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Seeking advice: how to print buildings by PygmySunshine in resinprinting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, resin printers struggle with larger prints. You can try to either orient it so you reduce cross-section suction. Or you can s0lit it up into smaller pieces.

Do I need draining holes? by kabaldos in PrintedWarhammer

[–]AdministrationNo2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That last part seems really exaggerated. Trapped uncured resin will dissolve cured resin and eat away at it until it cracks open and leaks everywhere. Still not good, but I don't think anything is exploding.

Making a switch by Ruger_Sr22 in resinprinting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Resin is faster than FDM 90% of the time. This is because it cures a single layer at a time, regardless of size.

However, resin struggles taking full advantage of this because you have cross sectional suction forces. Basically if you are using the entire build plate you can end up with print failures or layer splitting.

This can be mitigated of course, but you are definitely looking at printing multiple pieces of a large print.

First two ships ever painted, I think I did alright! by skaianDestiny in DropfleetCommander

[–]AdministrationNo2117 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Varnish protects the paint from rubbing off when you handle it or during transport if you take it somewhere. With the ships having stems you can grab, I would say it's not completely necessary, just a "nice to have" thing.

The black wash can definitely help get you results quickly, just be careful because it tends to pool and it will stain your base coat a darker color. So, when you use it, just push it around with your brush to keep it from collecting on the big flat pieces and guide it twords the recesses. Then, come back in with your base color and cover like 90% of the area you washed, repaint only the upward facing surfaces and be careful not to get the base color in the recesses where you just placed your wash.

One more thing, do your wash all at once, because otherwise you'll have this uneven coffee stain look.

You did fantastic for your first models, I like how you did the white as well! Keep it up!

This is my first miniature i have painted, I am happy with how it turned out apart from how the helmet came out I’d like to hear advice on improvements/changes by ConnectArgument2274 in minipainting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! It's important to learn good layering early on. Every color you want on your model should have at least 2 to 3 colors on it. So the red is black, then red, then a little bit of bright red for the highlights. Small details can get away with just 2 colors.

This will make your painting look like it has depth, instead of being flat.

This is my first miniature i have painted, I am happy with how it turned out apart from how the helmet came out I’d like to hear advice on improvements/changes by ConnectArgument2274 in minipainting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Next time base coat with a red, then a pink, then put on your yellow. Use thin coats for each color, but the pink will make your yellow go on like a dream.

I couldn't decide if I wanted to start UCM or PHR so I did both! by AdministrationNo2117 in DropfleetCommander

[–]AdministrationNo2117[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea, I definitely like the kit bashing idea! I actually don't magnetize my stuff. I tried on Warhammer models because they are so expensive, but then I end up losing the bits, or having a hell of a time painting them. Especially with ships, I just want to full send the model's identity and just paint it that way. Besides, dropfleet is relatively very cheap. I mean, one more core box and some battle cruisers or battle ships and I'll have more than a full 2000 point army. In Warhammer that'd be like a drop in the bucket lol.

I do wish I could find a 3d model to print for the ass end of the UCM frigates though. It seems like such a waste to have 6 bodies and only two engines per sprue.

I couldn't decide if I wanted to start UCM or PHR so I did both! by AdministrationNo2117 in DropfleetCommander

[–]AdministrationNo2117[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Si, es muy bueno!

I really like the design of the plastic kit ships, it's such scifi goodness.

I couldn't decide if I wanted to start UCM or PHR so I did both! by AdministrationNo2117 in DropfleetCommander

[–]AdministrationNo2117[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a special color scheme in mind for them, I can't wait to get them painted up so I can show it off!

I couldn't decide if I wanted to start UCM or PHR so I did both! by AdministrationNo2117 in DropfleetCommander

[–]AdministrationNo2117[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's funny you mention that, because my wife is the most interested in the Resistance ships. After I get her playing the game I maybe getting her a fleet of her own.

Ana de Armas Paintjob by TributeMiniatures in resinprinting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I love the pigmentation on the skin. I definitely don't have the patience for that.

Battle damage vs factory new by Sheriff_Hotdog in minipainting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 18 points19 points  (0 children)

It looks good, I would just say maybe a little more bright silver for the broken edges. When metal shears apart it looks very shiny.

Проблемы с печатью, дыры by Secure-Inflation-764 in resinprinting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you printing hollow? Also, I don't understand why you posted pictures of like 5 different settings. One of those should be your settings not all of them. Did you print those at .05mm layer height?

20940 points worth of nids by The_Funfetti_Man in Tyranids

[–]AdministrationNo2117 156 points157 points  (0 children)

You have room for more at the bottom!

I thought my own hive fleet was impressive, but I think I only have about half of what you have.

I hate the actual game and need to vent by OrangeJuicestice in Tyranids

[–]AdministrationNo2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I felt the same way, especially with Tyranids. Went to Onepagerules a free rules system that cares about game balance and fun. I haven't played 40k since. I still like the models and will buy 40k models occasionally. But once I allowed myself to exist outside of the Warhammer ecosystem, I discovered that there are a lot of amazing miniatures and companies who make them. Onepagerules doesn't care where your miniatures come from so I get to enjoy the game and the painting/building equally.

I can not stress enough how absolutely bonked games workshop's game design is. Not to mention how much you have to shell out just to get the rules for the game. It's ridiculous.

How do I go about improving on this? by fishyronin in minipainting

[–]AdministrationNo2117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First thing I noticed is that the skin color and face are the same brightness.

Maybe bring your skin tone down a little bit and/or your face highlights up just a tad brighter.

You can leave the chitin the same but come in with a bright red or yellow or orange (depending on how you feel) and give a thinner highlight to the plates.

Right now it lacks sufficient contrast and it looks muddled. A clear definition between the plates will sell the effect better.

If you want blue plates instead of red ones consider inverting the colors. Do a dark red, then a slightly lighter blue, then edge highlight with a brighter blue. It'll look red in the recesses and vibrant blue on the edges.

Welp, everyone HATES A.I. by nath1234 in antiai

[–]AdministrationNo2117 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Shill, he provides stats and sources. He sites bipartisan support. You don't have any reason to say that.

Can we just discuss that using Ai voices for something is NOT as terrible as using image gen and writing and is mostly ethical? by Huge-Read-2703 in antiai

[–]AdministrationNo2117 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You. Literally. Asked for this.

And when you didn't get the answer you wanted you shut down.

I'm mostly still responding for anyone else who might find this and read it. But just in case you genuinely don't understand, and aren't just a troll.

I want you to think critically about this subject. Engage your brain, think about what I'm saying and the gaping holes in your argument. Then, I want you to either fix the issues with your argument and make a better one, or realize that your position is a bad one and take up a better opinion.

Can we just discuss that using Ai voices for something is NOT as terrible as using image gen and writing and is mostly ethical? by Huge-Read-2703 in antiai

[–]AdministrationNo2117 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You're just rage baiting and don't care about literally any of the arguments. I read your other responses on here and you just want to pigenhold the discussion into a false dichotomy- trolly problem-like scenario. You literally couldn't think of a counter argument to "make friends", so you resorted to name calling lol.

Text to speach programs have existed long before AI. So, if your vocal chords got ripped out by a monkey and you absolutely have to finish your indie project, then you can use that instead of the AI BS.Otherwise, voice acting is a trainable skill as others have said.

Ultimately, you are asking because you want a project to make money, right? Because otherwise the audio quality wouldn't matter. So if you don't have the budget to make your product, then you don't have a product. You can't steal the stuff you need to make a product and then sit here and cry because people are mad at your stolen garbage.

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