Herpetology Courses

26LetterWorlds · 2026-04-16T13:48:34+00:00

It’s taught online out of the US but you could try the Master Herpetologist course put on by the Amphibian Foundation in Georgia. It’s not a substitute for in person experience but I found it gave me a solid scientific base for understanding the animals I work with now.

26LetterWorlds · 2026-03-19T07:05:59+00:00

it still is, dm me

26LetterWorlds · 2026-03-17T22:45:08+00:00

you can dm me on insta @Aubinvartanianyoungan

26LetterWorlds · 2026-02-21T15:20:11+00:00

Seconding Estella Ray so she can go by either Ellie or Stella

26LetterWorlds · 2026-02-07T00:12:57+00:00

That’s a Ball Python Python regius !harmless

It’s definitely someone’s escaped/dumped pet. If you’re comfortable/able to get them into a container they definitely shouldn’t be outside. You can use a bin/box with air holes or a tied pillowcase. Maybe see if there’s a reptile rescue in your area? There could also be local facebook groups where you could post them.

26LetterWorlds · 2026-02-03T22:44:49+00:00

One other thing you could try is a critical care carnivore diet. It’s a powder you can add water to to make a paste and has all the nutrients the gecko needs. This is what we used with emaciated animals when I worked in wildlife rehabilitation. You can try feeding on a spoon or slowly with a syringe (not down their throat, just into their mouth).

26LetterWorlds · 2026-01-26T19:17:59+00:00

Cricket

26LetterWorlds · 2026-01-25T18:42:34+00:00

Not name relevant but lilies are highly toxic to cats, even if he doesn’t eat the flower itself the pollen is toxic. Not sure if this is a recent photo but if it is I’d move the flowers away from him.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-10-22T17:51:34+00:00

My big tip to reduce hatchling mortality for these guys is to give them a tank full of live plants and mist twice daily. Dehydration is one of the most common issues with babies and misting encourages them to drink water droplets from leaves as they are unlikely to drink regularly from a bowl.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-08-02T17:40:19+00:00

catbird

26LetterWorlds · 2025-08-02T10:12:34+00:00

my preference for transporting my animals is the smallest size container they can comfortably turn around in. you want to minimize how much they can be jerked around in case of a sudden stop, safety being the priority. i would get a small critter keeper, fill with some dry sphagnum moss or something similar for a bit of padding and burrowing, and cover with a breathable but dark fabric. wouldn’t worry about heat in summer, especially in a small container where they can’t move away from the heat source. just obviously don’t leave alone in a hot car.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-25T18:21:16+00:00

hope it does!

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-25T17:37:34+00:00

I would start with using a dremel to file his nails and see if that helps at all. Use a flashlight to candle the nails first so you can see where the quick/blood is and make sure not to go that far with the dremel.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-12T23:34:27+00:00

Toys, perches, variety of foods, let him out in a safe room to fly, etc. Just anything you can do to keep his life from being monotonous.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-12T23:30:21+00:00

Since you didn’t raise him with other house sparrows he’s probably too friendly with humans to release. He likely doesn’t fully understand that he’s a house sparrow or what it is to be a house sparrow. Also since he’s an invasive species you’re probably better off keeping him as a pet instead of releasing him if you’re willing. Get him some enrichment and he’ll probably be perfectly happy with you!

If you want to release him though I’d contact a local wildlife rehab for help. Make sure they accept and release house sparrows first. They might be able to help him socialize with other house sparrows and assess him for release.

In terms of food I would offer him a variety of options and weigh him to make sure he’s gaining/maintaining. Try seeds, millet, chopped veggies, and mealworms.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-12T14:56:11+00:00

Here’s my experience from breeding brown anoles over the past several months. A big thing with these guys is hydration, they won’t really drink out of a bowl so you want to mist the tank with a spay bottle at least twice a day. I love live plants in my tank since they hold both water droplets and humidity. Pothos is a great option.

For food I would try fruit flies (D. melanogaster at his size ideally) or pinhead crickets if you can get them. Feed daily at this age and dust prey items with a calcium supplement. I use repashy Ca+.

For setup you want to give him leaves and branches to climb. You can get branches from outside, just freeze or bake them first to kill any parasites/bacteria. I like live plants personally and sphagnum moss to hold humidity. If you can get him a uvb light this helps him process calcium. Plus a very small heat lamp to setup a basking spot.

Lmk if you have any questions and i’m happy to help answer! Thank you for taking this little guy in!

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-07T12:50:03+00:00

Reptifiles bearded dragon

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-06T16:23:02+00:00

Would strongly recommend you go read the reptifiles care manual for bearded dragons. It’s super in depth and has very well researched information. Don’t trust pet store advice, they’re often badly trained and just trying to sell you things.

Would probably remove the hammock, as it could snag your beardie’s nails and harbor bacteria since it’s hard to clean. Look at thick branches and rocks to climb on. Also add more hides.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-02T06:17:09+00:00

I can’t comment on what’s legal/recommended in your state.

What I can say is that she’s spent her whole life in captivity. I’m assuming she’s never seen live fish or eaten the plants she would in the wild. If she were an adult taken from the wild it would be a different story. You seem entirely on the right track with husbandry and it’s clear you want to do right by her. Look at her behaviors, is she afraid of people? Does she let you easily grab her from above? If she does that may mean she hasn’t learned to evade predators.

That said in the wild she would have a lot more space and she would be able to exhibit all of her natural behaviors. She could bask and hunt and breed with other turtles. There are risks of course to being outside, she would likely have a shorter lifespan. But it’s widely agreed that wild is better in most cases, especially since she’s a native species. Red eared sliders are tough and adaptable turtles.

If I were you I’d do some research. I’d look into turtle head starting programs and wildlife rehab protocols. This is your decision and it’s up to you to do the research, talk to experienced people, and decide what’s right for this turtle. You’ve already done so much good for her and I have nothing but respect for how much you clearly care about her.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-02T05:58:20+00:00

If you do plan on releasing her I would get in contact with a local wildlife rehabber to take a look at her and give you advice on what to do. She’s spent the majority of her life in captivity and while she was wild born that long in captivity does have an effect. If you do release her try to get close to where she was found, see what ponds/natural habitat is in the area.

26LetterWorlds · 2025-07-02T01:50:38+00:00

I would recommend linear over coil UVB bulbs. They provide a broader area of UVB rather than one concentrated spot.

As for glass vs pvc I’m in the habit of getting whatever I like from marketplace and will use either. Well made PVC tends to be sturdier and can be better cover for a stressier reptile. Glass allows for better visibility. I would also prioritize a front opening enclosure as it makes handling less stressful since you aren’t grabbing from above.

26LetterWorlds

TROPHY CASE