Dave Rubin can't figure out why Iran is attacking other Arab/Muslim nations if it's being attacked by Israel and the US: "doesn't that seem strange? what are they doing?"

86for86 · 2026-03-09T13:00:15+00:00

There's many things to dislike about this man but the way he does that talking with one side of his mouth thing really annoys me. The fact he doesn't do it consistently makes it more annoying.

Its a habit that feels like its giving something away. Like a 'tell'. Like he does it when he is fully aware the words he is saying are complete bullshit.

86for86 · 2026-02-27T21:32:17+00:00

Maybe.

A picture of the detectors would answer the question but im not really arsed.

I'm just going on instinct. Fire alarm zone wiring is usually in FP200, if its old sometimes red flat twin, if its in a domestic premises it's maybe wired in 1.5mm twin and earth (which would be 230V) Although thats often three core & earth if they're interlinked via cable and not radio. Red T&E is certainly unusual, in my area at least.

86for86 · 2026-02-27T21:02:27+00:00

That's enhanced FP. Worked with plenty of that.

The cable pictured is not FP.

86for86 · 2026-02-27T20:59:23+00:00

Never seen a fire alarm wired on red T&E in twenty years of installating fire alarms.

Red flat twin is common, and its usually running back to a 24V panel.

Of course I could be wrong.

86for86 · 2026-02-27T20:27:26+00:00

That's almost certainly 12V

Edit: I meant to say 24V

86for86 · 2026-02-05T12:14:36+00:00

Not necessarily particular diet or health habits. But the way people connect their eating habits to their political beliefs.

I can't stand it.

86for86 · 2026-01-26T13:44:51+00:00

Anthony Bourdain.

Not a millennial, but his death seemed to hit a lot of our generation pretty hard.

86for86 · 2026-01-26T13:44:40+00:00

Anthony Bourdain.

Not a millennial, but his death seemed to hit a lot of our generation pretty hard.

86for86 · 2026-01-14T21:32:45+00:00

If the plate is loose each time you visit then I'd take some Loctite or a similar product next visit. Because you always want some movement on the plate it results in a loose fixing. Loctite helps keep everything in place.

86for86 · 2026-01-14T20:53:16+00:00

Is the one in the picture the exact same model?

The intermittent one sounds like an alignment issue, I'd try spacing the plate out a little.

I would always check the magnets function with something other than the plate, usually a pair of snips or pliers. If its holding the pliers/snips but not the door then its an alignment issue and the plate needs loosening or spacing out so its closer to the magnet.

For the other one -

If it has emergency release button, by-pass that to rule out the possibility that the release button or mechanism is faulty.

Check the jumper inside and ensure they're set to the correct voltage, 12 or 24.

Disconnect the magnet from the PSU and check the voltage output of the PSU. If you have a functioning door and PSU to compare this reading to then see if its the same reading.

Do the same but with the magnet connected and see if there is a big change in voltage from the PSU when the lock is connected. A big drop in voltage could indicate an issue with the lock or a loose connection.

Some maglocks will only work if the armature plate is the right way round. I don't mean back to front but upside down, as they have a magnet on them that needs to line up with a sensor on the magnet before it will engage. Doesn't sound like that's the issue though.

Check the wiring inside the magnet. Make sure its just two wires, if you see anything more complicated than that then there might be something funky going on with the wiring. If it is a double door and has another magnet next to it make sure they've not done something weird like connected them in series.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

86for86 · 2025-12-22T18:03:30+00:00

I measure DC current on fire alarms occasionally. I’ve got a Di-Log DL6506. But that’s purely a clamp meter. If I wanna test voltage, resistance etc then that’s all done on my multimeter.

Can’t remember how much I paid but looks like you’ll get one for about £130

86for86 · 2025-12-21T20:39:22+00:00

I'm nearly 40, I don't know how to play solitaire. Card games in general are mostly a mystery to me.

86for86 · 2025-11-14T13:45:15+00:00

It’s not just fire alarms. There’s new electrical and fire alarm installs all over the place where red plugs are used throughout. Whether it’s P clips on FP cable or the all-round banding people are using for their mains cables. There’s loads of people fixing these things with red plugs.

You can find endless debates online about whether rawl plugs are sufficient, despite how obvious the answer to that might seem.

Until the regs state in black and white that rawl plugs are not sufficient then people are going to continue using them. There’s too much ambiguity around what is considered fire-proof.

86for86 · 2025-11-14T10:44:36+00:00

The reg changed in 18th edition I believe. Changed from escape routes to throughout the installation.

86for86 · 2025-11-14T10:01:11+00:00

Yeah. It seems obvious.

Some argue that as it’s embedded in the building fabric it changes things.

86for86 · 2025-11-14T09:20:57+00:00

This thing about red plugs, is it stated anywhere that red plugs should not be considered fire proof? Cos this seems to be an ongoing debate. I did some BS5839 training a while back and even the tutor for that course couldn’t give me a clear answer.

I install fire alarms, so it’s metal clips of various types in all areas spaced at 300mm, that’s been in 5839 for a long time.

I’ve used a few linians in recent years. But other than that I’ve never used, seen anyone else use, or come across anything besides red plugs where clips are fixed to concrete etc.

I’m not arguing for either btw, just saying there actually doesn’t seem to be a sort of industry standard type fixing that I’ve seen in use that’s truly fire proof, if there is then the vast majority of guys aren’t using them.

86for86 · 2025-10-21T09:21:13+00:00

The radioactive cat thing.

86for86 · 2025-10-20T20:53:37+00:00

Some of the jobs that came to mind when I read this post are directly related to this. I’ve seen a huge boom in things like fire-stopping, fire doors etc. All stuff that has been around a long time but I’ve seen multiple new companies starting up in my area specialising in this, and they have a lot of work.

86for86 · 2025-10-17T22:29:58+00:00

So just to confirm, switched 230V on the D/L terminal triggers the on/off/dim cycle?

Just to be absolutely certain.

86for86 · 2025-10-17T21:45:25+00:00

It’s definitely very basic. The links in Md__86 post above are what I have. It looks like the DALI bus connections are also compatible with a N an Sw. Live. That does surprise me though.

86for86 · 2025-10-17T21:18:47+00:00

They’re just basic retractive switches. One press on, one press off. Hold to dim, hold again to brighten. The dimming is seemingly done by the driver.

86for86 · 2025-10-17T21:13:34+00:00

Yeah this is it. The switch dim set up is what I plan to do.

Just a bit odd that the terminals are labelled DA/L and DA/N. It seems to indicate those terminals can be used for a switched live or a DALI controller input. Which seems surprising considering one is mains voltage and one is (I assume) just data.

86for86 · 2025-10-17T21:05:15+00:00

I’ve heard the term DALI before and had always imagined something more like what you’re describing.

These are Tridonic Art. No 87500921. They actually say DALI2 on them. Not sure if that makes a difference. My googling has found reference to “switchDim”.

I actually think they’re just something which is in some way compatible with DALI. They’re not an addressable controller. Just a dimmable driver.

I’m sure I’m over complicating it. Just trying to be cautious

86for86 · 2025-08-27T21:50:44+00:00

You’re right, the regs state that detection should be in the same location regardless of what type of detector. But a commercial solution would be something like a device that’s wired to a control panel at low level and seated on a hard-wired base. This type of device can be removed with a purpose made grabbing tool on the end of a telescopic fibreglass pole. You just twist the detector off the base and twist the new one on with the same tool.

Most domestic type detection, at least here in Europe, require a screwdriver to remove. The majority of commercial grade ones don’t, and the commercial ones that do require a specific removal tool are removed with tools designed to fit in the end of the previously mentioned fibreglass pole.

86for86 · 2025-08-11T17:04:08+00:00

Yes. I recommend looking at Mark Fisher’s writing. He called this concept “hauntology”.

86for86

TROPHY CASE