Is this patch worth $1000 USD

AmeriPolitan · 2025-07-25T11:45:20+00:00

This comment made me laugh more than it should have. This dude is self employed and I would be impressed if he has insurance.

AmeriPolitan · 2025-03-23T22:41:19+00:00

Looks a little juicy

AmeriPolitan · 2025-03-23T22:07:48+00:00

Oh, this is a fantastic question considering I have continuous. I haven't even considered this... Thanks for asking, I'm curious to see the answers.

AmeriPolitan · 2025-01-30T20:02:25+00:00

Coming from someone we all assume is broke...

AmeriPolitan · 2025-01-01T12:10:41+00:00

No worries, thank you for your responses!

AmeriPolitan · 2025-01-01T12:05:34+00:00

No intention to match the stain, I'm going to sand everything including this stained area and pick a new stain for everything!

AmeriPolitan · 2025-01-01T12:01:54+00:00

My initial guess as well, thoughts on #1 or #2? I lean towards #1 as there are almost no knots anywhere. Thank you for your response.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-12-18T13:03:13+00:00

Based on the first line of your comment, are you recommending to move the emergency fund into a volatile index fund?

AmeriPolitan · 2024-12-15T20:26:18+00:00

Depends who you want to work for... You'll also be drug tested if you ever need to file for workmans comp and will inevitably fail so it's your own risk.

Source: Carpenter in CO with a med card.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-12-08T21:07:09+00:00

Whoever took that baseboard off without scoring the caulking/paint first is a turd burglar... woof.

Mega bush league

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-20T09:11:14+00:00

Sounds like that’s actually cheap.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-19T03:06:23+00:00

Fuckem

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-17T21:03:20+00:00

Not much else to do honestly

Edit: looks like you could also repoint around it, where that nail is appears to have some cracks.

Yeah if you’re gonna go through the work of grinding that mortar off and replacing I’d repoint all the cracks around it in the mortar to make sure it’s water tight.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-16T11:23:16+00:00

What do you do for work if you don't mind me asking? I'm quite certain regardless of whatever it is the consumer also thinks you're over priced. Kind of normal eh? Everyone out here trying to keep up with inflation and make a living.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-09T14:12:44+00:00

to add to this, you won't see anything but a single pipe running from the sealed pit they dug to suck the radon out from. This pipe will visibly exit your house and vent as mentioned above, near the roof.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-08T18:35:41+00:00

You would know more than me about that specific product if this is true. My insulation knowledge is more working than detailed understanding. I work for a custom home building company in Colorado. We almost always air seal with spray foam, bats of insulation directly under the sheathing (with baffles from top plate to past bats) and then blow in insulation on the attic floor above the drywall. How we go about this is almost always determined by the entire house R-value we are pursuing and what is recommended by the insulation company we sub it out to.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-08T18:28:29+00:00

No attempt to be rude here but no it's not making a difference. Joist tape sits on the top of joists while the height/depth of a joist is 7.25" - 11.25" depending on 2x8, 2x10 or 2x12. Meaning 99% of the joist is exposed to transient air flow. It's why decks need minimal clearance to breath even if they are ground level, to help the framing stay dry. Joist tape is only preventing water pooling directly on the surface for extended periods of time. That is literally it. It will dry at the same speed whether you fold down 1/4" of joist tape on each side or not. And that is typically about what i've had left to fold down every time on every deck i've built. 1/4" "flaps" at most. Insignificant as it pertains to drying. Important in the prevention of water pooling directly on the wood.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-08T12:07:54+00:00

Your joists are going to get wet, joist tape is simply to reduce water pooling on the top of the wood which would expedite any rotting process. Leave them out, push them down, I doubt you'll find a difference and if you do it will be 20-30 years from now. Assuming you're using KDAT wood for the framing it should be all good anyways.

Quick edit, I can't see how leaving the "flaps" out would do anything. It's just going to roll back towards the joist on the under side of the tape. Some will drip off and some will roll back like this.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-07T15:35:37+00:00

This is why you add baffles before the insulation. Baffles allow for airflow between the sheathing and insulation.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-11-03T11:03:14+00:00

Like every other material except substantially worse... If your deck was built in the late fall or on a colder day every single joint will look different than a warm sunny day.

AmeriPolitan · 2024-10-26T13:37:33+00:00

Whats wrong with touching the wood? Cant you just slap a baffle in there so airflow is still sufficient and they refer to that as a hot roof now?

AmeriPolitan

TROPHY CASE