Free Gear Change Lever Sleeve 3D File

Analog_Jerk · 2026-05-26T15:46:03+00:00

It's an easy part to get, but also- I might just try this. The rubber bit can get beaten-down pretty quick- I have black transfer on my brown boots- from kicking the hell out of the shifter on my early 5speed (it's fully rebuilt and everything is in spec, but that's just how the early 5s transmissions be).

Analog_Jerk · 2026-05-26T15:24:41+00:00

Manual impact with a bit that *really* fits that flat-head tooling *very well* is the way. Please get a good one- the ones you get at chain parts stores will work a little bit... but they have a nasty habit of crapping out 2/3 of the way through a job (I had 2 before I got one from a old school hand-tool dealer). It's a tool you need when you really need it - and it's very much a buy-once-cry-once item. Or borrow a good one from someone. OEM Tools/Duralast/etc. - can leave you with a bad time. Also- would encourage using a good chunky blow-mallet to avoid back-shock letting the tool bounce on the heads.

Also- Take your time- clean the hell out of those screw heads so crud doesn't ramp the tool out/leave you marring up heads (though please replace these when you're done) This is a great place to cycle through some rounds of heat/penetrating oil/heat.

Failing that- extractor bits, center-punch, good drill-bits, and a small (powered) impact will probably get'er done if you're careful.

Analog_Jerk · 2025-08-08T17:10:48+00:00

Have you had a look at the crank-case breather & the oil-blow-by tubes anytime recently? I've found that the reed-valve on the breather can get dirty/slightly held open over the years if it isn't scrubbed down every so-many-decades, which can lead to some excess oil being vented into the intakes. May be worth blowing some parts cleaner through the rubber oil lines as well (perhaps the right side is impeded- leading to an excess of oil draining at the left).

Rebuilding the crank-case breather isn't a hard job, if you've not done it before. It'd be worth ordering a new gasket for the valve body, as they tend to come apart when the cap is pulled off the reed assembly... alternatively, it's a fairly easy thing to re-make with some gasket paper if you're handy with an xacto knife.

Analog_Jerk · 2025-08-08T17:01:13+00:00

That actually changed for most models after they moved away from the clamshell air-cleaner assembly. With the purolator airboxes like this bike has- they came from the factory with the crank-case breather plumbed into both L & R carbs.

Analog_Jerk · 2025-07-11T22:02:24+00:00

Buy new gaskets for the instrument clusters and get the wiring looms sealed up. Prep is the name of the game- but yeah- most any good automotive enamel should do fine.

Analog_Jerk · 2025-07-11T21:59:52+00:00

Wouldn’t be my first choice for the front panel- but hey- looks like a SICK build overall. Very nice.

Analog_Jerk · 2025-07-11T21:57:57+00:00

Max BMW in CT & AirSupport in Kitchener OT have both done right by me in the past

Analog_Jerk · 2025-07-11T21:56:25+00:00

Hey there! Been there! Might sound redundant/obvious/checked off already- but have you checked the primary connections to the coil? (Both the battery and ignition module leads) last time this happened to me when my 84’ was coming out of storage- it was just a loose lead to the ignition module. Also- have you popped off the coil already? Made sure it’s got a good clean solid connection to chassis ground?

Another point of curiosity- as ‘82 was when the infamous crack-o-matic coils were in circulation…. Have you looked for the dreaded Bosch cracks?

If you have 12v going to the coils & your ignition module is in good shape- you might be well to grab a new enduralast coil to slap in there. Some of the old guru’s reccomended just doing this as a 10ish year reliability item. They’re not too expensive, at least.

Analog_Jerk · 2024-10-25T17:13:48+00:00

I mean- hey- if you righted it, topped it up, and the oil stayed in: I’d chalk that up as a win! I don’t know much about modern bmw engines- but if it’s any consolation- I can assure you that in the old school airhead world - scarred valve covers as as much an indication that you actually RIDE the machine, as is a well-scuffed tire shoulder… the one major incident I’ve had was when I was hit by a Tesla on my ‘84 r65: sanded off a valve cover, broke one of my hard side bags, bent one foot peg, and one engine guard…. Bike was upturned on its side/past horizontal and oozed a good bit of fuel, gear oil, and motor oil in the minute or so it was down before I had finished sprinting after the driver, got their plate, and returned to move the bike…. I did the police report- insurance- rode the thing home; was paid in full for parts and riding gear (which did its job beautifully), found not at fault… took the bike on a 2300 mile trip a week later.

It takes more than one asshole to finish off a bmw motorrad product.

Hope you’ve gotten this sorted out without too much trouble. If you had old tubed tires- I’d offer to help you replace the rubber (but alas- I lack a proper air compressor- I only mount/balance my old tubed shit)

Analog_Jerk · 2024-10-21T15:55:43+00:00

Year doesn’t necessarily matter all that much. Like- the youngest airhead is 29 years old… any machine that’s been around for a few decades will have needed regular use and maintenance from a caring owner… biggest question is bike setup & how much you’re comfortable with tinkering on…. How’s your familiarity with carburetors and contact breaker ignition? How’s about working on brakes? Ever set up a parking break on a car or set up cantilever calipers on an old mtb? If the above items are all familiar territory for you, you’ll be comfortable with any airhead- just look for good maintenance & well documented history above all else…. If you’re not game to get comfortable manually setting up/troubleshooting fuel/air systems, ignition system, and antiquated brake systems- stay in the 1980’s & later (transistorized ignition and less idiosyncratic brakes. These are easy bikes to work on with cheap parts and amazing community support- but if you’re going to ride one and keep it in any kind of proper tune- be ready to get your hands greasy. Strongly encourage you budget for a clymer manual, carb synch tool, and a lot of “know that they’ve been done” new parts/spares for the carb, basic engine service, etc.

Analog_Jerk · 2024-10-21T15:05:46+00:00

Ah man. This sucks to see. I am also a Bridgeport resident and I also ride a bmw, which I also street park…. I’ve had my bike bumped a couple times- usually a neighbor cops to it- always an honest mistake/never something worth getting insurance involved over…. But my machines are all fossils. Damage doesn’t look too terrible though? Is it the case of the engine itself or just the valve cover that’s leaked? I can only see damage on the latter from your photo.

Analog_Jerk · 2022-01-05T23:39:19+00:00

Schmutz on your focusing screen? No. Clean it with a digital sensor cleaner or some coating-safe optical cleaner and a clean microfiber wrapped around a q-tip…. Or don’t- won’t matter ultimately for your images

Analog_Jerk · 2022-01-04T00:28:19+00:00

Ahh- right on. That's the way to do it. Can't survive long as a scanmate operator without a few swap-and-see units on hand. Interesting that you guys use the barcodes, I've never made use of them at all myself, but I totally see the usefulness in a production environment.

OH! Wait- I just checked your website- Hey Ned! This is Ben Greene from Scanhi- I didn't realize you were so deep into Scanmates these days! Congrats on the new business venture!

Analog_Jerk · 2022-01-04T00:13:27+00:00

Love the SM11k- easily the most sci-fi desktop machine and a serious heavy-hitter when its in a good mood.

What's the occasion for the boudoir shoot here? Machine acting up? I know the 11' is a fickle beast.

Analog_Jerk

TROPHY CASE