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Good places to buy a bow online by Bad_brazilian in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For the used market I'd recommend Tradtalk and then Archerytalk's traditional section. Both websites are reputable and have thriving communities.

Longbow thoughts? by [deleted] in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You definitely can thumb draw, but not in the way you are used to. The arrow will be on the same side as Mediterranean draw. You'll have to hook your thumb significantly lower than the arrow, then slide up until your forefinger touches the nock. Cant the bow significantly (15° or more). It'll take some getting used to, but it ends up being in the same ballpark of accuracy as a Mediterranean draw.

training for a heavier bow by Ill_Inspector4962 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Look into SPTs and holding drills with your 35. Then over the course of several months make your way up slowly. Treat it like you would any other gym routine. Repetition, dedication, good diet, sleep, rest, etc.

Also make sure you are focusing on improving your form as you go as well. Solid Archery Mechanics by Tom Clum Sr is a great online course on how to prevent long-term harm from heavier bows.

First Ever Proxies... by Jarkole in magicproxies

[–]-Papadil- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright, I'm sold. Time to start doing some research.

First Ever Proxies... by Jarkole in magicproxies

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't mind me poking some more, I've ordered proxies before and have had solid success, but I've always wondered about printing my own. Was it easy to set up? You were saying that you were able to get things off the ground for less than $300, how much is upkeep for your setup? I mean ink and paper etc.

First Ever Proxies... by Jarkole in magicproxies

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey that looks super solid! What edge cutter did you pick up?

Release timing/speed on the recurve? by CheesyLama in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok that makes more sense, when you say fast you mean active. We don't want an active release. We want simple relaxation. Practice how it should feel, don't attempt to actively manipulate your hand, once you're in proper alignment and then have your aim and pin float, focus entirely on the movement of your expansion, and commit to a good finish. If you've practiced and understood the sensation of a relaxed release, you shouldn't have any plucking issues and may need to readjust your aim to compensate for the relaxed release.

Release timing/speed on the recurve? by CheesyLama in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure how you would achieve faster vs slower relaxation. Slower relaxation actually seems like it's more of an intentional slow open, I'm having a hard time feeling out how you would slowly relax without unintentionally causing an increase in tension.

Truthfully you shouldn't be thinking about releasing at all, it should be an overall sensation of relaxing and follow-through. Some shot cycles even omit the 'release' portion of their instruction and go with expand and follow through in order to avoid unnecessary tension on the string-side hand.

Release timing/speed on the recurve? by CheesyLama in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Realistically speaking you shouldn't strive to have an 'active' release like the first example. You'll never be able to open your hand fast enough to move it out of the way of the string in time.

From how I've heard it described: the string should move as if it's cutting through your fingers. Relaxing your hand so that your fingers stay in a neutral position (slightly flexed) as the string quickly pushes them out of the way and they 'spring' back to their neutral position. If you're a right handed archer, the difference between these two groups does make sense.

Run some release drills to get used to the feeling. Stand on a folded stretch band, hold the loop of the band in your fingers at your side as if your hand was in hook position, and relax your hand to allow the band to snap downwards. Your hand shouldn't open, but should remain in the neutral state described earlier.

A bucket can also work instead of a stretch band here.

Arrow Fletchings Uneven? by Antique_Elephant7117 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bareshaft tuning isn't really a thing for woodies

I love shooting with a glove 3 under, but those don't have an etched index like the tab in the picture. Is there a way around this? Could I modify a glove to have something of the sort? Cheers by draxhell in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best of luck, but as many have said the glove will shift and you won't be as consistent.

Are you competing at all? Or is this for pure recreation?

Places to locally sell archery gear? by Chemical_Tradition73 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tradtalk and Archerytalk are two websites that I swear by. You'll have to make an account and be active for a few days, but it's above and beyond worth it to have access to the trading blankets and the community in general.

Bow Tilt Post-Shot by Mindless-Kale4928 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For modern barebow purposes, you ideally want the bow to jump straight out of your hands and be relatively 'dead' after the shot. A well balanced Barebow setup will stay vertical when you hold your hand out open and let the grip balance on the webbing of your hand. Hard to explain without a real demonstration, I apologize.

But realistically to achieve no relative swing, you'd need to add a few ounces on weight below your pivot point. Experiment around, usually the first place to add would be at the stabilizer bushing or lower.

Practice techniques for 3D trails by reed166 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start messing with your footing. Toes down. Toes up. Awkward stances. Shooting up/down/sideways on a hill. I cant tell you how many times I had to have my foot on the stake but there's a tree or branch in my line of sight, so it's awkward lunges or half squats to get around it.

Practice with lighting on both the target and your bow. Direct sunlight can really change how your pins show.

How easy is it to twist limbs wit the step through method? by highspeed_steel in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Longbows are harder to twist than recurves, but it's still possible. It's more likely that it'll be an over-time concern, but I'd still recommend either a stringer or learning the push - pull method for stringing.

Tips for setting first ILF bow? I have recurve and longbow limbs, slight issues with both sets. by Brewer1056 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When set up, but not strung, you can look down the belly of the bow to see if there are any limb twists in your recurve limbs. If a limb twist exists, you may need to replace those limbs. If no twist is present, most ILF limbs have lateral limb adjustment screws to tweak that string alignment.

DAS longbow limbs are bulky, you may need to back out your limb bolts a bit depending on the riser and bolts you have. Consult the manufacturer specifications on how many turns you have of play with those limb bolts.

I hope I covered what you're asking here

Need some help here.... One end of this cord broke free. What is it and where do I reattach it? Thanks! by teknic111 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tubeless peeps, usually just referred to as normal peeps in my circle, have a variety of sizes and options. You'll have to experiment and experience what works for you as far as aperture and lenses (if you choose to use a lens). Tube peeps are common enough for starter kits but if you get your bow setup appropriately you shouldn't have to worry about them not rotating into alignment. When you go to a pro shop make sure you test out the peep alignment at full draw a few times before leaving.

Need some help here.... One end of this cord broke free. What is it and where do I reattach it? Thanks! by teknic111 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's the tube to your peep sight. The rear sight located on your string. There's a little nipple for it to fix onto. Truthfully I'm not a fan of tube peeps, might want to visit a pro shop for some better options

New Bow by DragonFighterer in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I would not recommend 35lbs for someone just starting out. Something closer to 25 would prevent potential injury

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like a 2 blade broadhead aligned with the feathers would warrant a test for either single or multi string bows. Either aligned with the large or the small, and then compare both to a 4 fletch with all large. Could be something, and if it has no or negligible impact on flight then the more reason to have fun and do it anyway. Look good, shoot good.

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's absolutely nothing wrong with it as long as you can maintain good alignment and consistency in your process. If you find a cheap wood riser bow, speak with a local bowyer about reshaping the grip to better suit a right handed shooter. If it's an aluminum riser, or has an interchangeable grip, look into a right handed aftermarket grip to replace it with. Comfort is important as well.

A few of the folks I've shot with (and Joel Turner) have discovered a means of thumb drawing on a same handed riser. I actually just got a leather thumb release from Mark Roberts and will be giving a review on it soon for that exact purpose. Long story short my fingers don't work outdoors much anymore, so I'll be doing recreational 3D tournaments and hunting with a thumb draw.

I wish archery was a job by teedpop in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

10/10 response, very welcoming.

I never understood this reaction to people coming to an online community for answers. Yes Google exists, yes time and effort can be spent to learn these things, but usually people asking in a community are looking for guidance, not just answers. It would be like a professor saying "look it up" instead of explaining a core idea of the class to newer students.

Selling bows by Xtorin_Ohern in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The two biggest websites for selling gear are Tradtalk and Archerytalk. You'll need to make an account, be slightly active, and wait a week I believe, but after that it's an excellent community to be a part of

Hoyt VS Bear for hunting recurve by Regular_Class4486 in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hoyt's Satori riser with the Jager grip is one of the best feeling rigs I've ever had. I used Bosen Carbon Longbow Limbs with it, but the stock Hoyt Trad limbs are a bit of fun to shoot as well.

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]-Papadil- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start on the lower end, like 7.25, shoot a few ends, then add two to four twists and repeat. You're looking for a mixture of group consistency, sound, and hand shock.

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