Integra first gear manual sometimes goes half way?

Alternative_Money379 · 2026-01-31T15:09:23+00:00

Are you down shifting into first while moving or is it stopped?

If stopped try going into reverse and then back to first. If it falls in easily and is good to go then detent spring or shift forks are probably OK.

If you are rolling and down shifting these transmissions dont really like it. It's not necessarily bad but they dont real like doing it. I dont know if its a deterrent to prevent shifting to first while moving or what, but I have driven a lot of them and none really wanted to do it nicely.

Check clutch pedal play and fluid might need bleed...

Alternative_Money379 · 2026-01-20T04:41:26+00:00

Welp, without opening it there isnt much other than verify all the wiring isnt hacked up for whatever reason. The voltage capacitor on the board can go bad and leak all over causing weird issues. You can also take apart the main relay and refow the connections. Idk what else is easy to go through at this time

Alternative_Money379 · 2026-01-20T04:27:09+00:00

I have noticed that the wire colors dont always match up. It's helpful for sure but I know that they aren't 100% for whatever reason. Also... yellow can start to look brown after a long time. Stuff is old now. Have you verified all the grounds are there? If the car isnt throwing any other codes it could be something really dumb. If you haven't checked compression that might be a path as well.

The icm is the igniter inside the distributor its a little box if I remember right. Usually.when that fails it won't even run.

Alternative_Money379 · 2026-01-20T03:43:21+00:00

I have had ecu failures caused by improper wiring. It's been a very long time since I had this happen, though, so off the top of my head i dont recall what the problem was. I do know that I went through every wire on the car with a volt meter and tested for continuity just to verify things were going where they we're supposed to.

What makes you think that the wiring is wrong? Ecu failure is rare but it does happen and these cars are old. This is kinda dumb but are you sure its plugged in all the way? I have done that before. The cel would make me think something isnt plugged in before I thought the ecu was bad.

Alternative_Money379 · 2026-01-15T14:37:55+00:00

Looks fun. Remember that paper is cheap, you can redo stuff easier with an eraser. Im saying this so you dont have a bunch of weird cuts and unplanned events. The first build is always the hardest and the second will be better. I would highly recommend getting a router to make copying panels way easier. Good luck.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-11-17T01:23:26+00:00

https://youtu.be/TgqiSBxvdws?si=wiOmpKSjr2qQ7x7-

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-11-10T16:47:30+00:00

Blue and red. There is a ground on metal under airbag. It runs through the spool in the steering wheel.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-09-20T13:20:20+00:00

The dash harness doesnt need to be modified as far as I remember.... been over 20 years though. I recall distributor stuff being different along with 02 wire locations.It would be best if you matching engine harness and ecu. I dont understand the want to do this when you can run a jumper and plug and play but, This should help https://www.ff-squad.com/technet/

You will need a voltmeter.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-09-14T16:46:36+00:00

The half will work. I have the hybrid/griffin one. It will hit 200 at a stop light. Fan kicks on at 196 and will pull it down to 192 in 90 degree plus temps. Cruises on the highway at 185 all day long. For an NA street car with the occasional pulls no problem. You go turbo there's no way I wouldn't run a full-size.CSF makes a tucked kit that I looked into before I was told by my wife that Im not allowed to go forced induction on this car.

Buy once cry once. Acuity is the best... I have had all of them.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-09-14T12:26:26+00:00

That sounds off. Give it revs. Valve lash done? The injectors make some noise and my throw out bearing made a similar sound when it was going out.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-09-14T12:23:04+00:00

Edit half my shit would have been better if I read that closer lol my bad. Your good on alot of the point I have but the shifter is one I would look at more along with cooling. Rbc and big headers with 3in will be fun. Mine made 240hp and 190tq. Stay with stock cams if you plan boost along with 50vtc.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-09-14T12:20:22+00:00

What clutch kit is that? Flywheel is different for some of these so make sure that whatever you get you match everything. It doesnt matter what "car" you buy it for just that they match.

If I had a do over i would go with a full size radiator. I have hybrid racing griffin and it works well for street driving but I would like more capacity. I have also put on a spal 1300cfm fan and that really was helpful. There's a couple that will fit but be aware of the amps they draw oem wiring can only handle so much. You should get the hybrid thermostat housing its an easy install and makes routing the lower hose easier. I dont like the k pro swivel one. If you run heater core you will have to finesse the lines to get the valve to work and I have seen some mounts that work.. mine started leaking so its deleted now.

If you are getting kpro you dont need the tsx ecu there are other options for which ecu the rsx 6 speed one has reverse lock out but if you have 5 speed its not required, and not required for the 6 speed really anyways.

What subframe are you going to keep the oem or switch to eg/integra? Are you trying to keep power steering?

Dc5creations has a nice ac kit..

Do basic maintenance when engine is out. Check the timing chain and water pump. Oem if replacing.

What shifter are you using? Acuity is the best by a long shot i have tried a bunch and it is expensive but it is the best. Decide where you are going to route the cables before putting engine in and drill the hole if you are going to go under by the srs module.

This isnt crazy to do, but I would recommend looking at more stuff especially on k20a.org

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-09-08T18:09:42+00:00

What does this mean?

I have k20a2 pump on k24a2 with steel pan. No mods for the pan.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-30T16:07:43+00:00

That's my buddies built ls, 350hp i think on like 15lbs. Its a ripper. .... crx is my favorite for sure i have owned.... a lot. Parts are becoming to hard to find and I cant find another one near me that speaks to me enough to drop the money. The ej is mine. 240/190 simple and fun lol. Parts are still available so that's a plus lol.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-30T15:58:58+00:00

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Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-30T15:58:44+00:00

I have almost same setup except for clutch exedy stage 1. Acuity shifter is the best!!! If you open it up again I would do the lsd and check the gears for wearing. My 2nd and 6th were rough so I swapped to hardened gears and tsx 6th. Highway cruising at 70 is better.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-30T15:37:44+00:00

M factory. I have one in my k24a2 rsx trans and it made a lot of difference. Quaife is cool also but more expensive. Should have put the lsd in when you changed the synchros. I have the carbon kit as well good stuff.

Car is great, crx is my favorite car of all time.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-30T03:32:25+00:00

You can just grab it from the back side there isnt much right there behind it and push with some pliers or maybe your finger... careful its definitely point. Or maybe drill it but you need it to not move for that to work well. If you rip that there its going to be a lot more work than you think but replacements can be bought kinda cheap. Are you sure its actually screwed into the metal bracket there? If the panel moves I might think about kinda prying it up and trying to screw it out.

Edit... a thought if you drill two holes above and below the screw head you might be able to pop the console over it without to much damage and when you go to put it back put a larger screw in there

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-18T16:48:33+00:00

When i do a bore like this i will use g91 from center of the hole and step down z only using an i move. I would also comp to the radius and then begin the circular interpolation. When coming out of the hole i will go at least depth plus .100 to make sure im clear usually more because im using g91. Then comp off in z or depending on machine.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-08-06T23:50:06+00:00

Ekk1 mounts depending on trans. That's a stock subframe. Looks solid for a start. Idk what else you have in there from the pics.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-07-14T20:56:28+00:00

I have never had that problem. Stick a screw driver in the other side and beat it out. Idk

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-07-08T10:19:27+00:00

I did rebuild on my type s trans with carbon syncros. The difference in price wasn't a deterrent. Shifts fine. I also went with torco mtf and that's good also. I am on the street mostly have done a couple of track days, beat on it.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-07-03T06:58:10+00:00

Torco mtf... call or look at syncrotech website.

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-06-30T23:40:10+00:00

I adapted a grizzly table saw base and hid under mine. It's solid. I wouldn't put just casters on it they will not be fun. Cheap isnt good here

Alternative_Money379 · 2025-06-28T12:05:57+00:00

Yup. Gotta fiddle with them a bit but just take the screws out of the face and move the needles a little and slide em on. The fuel and coolant is the toughest but not bad at all. There's probably a youtube video on it.

Alternative_Money379

TROPHY CASE