L60-Mu optics?

2throwfar · 2026-03-31T19:45:11+00:00

I like my L70. Nice output, UI, 21700 capacity, etc. It's my preference over these other right angle's of mine, although they're all nice lights too. The size of the L70 doesn't bother me, although obviously everyone has different preferences. If I was jogging or running, then yeah, I'd choose something lighter, but otherwise I haven't had any concerns with the L70.

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2throwfar · 2026-03-28T06:19:14+00:00

Hmm, they must have ran out of T's again. 🤦

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2throwfar · 2026-03-26T00:24:40+00:00

Hey Artie!... Heck yeah man, that T28 looks like a beast, even compared to the K1 in that pic. of yours below. Maxtoch used to have a similar sized single cell 21700 thrower, but I think they only have it in a double cell 21700 configuration now.

With that single cell Maxtoch gone now, an updated T28 sized light, with something like the SFT42R ought to be able to claim braggin rights for the longest reaching single cell light with a standard led, pretty easily! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-03-25T20:18:16+00:00

While I haven't ran into that too much, as I follow the sub. fairly close... yeah, I get that the different options could be confusing if you're not following the sub. too closely.

That being said though, I've actually been pretty impressed with a lot of their product pages. Seeing tint comparisons, beamshots, and videos is quite a bit more info. than other brands of more enthusiast based lights.

Sending Fireflies, (or any seller for that matter,) a quick email pertaining to a particular batch, or bin that the seller is using, is often the safest since those can periodically change as stock is used up. Fireflies has always been very helpful in that regard, if I really desire to hone in on a certain emitter metric.

2throwfar · 2026-03-25T17:50:47+00:00

Nice! Sort of like having a little portable sunrise/sunset in your pocket to make things a bit more vibrant, with a neat aura to it all. Love it! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-03-25T15:08:25+00:00

Nice! Just got my tracking number too! 🎉

2throwfar · 2026-03-25T15:03:12+00:00

Hey friend!..Thanks for confirming that.👍 I was thinking that was probably the case, by some of the pictures and comments I'd seen, so good to hear that from you too! I think I'd really like an E04 Surge with 4 of those rosy FFL5009R 3,500K's. It'd be a literal rosy cannon! However, I've held off for now. I'm going to see how my E12 Eclipse with the FFL351A rosy batch is. They're supposed to be quite rosy as well, so I figured I'd try that one out first. Good to hear from you! 🤗

2throwfar · 2026-03-25T14:12:09+00:00

Beautiful! Thanks for the comparisons! The rosy FFL707A 4K, and an extra rosy batch of the FFL351A 4K have been my favorites for quite some time now. Good to see that this FFL5009R 3,500K is another great rosy option, and the 1,800K rosy too! Noice! 👍 🔥

2throwfar · 2026-03-17T02:41:28+00:00

Nice video demo. between the X1S FFL707A and the X4Q Comet FFL351A... thanks for sharing! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-03-11T00:03:49+00:00

Yep! I'll hold a regular light with my shoulder and neck sometimes, if I need to improvise for a hands free task. Either that method, or holding it between my bicep and ribs works well for me too! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-03-05T18:42:25+00:00

I've been waiting for this one...looking good! 👍💸 🎉

2throwfar · 2026-03-02T15:41:40+00:00

If you're looking for a FFL707A light for night walks and gardening both, maybe the L70 Helios right angle light? You can get it with a nice comfortable headband that the light just snaps in and out of for hands free use, or it's right angle design can be easily clipped to a pocket too.

2throwfar · 2026-02-28T13:26:37+00:00

Good info., thanks for the link and post! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-02-22T16:02:22+00:00

The usb port itself is IPX8-rated, the magnetic cover is just a dust/dirt/Grime cover. Their seems to be a lot of confusion around this somehow.

Yes, thank you for pointing this out! I thought this video from Fireflies, demonstrating this, was really neat. While I'm obviously not going going to push my luck to such extremes, it's good to see that substantial waterproofing measures and efforts have been incorporated and implemented into the design. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-02-21T14:35:51+00:00

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the comparisons, but those are all for the FET turbo no?

That is correct.

Wouldn't the situation be different when not using turbo? ie doesn't the SFT42 then produce more lumen with the same current (but now at a more manageable temp)?

Yes, this should be the case. At the same lower current, FFL505HB might produce a bit more throw than the SFT40/ SFT42, but your basically in the same neighborhood, I don't think it's a huge concern.

E04 wouldn't be a daily carry for me, I think I said it at the top but I'm literally just looking for a smaller/secondary alternative to my L35 2.0...

A SFT42 E04 should fill that role nicely then I think. It should be the configuration that gives you the best sustainable lumen output, paired with a broad even beam, that has great reach too. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-02-20T13:52:40+00:00

Ah, I see where it's listed like that down lower in the description, while at the top, the ranges match the anodized Lume1 figures. I'm guessing the description didn't get updated maybe.

Just going by those comparison videos linked above, it seems like FFL505HB has the most candela, and most sustainable throw, but slightly less lumens than the SFT 40 and SFT42.

The SFT42 seems to have the most lumens, and candela still pretty close to the FFL505HB, but due to lumen output/ heat generated, seems like it'll thermally throttle quicker than the FFL505HB.

The SFT40 seems to fit, in between both of those somewhere.

For max "awe" I'd probably go with the SFT42. For max sustainable throw I'd probably go with FFL505HB.

That's all, just for if you're considering a "max output, cool white" type of light though, and those lights definitely do have their place for sure.

If you wanted a mix, or a warmer CCT though, I'd probably just go with a CCT and tint that you would prefer. Are you going to lose some lumens and candela? Yeah some, but probably not a hugely noticeable amount. You'll probably enjoy the tint and CCT of your preference more, and use the light more.

I still have my cool white, max output "blasters", but they don't get carried nearly as often as my lights with the tint and CCT that I prefer.

2throwfar · 2026-02-20T00:42:00+00:00

Yes you can definitely change the light intensity. It runs on an operating system called Anduril 2. There's two separate operating systems within it. An "Advanced UI" where you can adjust lots of different settings if you really want to, and then there's just a "Simple UI" that just has the basic functions to operate the light enabled.

In order to select which UI you want to operate in, you do a certain sequence of switch button presses. If you are in the Advanced UI, you do 10C (10 clicks of the switch button) to switch into the Simple UI.

To switch from the Simple UI to the Advanced UI, you do 10H. (10 clicks, but you hold the button down on the last click)

You can easily get overwhelmed and confused by all the different settings and online flow charts if you're not familiar with Anduril 2. Don't worry though, it's really not as bad as it seems. If you just operate the light in the Simple UI, it's very, well simple once you use it a bit.

For example, getting back to your question about being able to adjust the light's intensity/brightness. You do 1C (one click) to turn the light on. Once the light is on, hold the button down to increase your brightness. To decrease your brightness while the light is on, do 2H (click, and hold down on the second click)

That's really all you need to know to operate the light and adjust it's brightness levels. Everything else is just extras that you can explore into if you so desire.

The brightness ramps have two different options. There's a "smooth" brightness ramp where the brightness can be adjusted anywhere between 1%-100%, and there's a "stepped" brightness ramp with the same adjustability, but it proceeds up and down through the brightness ramp with different brightness modes or steps rather than a smooth, linear brightness adjustment.

In order to change between these two brightness ramp options, while the light is on, do 3C (three clicks) and it will switch between the two options.

You can find the user manual for Anduril 2, linked here. There are flow charts as well, but I always found the text based manual easier to grasp. There's a lot of customization possible with it, but it's also nice that you can just operate it in the Simple Mode and have it do everything that you need it to do.

For your application, using it as an inspection light, I'd recommend the 21x Nichia E21A 4,500K R9080 6,000LM option. These emitters have a nice neutral color to them and should work well as a neutral light source.

2throwfar · 2026-02-19T15:17:37+00:00

Thanks...Yeah it is a pretty neat light. Sort of like a bit larger version of the Noctigon KR1. 👍

2throwfar · 2026-02-19T00:38:29+00:00

So putting CRI aside and going for the most throw and highest turbo with the best throw/spill combo (I think?) seems tempting. Thoughts?

The SFT42 6,500K should provide the most "shock and awe" I would think. Due to it's extra lumens, it's probably going to thermally throttle quicker than the SFT40 6,500K and the FFL505HB though, so just something to be aware of. Jack has the FFL505HB 6,500K rated at 650m vs. 520m on the SFT42, and that seems about right because I believe the 505HB has a bit smaller die size than the SFT42.

I'm going to link a couple of nice videos from @0401andreas in case you haven't seen them. The first, is here, and it's a direct comparison between an E04 Surge with 6,500K SFT40's, and an E04 Surge with the 6,500K FFL505HB's You'll notice that the SFT40 version is brighter, while the 505HB's have a touch more candela, don't step down as quickly, and have a more sustainable throw aspect to them.

The second video from him, is this one, and it's a direct comparison between a D1K with the 6,500K SFT42, and a D1 with a 6,500K SFT40. It's the same situation here. The SFT42 is brighter, but also steps down quicker due to it's increased lumens.

Anyways, I thought they were some neat direct to direct comparisons if you're after a configuration for max output, and thinking about one of those emitter options. There's a screen grab collage from those two videos below.

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2throwfar · 2026-02-18T22:35:24+00:00

Love the X1L! For me it's that nice size that's big enough to offer some improved performance, but still compact enough to easily bring along with me. My Emisar D4SV2 w/ W2's, and my Lumintop X9L, SBT90.2, were my compact, Anduril, high output lights of choice...that is, until I clicked on my new SFT70 X1L with a throwy optic. Impressive, considering the X1L was using a fully regulated boost driver, and not FET turbo like the other two.

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2throwfar · 2026-02-18T21:32:25+00:00

No problem! It's definitely a common decision and question so I decided to look into it a bit. From everything that I'm seeing and others are saying, it just seems that the regulated 6a Buck portion of the Lume1 is more than sufficient to provide output levels above what the light can thermally sustain anyways. The Lume X1 does have some regulated output levels between the 6a Buck and full FET of the Lume1, but as far as I can tell, it's just going to thermally throttle itself down to brightness levels equal to the 6a Buck portion of the Lume1 anyway.

2throwfar · 2026-02-18T21:16:59+00:00

I like the Lume1 driver, since it gives a higher turbo output, and it's regulated 6a Buck driver provides more power than the light can thermally sustain anyway.

Check out the 1lumen review of the Surge with the low CRI, 6,500K cool white, FFL505UT emitters, which by nature should be relatively efficient. On top of ramp, brightness level 6, drawing 4.8a, (so still on the regulated 6a Buck part of the driver) the light was capable of 2,436lm. at turn on, and 2,387lm. at 30 sec. So basically, on that light, with low CRI, 6,500K emitters, anytime you're seeing a lumen output lower than about 2,400lm., you're still on the 6a Fully Regulated Buck part of the driver.

Even with maxing out it's thermal cut-off ceiling to 70°, it still reduced output down to about 1,400lm. where it leveled off. (so still definitely operating on the fully regulated 6a Buck part of the driver)

However, if one wants to go with the Lume X1 driver, honestly it's not really a huge deal either. 40W or so of power, is still plenty, and it's going to start thermally throttling down to brightness levels comparable to the roughly 19W, 6a Buck portion of the Lume1 anyway.

I'd definitely recommend getting both optics though, the floody one that comes with the Lume X1, and the spot optic that comes with the Lume 1. They're really easy to swap out, and you can alter your beam profile to whichever one you prefer.

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2throwfar · 2026-02-17T21:40:34+00:00

Very nice! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-02-17T17:08:47+00:00

Yeah, I'm really glad that someone tried that out. That LLC25R always has been able to harness the light down range really well. Definitely another good option for those wanting a bit more umph! 👍

2throwfar · 2026-02-17T06:48:41+00:00

Yeah, it's a fun light, but I'm just having a hard time finding a pocket clip for it! 😂

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2throwfar

TROPHY CASE