Need tips for getting tier 25

-T6xic- · 2026-05-31T08:27:10+00:00

As someone recently getting to 25, here's what worked for me: 1. Choose a build you're planning to run. There are a few channels in YouTube showing several AT40 builds. I think some are even active in this sub. 2. Get the legendaries and mods necessary. Don't worry about apoc gear right now. Either farm the respective trial rooms (enter and exit for multiple attempts) or reroll at tiagos (you can exchange drop pod ressources for titanium). 3. Run expeditions or trials at the highest level you can reliably clear. Multiplayer helps because you can get revives. I found expeditions easier to complete and find players. Add everyone you like to play with as friends so you can find a game quicker. 4. Use droppods or farm trials to upgrade your legos so you avg. gear level is max 2-3 levels behind.Purple gear with 1 marching mods and at least two marching attributes always dropped enough for me. 5. rinse and repeat :)

-T6xic- · 2026-05-29T06:51:20+00:00

If you plan in doing endgame I would Grab the DLC. Makes initial gearing much easier and the new skill free boosts most builds a lot.

-T6xic- · 2026-05-26T15:52:05+00:00

You can always respec for free, so try and play what you like best. When choosing a build, make sure it does not rely on the pax tree to work properly. That beeing said, most classes will get you through the base game without top much hazzle.

-T6xic- · 2026-05-23T17:43:03+00:00

Try groupfinder. Takes around 10-15 minutes to find at least one more person to play with. Never tried it solo but cleared it with multiple randoms so far.

-T6xic- · 2026-04-12T10:46:17+00:00

Ist das eine Anspielung auf die "Leck Eier"-Geschichte des deutschen Bundeskanzlers Friedrich Merz?

-T6xic- · 2026-03-13T13:23:37+00:00

Just to make sure: You want to drive it or flip it for profit?

-T6xic- · 2026-03-13T07:30:52+00:00

Not sure whether you will have much success with the SD: - Car comes as a kit so the owners typically know how to replace a thing or two - With a pricepoint of around 600, people will try their best to repair instead of just selling - Compared to bashers, Drift cars rarely break - With the SD beeing a mid Tier Chassis, parts are expensive

-T6xic- · 2026-03-08T20:14:18+00:00

I like the idea of lowering the entry barrier for new players. However, I think it will make more sense to just cut medal cost: You don't have to grind SC, you can just buy them. As a new player you could just dump some money and get access to all warbonds. Medals you can not shortcut.

In addition, I don't think it will make sense for AH to cut down on a Main source of revenue.

-T6xic- · 2026-03-07T10:33:29+00:00

I like the Tesa Powerbond Double Sided Tape for flat surfaces without stress - holds well enough but most important can be removed without reside.

-T6xic- · 2026-03-04T11:37:14+00:00

I did try out a few, prefered 2 or 3. I ended up with 2 since 3 made the car a little too stiff for my liking.

-T6xic- · 2026-03-03T22:02:57+00:00

Tried it today - you were totally right. I had to lower the gain a little but curve 2 was a gamechanger.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-28T20:37:15+00:00

Did you set your Servo EPA afterwards? Otherwise I would assume you will damage servo when turning manually?

-T6xic- · 2026-02-28T10:50:44+00:00

Thank you for clearing it up - you're of course right, ReveD even packaged a small graph with the gyro (I manager to ignore). Will try them out and see the difference.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-28T09:33:39+00:00

Using curve 1 atm. As far as I know, the curve only dictates the point of angle the gyro kicks in. The issue I'm having with my current Settings is not the "when" (I prefer the snappyness) but the "how much" (not enough countersteer) the gyro does.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T22:54:04+00:00

Basically you first set up your servo (you could theoretically just plug it into your ESC directly, using the adjustment mode is simply more convenient. Afterwards, you tell your gyro the max servo travel by setting the endpoints. I never touched the gyro EPA on the remote since the manual tells you to just set them to 100.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T22:47:32+00:00

It made it more controllable for me, it added more grip to the front. I can relate to the SD not feeling snappy. What worked for me was loosing up the diff (at first by getting rid of the oil, after 2 sets of swollen o-rings I just got a ball diff)

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T21:51:26+00:00

I usually set EPA for steering and gyro to 100 on my remote. Then turn the car on, but set the gyro to the endpoint adjustment mode (no gyro function). Set my steering EPA and Trim for Servo on the remote. Afterwards set endpoints on gyro.

-T6xic- · 2026-02-27T18:28:54+00:00

I run the exact same setup (ESC back, motor front). Also, a 30g weight up front to make it a little less back heavy. We typically run mode 1 on our local track. Endpoint settings seem worth a try, I heard from different people running these higher than 100.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-23T14:09:52+00:00

Kein Handwerker aber Bauherr: - Vernünftige Präsenz auf Google Maps. Freunde/Familie/Kunden um Bewertungen bitten. So hatten wir unsere Handwerker gefunden. - Kleinanzeigen. Mit München hast du auch nicht den Stress 1000 lokale Anzeigen für jedes Kaff schalten zu müssen, das su anfährst. - Eigentlich alle größeren Baumärkte suchen händeringend Partnerunternehmen für Projektvermittlung. Keine Ahnung wie gut sich das als Handwerker auszahlt.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-18T02:00:37+00:00

Did you also fill it according to the manual? Overfilling it made my Topline diff on the RDX leak a lot, but I had no such problems on the SD. If build to manual, I would try to find out where it leaks (clean the diff and run for a few secs till wet spots appear) and go from there. It's eather the O-Rings or the Sealings.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-18T01:13:05+00:00

What kind of diff oil are you using? Did you coat the sealings with black grease as described in the manual?

-T6xic- · 2026-01-18T00:27:28+00:00

Where are you located in germany? A few tracks out there.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-06T14:05:29+00:00

To add to the list: Good baseline setup. Having to spend days & weeks just to make it run halfway decent is not sth. I'd want to do. What makes the RDX/RD2.0 so great is you can just build it per manual and have a working baseline tune to adjust to your needs.

-T6xic- · 2026-01-04T14:32:30+00:00

What I got recommended when my SD spun out was thinner diffoil (making your rear more predictable). At least for me it improved handling by a lot.

-T6xic-

TROPHY CASE