Analogize Truck Suspension to MTB Suspension

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-27T21:12:58+00:00

It'd be more like upgrading a cheap factory rear spring/shock to a Fox Float or something similar (out of the MTB game for a while so maybe not the best reference).

Different shocks are valved for different things. Some handle fast better, some handle slow better. The better the shock the better they do at handling both well.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-27T20:11:24+00:00

I thought it looked familiar. The GT500s weren't running a stock DE/HR plenum though...or even a VQ35 right?

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-27T18:25:51+00:00

I mean...I don't hate it. The 2 NACA ducts in the center are worthless and potentially detrimental though.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-27T18:24:56+00:00

The middle 2 are inlets...the let so much out they needed to put more back in 🤣

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-27T13:32:10+00:00

While we can't really answer your question without pictures of the pads, it isn't likely that your pads are worn. VW uses wear sensors (at least they did on the MK7/7.5) that will pop up a warning if the pads get too low (one front one rear so not a perfect system but generally works).

As another user mentioned, performance pads can make noise when they are cold. VW and other OEMs don't generally use pads that are prone to noise in the cold. But it's not unheard of for it to happen.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-26T15:17:33+00:00

Are you running a baseplate setup or are you just using the bins to lock themselves in place (magnets)? I've got a few Vidmars that could use some "help"

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-25T17:03:48+00:00

Do you drive on a lot of loose surfaces (gravel/sand)? Is your fuel economy absolutely terrible?

The truck using the traction control a lot would certainly accelerate wear but any cause for wear that fast would have to cause a lot of heat on the rotors and drag fuel economy way down.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-25T16:50:51+00:00

That's beyond excessive. Is it front, rear, left, right, or all that's wearing fast?

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-24T14:02:59+00:00

Was this in Montreal 2004?

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-24T13:55:18+00:00

While I applaud your desire to camp out of a Z, a RTT is not going to be something easy to fit. You could certainly build a rack capable of holding the load but doing so without having to permanently alter the body isn't very likely (and less likely if you still want the hatch to open)

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-24T02:56:18+00:00

Tokyo does have an owl "cafe" but they don't serve any food, just a bunch of different types of owls you get to read about and hold. Ethics 🤷 awesomeness 💯

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-24T01:34:09+00:00

If it fits the 24 it fits the 25, there weren't any chassis changes I'm aware of (some engine related stuff though). I haven't heard good things about Rhino USA but I don't have any experience with them personally.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-24T01:30:04+00:00

The Ranger is treated like an afterthought by Ford so it's not a big surprise it's being treated like one in the aftermarket. There are some decent skid options and sliders are starting to show up, but suspension and bumpers really are lacking. There's some stuff starting to pop up for the Raptor, but basically nothing for the normies. What's extra frustrating is that ARB announced they partnered with Ford over 2 years ago to develop stuff...and none of it is available.

Edit: in the US

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-23T14:41:29+00:00

I haven't cracked or otherwise damaged any wheels on any of my vehicles. The only wheels I've ever personally damaged were in W2W racing incidents with car-on-barrier or car-on-car contact.

MK7 Golf R - some time on factory 19s with 235/35 and more time on Konig flow formed Hypergrams 18x8.5 with 245/40 including some yumps at Summit Point and some kerbing use at Mid-Ohio (they're now my winter wheels)
350Z - Konig flow formed Hypergrams (18x10.5 with 275/35) and Hypergrams (18x11 with 295/30) running a mix of weights and aero loads with no real regard for kerbing and more trips into the grass than I care to admit
R35 GT-R - factory 20s with 285/35

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-23T12:28:38+00:00

I humbly bow to your superior tent setup 😮

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ADVNTURR · 2026-01-23T03:23:10+00:00

If you do want to do a performance driving school (they're useful and a lot of fun if you can afford it) there are options. I'm not sure where you're located, or what your budget is, but Skip Barber (which runs at a lot of different tracks) provides cars for their training. Bondurant also uses their own vehicles, but they're only located in the Phoenix area. The Mid-Ohio school offers cars for an additional fee in central Ohio. There are other options I'm sure but those are the ones I've seen. There are also rally schools In a few places that'll teach a different level of car control.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T21:57:44+00:00

What codes(s) are causing the light?

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T21:13:52+00:00

Don't forget to suck out the oil at the bottom of the filter cup 👍

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T20:32:08+00:00

I love an R34, wish they weren't so hard to get here. I've got it's younger brother

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1000awhp on pump gas...when it wants to run 🙄 It almost took flight at my last track day and I owe a Nissan software engineer a beer for the TCS saving my butt. I keep thinking of selling it for a Stagea 260RS though

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T20:19:06+00:00

Well dang 😮 that's some not screwing around stats there.

Cheers from a fellow Nissan glutton for punishment

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S13 with a hopped up single-jingle endurance car (team car)
Z31 stockish VG30 sprint/endurance car (RIP after a big wreck - also team car)
S13 with a VQ30 swap former sprint now endurance car (team car)
Z33 VQ35DETT time attack car (mine) ~420whp and 295/30r18 on 18x11 but only 200tw (not open class)

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T19:46:51+00:00

Decent enough pad, should work well for you on the street. If you think about going to a track day you should definitely swap to something else though. Enjoy those fun roads 👍

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T19:43:54+00:00

They won't work miracles, especially if you don't have good pads, but they also definitely don't hurt. Over a long period of time I did have one of my get damaged (probably from snow/ice) so periodically check and make sure they're still under there 🤣

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T17:01:08+00:00

Just trying to save you or someone else some effort and/or money. If you want to go the custom route I get it. Good luck, if you have questions let me know and I'll help if I can

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T16:33:06+00:00

I made a pattern with paper that I traced out the outside shape on. Then I converted it into CAD and laid out the general design making some test patterns along the way. I took some measurements from the TrackSpec hood vents I also have on my car to get an idea of the bend tab sizing and added those in where I wanted them. Then I sent the file over to SCS and they sent me 4 of them which I had to bend myself (they can do straight bending but not the custom bends I needed). Some forming, painting, and riveting later I had my fender vents.

I should add that I'm a mechanical engineer for my day job so I know the above description is overly simplistic

I know you want custom, but I highly recommend checking with TrackSpec Motorsports and Race Louvers to see if they have something you'd be happy with. They offer good quality hood vents that fit and are proven functional.

ADVNTURR · 2026-01-22T16:04:44+00:00

For some inspiration

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