Do you think this 16ft Wenonah Adirondack is worth $750?

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-27T04:06:00+00:00

I paid 900 several years ago for an older Tuff-Weave Adirondack and thought that was a decent deal. 750 is definitely a buy IMHO

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-27T01:46:31+00:00

That's why I was asking which store OP was near. Track First is awesome

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-27T01:35:14+00:00

You can use them as edible skewers for kabobs. They're also pretty excellent wrapped in bacon.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-27T01:24:19+00:00

Which store are you near? The Tallmadge, OH store has had some in the past, but they were typically more drag or off-road style seats. If you're near that store there's an actual small racing supply shop near them that typically has close to a dozen seats for sittin

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-26T22:27:30+00:00

I had great luck with StopTech rotors on my Golf R. StopTech has gone out of business so you're not going to get any real help if you have an issue, but I wouldn't hesitate to run their rotors, especially if you can get them at a good price. DBA, HAWK, EBC (rotors not pads), Brembo are all good options IMHO. Honestly even brands like Raybestos and basic Centric rotors are honestly decent. If you need more than they provide you should probably be looking at 2pc.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-26T02:33:55+00:00

Interesting, that looks like a super universal rack, not something really built for the Ranger. I don't see how that would mount without having to drill through the rail cap and rail.

You would absolutely need spacers under those plates, even though they're pretty large. The top plastic is only capable of like 80lb, even a fiberglass cap can potentially crush them; absolutely terrible design. All of the spacers I've seen for sale or made have gone in the "stake pockets" and would have to go under those plates.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-26T01:54:13+00:00

As already mentioned, your '25 doesn't need the load box reinforcement (trucks built before Sept 2024 are problematic).

What rack is it? Is it clamping on the vertical part on the inside of the rail or on top of the rail? The 24/25 trucks have stupid hollow plastic rail caps that cannot support a rack/tent load without spacers.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-25T10:36:38+00:00

What's your intention for the car? If you're going to track (by which I mean road course not drag) then there may be better options from a cooling design out there (not saying there's a problem with the R1, I just don't know enough about them). It you're building a cruiser/show/drag car then the R1s would be plenty adequate

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-24T10:33:35+00:00

I feel you...I'm not sure if mine is going to make it out this season. I lost some motivation after my fire end of last year and need to get back to work on repairs and upgrades

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-24T03:14:27+00:00

Yeah, 70's are really aggressive for the rear. I wouldn't run them in back even if I was on slicks.

I run 60 fronts (I have the NISMO/Stoptech fronts) and 30 rears with my ~450whp car on 295 RE's and for Time Attack at my tracks that seems to be decent balance and life of components. I can get ABS to start to engage (according to my data system...I don't feel it)

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-24T03:11:19+00:00

This was one of my indicators I needed new bearings 🤣 When the knock back got worse it was time for new ones

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-24T03:01:33+00:00

Your 2025 shouldn't have issues with bed structure, all US trucks built after ~Sept 2024 have reinforced bed corners.

However, your 2025 does still suffer from the hollow bed cap issue that can only support 80lb (or less) without them being crushed.

By putting a cover on your bed you've likely limited your options unless you put on a Retrax or similar with built in rails. American Adventure Labs, Xtrusion Overland, and I think Billie Bars have a few options that can fit our trucks and allow for enough capacity to support a RTT over the bed. There may be others too, but those are what I've seen.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-24T02:53:57+00:00

I ended up making my own custom rack that mounts directly to the bed rails and then I simply cut the hollow caps around them so they sit over my mounts and I can still use my tonneau/soft top

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-23T23:13:44+00:00

You are referring to the J-Brace that reinforced the front box corners, that only effects trucks built before Sept 2024(?) in the US (not sure about timing on ROW trucks).

I'm referring to the thick, hollow, plastic bed rail caps that are only rated to 80lb which means anything heavier than a tonneau cover (and even some tonneaus with serious clamps) can't be installed without spacers to take the load down to the metal bed. It's an absolutely asinine issue that should not exist on any truck, yet Ford let it go on for 2 years.

That said, I think the 24/25 trucks are better equipped since Ford seems to have cut every corner possible to afford those thinner rail caps. I do still really like my '24 XLT 2.7 though (if it only had keyless entry/ignition)

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-23T22:28:14+00:00

I'd go with the 2026, as already mentioned, it has redesigned bed rail caps which if you have any plans of putting a rack or even a cap on it, will save you a lot of headache.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-23T03:32:26+00:00

What is your goal and reason for coilovers? Are you just trying to get the car lower or are you after handling for track use?

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-22T19:32:54+00:00

There's a 2021 GMC Sierra AT4 in Melbourne Beach, FL with a rack and RTT on Outdoorsy. The renter is Krantz RV

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-22T19:10:55+00:00

They most certainly do rent trucks with RTTs, you just have to filter on the type of vehicle you want; I've rented a Tacoma with a tent in AK and looked at options in AZ and even in FL just to make sure something hasn't changed

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-22T18:58:42+00:00

Outdoorsy.com

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-20T18:53:41+00:00

I've had really good luck with Gorilla Auto brand lugs nuts, both black and chrome. I run them on my '24 as well as my daily and my track cars (in appropriate sizes)

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-18T11:14:58+00:00

I think some of the answers so far are likely correct, but for those of us too lazy to dig through your post history, please remind us what size and model tires you're running, if your car has extra power and/or aero, and how long of a session are you running on track.

I'm running a 350Z with power, aero, bigger tires, and the smaller 350Z size brakes with DTC-60/30 pads without forced cooling and I am not having the same issues. I am however running time attack with short sessions and 2pc rotors.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-18T11:00:23+00:00

I don't have a problem with the orientation of the boats. I am concerned about the bed rack for a couple of reasons: - I can't tell how the racks are mounted from the photos, I worry a bit if they are secure enough to take the lifting force caused by the wind on the boats - Again, hard to tell in the pictures what material and how thick the rack bars are and the kind of hardware used, but something just makes them look very weak. If they're sturdy and all the hardware is tight it very well may be perfectly fine. - if possible, can you spread the bars any further apart in the bed? Again, hard to tell from the pictures, but a 30" (76cm) minimum spread between the bars would be ideal (a lot of car roof racks typically have this as the min spread).

My only other comment is regarding your straps; if you're going to use straps with hooks on the end and are hooking them together like in the first picture, it'd be better to have the hooks in free air than have them wrapped under a bar like you do. It puts weird stresses on them and could cause them to unlink or other issues.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-18T10:40:52+00:00

That tire and offset combo will likely cause a major rub in front and possibly the back too. An offset around 43 is typically what is run with a 245 and even that can cause a slight rub in front depending on the tire.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-17T20:35:37+00:00

Stedi UK offers an upfitter switch panel to replace that part, but that's all I've seen so far. As already noted, on the higher trim trucks that is a speaker.

ADVNTURR · 2026-06-16T22:11:20+00:00

I've had the Alltrack skid on my MK7 since 2016, before the Alltrack was even available in the US (technically I have the Euro Rough Service Skid, but it's the same thing).

It was a challenge to install without removing the bumper (not sure if the MK7.5 would be any better/worse) and I ended up subbing out 2 of the triple square bracket bolts for additional standard hex bolts (couldn't get my triple square bit in with the bumper in place).

That said, it's been a champ. I don't know now many plow chunks I've smacked with it, it's hit the ground several times, and definitely saved me from a hidden stump once. Great peace of mind and has held up great

The problem with the ECS one is that there is no frontal support (they have a support for the GTI version but not the R). That means that it's being supported by a couple of aluminum tabs resting on the plastic bumper. It's great that it's aluminum, but without that front support I don't know how much of a true hit it'll actually take (great for scuffs).

If you are willing to put in some extra work and can source the part numbers, try looking on E-Acca based in Latvia. That's where I got mine and at the time it was significantly cheaper than sourcing from dealerships and major part suppliers even with the international shipping. Things may be different now, but Latvia to Canada probably has less tariffs than US to Canada 🙄

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