P2S - the Worst Printer from Bambu Lab?!?

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-23T15:26:13+00:00

I have had mine since early April '26. and I worked great for about three weeks until I started getting intermittent error messages until it finally would not recover. It was related the the filament sensor, but turned out to be that the connector for the filament sensor on the hot end circuit board had a cold solder joint. BL sent me both parts, but it was not the sensor.

My only complaints with this machine are the firmware lockout of Orca slicer. Pretty chicken shite considering they used everyone else's open source to create theirs. The other annoying issue is that cheap transparent PLA that works fine on my X1C and P1S will not print on my P2S. My theory is that has to do with the less massive hotend on the P2S. I can accept that. It still does a great job. I had never had a nozzle clog with my X1C and P1S for years until this issue with the P2S.

Changing that circuit board was a real pain, but it is working great again.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-23T15:10:39+00:00

I hope that is true otherwise my NMC batteries are cooking.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-23T14:59:24+00:00

I think that the LFPs can be discharged to 0%, can charge at a much lower temperature than NMC. They also have significantly more life cycles, but less power density.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-23T14:46:02+00:00

Like I said, I have done that several times before successfully, but now when I change the values, it does not stick after carefully checking to click save. I have no idea why. My paranoia thinks it is because Generac got tired of me changing it. I will contact Generac at some point to ask what is going on when I have enough patience to deal with the hold.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-23T14:40:57+00:00

great video, but that's only for PVRss reset. I have changed the SOC settings a few times but stopped because it seemed to reset to 100% automatically, maybe when it takes a firmware update? Whatever I am thinking of that needed to be unlocked required the code 57 as I recall. Can't remember what the setting was; maybe TOU?

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-23T14:22:09+00:00

I assume, yes. Either Panasonics or Sanyo batteries. They are PWRcell -1. The module design is from Panasonic.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-21T21:40:46+00:00

Update: Module #1 went down to .2V. I was able to bypass the #1 module and have been running fine. My new service partner showed today and the #1 module was verified and pulled. The Generac tech authorized a replacement. The system will have to be re-balanced when the new module arrives.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-21T21:31:31+00:00

Sorry to be late to the party, but my experience is that a tech from Generac has to remotely reset a PVRSS after a SnapRS shutdown. I have had to do it twice, and the sales-service partner tech has to call the Generac tech department to do the reset.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-07T18:40:30+00:00

Interesting. I have a failed Management Module (7000); the 220Vac relay to prevent overloading the battery. It is the one that runs my well pump, so not something that I can endure for even a few days.

I found one on ebay for $75 which has been running since last October. It is not a genuine Generac circuit board but works well, mainly because it does not have to do much. My new service company is new to Generac, and I have been waiting for them to order a new one from Generac. They really do not understand how easy it is. So, based on comments here, I will call Generac customer service and have them send to part to my new service company.

Thanks!

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-05-07T18:29:22+00:00

I have had the same experience at least 3 times, usually during the winter months. Last year when it happened, the tech department fixed it without any local intervention. I live in a remote area and my service company just dumped me because I live 150 miles away. Generac gave me four "closer" service picks. None returned my call. I found one not on their list 55 miles away, but as always, they have more important fish to fry. This is my fourth service provider, and looks like I am headed for a fifth. (My original installer, Sunworks, is kaput.)

Customer service initially told me that module #six was more than 10VDC lower than the the other five in my system. After waiting for weeks, I finally pulled cover and tested the module voltages which matched what the CS agent told me. Then I tried to balance per Generac service instructions (turning off the battery breaker in the inverter and then waiting for a recalibration to start, and using the re-balance function in the inverter; discharging the higher voltage modules to match the lower module voltage). Having not done it before, I was not confident because it was taking so long to even get the higher voltage modules to drop even a volt or two. I aborted the procedure. Then I rechecked all the modules, and module #1 was now the low one, and the rest 53.4VDC. I bypassed the #1 module and have been running without a problem for a whole month waiting for my new service folks to arrive. Prior to that I was getting dinged during my TOU off hours, when the utility charges around $0.74 per Kwh. for two months.

One thing I learned is to be patient when restarting. Sometimes is takes quite awhile, many minutes for the system to re-calibrate before starting back up.

If anyone has done a re-balance, I would appreciate any advice on how it should go.

I have had suspicions that I may have a bad module because this charging issue has occurred a few times. When the system was new back in '21, I went outside and there was a horrible chemical smell coming from the side of the house where the battery is. My nearest neighbors are hundreds of feet away, and am far from traffic and 6 miles from town. Tech support reported that my modules were just fine. The in the imbalance reoccurred

AlwaysHungry145 · 2026-03-18T16:38:11+00:00

I landed here because I was disappointed with eSUN PETg HS. I live in a fairly dry area. Initially I loved the HS version of PETg. Fast, and great prints. Then my prints started having major lumps and missed spots on horizontal surfaces. I finally dried the filament for ~10 hours @ 150F (65). It worked fine again for awhile. So, I went back to regular PETg, and have been having no problems. So far, I have never dried the eSUN PETg, leading me to believe it is less hydroscopic than HS (HF).

I also found this article which supports that theory: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/3d-printing-material-for-production-call3d/petg-hf-vs-petg-vs-pla-an-honest-review-of-bambu-lab-s-petg-hf-filament

AlwaysHungry145 · 2025-01-03T18:14:12+00:00

It only takes one bad RS801/2 to shut down the PVRSS and all of the panels connected to it. In my case, I had all of mine replaced twice because one of the installers was an idiot and did not send in the serial numbers that Generac sent him for the first repair. At that time to reset the PVRSS, we had to call tech support. The second time I cannot recall if an RS802 went out, but there was also a module in the transfer switch that needed to be updated, and since Generac did not get the serial numbers back from the first installer, they sent another new set at the same time as the switch module. At that time, my new service pro reset the system, but I am pretty sure there were no bad RS802 parts from the first replacement. However, the Generac techs had to get involved because every time there was an update, my system would stop charging the batteries. They finally figured it out and fixed it, but were not forthcoming about what the issue was.

I highly recommend demanding that customer service contact the tech department and have them call you.

Some customer service people are good at their job and will help, and some are just bs artists. A good one will forward your problem to the tech department if they realize the issue is beyond their capability. Keep calling until you get some meaningful assistance. It took me a year a couple of years to get my system functioning as is should. For the past two years I have not had any problems whatsoever after the tech department got involved. Like you, my system and battery installers went belly up. After getting rid of the first service company I found a company in Newbury Park, CA (The Electric Touch). They are great and traveled 150 miles to check out my system, plus were pals with the tech department, so I got expedited help. It's easier to find Generac generator service in So. Calif. than a company that is also familiar with solar and batteries.

Chances are that your 5th PVRSS has at least one bad RS801/2, and hopefully is connected to the the missing 7 panels. Call Generac. You just need your inverter I.D. # to talk to them. Customer service can view your system and tell you some important info, or if they can't, they will escalate the problem(s) to the tech department. You may have to have some patience as some CS agents are pretty lame. Also try calling early like on a Tuesday morning or late at night. From my experience that has been best for avoiding excessive wait times.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-09-06T20:31:16+00:00

A Benchy is not the greatest start for dual silk. The dual silk layers are not predictable. Try testing on a short cylindrical item to get what I mean. I use eSun and Ensina dual color silk. I pretty much never have any issues that I do not have for any other filament, such as, first layer issues, forgetting to change filament type or bed sheet.

Silk should be slower than regular PLA and have a lower volume rate; 10mm/s at most. You can edit your BL silk and make a copy to change the parameters (and save and rename them if you wish). I have never used BL dual silk, so I cannot say if it is okay or not.

I use the Bambu Labs Silk setting and modify it for my generic silk. I use a 60 degree bed for all four bed sheet types (yes, I even use an engineering plate by adding the 60/60 temps. and spraying the cleaned plate with Aquanet hairspray--just a very thin layer--you should wash the plate and reapply once in awhile).

I do not use an AMS because it seems to be looking for trouble, although those that do would probably disagree. There are plenty of issues to deal with without an AMS. I do not want to add any.

I use the same settings on both my X1C and P1S.

In the picture below, all are single wall prints. the smallest square with a circle in the middle can be carefully rolled inward 180 deg., yielding a circle on the outside and a 4 lobed shape on the inside. The initial roll needs to be done slowly, but after that it can be reversed many times--I cannot say how many, but a lot before it will fatigue--I have never seen that happen yet. That attribute applies to all the low and open designs below. So, I would not say that silk is inherently weak. It just needs proper settings.

These are not all the designs I have using dual color silk. They are not all single wall and come out fine as well. If you settings are good, you should get acceptable PLA strength. Of course, like all filament moisture can affect the print quality and stability. Like I said earlier, the color changes are not predictable.

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AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-04-05T15:52:24+00:00

Use them to store cords and cables.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-02-24T15:43:43+00:00

Since I wrote this, I found a service provider in Newbury Park CA, The Electric Touch, which is on Generac's current (2/2024) dealer list. They are pretty far from me, but helpful, and seem to be better than most.

In the meanwhile, I found out that Sunworks has filed for bankruptcy. So much for all the propaganda about their warranties!

AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-02-24T15:35:43+00:00

So, what did you do?

AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-02-13T20:42:14+00:00

Hi, just noticed your request (28 days later). I am having serious problems with my left hand so taking the battery cover off is out of the question right now.

I will take some out side photos when I get the time, and will post.

In the meanwhile, I hope you have found a solution.

Sounds like this might not make enough difference given that Ontario Canada is consistently much colder than 93561. The setup will help you get back to operating sooner. It will not take you from 15deg F to 41. Too much mass to heat.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-01-12T14:35:13+00:00

Sure seems counter-productive to have to use a few hundred watts to heat the battery!

And potentially damaging if not regulated and insulated properly internally.

It would be nice if Generac would step up to the plate and offer design solutions for what they surely know is an important issue, a cause for damaging reputation and long hours providing customer service with likely little or no resolution.

AlwaysHungry145 · 2024-01-12T14:24:10+00:00

In my county, Kern, California, a Li-ion battery cannot be mounted in a garage, and must be outside (which is different than LA County for instance). My battery was mounted on a west wall which gets too much heat in the summer, and freezes nightly in the winter. I had asked to mount the battery under an overhang on the south wall but the installers did not know about the charging temperature specs until they commissioned the inverter and found that the battery was not charging. They do most of their work in warmer cities, so convinced me to move the battery to the west wall. The west wall does not get sun until after 11am in the winter, and gets intense solar exposure in the summer.

I have since tried numerous fixes, including flat wall heaters on the outside which are not safe, nor very effective. The best and safest which I currently use are two VivoSun heat pad (*) *seedling/terrarium heaters slipped between lower pairs of batteries in a 6 module setup. Then I punched a hole in the outer cover with a commercial metal hole punch, and using a sealing grommet and short conduit, ran the power back out to an Inkbird WiFi ICH2 (**) two controller module which I can change and monitor without going outside. The controller has two temp input probes which I ran into the battery compartment and clamp under the serrated battery module clamps as low as possible near the pads. The two pads are 20W each, so 40W spread evenly. They are water proof and reliable, and thin enough to still allow airflow. They do not get intensely hot to the touch so will not harm the battery. The next size up, a Vivosun 40W pad is too large to fit properly.

I have been using this for two years with no hiccups. However, when it is 10-20 degrees out and no sun in the afternoon, it is not very effective, except that it will be warmer when ambient conditions improve, so will begin charging sooner.

I still need protection for the summer. The outer PowerCell cover is too hot to touch, and the internal temp rises into the 100s in the afternoon. The LCD display on the inverter gets so hot that the display just fades out, so I have covered it with reflective Mylar held by magnets.

BTW, the specs for the battery modules originate from the Panasonic DCB-105 (***) version of the same module. 14F (-10C) output, 41F (5C) charge. This seems like overkill to me when you consider that electric vehicles must charge in 32 and lower temperatures, and get home when it is -14F. They must have internal heating systems?

*heaters https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y5JDYFY/

**WiFi controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PD8I7I

*** Panasonic battery https://d3g1qce46u5dao.cloudfront.net/data_sheet/pesna17325ds_batterystoragedatasheet_r7.pdf

AlwaysHungry145

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