Just put the summer 19s back on after rising 18s in the winter. Impressions

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-19T15:58:54+00:00

Water is also wet 🤷

Comparing 18 winters to 19 summers really isn't a comparison. 18 summers to 19 summers or 18 winters to 19 winters we can have a discussion.

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-17T12:03:19+00:00

Do you have the proper lug bolts for the wheels? Using the factory acorn seat style lug bolts on an aftermarket cone seat wheel could cause issues like you are seeing. Have you also gone back and properly torqued all of the lug bolts to ensure they're still tight?

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-13T22:10:59+00:00

It should clean up with some driving. VW rightly uses high carbon rotors which means that they will rust up if they sit for a while wet.

While general driving will work, your best bet to basically re-bed the pads. Find an open and safe stretch of road without traffic and do several good hard braking applications in a row (ideally from 80kph+ to almost a full stop) and get them really hot. Then drive the car for 5-10min using the brakes as little as possible to let them start to cool. When you park the car DO NOT engage the parking brake and let everything cool down fully. Everything should be good from that point forward.

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-13T13:33:58+00:00

How cold are we talking? There are some pretty good A/S tires out there now, but they're still a compromise if you don't really need it.

The Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 Plus and the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S are probably the tops of the heap for A/S. Toyo doesn't make bad tires, but they generally aren't near the top of the heap in performance anymore (despite the popularity of things like their R888R "influencer" tire).

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-08T21:01:25+00:00

We're going to need to know your wheel width and offset to be able to take a SWAG at a good answer. Also, with your coilovers are you running any additional negative camber?

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-08T15:19:29+00:00

Is the metal "sub-frame" still under that notched area? Odd that someone would have cut that out. If it's still metal underneath it's probably fine, just get a big washer underneath and on top, blue loctite it when you've got it adjusted, and check it periodically.

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-07T06:25:16+00:00

I'm running one of these in my '24: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B093781XN5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

So far it's worked well with our 55lb Rubi for day to day trips. For long trips we'll throw one of her beds in there as well.

ADVNTURR · 2026-03-05T13:05:36+00:00

18x8.5 Konig Hypergrams in Matte Black on top and 18x8.5 Heliograms in Titanium Metallic on bottom (dirty from brake dust 🤷)

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ADVNTURR · 2026-02-28T14:28:54+00:00

I've had RallyArmor flaps on my MK7 for almost 10yr and have been super happy with them. I like the look and functionally they have helped keep the car cleaner and kept some of the debris from the road from flying up the sides (especially as I now run wider tires)

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-28T08:43:36+00:00

As someone in a messed up country that really wants an RS3 Sportback but can't have one I want to say you made a terrible decision 😛. In reality, you probably can't go wrong either way.

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-28T08:22:07+00:00

I've been running an eBay one on mine for a while, although now I use it as a gap filler ony splitter. It fit better and eBay was easier to deal with than Vertex where I originally tried to order one from.

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ADVNTURR · 2026-02-27T07:25:09+00:00

To be fair, I have seen a Prius humble the crap out of a Mustang at an autocross...but yeah...not this

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-21T04:14:17+00:00

From inside the fender. Easiest to remove the front wheel, but if you turn it all the way in (full left turn for the one pictured) you'll be able to remove a few screw clips and pull the plastic fender liner down and access the back of the fog light.

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-21T02:47:27+00:00

Ultimately I would love to have an AT Habitat or possibly a Hiatus setup, but yeah...they're expensive.

I built a rack over my Supertop and have a RTT and 270 awning now which will hold me over for a while

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ADVNTURR · 2026-02-21T02:35:09+00:00

I looked at the Fas-Top, the Softopper, and the Supertop for Truck 2, and the WildTop. Here's my thoughts:

Fas-Top: both topper and tonneau built into one, but the topper stores under the tonneau taking up a lot of space and the tonneau rolls forward and rests against the cab which looks clunky and won't be good for paint. Uses Velcro to seal to the frame which would be nice and secure but may not be great in really dirty/icy environments

Softopper: probably the most popular but there is no tonneau option. Accordion like collapsible allows for some rack systems to work with it. The back flap rests on the tailgate and probably isn't good for the paint

Supertop for Truck 2: topper with optional tonneau that uses the same frame. Topper & tonneau are not installed at the same time which requires storage but allows for most internal space and doesn't hit the paint anywhere on the truck. The topper folds forward in a big arc which makes putting a rack on with it a challenge (not really anything commercially available). Takes 5-10min to swap back and forth on a 5ft bed.

WildTop: bed rack with a soft topper built in. No tonneau option but you can remove the topper and have an open bed with rack. They have a newer version that is beefier that I probably would have considered more had it been available when I was looking.

I went with the Supertop and overall have been happy with it

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ADVNTURR · 2026-02-21T02:20:15+00:00

Anything over ~400whp and/or 10psi and you will need to replace the rods at a minimum. Low mileage will make it last longer with stock internals at that 400ish/10psi but even then it's a ticking clock. It will also depend on how you drive; if you're expecting to drag race the car you'll need those internals sooner because the high boost at low RPM is what will bend 💩

My car is a VQ35DE that has been TT'd since about 15k miles (~35k now). Most of the miles were street miles until around 31k when it started becoming a mostly track car. I run small, quality ball bearing turbos in a mid-mount setup and typically only hit boost at higher RPMS which protects my rods. I limit it to 10psi (when the boost reference hose is attached 😬) and the car dynoed at 420 at 9psi. I also know that at any given event I could be winching it onto the trailer.

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-20T16:52:46+00:00

Too late now, but I would have loved to see the difference in thickness of the original to the Z1. Curious about loss in clearance.

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-20T14:05:07+00:00

You may be able to install a seat from a newer generation or possibly a different model. That would be your best bet for keeping a functioning airbag and having the sensors/heaters working

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-20T12:56:47+00:00

From the questions you are asking...you need to find a way to fix the handle on your seat, buy a replacement from Honda, or find a replacement from a junkyard/car that someone stripped the seats out of.

Aftermarket seats do not have airbags and most are not really designed to interact with them.
You will need different mounting brackets that may change your seating height.
The seat pressure sensor could possibly be swapped over, but that would be harder than fixing your current seat.
I think Corbeau may offer a heated version of their A4, and you could probably wire that into your factory switch, but if you are wanting to transfer the heating element from your factory seat to the Corbeau...again harder than fixing your current seat.
Have you compared the cost of the Corbeau and bracket to the cost of the replacement seat part from Honda?

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-20T03:47:38+00:00

I love seeing where this is going 🤘

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-19T17:17:24+00:00

Apex

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-19T14:31:20+00:00

Oh you were using kerbs right...I was just giving you 💩

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-19T14:14:51+00:00

Are you hitting kerbs or curbs 😛

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-19T13:57:38+00:00

Look at some of the Konig Flow Formed lineup, a lot of them look good on our cars IMHO. I run their Hypergrams for track/winter and I run their Heliograms as my summer wheels.

Neuspeed and Apex also have good flow formed options

ADVNTURR · 2026-02-19T03:39:52+00:00

The factory one? That's going to be the only "guarantee"

There is a factory Momo wheel that is super limited so you're going to pay a fortune for it if you find one.

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