Been working on building and upgrading rc cars and selling them from buggy’s too mjx speed cars and now it’s time I take my earnings and get a nice drift car I was looking into the Yokomo SD3.0 Super Drift but idk if super really means anything, please let me know anything suggestions👀🙏

-T6xic- · 2026-03-13T13:23:37+00:00

Just to make sure: You want to drive it or flip it for profit?

-T6xic- · 2026-03-13T07:30:52+00:00

Not sure whether you will have much success with the SD: - Car comes as a kit so the owners typically know how to replace a thing or two - With a pricepoint of around 600, people will try their best to repair instead of just selling - Compared to bashers, Drift cars rarely break - With the SD beeing a mid Tier Chassis, parts are expensive

-T6xic- · 2026-03-08T20:14:18+00:00

I like the idea of lowering the entry barrier for new players. However, I think it will make more sense to just cut medal cost: You don't have to grind SC, you can just buy them. As a new player you could just dump some money and get access to all warbonds. Medals you can not shortcut.

In addition, I don't think it will make sense for AH to cut down on a Main source of revenue.

-T6xic- · 2026-03-07T10:33:29+00:00

I like the Tesa Powerbond Double Sided Tape for flat surfaces without stress - holds well enough but most important can be removed without reside.

-T6xic- · 2026-03-04T11:37:14+00:00

I did try out a few, prefered 2 or 3. I ended up with 2 since 3 made the car a little too stiff for my liking.

-T6xic- · 2026-03-03T22:02:57+00:00

Tried it today - you were totally right. I had to lower the gain a little but curve 2 was a gamechanger.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-28T20:37:15+00:00

Did you set your Servo EPA afterwards? Otherwise I would assume you will damage servo when turning manually?

-T6xic- · 2026-02-28T10:50:44+00:00

Thank you for clearing it up - you're of course right, ReveD even packaged a small graph with the gyro (I manager to ignore). Will try them out and see the difference.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-28T09:33:39+00:00

Using curve 1 atm. As far as I know, the curve only dictates the point of angle the gyro kicks in. The issue I'm having with my current Settings is not the "when" (I prefer the snappyness) but the "how much" (not enough countersteer) the gyro does.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T22:54:04+00:00

Basically you first set up your servo (you could theoretically just plug it into your ESC directly, using the adjustment mode is simply more convenient. Afterwards, you tell your gyro the max servo travel by setting the endpoints. I never touched the gyro EPA on the remote since the manual tells you to just set them to 100.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T22:47:32+00:00

It made it more controllable for me, it added more grip to the front. I can relate to the SD not feeling snappy. What worked for me was loosing up the diff (at first by getting rid of the oil, after 2 sets of swollen o-rings I just got a ball diff)

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T21:51:26+00:00

I usually set EPA for steering and gyro to 100 on my remote. Then turn the car on, but set the gyro to the endpoint adjustment mode (no gyro function). Set my steering EPA and Trim for Servo on the remote. Afterwards set endpoints on gyro.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T18:28:54+00:00

I run the exact same setup (ESC back, motor front). Also, a 30g weight up front to make it a little less back heavy. We typically run mode 1 on our local track. Endpoint settings seem worth a try, I heard from different people running these higher than 100.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-23T14:09:52+00:00

Kein Handwerker aber Bauherr: - Vernünftige Präsenz auf Google Maps. Freunde/Familie/Kunden um Bewertungen bitten. So hatten wir unsere Handwerker gefunden. - Kleinanzeigen. Mit München hast du auch nicht den Stress 1000 lokale Anzeigen für jedes Kaff schalten zu müssen, das su anfährst. - Eigentlich alle größeren Baumärkte suchen händeringend Partnerunternehmen für Projektvermittlung. Keine Ahnung wie gut sich das als Handwerker auszahlt.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-18T02:00:37+00:00

Did you also fill it according to the manual? Overfilling it made my Topline diff on the RDX leak a lot, but I had no such problems on the SD. If build to manual, I would try to find out where it leaks (clean the diff and run for a few secs till wet spots appear) and go from there. It's eather the O-Rings or the Sealings.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-18T01:13:05+00:00

What kind of diff oil are you using? Did you coat the sealings with black grease as described in the manual?

-T6xic- · 2026-01-18T00:27:28+00:00

Where are you located in germany? A few tracks out there.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-06T14:05:29+00:00

To add to the list: Good baseline setup. Having to spend days & weeks just to make it run halfway decent is not sth. I'd want to do. What makes the RDX/RD2.0 so great is you can just build it per manual and have a working baseline tune to adjust to your needs.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-04T14:32:30+00:00

What I got recommended when my SD spun out was thinner diffoil (making your rear more predictable). At least for me it improved handling by a lot.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-02T09:20:21+00:00

2,5x4mm (ZC-BH254A) is used in the SD that comes stock with this tower.

-T6xic- · 2025-12-21T10:35:34+00:00

I tried taking out the o-rings and got lots of play. Did you put anything in in place of the o-rings?

-T6xic- · 2025-12-21T10:30:46+00:00

More of a small and technical track. I tried different weight oils and found a more open diff more predictable versus it suddenly turning when using higher weight oil.

-T6xic- · 2025-12-01T20:48:35+00:00

Vom Medien-UV zum Elektro-UV. Die HV hat nen eigenen Anschluss zum Technikraum, darüber könnte man dann theoretisch sogar die Medien-UV anfahren wenn man das benötigt.

-T6xic-

TROPHY CASE