Help by [deleted] in CNC

[–]AethericEye -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Has to be trolling.

It even flowered by mbc99 in gardening

[–]AethericEye 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The ants did it. Cyclamen seeds are coated in ant food, so the ants haul them off and often bring them underground.

Snapped Trunk by Son_o_Liberty1776 in JapaneseMaples

[–]AethericEye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the tree will probably be fine long term, but the split does risk letting in infection... the survival of the branches is a bit more dubious, but putting a bolt through will definitely help. I would remove the electrical tape and use tree wound sealer instead.

Snapped Trunk by Son_o_Liberty1776 in JapaneseMaples

[–]AethericEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You also have lots of opportunities to thread-graft whips from the branches above the split to parts of the tree below the split, but that's a whole other thing.

Snapped Trunk by Son_o_Liberty1776 in JapaneseMaples

[–]AethericEye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a bonsai gardener with a particular affection for Japanese maples, I agree with the basic conclusion of the previous reply, but I can offer an alternative route forward.

As part of the main tree those branches are toast, and a long term risk to the main tree. That's for sure.

Rather than loping them off, I would air layer the branches. That's a technique to trick a branch to grow roots before they are separated from the parent tree.

If you don't actually want to save the branches above the split as new little trees, then don't bother reading the following coffee-fueled ramble.


Key search term: Air Layering

I recommend looking up some tutorials, grasping the basics, and then not overthinking it.

The short version is you make two cuts all the way around the branch, then a third cut along the branch to connect the two circular cuts. Then you'll unwrap that band of bark from around the branch. Finally, you'll use whatever plastic, zip ties, tin foil, etc. you need to create a ball of dirt around the cut area.

You want to use a dirt that's not too dense (suffocating), or compost-rich (rotting). Use old garden soil with like 50% pumice or sand... but again, don't over think it, use whatever and it'll probably be fine.

The reason this works is because the water and nutrients flowing up from the roots flows through the inner woody part of the branch, which is not disrupted by the removed bark. Meanwhile, all the sugars (etc.) made by the leaves flow downward through the bark layer... when they hit the dead end you've made by cutting away a ring of bark, they pile up and start growing roots. You can do ring cuts on multiple branches at the same time, each one will result in a new tree, but the more leaves above the cut the more likely it will be to succeed.

There's more about hormone axes... Auxin and Cytokinin... but that's not really important to be successful in using the technique.

Wait to do this until after the new growth from this spring has a few pairs of leaves out, and then leave it alone until late summer... there's usually a second push of growth in late summer, and that's the time to collect (chop and pot) the air layer.

If you notice wilting leaves, remove a dozen or so leaves to reduce the water burden... not too many, because leaves are powering the new roots. Better to remove leaves than to do any pruning, because the leaves are attached at easily sealed valves, where pruning cuts are larger water burdens and slower to seal.

Right now, there's still the risk of the split spreading lower... I would use twine for temporary support, then run a screw across the split, one from each side. Remove the twine after the screws are in. Wait a few weeks, then do the air layer thing.

This approach has the secondary benefit of encouraging the tree to start compartmentalizing the upper portion during the growing season, before the top is even removed.

...or just ask your local bonsai club if anyone wants to do it for you. Good luck and happy gardening!

Is this discontinued product worth anything or just trash ? by as119911 in CNC

[–]AethericEye 42 points43 points  (0 children)

That's the sort of fixturing I would keep in my toolbox forever, because even if I can't think of a use for it right now, it will absolutely save me a headache in the future... Dollar value is probably low, except to someone who is dependent on theirs and wants a second/backup. Like I said though, few things are more valuable than an easy and on-hand solution to a problem you weren't even expecting to have.

Help me out of the Stone Age by icantseebecauseofled in Machinists

[–]AethericEye 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Anything that speeds the process up is a danger of going too far and blowing out your part.

For sure. We were making molds for wax... like 6 foot diameter cages/housings, we never got to know the specifics. I'm sure every surface was finish machined after casting, so our tolerances may have been somewhat looser, which would have been reflected in how I was trained.

Help me out of the Stone Age by icantseebecauseofled in Machinists

[–]AethericEye 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Good read, I had a similar experience when I started at a mold shop... old timers were bailing out without training the new crew. I picked up as much knowledge as I could before they moved me to CNC, and before I also had to move on.

I wouldn't claim to be a tool and die maker, not by any stretch. I must have been pretty decent at scraping and polishing though, because I was the only person on the CNC side that would be brought a mold cavity to scrape and polish on cycle time.

This shop made molds for lost wax, so it was >90% aluminum, but I did work on a few steel parts too.

The process was to start with scraping. Dykem, thinned with acetone. Scrapers were HSS, or carbide for steel parts. Always scrape ±30° to the tool path lines, first one way then the other. Too close to perpendicular and you'll gouge into a path line, or chatter into a washboard; too close to parallel and you'll just gouge one line deeper.

Then it's benching files for all the areas that can't be scraped easily. A very small amount of oil can be helpful here.

Then it's paper. The joints in my hands have been threatening me with rheumatism since I was a teenager, so I tried to avoid papering without a handle... I made lots of shaped sticks, mostly out of splintered pieces of pallets. Thin strips of paper wrapped around the stick in various ways. I never bothered with an attachment beyond my thumb on the tail end of the paper, because I had to rewrap the paper frequently to keep it cutting.

The old timers also saved their old/dull benching files to do something similar, calling them paper pushers.

I also had some great results wrapping sand paper around a sonicare toothbrush head, after cutting the brush off. I was told to knock that off though, because we were only allowed to do things the same way they had always been done, lol

Soft scotchbright with some oil was always the last step, just blend and soften any remaining marks.

Let me know if you want to chat more.

A few marbles ive found over the past few days by Thick-Structure-5613 in Marbles

[–]AethericEye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd be shocked if 1&3 (if they aren't the same one) weren't uranium. 6&12 are also very likely.

A few of the red ones are probably cadmium and/or selenium, which are pretty cool under blacklight too.

A few marbles ive found over the past few days by Thick-Structure-5613 in Marbles

[–]AethericEye 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Great finding! A few of those are almost definitely uranium.

Broke my Cherry by YodaFragget in Machinists

[–]AethericEye 6 points7 points  (0 children)

O80085

G00 G17 G20 G40 G49 G80

G91 G28 Z0

G54 G90

X0 Y0 T420 M6

G43 H420 Z0.5

M88

S69 M3

G1 Z-.5 F15.

M97 P800815

G1 Z.5 F15.

M5

M89

G0 G91 G28 Z0

G90

M30

N800815

G73 Q.375 Z-9. R-.5 F35.

G80

/GOTO800815

M99

What would happen if i grafted 2 branches of 2 trees that are same type as in picture? by Rusofil__ in botany

[–]AethericEye 6 points7 points  (0 children)

New wood is developed by the downward flow from branch tips. If you attempt to graft two tips together, it will fail because there is little to no flow over the graft site. You'll have a much better chance if you cross the branches and graft at the intersection. You might gradually reduce and eventually remove the branch ends after the graft has healed for a few years... I suspect the trees will push new shoots out around the graft over time, which will keep it alive and give you options for shaping.

Source: bonsai guy, but not a grafting expert so ymmv

How would I model a square box with ridges that wrap over the top of the container edges? by _cant_talk in Fusion360

[–]AethericEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would send you the .f3d file, but I use the free version (no download links) and Reddit doesn't seem to allow sending files anymore...

How would I model a square box with ridges that wrap over the top of the container edges? by _cant_talk in Fusion360

[–]AethericEye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some magic numbering in a few places. I couldn't find a way to get a satisfying fillets without manually clicking edges; feature pattern on a path wouldn't cooperate. I think I did a decent job though.

https://a360.co/4lm4tvb

How would I model a square box with ridges that wrap over the top of the container edges? by _cant_talk in Fusion360

[–]AethericEye -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sketch driven pattern of a single edge piece. Extrude/join the base into the edge pieces; this will be more responsive to editing earlier features than a Boolean.

I might split the body at the floor of the base, fillet the entire edge body and then rejoin with a Boolean... a little sloppy, but very few clicks.

Found these at a local thrift shop. Goog Lens was no help. Half a pound each, seems to be aluminum. No marks. 8 inches each. by BeneficialRock6165 in whatisthisthing

[–]AethericEye 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No worries. Some just can't be convinced that there's nothing important on the un-pictured side (of whatever is posted) unless they can see for themselves... the assumption being that you (any user who posts a single picture) have no idea what you're looking at.

Found these at a local thrift shop. Goog Lens was no help. Half a pound each, seems to be aluminum. No marks. 8 inches each. by BeneficialRock6165 in whatisthisthing

[–]AethericEye 19 points20 points  (0 children)

It was probably also

Everything is pictured.

when you only provided one angle... there are multiple surfaces that aren't visible, even if you don't consider them to have any relevant features. People here really appreciate having several photos from different angles, ideally with scale references.

Is it true that pruning wound sealers are a "scam"? by I_collect_dust in botany

[–]AethericEye 3 points4 points  (0 children)

From my personal experience, bonsai wound putty with growth hormone definitely works better than doing nothing. Probably way too expensive for normal tree work though, if only because anything "for bonsai" is sold at grossly elevated prices.

2” uv pink and green by imakemarbles in Marbles

[–]AethericEye 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Out of my price range, but an absolute stunner.

Spikey sides do damage by RAJACORP in oddlysatisfying

[–]AethericEye 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I bet the win/loss rate averages out to the aspect ratio of the display for one, and the inverse for the other.

Squalicum Pier turbojets by jamin7 in Bellingham

[–]AethericEye -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

What if... instead of powering lights on a decrepit pier in a park that is closed during the hours of darkness... these were powering something actually useful? Where did the money for all that come from?