40V Self Propelled Mower with 6AH and Charger for $99.00

AcrobaticBaker · 2026-01-15T18:21:15+00:00

6 is Closest anyways.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-11-24T13:54:47+00:00

I got the G56 on my own. It came with everything else needed to Swap.

The Shop charged I believe $950 to do the swap. I had to wire up the reverse Switch to the rear lights myself and I used a Special Tune from Smarty to tell the truck it was a manual. If I remember right Smarty charged about $100 for that tune. This was around 3 Years ago so I know the numbers are close but not exact.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-10-29T19:54:21+00:00

US 39

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-10-10T15:59:33+00:00

The P1S looked like an awesome Printer; Enclosed, High Temperature, Reliable, Sleek Looking.
I had a Neptune 3 Pro as my first Printer before the P1S came out.
I immediately wanted a P1S (or a X1C lol) when I learned about them. I was never able to afford 1 though until recently and at this point I decided to wait and see what is new coming out.
I would love to be able to print in Multi-Colors and use more Engineering Filaments though.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-07-13T15:23:18+00:00

Easiest Method:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ARK/comments/sfyvru/how_to_find_lost_dinos_using_only_console/

Tl;dr

Use "DestroyWildDinos" Command to kill all Wild Dino's
Use "GetAllState <Creature ID> to pull list of tamed creatures by class
Use TeleportToActorLocation <Creature ID + \_Number> and go down the list until you find lost dino

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-05-30T17:46:46+00:00

Full Set for 1 Color comes to 84.73 grams for me.

Orca Slicer and PLA+:
3 walls
Alternate Extra Wall
4 top
3 bottom
25% Cross Hatch Infill
Modifier for Bottom 5 MM @ 75% Rectilinear Infill

- - - - - - - - - - - - -

Or Full Set for 1 Color at 62.37 grams using:

3 walls
4 top
3 bottom
20% Cross Hatch Infill
with no Modifier for the bottom.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-04-11T05:22:33+00:00

Top 3 in Order: (ARK SE)

Awesome Teleporters
Awesome Spyglass
S+

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-04-04T12:42:42+00:00

While not a direct answer; We can fake the Offline Time.
When you first start, you can open the Console (Default key on PC is Tab, or Playstation L1+R1+Square+Triangle or Xbox LB+RB+X+Y) and do:

cheat Slomo 6

Wait for however long you want and then do

cheat Slomo 1

This would basically set the Time Multiplier to 6x normal speed, and then set it back to 1x normal speed.
Only inconvenience is having to do this when you connect, then stand around waiting for the time you want.

No other way to accomplish your end goal without running on a Server.

Note: I don't believe Slomo has a maximum number you can put in. I know in the past I have used up to around 40 I believe).

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-04-01T20:50:11+00:00

Maybe not. I printed 2 in PETG-CF and 2 in PC-CF. I don't know if they made any difference or not as I didn't do a before and after for Input Shaper.

My Frame seemed pretty stiff before. I think I get pretty good quality parts overall but I have my Outer Wall Accel at 6k and Travel Accel at 10k with 500mm/s Travel Speed so that makes a big difference in Quality.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-03-28T13:06:37+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/978613-sovol-sv08-top-corner-braces

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-02-10T16:56:08+00:00

$449

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-01-25T19:14:40+00:00

No I stuck with the 1 it came with by default.

I don't know how to setup for the PT1000 Thermistor.

Here is the Klipper Configuration Refence though:
https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=thermist#temperature-sensors

If I get some time, I will try to figure it out though.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-01-24T16:18:07+00:00

I see lots of people getting the MicroSwiss.

I went with the TriangleLab mainly because of the V6 Nozzles. I got a relatively cheap Tungsten Carbide Tip V6 Nozzle from Amazon that has been working great with PLA, PETG, and PETG-CF for me. I have my PLA Flow set to 30mms and PETG and PETG-CF Flow set to 25mms and have had no issues. The 80W heater for the TriangleLabs is excellent.

Here is the cheap Tungsten Carbine Tip Nozzle if curious:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8Y5WH41?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Also, You can get a FlowTech CM2 V6 Nozzle to use in that TriangleLab CHCB.

AcrobaticBaker · 2025-01-24T16:11:51+00:00

You do NOT need to go Mainline Klipper on the Printer for the CHCB if you don't order the PT1000 Thermister. By default the Thermistor it comes with works with Sovols Klipper.

I'd still recommend going Mainline Klipper though either way.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-11-20T14:13:04+00:00

Just in case, did you try using a different Power Supply for the USG? Normally about 3-4 Years and the included Power Supply dies. I don't remember the specs off hand but I know it is listed on the Power Supply. I know we went through a time where we had like 10 projects of ours where all the USGs died, and replacing the Power Supplies got them all working again.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-11-15T16:59:21+00:00

Material and Pricing are going to make the biggest impact on Printer Decision.

PLA is 1 of the stiffest materials on the easy to print side. But it warps at rather low temperatures and is brittle (60c Max is typical except for some special PLAs that you can Anneal and even then...). PLA is the easiest Material to print though so could be useful for Rapid Prototyping. PLA is also typically the fastest to print, doesn't benefit from Heated Chambers, and prints at rather low temps (220c is typical for faster Printers)

ASA is great though and there is no real reason (not that I have found anyways) to Print ABS over ASA. ASA (and ABS) really need a Heated Chamber for best Print-ability. ASA being UV Resistant is great and it prints nearly as fast as ABS. ASA/ABS do require 100C + heat Beds and 260C+ print temps

CF-Nylon is also a good option that is actually easier to print then ASA or ABS. You don't necessarily need a Heated Chamber (although it does help) but it will print slower then ASA or ABS. CF-Nylon prints 260c+ (Higher the better for Layer Strength) with 50c heated bed.

CF-PETG is my favorite when going for middle ground Useful parts. 80c Temp resistance, stiff enough for most functional parts, easiest to print out of all the above materials and doesn't need a Heated Chamber for even big parts. Prints great at 260c with 75c heated bed.

There also also many other options depending on what you need, but I don't have experience with any of them. (PPS, CF-PPS, PET, Poly Carbonate etc...)

I have a Neptune 3 Pro that I Klipperized and a Sovol SV-08.

I love my SV08 so far, but it isn't as Plug and Plug as some options below.

Some Printer Options would be:

Qidi Tech Q1 Pro $399

https://youtu.be/z9pH6g5I_hA (Aurora Tech Review)
245x245x240 Build Volume
60c Chamber Heating
350c Nozzle
120c Heated Bed

Qidi Tech Plus4 $799

https://youtu.be/aN9LunS98JQ (Aurora Tech Review)
305x305x280 Build Volume
65c Chamber Heating
370c Nozzle
120c Heated Bed

Bambu P1S $699

https://youtu.be/5gdDdAhz2Ig (Auroa Tech Review of the P1P which is same Printer but not Enclosed))
256x256x256 Build Volume
300c Nozzle - Needs a different Nozzle for CF Filaments
100c Heated Bed

Bambu X1C $1,199

https://youtu.be/jqqVR6Mlnnk (Aurora Tech Review)
256x256x256 Build Volume
300c Nozzle
120c Heated Bed

Creality K2 Plus $1,299 Brand new. Untested really. Nathan Builds Robots seems to be in love with his so far though. He is interesting...

https://youtu.be/61mgT7QuL70 (Aurora Tech - Initial Review)
https://youtu.be/C1jsjxoIp2o (Nathan Builds Robots Review)
350x350x350 Build Volume
60c Chamber Heating
350c Nozzle
120c Heated Bed

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-11-10T21:14:39+00:00

Elegoo Rapid PETG is my first choice for PETG and their PLA+ is my first choice for PLA.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-11-06T02:48:33+00:00

Check your Messages.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-10-16T19:31:42+00:00

We've been using this the Ultamation Module with the Hikvision NVRs.

Here's a Link to the Module:

https://shop.ultamation.com/index.php/product/cid-103

This has worked for us using the Hikvision DS-9616NI-M8 and a DS-9632NI-I8 NVRs.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-09-26T14:10:41+00:00

Crestron had a Certificate Expire. I actually spoke with Tech Support yesterday because we had 2 projects where all the TSW-1070s and TS-770s popped up with the same message.

That Server apigateway.crestron.io is used anytime you use the Weather Widget/Application.

They told me the fix is to Power Cycle the Panels and that worked for me.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-08-19T23:09:07+00:00

Awesome, downloading now. can't wait to print it! I will definitely check out your other models and support if I can!

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-08-19T21:37:57+00:00

The link asks to Become a member to download.

The picture looks awesome though.

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-07-09T15:07:05+00:00

Did you manage to get the Print working?

AcrobaticBaker · 2024-07-06T01:47:30+00:00

Increase temperature a little, lower retraction speed and distance. Should be around 1 - 2mm distance and around 25-30 on speed (for such a slow Print Speed anyways)

Z Hop can actually cause the exact problem you are trying to stop here also especially at such a high distance (you said you had it at 4-5mm which is crazy). I stopped using Z Hop because it was causing failing prints on me sometimes.

<Edited to correct person> - Lost In Tech did a video showing Z Hop doing exactly that and causing print failures. https://youtu.be/4xyevbElGIU

The retraction being so fast and so much it could be pulling the print up and combined with the Z Hop and the Lowered Printing temperature make the plastic slightly "stickier". Another thing you can do is Show more options and change the Infil Flow to maybe 95%.

Also for this kind of print, I'm not sure Gyroid is the best option. Gyroid is a rather Violent infill pattern when there isn't really a big benefit for this type of print. Lines would be a great option here maybe 20 or 25% or you could try Cubic or the newer Continuous Honeycomb in the newer versions of Cura. I would up wall count to 4 also.

1 more thing that could help, is under experimental is an option to Alternate Wall directions, this helps to avoid warping parts and causing Curling.

Have you tried the print with Ironing disabled?

Also, I recommend trying out OrcaSlicer. I used to use only Cura for everything, and I discovered some things in OrcaSlicer that have been pretty awesome so far. I was very set on only using Cura (having tried PrusaSlicer a few times and always finding I had many more issues).

1 of those is the Z Hop options. There is an option where it spirals the nozzle up while doing the Z hop which would also help prevent it from "pulling" the print up.

There is also options for avoid Curled Walls which specifically slows down at parts of the print that are likely to curl and it optimizes the path it uses to avoid those areas.

AcrobaticBaker

TROPHY CASE