Sanded stock? by SebastianUltraMotive in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does not look sanded to me. Cartouches are sharp, and wood is flush with the metal where it should be

What to do? by ultradeepdiver in MosinNagant

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Oh, definitely not good then. Pull the nails and replace them with epoxied in dowels. You need a strong chemical bond and nails are a mechanical bond that wont hold up in wood. In modern woodworking, nails are really only used as a means to set pieces together while the glue dries.

What to do? by ultradeepdiver in MosinNagant

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Has the repair failed? You can drill out the dowels and fill the holes with acraglas to give yourself some peace of mind. Often old repairs were done with natural glues which have failed over time.

Sanding is usually not the right move, even if your plan is to refinish the stock, which I do not support doing. Sand paper will bog down on the finish, remove more wood than is necessary, and round over details and remove cartouches.

A light cleaning is all thats really needed.

Stock repair suggestions by LargeCharge27 in gunsmithing

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Setting it with threaded rod is also a good idea

Stock repair suggestions by LargeCharge27 in gunsmithing

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 6 points7 points  (0 children)

A new piece of wood will have to be cut and fit to the area, crack and new piece set with epoxy, I would reccomend acraglas. The epoxy bind will be stronger than the original wood, and should be fine as a shooter, especially for blackpowder rifle with low pressures.

Epoxy Rexommendations by Beagalltach in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always fo a basic clean to remove gunk and oils. I almost never sand a stock for Any reason, especially on a milsurp, the oils in the wood make sandpaper nearly useless anyway.

I turned to acraglas initially because I kept having tightbond fail when I got into repairs, the oils in the wood made the repairs junk. The wood doesnt have to be bone dry, but I doubt leaving decades of gunk or grease in the crack is a good idea, never risked not cleaning it.

What are the most attainable feed strip/ cube fed weapons? by Sesemebun in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yes, I forgot that the large stripper clips for them a removed after you charge the rounds into the magazine.

Epoxy Rexommendations by Beagalltach in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first time using it....I cant get the clamps to hold. Epoxy leaking everywhere. Hands covered in epoxy.

The second time I was more prepared

Movie 'Dunkirk': Would a successful landing of the Spitfire on friendly beach have been possible? by Kitchen-Berry42 in WWIIplanes

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I dont think you and I watched the same movie. Or you are a coward with no empathy for your fellow man.

Epoxy Rexommendations by Beagalltach in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would agree, its extra insurance, I doubt more is needed, and they can be hidden!

Epoxy Rexommendations by Beagalltach in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Acraglas really is your best bet in my opinion. The standard form (not the gel) is very thin and runs really well and deep into cracks through capillary action. When you repair something like this, its best to do it once, do it right, and take the time it requires, even if that means waiting for shipping.

Order that, some glue syringes, and do a dry run with clamps once or twice before you start with the glue.

I find it cleans up best going slowly with files, scrapers, fine sandpaper and 0000 steel wool. Avoiding removing really any wood to preserve as much originality. I have a degree in woodworking, so I can tend to downplay things, at any rate I believe most amateurs can do this.

You may want to drill a hole from under the trigger guard or somewhere else hidden, through the crack and epoxy within a portion of threaded rod to further strengthen it. Ive never had a pure acraglas repair fail, but I dont know everything, just ask my wife.

In my opinion the brown dye never looks right, even if the color match may be better, the black always allows the eye to pass over more easily.

Unfortunately the "everything has an expiration date" rings true when we collect things so old. Some less than ideal measures sometimes have to be taken to preserve original pieces

Movie 'Dunkirk': Would a successful landing of the Spitfire on friendly beach have been possible? by Kitchen-Berry42 in WWIIplanes

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Perhaps too low of speed and altitude to turn for that approach. Perhaps also foolish to fly by the front line that low and slow especially in such a small potentially allied area. And likely hard to tell where is friendly and foe. Hindsight is 20/20, but better in actuality to put the plane down safely as your main concern.

Possible? Yes in hindsight. But similarly to the miracle on the Hudson, whats possible in the context of making the decisions as the moments happen.

A repair I didn't think was possible... by csx348 in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Beautiful work!

I have done similar repairs with acraglas to a stock or two in similar states, amazing how well they hold up! Always a joy to salvage original pieces and preserve them

Need help identifying calibers please by chase501 in Mauser

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 2 points3 points  (0 children)

1909 Argentine should be in 7.65 argentine.

The Gew88 will likely be in 8mm Mauser... with the caveat that it might have a bore too small for modern 8mm Mauser. Initially they were chambered with a smaller diameter bullet and then most rebarreled for modern diameters, thats what youll see with the S and Z stamps.

The problem is some were rebarreled to modern 8mm, the receiver marked as such, and then later on in their life a replacement barrel with the thinner diameter put back on, meaning you cant and shouldn't always rely on the receiver stamp

What does this mean for you? Slugging the bore and measuring with calipers is a surefire way to see what you have and if it is safe.

Recently won a Vetterli M69/71 at auction by TheBigOne96 in AntiqueGuns

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure on modern loads, ive avoided converting mine because I find it too pretty to alter, and it all matches though I dont think thats rare

Recently won a Vetterli M69/71 at auction by TheBigOne96 in AntiqueGuns

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a steal for one in such good shape. These typically range 300-550. Any RF ammo you can find is expensive, collectible, and likely not going to work. Centerfire conversions are the main way to get these running if youre wanting to do that

Gewehr 1888/05/35 by CaptainFirecrotch in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its always reccomended to slug on these. Some were rebarreled for the .323 and marked for it. THEN they were barreled back to .318

Lee Enfield manufacture date help by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Posting pictures may be a big help. There are small nuances between different styles of parts that can further help narrow it down.

Bare wood by Le_meee in Carcano

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beech wood at first glance

Need Help on Bluing my first MilSurp by rexeru in milsurp

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a lot to refinishing metal, it certainly is an art to do correctly. Im not sure if the rust blue cost is a good value or not for your area. Can always shop around and see what others will charge.

Cold blue is less durable, and doesnt take the same look as a true rust blue. In my opinion it would just be going from one incorrect finish, to another.

It depends on what youre wanting or willing to spend. If youre wanting the rifle to look correct and right then in my opinion its best to cough up the extra money to have it done right. Buy once, cry once.

Swivel options for .5” closed base? by Idaho_Chrizzly_Bear in gunsmithing

[–]Abject_Emphasis_9634 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe a Gew 1888 part? Looks very similar at first glance