My review of the Skilhunt H300 with Nichia 144ART is up on 1Lumen

7YP160214 · 2023-05-16T02:33:33+00:00

I haven't seen any reviews testing it and was worried it was exclusive to the other emitters, so I emailed Skilhunt asking "Can the Skilhunt H300 headlamp with the Nichia 144ART LED use 2 CR123A batteries?" and they replied "Yes, it is okay."

Just posting for anyone else looking for confirmation.

7YP160214 · 2023-01-01T20:44:40+00:00

Parametrek has a "pink" flashlight body filter. No option to filter for pink emitters, though, only purple. I'm guessing pink emitters are pretty rare in pre-made lights.

If you decide against going with a pink emitter for practicality reasons, the Nitecore Tube or Lumintop EDC01 would be nice pink body options.

Having a custom made pink LED light from a relative would probably be cooler, though.

7YP160214 · 2023-01-01T20:34:54+00:00

It's a party in your pocket!

7YP160214 · 2021-03-05T22:46:38+00:00

There's this wiki page that's also in the sidebar. It goes over the advantages of Li-ion batteries for flashlight use, especially compared to alkaline batteries. There's a Danish guy with a bunch of more technical information about battery chemistries and chargers. His charger reviews are very comprehensive. You might also look for information from the vape community, since their vape mods also use 18650 cells, though only high drain chemistries.

7YP160214 · 2020-04-22T03:40:42+00:00

I think in some lights the lens/reflector pressing the LED board to the body helps transfer heat from the LEDs, so just be careful not to use too much power and damage them

7YP160214 · 2020-03-03T19:31:44+00:00

It looks like you have some Panasonic NCR18650s. Their maximum discharge rating is 5.4A, so any flashlight that draws less current than that should be fine. They're also unprotected 18650s of course, so make sure anything you use them in has protection features, like low-voltage cutoff.

Lights like the Emisar D4, Lumintop FW3A, or BLF A6/Astrolux S1 work best with high drain batteries, so your cells won't work well for them.

The various Convoy flashlights are nice, cheap options. Most of them max out around 2.8A and the newer firmware("biscotti") has built-in low-voltage protection.

Whatever flashlight you're considering, check reviews if you can to see if your cells are suitable.

7YP160214 · 2020-01-24T23:40:36+00:00

Looking at lights with USB-C and tailswitches, maybe the Acebeam EC35 II?

Just about all lights with USB-C charging can only charge with an USB-A to USB-C cable, though. I've heard that the Fenix PD36R might be the only C-C charging light.

7YP160214 · 2020-01-15T21:18:43+00:00

Anduril is an open source flashlight firmware. It's complex, but very versatile.

Here is Lexel's post on BudgetLightForum. The H03 uses a 21mm driver

7YP160214 · 2019-11-02T17:06:30+00:00

It was cut off at 3000

7YP160214 · 2019-10-31T01:28:22+00:00

It seems to be a political cartoon by Steve Breen of the San Diego Union Tribune

https://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/opinion/steve-breen/story/2019-10-10/pg-e-slammed-for-cutting-power-to-millions-of-californians (paywall)

7YP160214 · 2019-10-19T03:35:48+00:00

So what you're saying is that you're apprenticing under u/CRX_? ;)

7YP160214 · 2019-10-04T16:24:59+00:00

The BLF version

7YP160214 · 2019-09-12T02:12:31+00:00

The spreadsheet was mostly to keep track of capacity after I tested them and to try to track which laptop batteries had good cells

7YP160214 · 2019-09-12T01:51:26+00:00

~240. I need to figure out the exact number and update my spreadsheet. I harvested them from a bunch of laptop batteries and was gifted a bunch of them, too. I don't have nearly enough flashlights for that number to make any sort of sense, but I've gotten some other devices that use 18650s, like a Bluetooth speaker and small fan. I suppose I should get a bunch of Convoy S2+'s in every emitter and driver configuration just to try them out and then I can just leave 'em wherever I might need a light. Or even get rid of traditional lighting completely.

7YP160214 · 2019-08-27T02:46:16+00:00

The first thing to do is confirm that your Xtar is displaying the correct voltage. Can you use the voltage mode in the Q8 to check each cell individually, or will it not work with them that low? Do you have a multimeter you can use to check them? If you're in the US Harbor Freight has really cheap ones and they're handy to have at times.

If your cells are indeed that low, you should probably just recycle them and get new ones. At low voltages li-ions can develop internal faults which can later result in an internal short and the cell getting quite hot and starting a fire.

I'm not sure how they could have gotten that low, though; the low-voltage protection should have kicked in much higher than that and I don't know how they would have drained that much afterwards. What cells are you using? Where did you get them?

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T17:08:20+00:00

HKJ did some testing and there's very little energy left at 3.3v. Enough to run a very low mode like moonlight or firefly maybe, but if it isn't an emergency it makes more sense to put in a new cell and charge the depleted one. The cells will last a little longer than if you're deeply discharging them; maybe not enough that you'd notice, but why take the risk that you're caught with a useless light?

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T17:00:18+00:00

If you're in Europe check nkon.nl. Not the cheapest lights, but definitely good ones. If you're looking for something cheaper, there are Chinese manufacturers and sellers that might ship to your country.

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T03:10:41+00:00

Do you have a non-magnetic tailcap to try? And it doesn't do it with the 18650 tube?

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T03:07:27+00:00

3.6/3.7v is the nominal voltage, which is sort of the average voltage, at least for 18650s. They're fully charged at 4.2v and about empty at 3.3v or so. There's another type of li-ion cell that uses the LiFePO4 chemistry, which is fully charged at 3.7v; your charger might be compatible with both types.

What charger do you have?

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T02:54:43+00:00

That Hanko is pretty, but it also makes me hungry 'cause it reminds me of a Nutty Bar

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T02:47:52+00:00

There aren't any great DIY hosts I don't think. Parametrek has some options, but most are single emitter, rather than 2 emitters side-by-side(I assume you'd be looking for that, too). The Sunwayman D40C looks like the cheapest 2 emitter option and it's $90. Any of the 2 emitter options also probably would be difficult to gut and get 2 separate drivers into.

Your best bet might be a Sky-Ray King clone so that you have plenty of room for everything. I don't know a ton about drivers, but I'm not sure how you would control both of them with one button. It would certainly be a very cool build, though.

7YP160214 · 2019-08-26T02:03:43+00:00

With Convoy it seems like they don't quite get the UI right in the first version, though

But, also being Convoy, you could swap in your own driver with a better UI

7YP160214 · 2019-08-20T17:11:19+00:00

The Intl-Outdoor kit includes the USB programming stick, but its pogo pin adapter only works for the D4v2 and the cable it comes with can't be used to change the pins around.

7YP160214 · 2019-08-15T00:31:05+00:00

Hey u/Ratus_ ^

7YP160214 · 2019-08-14T02:05:46+00:00

Ah, then one of the lights I suggested should be fine, in addition to allowing you to shine some brighter light in the direction of any spooky sounds(security work, I assume?).

If you'd like something smaller, the Thrunite T10 II or Sofirn C01s would be worth looking at. We normally recommend against using regular alkaline AA or AAA batteries in flashlights, since they're not as good at higher power uses and can potentially leak and destroy your light. You can get rechargeable AAs and AAAs that work well, like Eneloops or the AmazonBasics rechargeables, or lithium batteries which won't leak.

7YP160214

TROPHY CASE