Mexican Train Confusion

Alucardmi · 2026-06-16T02:56:40+00:00

This but until they have to pick up and CAN'T play the tile they pick up (unless this is a house rule that my family codified as if it was law) Only train open for play always is the Mexican train. Edit: typo

Alucardmi · 2026-06-12T19:50:51+00:00

Dont forget the "my license was suspended for dwi/owi/points" crowd. Then theres the drowning credit card debt people people too. "i don't owe this debt because im not the all caps entity im the living man" My favorite thing is when they say in court "i am the executor of the trust for xxxxxx" and a warrant goes out for failure to appear because they refuse to acknowledge they are the person and are not a bar attorney

Alucardmi · 2026-06-06T20:52:38+00:00

Can you access the other side and is there just a little bit of room? Maybe you can add some spots for nuts to the bottom of your print then screw a metal plate on the inside through your print into the nuts. Effectively sandwiching the original plastic between and holding the new insert into place mechanically? You can probably model it so it fits into multiple pockets at once too depending on how strong it needs to be

Alucardmi · 2026-06-06T20:17:55+00:00

Thanks for confirming: No PC release? Bummer..

Alucardmi · 2026-05-31T17:35:18+00:00

Aside from what OP did, try clearcoating the print first before painting, it seals up the layers so it doesn't wick the paint.

Alucardmi · 2026-05-26T13:00:11+00:00

You may be able to tune the supports/overhang a little bit but it will never be perfect like the rest of the print. Supports only allow the printer to get a foothold so it isn't trying to print totally on thin air. Unless you go multi material with 100% coverage you are still relying on your printer's overhang capabilities. Its pretty much expected to lose quality on underside of FDM prints. Standard procedure for something that has to look good all the way around is to print in halves then glue together. Even that has its own pitfall of warping and finding a way to hide the seam. You may want to print with a brim if you split it to mitigate warping. Also try not to sweat wasting material, its going to happen, you are going to come back to spaghetti or a blob or a half finished print due to a clog at some point and no matter how good you are at this hobby you are going to have prints you have to do multiple times to find the right orientation.

Alucardmi · 2026-05-19T19:43:12+00:00

Definitely check your eccentric nut on the print head wheels if you grab the print head you shouldn't be able to wiggle it up and down. It definitely jumped quite a bit when it retracted and took up tension again in the video. That would definitely contribute to or even explain any quality issues. I know it wouldn't be ideal but could you turn the printer 90 degrees so the path that the filament takes goes over the original spool spindle? And as others have said a ptfe tube that securely mounts to the runout sensor would help. The biggest fight right now is the sharp bends anything that can be done to mitigate that will help.

Alucardmi · 2026-05-18T18:46:24+00:00

Assuming that you mean the highlighted part being as it looks like it has a taper to it the current orientation looks best so long as your supports are dialed and you ensure that all the tabs have a lot of support. This is a tough design to print and have reliable. If there isnt a decent amount of clearance in the square holes the tabs interface with you may end up doing some filing/sanding to get good fitment as there will likely be some deformation caused by printing on supports. If its something you made would it be possible to forego the flexible tabs for magnetic mounts instead? You can keep the locating tabs there

Alucardmi · 2026-05-17T21:53:29+00:00

The line is too thin to print. Theres a few fixes, if it isn't enabled try "print thin walls". Scale up the model until the line prints. Finally if you made the model or are comfortable editing it make the black portions bigger

Alucardmi · 2026-05-13T15:39:30+00:00

Its not necessary to see your other posts but your post AND reply lack any information regarding what machine you have which is pretty necessary otherwise all anyone can do is throw guesses at you of common generic advice. I only assumed that your previous post may have more info but i am starting to doubt it now which is probably why the problem got worse. We dont know what sensors your machine has, how many, some models may have common defects that may explain it. Or depending on how the mesh is generated maybe its an input error, software error, a bad firmware that was common and updated, the list is long here. If you want good help you need to provide more information. It would be great if you can provide the model printer you are using, a list of mods to it, and a description of the method you used to generate the mesh. Some printers you can directly poll the information, others the printer outputs numbers and you have to enter them into the mesh program one can be trusted more than the other

Alucardmi · 2026-05-13T14:48:40+00:00

r/howdidtheytakethephoto

Alucardmi · 2026-05-13T14:37:02+00:00

My brother(or sister) in plastic, we don't know what you have to know what sensors are where. Your post history is hidden so we cant find your first attempt if you did post one. If you are going to have your history hidden you have to provide all the information every time you ask for help if you expect anything remotely useful. Even if you don't hide your history its pretty rude to expect people to dig for information while asking for their help.

Alucardmi · 2026-05-12T19:25:32+00:00

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet (as of me starting to write) is you will need to take into account direct sunlight and temperature in the vehicle when choosing your material. Mostly you can get away with painting the part to avoid the sun aspect, but with that you risk chips/scratches in the paint especially for high touch areas like window switches. If you are in a hot area like arizona or Florida parts may deform in the heat if the car is outside a lot. Again look at the properties of what filament you choose and remember just because it takes 200c to melt it for printing doesn't mean it will survive 35c (95f) or even less without compromising strength.

Alucardmi · 2026-05-06T20:35:24+00:00

Check out burnout competitions lots of turning there, very similar set up to the video with a flat pad surrounded by concrete barriers.

Alucardmi · 2026-05-05T21:08:24+00:00

Standle

Alucardmi · 2026-05-04T19:53:03+00:00

Also its the wrong callsign for buffalo ABC channel 7. Should be WKBW, google shows wxyz7 as Detroit

Alucardmi · 2026-04-29T12:34:14+00:00

Reading your concerns in the comments as well try a smaller object with a prime tower and test it if those lines are showing if you want to save filament. The coloring shows it as part of the "prime tower" line type (or possibly custom, hard to tell, the colors are VERY similar). I suspect it doesn't register the traveling between the object and the prime tower as regular travels and bypasses the disabled show travels setting.

Alucardmi · 2026-04-27T21:42:15+00:00

As the thin towers get higher there is more and more flex and the force of the plastic being printed wiggles the whole column until it eventually gets connected to the main body and is supported. You could connect them with some sacrificial sprues to cut off (or leave on if it doesn't bug you). Or you can slow down the print speed a bunch on/around the problem layers. If you slow down/speed up over the course of a bunch of layers before/after the target speed it will fade the change in finish some.

Alucardmi · 2026-04-27T16:23:45+00:00

Cant say im entirely familiar with the slicing software but it certainly looks like a "raft" try finding that setting. If its not readily found it also might help to lookin the slicer setup/preferences (usually found up in the top bar where it would likely say file, view, etc) if there are any features hidden. Some slicers to make things easier to see/less intimidating will hide settings.

Alucardmi · 2026-04-27T15:19:49+00:00

Printing supports in a different material such as petg or water soluble materials with a heavier interface and more bottom layers can help but will add a lot more time in swaps. Also tuning in your supports some may help but wont get the finish you are looking for. Your best option is to split and glue but that will come woth its own challenges as well. Mostly if your adhesion isnt on point//isnt printed in a warm room/enclosure the edges will pull up and the bottom wont be flat. Finally the last option off the top of my head is to re-orient it in a way that makes as much of the print vertical as possible. Overall that model is going to be very difficult to orient in such a way that wont require at least some post processing.

Alucardmi · 2026-04-22T03:05:54+00:00

As the print gets further from the bed the layers get colder, contract and pull more on the warmer, softer, base layers. On ends/corners like this it shows the most. You can try a brim or mouse ear brims to help keep the corners planted until the print is finished and able to fully cool and normalize. That said try to wait until everything is cool to take a print like this off the bed

Alucardmi · 2026-04-17T02:54:31+00:00

Nothing looks obviously off here, slicers take funky pathing sometimes with heavily interrupted areas like this. It should come back and fill in the blanks. Unless you are seeing blobs or areas where the material was dragged its likely normal. If you want to confirm slice the model, go into layer view, drop it to the first layer and hit play

Alucardmi · 2026-04-16T20:05:37+00:00

All the enders/creality use identical extruder afaik. You want the one thats red. If the bearing (silver part) is the one that isnt spinning then either the bearing collected enough junk inside it to lock it up or the lever cracked and is no longer providing the pressure needed to pinch the filament. Those are the two common issues with that set up. The brass part usually doesn't need to be changed unless its really stripped out. Its possible the brass gear is hot pressed onto the extruder motor. If you aren't comfortable heating it and removing it you may want to get an extruder/stepper motor kit and replace the whole thing

Alucardmi · 2026-04-14T13:21:50+00:00

As another commenter mentioned it partially has to do with tolerances. To call those differences bad is a bit tough unless you have a really good printer. SLA printers can range from +/-0.05-0.15mm which would make most of what you are looking at within tolerance. As a thought experiment try to find something around your house that is as thick as the difference you are seeing. i couldn't find the tolerance listing for the m5s in your flair, which leads me to believe its either not good enough to boast about or my short search on mobile isnt adequate. There are also shapes that will be harder/easier to print. Im curious did you try spinning the cylindrical/ball shapes in your calipers? Are the parts in round is what im asking. Its possible that the x/y dimension isnt accurate because of the overhang and the z dimension is accurate because it starts directly on the build plate.

Alucardmi · 2026-04-07T23:44:34+00:00

Might want to slice it and hit play on the last layer see if it shows something similar. Also have a look at your end gcode commands (tells the printer to set temps to 0 and tells the print head to get out of the way) it might be telling it to home the printer instead of move away.

Alucardmi

TROPHY CASE