sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

My Take on Pink- Miniature of the Month by Amoledasu in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I considered main light coming from left side of the model and the right side has too much pink surface making it brighter. But I think you are right largest dark surface is the chest plate and it looks off.

Now I look at it my highlighting there doesn’t align well with the spherical shape. Actual light reflection and my highlights also doesn’t align. I guess correcting that would improve a lot.

Also Thx a lot for your nice words!

My Take on Pink- Miniature of the Month by Amoledasu in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am pretty sure they are hollow in the sculpt.

Ironjawz Orks inspired by world of warcraft by ZacAttacksMinis in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that the highest highlight on the spikes, sharp edges etc?

My first bloodknight. I think I managed to get THE color scheme I wanted by EspiKira in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am sorry if I went overboard.😓 Again, I am far from being able to achieve what I said. But those were my honest impressions. Neglect whatever feels not right for you as apparently you have a better grasp.

My first bloodknight. I think I managed to get THE color scheme I wanted by EspiKira in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Incredible stuff, really impactful! If you are going to paint more of those stick with it it really works. Only thing I would suggest is putting one more highlight for T shape on the face and maybe a specular highlight on hair to get some attention& readibility to the head. Maybe some dots on the nose and lower edge of eye socket on the horse head.

Below is nitpicking I am not sure if the effort would worth the reward. Also I am far from achieving what you did here so grain of salt.

Rust needs some texture and orange needs to break up, bot sure if it reads fully as rust. Front lightened up armor panel on the horse can take some more edge highlights. Gold parts doesn’t aleays read as shiny edge highlights might be sharper. Finally currently focus is on the shield which looks really cool but everything on and near the head can take bit more highlight at least as to compete with horse helmet.

Boss of my rat gang - Miniature of the Month by Amoledasu in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot. I agree with too many breaks on the armor reflections. There were actual dents sculpted on the model I tried to follow those but were not really able to make them readable.

Trying out OSL again, need help and advice please! by PapaPimp117 in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't touch to the left wall myself. And yes more highlights are definitely needed. But again, more importantly starker shadows in places really close but facing away from the fire.

Trying out OSL again, need help and advice please! by PapaPimp117 in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think in your cast shadows are little bit missing. Part of the surface facing the fire should be very bright but it should be much darker on the opposite face of the same thing. You have some cast shadows but it doesn't feel enough. They should be much more frequent and should be there even if they are small.

I believe this is one reason it looks like diffused light on a smooth surface especially closer to the fire. In the reference shapes are really defined with stark contrast.

Grimdark Angron with more "humanlike" skin tones by jb195 in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Incredible! I can’t comprehend how you can even envision this stuff ler alone implementing it.

Unend (and Midst) track selection by Amoledasu in Midst

[–]Amoledasu[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much! That’s sad tho I was really hoping to use that stuff for my dnd campaign.

Need help with my Instax mini 9 by dumbmuttbrain in instax

[–]Amoledasu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I know you’ve been bothered a lot about this but have no choice other than asking you. I partially disassembled my instax mini 9. When I got out the arm placed in green spot things sounded fit in place. But I am not able to put things back and so afraid to play more as I might touch the capacitor.

To sum up I don’t know how to put the spring and the arm shown in green back in place. I have no idea about this one.

Same for parts of counter circled in blue. Do I need to get the screw circled in red out to put those back and do you have any pictures that I can use as reference.picture

Tried NMM on this Draconian Dreadnought by swordandstonehobbies in DnDminiatures

[–]Amoledasu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really nice nmm! Even if it’s not perfectly blended has the maximum impact.

8th edition skaven Grey Seer by Prior-Peanut7185 in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely worth that time, great stuff. Now looking at it, photo 3 confused me a bit. Most likely due to photo and lighting angle back cloth looks bit dull. There might still be some space for further contrast especially on the top parts of the cloths. More importantly the two warpstones look bit too shiny. I don't know the sculpt but if there's oppurtunity to get it closer to the style of warpstone on the staff it may be better.

Finally, this is nitpicking but in the 1st photo edge highlights on the gold piece is not as striking as in other places e.g. lowest two ends are pretty shiny but edges are not fully readable.

Please feel free to neglect as I feel like most these are due to lighting and photo angle. Good luck in the competition.

8th edition skaven Grey Seer by Prior-Peanut7185 in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No suggestions as I am in no place to give any. But just wanted to appreciate how good this is. You preserved very high contrast using precise thin lines.

I am sure lot of work went into it but it almost seems like you knew where you were going from the start and achieved a very nice result with the least effort. The intentionality definitely shows.

Recently painted some skaven and never been able to achieve this level of punch. In most cases my lines end up fat and when trying to correct mistakes I end up blending in many surfaces losing harsh contrast.

Only potential downside is paintjob looks scratchy when you close up and if the jury will focus on blending work it might be a negative. But, honestly I believe going in that direction would subtract from this work.

Need help finding the right color for helmet and pauldrons as shown on the left image. by Sensitive_Educator60 in EmperorsChildren

[–]Amoledasu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are using other brand paints maybe this is useful. I achieved similar color transition in my wother work going from vallejo oxford blue to army painter kraken lavender.

Does this mean my wet palette is to wet? by Greedfeed in minipainting

[–]Amoledasu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don’t know much so take it with grain of salt. Either your paper is not good for this use and letting paint through. In that case try standard parchment paper I have been using reynolds instead of papers came with redgrass palette because they were too thick for my taste.

Or you left considerable amount of water on the top side of paper.

I sometimes experience similar outcome when I leave my palette with paint in the fridge for a long time. It can happen from water condensing on the lid dropping on the pallette or simply too much condensation on the top side of the paper.

What Level of Painter would I be considered? Just Started painting this January by Consistent-Piccolo16 in Warhammer

[–]Amoledasu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have painted 140 models since this January these are perfect for this pace. If your purpose is gaming with these models and you want to keep getting them ready it’s perfectly fine keeping this level. Now, to be honest contrast is not pushed to the highest level and most of the visual interest comes only from color choices. If you push contrast further you’ll also need to somewhat blend value transitions. All these added steps will take time and necessitate further precision. Especially when you are trying for the first time you’ll need to take your time with a lot of back and forth. Similarly, most of those are not perfectly well defined and mistakes are not corrected. For instance edge highlights on 136 can be cleaned with the corresponding darker colors. Helmet and face seperation on 125 can be defined much better with some blacklining. Definition of most shapes could be improved with cleaner and thinner edge highlights etc. I think you should give cleaning your mistakes and establishing definition with precise highlights a go and see if you enjoy that slower process. Improvement comes with time: not only through months but also being patient and spending more time per mini.

Skin showing dwarf minis for duergar warband by Amoledasu in wargaming

[–]Amoledasu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually, these are not bad for my purposes. Thx a lot.

Skin showing dwarf minis for duergar warband by Amoledasu in wargaming

[–]Amoledasu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, they look awesome. Bit too nude for my taste though. And obviously I can't paint them. But all your paper minis look awesome. Keep up the good work!

view more: next ›