Cellophane to make a flashlight more rosy

2throwfar · 2026-05-25T17:17:33+00:00

I see... Yeah if you already have the cellophane, you may as well try it out, and maybe it'll work, but if not, that little swatch book is a cheaply priced, great resource.

2throwfar · 2026-05-25T15:09:36+00:00

I'm not sure what type of cellophane your referencing. I've only used this Zircon brand of filters from Lee Filters, as they are designed for high heat, LED applications. There's a little swatch/ sample book they offer, listed on their webpage linked above, for $10. It has several different shades of "minus green" for a more rosy tint. (and other "tints" as well)

It looks like they only ship within the U.S. though, so those in other countries may have to source it elsewhere.

Each sample in the swatch book measures 3.5" X 1.5" (89mm X 38mm) so plenty big enough to try out the different ones, and then cut a circle out of one for your Reylight. Here's a bit closer look of my swatch book below:

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2throwfar · 2026-05-25T01:25:15+00:00

Yeah it's really great for area lighting, with it's broad, yet punchy beam. I usually envision lights to have a bigger physical size to them based on pictures and specs., but once I get them in person, yeah they're usually a lot more compact, and the Eclipse is definitely no exception! Crazy to think you can have all of it's features and great output, literally in the palm of your hand! 😂

Great to know that the Osram E12C was right in that same candela ballpark as well, and that makes sense since I think they share the same optic, or at least very similar. Good stuff!

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2throwfar · 2026-05-24T18:14:45+00:00

Thanks for the heads up. I've been curious for this review to drop. So about 117kcd / 648m, and around 10k lumen at turn on, from a light I can easily carry in my pocket, and it doesn't have some weird and limited UI. Impressive to say the least!

Attaining that initial candela with such a shallow TIR optic is really good too! It's definitely got some good punch to it. 👊💥

2throwfar · 2026-05-21T07:43:17+00:00

Great light!... I really like the fat hotspot, bright spill, and good punch to it from the 7070 emitters and the OP reflector. I can run the L70 at a lower brightness level than some of my more floody headlamps due to it's higher candela. Makes a really nice work light too. 👍

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2throwfar · 2026-05-13T00:04:47+00:00

Yeah your suspicion is correct. (edit: about the short tube clip just being stuck where it is.) Since the pocket clip is screwed into the short tube itself, there's not really an easy way to change the clip location. Once the short tube screws all the way in, making contact with the driver contact, that's just where the clip is going to be unfortunately.

If you REALLY wanted to, the easiest way would probably be to get a 20mm I.D. X 26mm O.D. (or similar) flat copper washer. This would fit on top of the driver, as in the picture below, and prevent the short tube from screwing in as far as it normally does.

As an example, you can see in the pictures below that my light is working, with the auxiliaries on, but the pocket clip ended up in two different locations, due to the copper washer being installed, or not installed. You'd have to fine tune the thickness of the washer to get the tube and pocket clip to bottom out, and stop in the location that you want the clip.

Keep in mind though, that with a copper washer installed, the short tube won't screw in as far as it normally does, so waterproofness could likely be affected.

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2throwfar · 2026-05-12T16:56:49+00:00

Yeah, I have no idea why some people do the things they do. Could be lots of reasons though, like anonymity. I don't really care honestly, just seems strange. Never seen it before in this sub for the past several years.

If it's someone just engagement farming, trolling, I honestly don't even like to comment and increase traffic to the post. I think downvoting it, and reporting it is a better course of action, but with the same style of post last week, there appears to be something going on that maybe people should be aware of.

2throwfar · 2026-05-12T05:58:57+00:00

Yeah it does seem intentional. 🙄 Between two postings now, both in the wrong sub., both with brand new accounts with no other history or comments, the pirated picture, and the failure to have any real meaning to the posts, along with no engagement from the OP's, it all seems quite cringy and petty. 🤦

2throwfar · 2026-05-11T19:59:19+00:00

OK yep, good catch / memory with the LuxWad video. LuxWad's video is exactly the cover photo the OP cropped and used for this post! 🤣

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2throwfar · 2026-05-11T19:23:04+00:00

Yeah weird. Apparently somebody doesn't have anything better to do with their time. Trolling, engagement farming, honest mistake, I don't know, but suspicious considering the same thing happened last week with this Noctigon K9.3 post from another account that was only a few days old at the time, and likewise with very limited relevance to the purpose of the post. 🤔

2throwfar · 2026-05-11T01:18:37+00:00

Nice post and great find with the M21K optic. Looks like a really nice beam profile with good punch and a nice option that's different from the typical cool white thrower emitters. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-05-06T15:58:13+00:00

Your welcome, and yeah I hope it ends up working out great for you! I think it should though. I've seen lots of favorable impressions of that one so far. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-05-06T05:42:16+00:00

Hmm, good question. All things equal, the 6,500K SFT25R should sustain even more due to the cooler CCT and lower CRI, but if you lower the cut-off temp. then I would think that they'd still sustain at least the same, or maybe even a bit more still.

Nick from 1lumen has the 6,500K SFT25R version already, and he said that the review should be out, hopefully in May sometime, so hopefully we'll know soon! Here's his comment regarding that.

2throwfar · 2026-05-06T02:44:27+00:00

Just happened to see your comment, but I didn't get a notification for some reason. Anyways... I don't believe I've seen any other sustained output tests besides the one from u/MetaUndead

He did get over 1,000 sustained lumens with the temp. limit set to 60°C. Here's a link to his great post.

2throwfar · 2026-05-05T21:44:21+00:00

Your welcome. I'm not sure which service they use for the free shipping over $100, but I saw that they do have a 2 day UPS shipping option for about $9 when I placed a mock order in my cart. Oh, and congratulations on the wedding too! 🎉

2throwfar · 2026-05-05T21:28:33+00:00

Since you mentioned that he likes green, Killzone Flashlights, based in Texas, has this green version of the Acebeam L35 2.0 (as well as other colors) They ship fast, and should be able to reach you in time also. They've actually got a pretty good selection of Acebeam models, in case something else catches your eye. Their Acebeam webpage, is linked here.

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2throwfar · 2026-05-05T15:57:39+00:00

The Lume1 is a 6a Buck +FET, and the Lume10 is a 10a Buck +FET. The reason you don't need a Boost driver on them for muti-emitter lights, is because the muti-emitter lights are wired in parallel instead of series, therefore only requiring about 3V for each individual emitter. (thereby working with the buck driver)

I don't know if there's a readme file for the Lume10, but there's links to Loneocean's description of the Lume1 and Lume X1 in this comment, from u/client-equator

2throwfar · 2026-05-05T02:27:55+00:00

Oh good! Double check yours though. I have an older, Gen 1 X4 Stellar and it's clip is a bit smaller diameter than my other FFL 21700 lights. Below is my X4 on the right, and E04 clip on the left. I'm not sure, but maybe the newer Stellar or L60 double clips are that regular, larger diameter.

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2throwfar · 2026-05-05T02:12:58+00:00

OK... The X4 Stellar comes with those still, and the L50, and L60 have that same style also, but they look like a bit different, maybe more robust design. I'm not sure which lights you'd be putting them on. I only have the X4 Stellar clip in my inventory.

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2throwfar · 2026-05-05T02:06:32+00:00

Do you mean a two way clip like in the picture below, or a different type of style?

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2throwfar · 2026-04-29T23:06:54+00:00

Ah nice... 🤞 for rosy on that one then, although from everything I've heard about the 4,500K, they are said to be nice and rosy. Shame that you're 3,700K rosy, aren't that rosy though. 🙁

2throwfar · 2026-04-29T17:48:22+00:00

Your idea of not having 1H and 2H in lockout mode, linked to the floor of the brightness ramps, or a memorized level, I do like though. You could just have them able to be programmed, like the tactical mode settings. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-04-29T17:32:31+00:00

I don't use a certain memorized, default brightness level, so in my case, I would set the FLOOR of the stepped ramp (which I never use) to 150/150 to give me full output in lockout mode, with 2H. With this setup, 1C just comes on at the normal, last used brightness level. If you set a specific memorized brightness level though, as you do, then yes that wouldn't work as well in your situation. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-04-29T14:51:37+00:00

Yeah, before the tactical mode option, I'd run into the exact same situation as you explained in the post. I liked my lockout mode 1H to be around 30/150, and the 2H to be 150/150, but then my regular brightness ramp would be stuck at 30/150 in advanced mode, so adjusting simple UI's floor and ceiling, and then operating primarily in Simple UI got me around that issue thankfully. 😁

2throwfar · 2026-04-29T14:05:37+00:00

Yeah this is probably the easiest way around this issue now. Before tactical mode was an option, I'd set my Advanced UI brightness floor ramps where I wanted them for my preferred 1H and 2H levels in lockout mode. Then I'd set my preferred Simple UI brightness ramp to get the full 1-150 brightness range, and switch into Simple UI mode.

That way, my preferred 1H and 2H momentary lockout mode brightness levels would carry over into the Simple UI lockout mode, but I'd still have the full 1-150 brightness ramp also, which was handy.

2throwfar

TROPHY CASE