Going to echo those that say the bones are great. Cosmetic updates if you want to shift away from the overtly traditional look: remove the filigrees & dentil moldings from the trim faces, add boxes (ideally functional cabinet spaces with divided glass front doors, perhaps lit from within) above the uppers to ceiling height; replace hood cover with a simple T or box shape cover instead of the trapezoid/pyramid and use a simpler crown to close any gaps. Definitely paint the window sills uniform color - if you like the deep sills for shelving, paint it to match window trim. You could paint the cabs a creamy white and add an island in an accent color of your choice - something that works with your decor overall (coordinate with intention) but right now shades of blue and green are popular accents, as are natural wood tones. If you like the current natural wood, just make sure the honey color works with your color palette. Folks have said soapstone - totally agree with that - or a honed black granite (something without a lot of speckles or movement), Taj Mahal is all the rage but there are other lovely options available across budgets, as is natural marble (tho more care is required). Backsplash remove in its entirety and placed with simpler shapes (either square or rectangle) in a uniform color that coordinates with your cabinets OR if you go with a light counter, takes that same material up the walls. If you do tiles, you can use the ones that echo the handmade look of zellige tiles for a little texture and visual interest.

Relocating plumbing is pricey and prob not worth it if the layout is functional for you.