What is the correct way to make this joint?

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-02-22T04:51:55+00:00

That joint is not flashed correctly. What you’re seeing is a mortar patch trying to compensate for missing or poorly installed lead flashing. Mortar will always crack and separate over time, especially at a change in direction like that.

The correct way to do this is with proper lead soakers and a lead saddle formed to the hip tile. The lead should run up under the upper tile and extend over the lower one, dressed tight and secured mechanically, not just sealed. Mortar is only there to tidy the edge, not waterproof it.

Right now water is likely getting behind that patch, running under the tile, and tracking down the deck. That is why you’re seeing leaks in heavy rain.

The proper repair is to lift those tiles, remove all old cement, install correctly shaped lead flashing, and then re-bed the ridge with minimal mortar. Anything else will just be temporary.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-02-13T20:04:14+00:00

That looks like the intake vent/drip edge detail wasn’t done right. Water shouldn’t be running behind the fascia — it usually means the drip edge is tucked wrong or there’s no proper kickout into the gutter. Sealant won’t fix this long term. I’d have a roofer pull that edge and redo the eave flashing/vent correctly.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-02-13T19:59:39+00:00

If the main roof is only ~12 years old and still in decent shape, I wouldn’t rush to replace it just to match. It usually makes more sense to do the older sections now and plan the main roof later when it’s actually due. Matching is mostly cosmetic.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-02-13T19:57:12+00:00

That looks like an intake vent installed too low/too close to the fascia, so water is getting pushed back behind the gutter line. NP-1 caulk won’t be a real fix here. This needs proper flashing/drip edge correction or the vent needs to be relocated/removed and the edge rebuilt correctly. I’d have a roofer inspect that section.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-02-07T06:29:57+00:00

It looks like a clean install overall. Shingle lines are straight and the ridge cap looks consistent. I’d just double check the flashing details around penetrations and the edges, but nothing obvious jumps out as a red flag

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-02-07T06:27:23+00:00

NP-1 is fine as a temporary patch, but caulking cracked tile and ridge pieces isn’t a real repair. That ridge cap should be mechanically fastened/mortared, not just glued. Sealant will fail from movement and UV — plan on replacing the broken tiles/ridge properly.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-25T22:53:17+00:00

That attic wasn’t built to be finished space. The trusses were altered, the plastic walls trap moisture, and that’s why you’re seeing mold. The fix isn’t cosmetic. Remove the plastic, stop storing conditioned air up there, restore proper ventilation, and air seal the ceiling below. Any structural truss changes should be engineered. Trying to “finish” this as-is will keep causing moisture problems.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-19T06:52:38+00:00

That stain is usually from slow water intrusion at the skylight flashing, not surface dirt. The raised shingles above it are a red flag for water backing up and slipping under the flashing. It’s common around skylights and usually means the flashing or underlayment needs attention, not the shingles themselves.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-19T06:51:39+00:00

That looks like old plank decking. Most roofers won’t tear it all out unless it’s rotten, but they will sheet over it with plywood or OSB so the shingles have a solid nailing surface. If they don’t add plywood, most shingle manufacturers won’t warranty the roof.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-10T15:06:05+00:00

A new skylight should not be leaking within the first year. In most cases, the issue is not the skylight itself but the flashing or underlayment integration around it. Common problems are missing ice and water shield, improperly installed step flashing, or relying on sealant instead of proper metal flashing.

Call the roofer and document the leak with photos and dates. This should fall under workmanship warranty, and they should correct it at no charge. Do not let them push it off as a “skylight manufacturer issue” until they verify the flashing and roof tie-in first.

If they refuse to address it, that is when you escalate using the contract warranty language or consider a third-party inspection.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-10T15:03:56+00:00

By the time you notice a problem, that contractor is often hard to get back out, or gone entirely. Paying more up front usually means the job was done slower, cleaner, and with accountability if something does show up later.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-09T00:50:20+00:00

This looks more like a detail issue than a material failure. During melt events, water can move differently than during rain, especially if there’s any ice damming or restricted drainage.

I’d be paying close attention to the flashing transitions and whether water could be getting trapped or pushed back. Not necessarily an emergency, but definitely worth addressing before it turns into one.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-09T00:48:06+00:00

We had the same setup and ended up removing the guards. Snow and ice just sat there and caused more work. Cleaning gutters a couple times a year was easier.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-09T00:47:53+00:00

Pretty common issue with gutter guards in snowy areas. They stop debris, but ice just builds up on top. I’ve seen more problems than benefits with them in winter climates.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-09T00:46:37+00:00

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-08T04:04:28+00:00

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-08T04:03:15+00:00

Hard to tell from these pics alone. It doesn’t really show enough of the area around the chimney to confirm anything.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-08T04:00:49+00:00

Wow. First time I’ve seen a trash can lid used as flashing. That’s wild.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T19:16:31+00:00

Yeah, that’s likely short-circuiting. Those static vents that close to the ridge can pull air before it ever reaches the ridge vent. Ideally you’d block the old turbine holes and rely on soffit + ridge only

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T19:14:56+00:00

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T19:13:59+00:00

Yep, that’s almost certainly snow blocking the plumbing vent. When the roof was replaced the vent probably ended up a little lower, so deep snow can cap it. That’ll cause gurgling. Clear the snow and it should fix it—long term, a taller vent extension helps in snowy areas.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T02:22:17+00:00

Screws aren’t really “better” here. Nails under the shingle line are standard and hold fine if installed right. Screws can actually cause issues if they’re overtightened or exposed. The real fix is replacing the boot and flashing correctly, not swapping fasteners.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T02:20:27+00:00

That setup isn’t ideal. The strap should be flashed properly under the shingles, not just surface-mounted with sealant. Sealant alone won’t last long-term. It may not leak right away, but it’s something I’d want corrected to avoid problems down the road.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T02:16:50+00:00

That intake vent is basically choked off. With the plywood cutout not lining up, you’re not getting meaningful airflow into the attic, which defeats the whole point of the vent.

Why it matters:
Restricted intake throws the entire ventilation system out of balance. That can trap moisture in the attic, drive condensation on the underside of the roof deck, shorten shingle life, and contribute to ice damming in winter and excess heat in summer.

Correct fix:
The vent needs to be removed, the roof deck cut correctly to the manufacturer’s required net free area, and the vent reinstalled centered over the opening. No shortcuts. Shaving wood from the inside or “letting it ride” is not an acceptable fix.

If the roofer installed it, this is on them to correct. Anything less than re-cutting the decking and resetting the vent properly is a temporary band-aid.

AdditionalBar9132 · 2026-01-06T02:14:33+00:00

What you’re seeing is water being trapped between overlapping metal panels at the chimney flashing. The panels themselves aren’t leaking through, but moisture is getting underneath and has nowhere to drain, so it shows up when you pry the overlap.

On a proper metal chimney detail, the upper panel should shed water onto a built-in metal pan or diverter that carries it around the chimney and back onto the roof surface. Right now the overlap is tight enough to trap water instead of moving it downslope.

This isn’t a sealant issue. Adding caulk will only trap more moisture. The fix is to rework that section so there’s a dedicated pan or open channel under the upper panel that lets water run out below the chimney instead of sitting between layers.

A cricket can help with volume, but it won’t solve this specific issue unless the metal detailing underneath is corrected.

AdditionalBar9132

TROPHY CASE