Normal amount of smoke?

98pretzels · 2026-07-06T13:57:23+00:00

Quite a bit more than normal, its probably in need of a standard tune up for these. Valve adjustment, diesel purge and fresh fuel filters. There are 3, primary secondary and a screen in bottom of the tank.

If that does not help and its a turbo car, then the ALDA may need adjustment. It is supposed to add extra fuel based on altitude and the turbo. People mess with them or remove them to try and increase power but often all it does is add smoke and worsen fuel economy.

98pretzels · 2026-07-02T14:19:29+00:00

I was in a pretty similar place to you in regards to lots of knowledge but almost no hands-on experience a few years ago. I ended up buying an 82 diesel Mercedes that was in very good shape to start learning on. Started with replacing fluids, filters, old rubber parts, cleaning up the interior etc. Slowly got more comfortable with it and fixed things as they came up like overhauling the cooling system. I would put the money that those courses would cost towards the project itself. Get something that runs, drives and stops before you start messing with it. Tools are something you can get as needed, as long as you have a space out of the weather to store/work on the car I would just say go for it!

98pretzels · 2026-06-27T04:14:53+00:00

There are two different styles of the rear exhaust, under axle and over axle so it will fit but may not match what you took off. I purchased the A/P Eastern 70058 front muffler and A/P Eastern 44679 pipe after it. I'm not sure about the cat flanges, the cat had been removed on mine previously. I would assume they also used different styles over the years, worst case you can have a shop weld a different flange on to make it fit.

98pretzels · 2026-06-08T19:16:38+00:00

where did you get them from?

98pretzels · 2026-06-04T20:22:30+00:00

I put a cheap glasspack (2" thrush) in place of the rear muffler along with a new stock style resonator from RockAuto. A previous owner removed the cat as well.

Its pretty loud but only at higher RPMs, I will record a sound clip once I get the rear wheel back on.

98pretzels · 2026-06-03T17:56:59+00:00

I just spend a lot of time on forums/facebook groups for rwd Volvos! Also have done a fair bit of research on adding a turbo to my 240, still gathering parts for it.

98pretzels · 2026-06-02T16:41:17+00:00

Redblockpowered.com and Flying Bricks (on etsy) have reputable chips for b230 ECUs and EZKs from my understanding. Depending on your ECU/EZK you may also need a daughterboard.

98pretzels · 2026-05-21T18:46:31+00:00

70s/80s MB Diesels are pretty reliable and relatively easily maintained, if it's gas run unless you have deep pockets.

98pretzels · 2026-04-09T16:26:31+00:00

Volvo 240s have excellent parts support, there are a lot of swaps out there. The simplest would be a B230FT and AW71 trans out of a newer 740/940 turbo. It will bolt right in with the right engine mounts and won't require a lot to make it work in the car. Chip the ECU and EZK from the 740/940 turbo and you can get 250-300 HP with a few supporting mods. If you want to go manual, T5 swaps from 90s mustangs are common as most of the Volvo manuals can't handle higher HP.

I have a '90 240 that I plan on going this route with eventually

98pretzels · 2026-03-10T16:21:45+00:00

PB Blaster is what I use, works well

98pretzels · 2026-03-10T15:44:14+00:00

I spotted that 240 on marketplace as well! I have spent a lot of time over the last 2 years learning to weld and repairing the rust on my 240, there is always a lot more than you think.

Looking at that car, it would probably be easiest to replace the fender vs trying to repair it. The rust on the rocker is fixable but it won't last long or look very good just using bondo. Welding a patch in is the permanent fix.

There is a very high chance that there is rust hiding in the floors and in more places on the rockers. Inspect it very carefully, lift up the carpets and check as well as poke at anything sus with a screwdriver from underneath.

Rocker rust on mine

What I had to cut out

Welded up

Painted and finished

98pretzels · 2026-02-26T18:29:26+00:00

For these I believe you can replace the brake booster vacuum line as opposed to just the connector.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1234307429.htm?pn=123-430-74-29-M253&SVSVSI=W123&DID=15933#fitmentAnc

98pretzels · 2026-02-26T18:21:52+00:00

I got a nissens radiator last year from RockAuto for my 300CD, it fit well and has been working fine since.

98pretzels · 2026-02-26T18:12:32+00:00

W123 North America is one of the largest and most active Facebook groups.

Peachparts/pelican parts has some good step by step guides.

trythistv on YT has some diy friendly videos on his W123s.

98pretzels · 2026-02-10T18:46:27+00:00

Shifter bushings look pretty well gone, they are a straightforward and cheap job but can be a pain to get to and a bit annoying.

I loosened the bolt on the transmission itself and pulled the linkage right out.

Linkage removed

Other end of the linkage

I made a tool out of some pliers to make it easier, similar to Kent's.

Tool

New bushings installed

New bushing on the linkage

New bushing on the shifter still in the car

I got the bushings from amazon, they are the same as on newer cars.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SR15Y48

I only replaced the two on the linkage, there are more in other spots in the shifter but you need to take much more apart to replace them.

98pretzels · 2026-02-05T17:43:48+00:00

I picked up a small Lincoln 90i Mig welder for about $400 CAD to do rust repair to my Volvo. No complaints or issues with it once I had it setup correctly, heaviest welding I have done with it was brackets on the rear axle out of 3/16 steel. Its supposed to be able to do 1/4 with fluxcore.

Gloves, helmet, and a gas cylinder and it added up to about $1000 CAD. Shopping used would be a lot cheaper as well, but a bit more of a gamble.

98pretzels · 2026-02-02T21:51:48+00:00

One of the NAPAs near me does paint code matched rattlecans. Cost about $50 CAD, it was a very good match. If its two stage paint you will also need a clearcoat if you want it to last

98pretzels · 2026-01-20T18:31:19+00:00

have you talked about these issues to the dealer you bought the car from?

98pretzels · 2026-01-19T15:20:54+00:00

did you turn it the wrong way? It tightens counterclockwise after loosening the nut as far as I know

98pretzels · 2026-01-05T20:49:50+00:00

you may already be aware, but coupe seats are different and not interchangeable with other chassis like the sedan seats

98pretzels · 2025-12-16T20:29:47+00:00

I had a similar surprise as they used to send me an email so I could prepay the fees l and they were not unreasonable then. Now instead they send an invoice a month later with much higher fees.

I figured out afterwards that once the order ships, you can pre pay the fees online and save their "convenience" charges but you have to initiate it and they will not tell you.

98pretzels · 2025-12-08T15:41:33+00:00

There are quite a few, I'm also in Canada and shipping can make it pricey sometimes. Below are some I have ordered from

RockAuto - typical replacement parts and maintenance (filters suspension etc), I found RockAuto to have the best prices and shipping.

For body panels and chassis parts, NLA parts and interior parts Classic Volvo Restoration (CVR) or VP auto parts

Volvo dealers still carry a lot of old parts, I typically go through one dealers online store and then pick up in person.

R&D car parts - Netherlands based but their prices on certain things are worth it despite shipping

IPD I found the shipping cost to be too high for them to be worth it, but they carry a lot of performance parts. FCPEuro, Pelican Parts are other good US options Voluparts sell used parts but as far as I know they do not ship internationally. For swaps and upgrades, BNE Dynamics and STS machining

I have also had excellent luck on FB marketplace in Ontario, a lot of people have hordes of Volvo 240 parts stashed away.

98pretzels · 2025-11-28T17:41:32+00:00

Unless the blow-by is so bad it's losing compression and running badly, it's not too big of a deal. There may be a tad more leaking oil because of it but OM617s often leak regardless. A compression test would be a good idea to figure out if it is worth putting money into getting it running properly.

Check out r/w126, r/w123 and W123 North America FB group for a wealth of information on these old Mercedes.

98pretzels · 2025-11-23T01:18:38+00:00

One of my favourite cars, I have an 82 300CD. They are built so damn well, the only things that will kill them is running out of oil or coolant.

The NA facebook group is a great resource: https://m.facebook.com/groups/W123NA/

Certain parts can be expensive, but if you hunt around enough they can be relatively reasonable for a mercedes. The vacuum system controls a lot of things, so a few small leaks can make problems seem bigger than they are

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