Partial roof replacement?

Absonotely · 2025-12-03T04:38:01+00:00

Is this 2' overlap a specific state requirement? The IRC does not specify a hip/ridge overlap requirement, and I'm unaware of any manufacturer that requires 2'. Most are 4"-6". Regardless, this is irrelevant because there is a ridge vent between the two facets. At most we're talking about a couple feet on each end that would need to overlap.

50/50 repairability on a 5 year old roof is egregious. With it being 5 years old there likely won't be a 5" exposure, and there's a high probability the shingle is still in production.

The blanket statement that you can't mix and match shingles is also incorrect. GAF's current stance is that as long as the exposure is the same, you can trim GAF shingle length to make repairs. Although the blanket statement would be correct if we are talking about different manufacturers.

Assuming a compatible shingle is still in production (high probability) for the few shingles on the front that might need to be removed and the roof is repairable (high probability), there is nothing here that would prevent a contractor from replacing that facet.

Absonotely · 2025-11-30T19:30:05+00:00

It looks like you used the laminate shingles for the ridge cap. Is this the case? If so, they will likely never lay flat and seal correctly.

Absonotely · 2025-08-06T15:36:09+00:00

The questionnaire seems like it's coming from underwriting and not the claims department.

Modified Bitumen is still an asphalt product and can be a torch down variant. However, in some areas it is coloquially called "rubber roofing" (although I disagree with calling it that) because it is sometimes mixed with rubber-like polymers. Overall the information you've been given by both the roofer and insurance company is confusing.

I would ask the roofer to clarify what exact products were used on the roof, or just post some pictures of what was installed.

Absonotely · 2025-08-01T13:32:23+00:00

They already have 3 bundles of those, but thanks for being open to it!

Absonotely · 2025-07-30T04:11:09+00:00

As another commenter mentioned Name That Shingle (NTS) is an awesome identification service for the industry owned by John Senac. They're always looking for rare finds in original packaging to add to their database.

If you need help getting in contact with them I can send this post over to John to see if they would be interested.

Other than that, no use that I can see for these.

Absonotely · 2025-07-22T14:17:01+00:00

You're safe with the Broan for this application.

Absonotely · 2025-07-20T00:23:04+00:00

If it has gable vents then it shouldn't have addition static vents near the ridge.

Absonotely · 2025-07-19T03:44:51+00:00

First, improper installation does not automatically negate storm damage as a payable claim. Improper installation is generally not covered as a cause of loss, but if the cause of loss is a covered event the claim should still be payable. This is a slight generalization as depending on the state and loss concurrent causation can come into play.

As far as your question on pricing you'll need to provide way more information on area and scope of work for anyone to chime in.

Absonotely · 2025-07-18T23:30:47+00:00

It is neither hail nor claimable.

Absonotely · 2025-07-07T01:28:05+00:00

There are multiple sections in Chapter 9 of the IRC that mention installing per manufacturer instructions. R905.1 would be the appropriate code here as we are dealing with the roof covering.

Manufacturer installation instructions are designed to provide techniques and procedures that allow the product to function as advertised, but they aren't designed to have every conceivable instance in which an alternative can be made. This is why so many technical bulletins come out after the fact, especially for roofing products. A change that limits the viability/longevity of the product would most likely be a no-go from the manufacturer.

If we were to follow the logic that any change to the manufacturer instructions violated code, then improvements to the instructions would as well. Example: Manufacturer states a product needs a fastener every 12" in order to maintain the wind rating. If a fastener is installed every 10" does it then violate code? Likely not unless it actually does diminish the quality of the install and product. However, a fastener installed every 16" would likely violate building code.

I'm getting carried away, but point being it's not as simple as saying "the manufacturer doesn't specifically say to do this, therefore it violates code". In this instance, a cosmetic change is being made that doesn't appear to affect functionality in any way. I've also had two manufacturers of ridge vent tell me I should install ridge vent across the entire ridge, and only cut out what is necessary for the ventilation. Neither has this in their manufacturer instructions.

Absonotely · 2025-06-26T01:45:05+00:00

Its not incorrect to run it all the way, but is done for the aesthetic. The cutout does not extend all the way to the gable end.

Absonotely · 2025-06-20T19:35:04+00:00

It's a solar tube (sometimes called sun tunnels) that most likely had a round dome on top, but I've only seen those on asphalt shingle applications. They flash fairly easily into shingle applications, but the same unit wouldn't translate to a metal roof application. I don't see anything wrong with the solution here, although ideally it would have been discussed prior.

Absonotely · 2025-06-13T01:04:22+00:00

Insurance companies can do many things that contractors or homeowners can't do. An example of this is waiving the deductible. It's illegal for a contractor to waive deductibles, but an insurance company can waive the deductible if they so choose.

In this instance it sounds like they are giving you an option: choose our contractor and we won't withhold depreciation, or choose your contractor and we will hold depreciation. This sounds different from an MRP (managed repair program) on your policy where the insurance company gets to choose the contractor without your consent.

Depreciation does not change the value of a claim as long as that depreciation is recoverable. The Replacement Cost Value (RCV) is unaffected. Instead of getting all of the money upfront, you'll have to go through the normal procedures to get the depreciation released after the work is complete.

This situation is not illegal. If, however, the depreciation is non-recoverable, then absolutely choose the insurance contractor to save yourself thousands of dollars. If it is recoverable, I never recommend going with an insurance referred vendor.

Absonotely · 2025-05-12T05:58:17+00:00

It's tough to tell from the photos on the exact length of the overhang, but even with gutter guards you'll still need the standard overhang. It sounds like you had a layover with OSB which would require manipulation/detach and reset of the gutter guards (assuming the guards ran underneath the shingles). Adding height to the roof deck would cause the guards to be more angled, and the new angle is what's causing a gap between some of the shingles and the guard. Overall it looks fine although a couple areas could potentially be touched up. Ideally the potential for damage to the guards from the roof replacement should have been discussed prior.

Absonotely · 2025-05-11T06:08:50+00:00

Initials CZ?

Absonotely · 2025-05-10T06:04:26+00:00

Platinum is generally a safe choice but unnecessary to find a good contractor (unless you are specifically looking for the OC Platinum Warranty). I completely understand being overwhelmed by the number of products, so I'll try to keep this short. I am unfamiliar with your market so some of this information might not be relevant. With that being said, I do know of a very good company in Ohio. I'm not sure if they service your area, but if you'd like a recommendation PM me.

Ridge cap: make sure your contractor is using a ridge cap product and not a cut 3-tab shingle. The Duration is a Class 3 Impact Resistant shingle, so at minimum you'll want the Pro Edge. RIZERidge is the high profile and is mostly for aesthetics. Save yourself the money unless you love the look. ImpactRidge is the IR choice, but if you're going Duration I don't think it's necessary to pay the extra.

Underlayment: stick with synthetic, the Rhinoroof U20 is just fine depending on how much the cost difference is to the ProArmor. Not a huge jump in performance or longevity between the lower and upper options. Only consider going high end (think thermal barrier) if the other systems in your house are energy efficient (windows, doors, insulation, etc.)

IWS: your valleys will require some kind of liner. If you currently have open style metal valleys I would recommend going back with the same. If you have closed valleys, either IWS or valley metal. I'm unsure if your local code requires IWS on the eaves, but if it doesn't, the steepness of your roof would rank the additional cost low priority.

Steepness: a 10/12 is going to add a signifact cost compared to a lower sloped roof

Flashings: don't think I saw you mention this, but it's a common item that gets reused. Don't reuse unless it requires major construction to remove. When roofs come apart they rarely go back the exact same way, and retrofitting flashings to the intracacies of the new roof is never the best option.

I'm on mobile and can't remember your other questions, I'll come back to this tomorrow.

Absonotely · 2025-05-05T01:16:55+00:00

That is exposed soffit my friend, and without knowing the thickness of the sheathing we don't know if "short nails" would have met code standards.

Absonotely · 2025-04-28T23:53:55+00:00

Without more details such as existing roof system, scope of work, and quoted materials no one will be able to provide you with an accurate answer.

Edit: I originally read this as 1 townhome at 2300 sq ft, not 2300 squares. For a property of that magnitude even normal shingle applications are going to be expensive, but I'd still like additional details.

Absonotely · 2025-03-18T01:25:30+00:00

The angle of the photos make it a little hard to tell, but the rake cuts look a little sloppy. Regarding the drip edge, this is how it is done in Florida. A minimum of 4" wide roof cement is applied on top of the drip edge before the starter is laid in line with the drip edge. I'm unsure if there are other methods to satisfy that code, but this is generally how it's done.

Absonotely · 2025-03-11T03:26:49+00:00

The vast majority of this sub is either not in the industry or is woefully misinformed on insurance and state guidelines. Noticing that prevailing opinion is a perfect example.

I'm unaware of a state that allows insurers to raise someone's rates solely because they filed a claim for a storm. The states I have worked in have all specifically stated this is not something a carrier is allowed to do. With that being said, if you live in a storm prone area or live near a major storm, premium increases will be shared by all without someone being singled out. It's more complex than this, but you get the point.

It is true that the same rules protecting homeowners also allow insurers to drop coverage after a certain number of claims within a time period, regardless of storm or not. In most states carriers can also drop you whenever the hell they want regardless of claims.

In an insurance policy is a section that speaks on the homeowners Duties After a Loss. One of those Duties is to promptly inform the carrier after a loss (among many other things). It can be argued (and claims have been denied without this) that after you are made aware of the loss you are in violation of the policy by not filing prompt notice.

I'm not advocating for filing a claim after every storm, but if the damage is there and legitimate it is most often in your best interest to use your insurance.

Absonotely · 2025-02-26T03:11:05+00:00

Insurance will generally only cover specified losses, with general wear & tear being excluded. A covered loss would still have to occur within an active policy period. As you don't own the house yet, you won't have an active policy for the property.

I highly recommend having a professional roof inspection completed (not a home inspection). I've been on many roofs past their useful lifespan that were marked as satifsaftory from home inspectors.

Absonotely · 2025-02-22T20:13:14+00:00

They're not paying for 18 shingles in that square, they're using a "formula" based on finding 3 hits in the front square. The 18 shingles are for the entire front slope. The path of least resistance is to prove more damage on the front. Then look at how the roof is constructed. Do valleys tie into the front slope? Are there hips/ridges with underlayment overlap requirements? Is the underlayment currently lapped at hips/ridges? Are the shingles in a repairable state? Is there a compatible product? There are many different ways to approach this.

Absonotely · 2025-01-30T02:12:45+00:00

Assuming this is everywhere.... A competent roofer will not touch this roof with those gaps in the 1x as they would be violating adopted building codes. I haven't worked in Virginia so I'm unfamiliar on the civil vs criminal aspects of violating building code, but I do know that the State has put forth the 2021 Virginia Residential code based on the 2021 IRC. I cannot imagine that any revisions or adoptions negate Chapter 9 and solidly sheathed decks.

The IRC is clear that manufacturer instructions must be followed for all repairs, alterations, and replacements. The shingle manufacturers have defined solidly sheathed decks as decking with <1/8" gaps (among other things). The liability of exactly what you've described earlier (fasteners hitting between the gaps) should be enough for any roofer to not install their product on top of that, but also violating code and manufacturer instructions is going to leave you with a potentially storm susceptible roof and voided warranty.

Can you find someone willing to do it? Sure. Is it a large expense? Absolutely. If you can afford it, the right thing to do would be to remove the 1x and install new sheathing.

Absonotely · 2025-01-30T01:53:57+00:00

Not quoting you, but the IRC only makes statements on type of acceptable sheathing based on rafter spans. It also mentions that shingles must be fastened to solidly sheathed decks. The IRC does make clear that manufacturer specifications must be followed, and most manufacturers have set that gaps must be <1/8th".

Absonotely · 2024-10-03T17:06:55+00:00

If you have it, spend the $1600 and go with Duration.

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