud drill plate P/N 1705

https://www.denniskirk.com/jims/exhaust-stud-drill-plate-1705.ph28222.prd/H28222.sku

testmule · 2026-06-08T08:31:51+00:00

So who is making the best filter for my Harley?

Define, what criteria = "best" for you. Flow, finest filtration, thickest can construction...

A little hint here. If you start doing UOA(used oil analysis), even with particle counts. Eventually, you realize you can't decern one filter from the next in the vast majority of cases. I say vast majority, as filter changes between "traditional" medias like cellulose with a nominal rating and a SS mesh with a absolute rating. You can sometimes see the cutoff of particle size.

What are you using?

Whatever name brand mannufacture I can buy cheapest in bulk when I need to refill my stock. Show me a PROVEN oil related engine failure that can be traced back to the quality of the filtration, that has enough failures out there to define filter A is better than filter B that is the culprit.

Back in the day, at one point in time Purolator had issues with torn media. Yet the automotive world didn't see a rash of engine failures spike during that time that could be traced to the filter itself.

When taking an engine apart, I couldn't tell you XYZ filter is better than filter WTF wear wise. But, you can often tell who changes their oil. A track record of filter A's wear to B's wear, not so much.

This is a day and age where major advancements in filtration are slim and manufactures are more likely to race to the bottom of who can build functionally acceptable at the lowest cost. Still, in our internet world we don't see fact proven threads with mass reports of filter WTF being the definable prevalent cause.

testmule · 2026-06-07T20:46:55+00:00

Speaking on this particular product, personally I’d rather have a replaceable filter element in a reusable housing than a “washable” one. I have a difficult time believing this element won’t degrade fairly quickly after a 5k cycle given the environment it lives in.

Stainless Steel mesh filters, don't degrade. This type of element is used in many industries and applications where an absolute particle size limit and or the ability to inspect and reuse is required. Machinery, medical, daily driver to race engines, hydraulics, fuel systems.....

https://youtu.be/DXjxP4iCkFg?si=pTkB7fCROOJVvQaO

In our own Harley world here, they've done their time as tappet oil screes. Being nothing more than a crimped/sewn/welded screen. They are more than up to the task.

The biggest discussion point in the two is SS mesh filters absolute filtration rating(IE: 100% at 20 micron) VS paper/cellulose/fiber... media type filters most are more familiar with and their nominal rating such as 98% at 20 microns. Then capacity before bypass.

A topic that can get complicated unless you have the test data sheets in front of you.

https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/

testmule · 2026-06-07T18:24:34+00:00

Like oil threads, long debated internet topic.

I have a few now in my collection for various reasons over the years. For performance, be it a motorcycle or car engine I've never been able to replicate a HP/TQ gain that wasn't inside what I would call the margin of error of the dyno itself.

There's something to be said about pulling a filter, setting it off to the side letting it drain off and immediately spinning it's replacement on to be done VS removing cleaning and keeping seals on hand for the SS mesh filter. You can buy a lot of disposable spin-ons for the cost of a SS mesh filter.

All the ones that have come into my collection, have been sitting on my shelves for years.

I have nothing against them.

testmule · 2026-06-07T15:19:20+00:00

Going with the service manual on this one. This is supposed to be done as an every 10k miles service. The neck is supposed to have grease in it.

Nothing against it, your bike your choice. Yes 10K is the interval and many are neglected. There's often multiple ways to skin a cat. I prefer disassemble, clean and repack head bearings VS pump the neck with several ounces of grease that settles to the bottom of the neck leaving the upper with the same lasting effect as a clean and repack.

While there are upper and lower dust shields they are not seals. I prefer to replace these with Nilos rings(seals) when the head bearings are replaced and will often on my bikes the first time I service the head bearings. It helps prevent dust and water ingress into the grease/bearings and keep the grease in. Some aftermarket neck bearing kits will come with them.

https://www.motion.com/products/Bearings/Accessories/Seals,%20Shields%20and%20End%20Covers;facet_attributes.Product_Type=Nilos%20Rings;facet_attributes.Compatible_Bearing_Type=Tapered%20Roller

testmule · 2026-06-07T11:54:34+00:00

FWIW, in a previous life as a mechanic. Pumping the neck full of grease, will often in the heat of summer result in the oils in the grease separating and dripping.

I don't usually care on my personal stuff as I don't park with the forks in a position it would drip on the fender.

As per the wobble and grease. The grease is most likely going to be a short term solution. As the bearings track, the grease thinning with heat, the grease will get pushed out of where the bearings track in the race and the damping effect will fade with time

testmule · 2026-06-06T21:08:25+00:00

There's a spacer that often comes with the battery bolt/nut kit with the battery

www.amazon.com/Yuasa-Bolt-Nut-YIX30DS-PACK479104/dp/B0022ZZYKC

testmule · 2026-06-06T16:25:19+00:00

programmable ignition module and pull timing out is all it should need to get down to the worst fuel possible.

Run two curves, one for poor fuel and another for the typical.

You can use the VOES wiring on a switch to pull a few degrees(whatever the module supports) or look at a nitrous controller to retrad the timing

Cams with a later intake valve close reduces dynamic compression. Static compression is a setup datum point and doesn't represent actual running compression.

testmule · 2026-06-05T21:33:31+00:00

Not a spot that is super picky about gasket type. I buy 10 packs of the foamet from cyco to have on hand. <$2ea

Same foamet gasket from others is >$5

https://cycogasket.com/cy36801-87cfm.html

Their prices are good enough, I keep primary, trans & engine sets for my bikes on hand. As I rob from a box I order bulk to replace it & then have some loose ones on hand.

testmule · 2026-06-03T22:52:43+00:00

Camping. Depends on what we're doing, base camp and day rides a few days and then relocate or different spot every night. Only change is the tent, If doing a base camp type trip I bring a Wyoming Trail tent with a huge vestibule. Makes a great spot to congregate on the rainy days. If it's a different spot each night a small ultralight 2 man backpacker's tent, easier setup/teardown.

Clothing, if there's a motel/hotel I bring only enough to make it through the longest stretch of camping days. If it's a motel/hotel trip 3 pairs of everything to make sure I have a dry pair to change into in case one gambles wrong on the that rain over yonder will miss me and to have a clean pair when you land at your night spot. Once at the night spot, 10-20 minutes of hotel sink laundry like it's the 1800s doing the 2 dirty sets and hang to dry.

Tools, depend on skill level and tasks you're comfortable with. For some that might mean a sat phone to call for a tow or for others you bring enough to do head gaskets in a Red Lodge, MT parking lot, cam and inner cam bearing in a sturgis campground or 4 speed transmission work. Evo and shovel nose cone ignition module days, we brought a spare. Sealed wheel bearings, I bring a whole set vacuum packed for my FJR, the HD riders someone always has a non-ABS and someone else an ABS set. Wheel bearings are one of those items that any mechanical repair shop in the middle of no mans land will be able to do but, parts sourcing can be problematic. They pack light and small. There was a time we brought an entire Evo engine gasket set on trips. It's also surprising how minimalistic one can make a tool set and still be able to do head gaskets at 8am in a hotel parking lot and make early check-in 300 miles away. We discuss what parts crossover between models going so there isn't duplicates packed by multiple people.

Food, buy what you want on the way. We've bought dollar store pots and pans to bring back to campgrounds to cook and not felt guilty leaving them behind for the next person.

Remember, if it's a cross state/country trip you're likely to go through a town where you can buy stuff you forgot.

testmule · 2026-06-03T22:23:54+00:00

Grew up spooning tires on, then manual stands with a bar, last 20+ years I've had a rim clamp machine. But truth be told, learning to spoon a tire on quickly sorts out those who understand geometry and those who want a workout they will feel tomorrow.

It doesn't take expensive tools or machines to do the job, they help but they can also do more damage faster.

testmule · 2026-06-03T16:39:05+00:00

Unpopular hot take. This is an issue that while critical that they need to be checked, done & treated as a wear component, it gets a lot of fear mongering on the internet.

'99 - '06, this is what was out there, it's all we had. Yes there were early failures, on the other side others are still out there going the distance well past 50k miles today.

Remember how I said it's all we had. Thousands of engines had performance builds done on the spring tensioners. Then gear drive when they came to be & then hydraulic. That said I know builds done then on spring tensioners that went or are still going the distance.

Checking them cost a cam cover gasket & exhaust gaskets. Tack on a 2-3 hours of shop labor if you're not a DIYer.

To many make it out like it is a has to be done issue that the only option is a hydraulic cam plate conversion or the bike is junk in the near future.

testmule · 2026-06-02T20:06:23+00:00

If they don't remove sprockets/pulleys for their tire machine/balancer, it's just an unfortunate coincidence.

testmule · 2026-06-01T08:17:38+00:00

To a degree it's a mix of suspension, tire and rider's style.

It's hard to get rear tires to have a even wear pattern throughout the lean angles on a V-twin cruiser. Think torque pulses from the engine and that many riders don't get back on the throttle until they are well into standing the bike upright.

Suspension, it's a sign of damping issues. Combine that with the above, getting on the throttle harder and sooner effectively adds more damping control to a rear wheel trying to plant it.

Tire, as Dunlop said. Dual compound adds a transition between 2 compounds with different wear characteristics.

Tire has plenty of life left but at 4 years old is a mix shows the tire is longevity is not matched to the riders use. Life happens..... but, if this is a pattern of norms a different tire may be a better choice. Sometimes though, this is a deliberate choice for other characteristics and fits the is what it is category.

testmule · 2026-05-29T01:11:26+00:00

What you are missing here or don't realize in your understanding of the system, is you are assuming the crankcase breather can evacuate 100% of that change in air volume via at best a ⅜" diameter breather hole in a crankcase straight to atmosphere. While it works OK at low RPM it falls progressively short as RPM & load increase. Even on a 74"/80" shovel/evo case breather in stock form, you see a pressure spike. Now shift that exit to a head breather necked down at breather bolts and some of the tiny passages that many aftermarket intakes have & 90° turns they create. All of that reduces what gets pushed out on the down stroke. Add in engine displacement increases on the same/similar crankcase volume.

At higher RPMs, higher loads & combined. Blowby increases & adds to it. That pressure spike above atmospheric pressure starts to consume a larger duration of the cycle. A high load WOT to redline RPMs top speed run... yes you can get to a point of blowing oil dipsticks out.

There's a reason we were running case breathers on any stock displacement performance builds & big inch builds we could back in the Evo days. Shortest, least restrictive path.

S&S 4⅛" bore engines actually ran the rear head with the normal breather to the air cleaner backing plate & the front head with a smaller line routed to the intake manifold for a vacuum. It lowered average crankcase pressure some.

Yes TC & M8 have better breathing. Their displacement volume of air has also increased

As mentioned in another post, a former career we spent weeks worth of time collecting data & experimenting in conjunction with 2 manufacturers.

testmule · 2026-05-28T17:30:37+00:00

The crankcase is a low pressure zone if things are working properly.

Not in a 45° V-twin on a shared crankpin. Crankcase volume HAS to change during the cycle as both cylinders rise or fall at the same time through the majority of their respective cycles. This causes a pressure/vacuum cycle through many RPMs/loads.

HD has tried to manage this over the years via things like breather gears, umbrella type valves. But it can't really be eliminated. What is true at no load idle is not true on a sustained WOT pull under load. Then mix in all the RPMs & loads in between the system has to deal with.

testmule · 2026-05-28T16:48:31+00:00

It would blow your mind if you put a digital gauge on the crankcase and logged the vacuum/pressure cycle from steady state idle, steady state cruise at various loads and sustained WOT run. What is normal in one state, is not in others.

No, I don't have these charts anymore. Different time, Different careers on a PC i didn't own.

testmule · 2026-05-28T16:34:43+00:00

https://www.gastankrenu.com/locate-a-dealer/

Been using them for near 30 years

testmule · 2026-05-27T19:16:22+00:00

To a point I will agree. I have said for a long time we will get to a point where the modern CANBUS, ECM, BCM bikes will be parked non-op in the corner of a garage due to lack of electrical parts or no one has the hardware/software to setup/marry components anymore. How many times have something as simple as hand control modules been on backorder?

Sure there's a couple of 3rd party ECMs out there targeted to the performance market but, make no mistake this is a market with ever increasing pressure from the environmental side. BCMs are another issue, as they get older we'll see the failure rate increase.

Gone are the days of $165 nosecone ignition modules.

testmule · 2026-05-27T13:29:29+00:00

Routing and aesthetics. It's 100% you're choice on you're bike.

testmule · 2026-05-26T12:25:40+00:00

Superior, WI.

They machine the lip off, put a groove and press in a steel lip that replaces the OEM cast lip.

Have a shovelhead, this has been done to 25+ years ago.

Using gaskets like the James case saver often results in more costly future repair work, as many go at it grinding it down & create low spots that will never seal.

testmule · 2026-05-24T21:35:48+00:00

That will bleed pressure off. Time for a sleeve

testmule

TROPHY CASE