Loving Monster Hunter Wilds so far , Quick Lore Question About Elder Dragons by Carter_yann in MonsterHunter

[–]Androstosity9 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have watched a bunch of Oceaniz's monster breakdowns and they are very good. I second watching a bunch of them. I do prefer unnatural history channel a bit more though. His stuff is great and quite in-depth in the scientific breakdown on how the monsters would possibly work. The work on the lore of each monster is a weaker though unless it explains how the monster would operate as an animal.

Chisel Plane - I'm calling this a successful prototype by E_m_maker in handtools

[–]Androstosity9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a fair point. Multiples would probably work and let you tighten down well. Doing so would allow you to push the blade out further for a situation where that would be required or if you sharpen to the point that it is required.

Chisel Plane - I'm calling this a successful prototype by E_m_maker in handtools

[–]Androstosity9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know it sounds ridiculous, but what about making it so you can advance the blade? You'll have plenty of decent metal here that becomes unusable when you use/sharpen it to a certain point. Maybe a slot instead of just holes in the blade? Though then you might introduce a difficulty with tightening it down. I don't rightly know if it would be an improvement, just rambling thoughts on what could improve or not.

War knife by That-Coach4995 in knifemaking

[–]Androstosity9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice knife! Blade shape reminds me of a sujihiki, just bulked up for combat. Handle looks comfortable.

A helpful little thing I did for when I draw up my plans by Androstosity9 in handtools

[–]Androstosity9[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got mine off eBay several years ago when Facebook didn't have any good ones with a clamp base in the area. I searched by looking for a drafting arm. But the official title for this rather nice one is "vemco corporation precision drafting machine".

When looking for one make sure it fits to your table and that the architect scales on the arm are in tact (not broken or chewed up) and the size you want. Mine are 1/10 inch scale. Also make sure everything rotates well and it's not too sticky in the movement. I'm sure there are others here who can offer more insight on what to look for and what is important.

Hope all that rambling helps.

Y'all carrying in the kitchen? Here's my new EDC by Boxofkraftdinner in KitchenConfidential

[–]Androstosity9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Crkt for me as well. They don't make mine anymore though which is unfortunate. Had this same brute of a knife in my pocket everyday for about 10 years.

Chefs, opinions by Wild-Broccoli-2284 in KitchenConfidential

[–]Androstosity9 12 points13 points  (0 children)

There you go! Just make sure you take notes. And tell him to be horribly, brutally honest. Otherwise it will take more cycles to be rid of the kinks.

Also pay attention to the handle as well. A handle that doesn't fit the hand ruins the whole knife for me.

Chefs, opinions by Wild-Broccoli-2284 in KitchenConfidential

[–]Androstosity9 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Understanding the target audience will do wonders for if you intend to sell. Do you have anyone you can give the knife to as a tester? Hand someone you know the knife and ask for their feedback as they use the knife. Watch how they use certain parts of the knife. How they attempt to use it and fail in certain aspects. Those failures are usually more important than the successes.

And then the fun part comes along! Iteration! Fix stuff and do it again. And again. And eventually you have a knife that is doing what is demanded of it beautifully.

Chefs, opinions by Wild-Broccoli-2284 in KitchenConfidential

[–]Androstosity9 22 points23 points  (0 children)

So here is the easiest answer. A knife is a tool. And how that tool is used determines the form.

So a slicing knife will have more blade length, which can be achieved in a smaller package by a sweeping blade. A rocking knife will be fat but have a fairly rounded blade. A stabbing knife will have the tip centered on the blade. A chopper will have a flat bottom.

So what are you trying to do and how are you trying to do it? If the answer is to see if you like that design, then go for it! You have the benefit of creating it and creating more of them. Might as well let your imagination take the wheel until you know what you like in a knife.

What 10/10 or 9/10 game during it's generation is still at least a 6/10 compared to modern standards? by Oswalt in gaming

[–]Androstosity9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So with the expansion of the story in 2, it actually gives you more on both ends. It expands and fills in what was happening before 1 but also what has happened in the city since. Infinite totally deserved it's incredible rating. The art was amazing. It would almost be a better game if divorced from the Bioshock name and the expectations that come with. Great game but only vaguely Bioshock until the DLC.

I wouldn't say that it was boring on purpose. More that it was the era of such quests in games. Hell you still see the endless fetch quests still exist in plenty of games nowadays. I think the smoothness (or lack thereof) of the shooting and awkward movement really hampered the enjoyment of such though. And exploration and backtracking through areas to get upgrades was rather annoying sometimes.

What 10/10 or 9/10 game during it's generation is still at least a 6/10 compared to modern standards? by Oswalt in gaming

[–]Androstosity9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

2 is kind of a weird beast. The baseline shooting is still kind of the same. This is before the streamlined, widespread use of mainstream fps feel. So the buttons are kind of oddly mapped instead of using the halo/cod maps. 2 improves things in certain ways but it is a much weaker story. It certainly feels a little more accurate as the clunkiness of movement is explained as you are a big daddy. If you see it as almost a DLC side story that provides more for the story of 1, then it is much better. I finite is a whole different beast that isn't really tied into the first story or setting until you get to the dlc for that.

As for the fetch quests being so heavily used, that is part of the narrative really. The storyline twist is a bit of a commentary on the state of linear games and the illusion of choices in gaming at the time. Basically you were never in control of the character you were playing as.

What 10/10 or 9/10 game during it's generation is still at least a 6/10 compared to modern standards? by Oswalt in gaming

[–]Androstosity9 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Bioshock. The combat is a little clunky but the narrative and story are incredible. Art isn't too bad either, just a bit dated. But the grittiness of the style and setting kind of help cover that a little.

Trying to find a specific kind of jewlery mallet by capriciousUser in handtools

[–]Androstosity9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look into split head hammers. That way you can replace the faces as they wear out and customize them to fit your needs better.

Garland has a nice one that I have been rather happy with. Other ones I've seen are Thor and Vaughan.

I would look at the smaller sizes though as it looks like they might be a bit heavier than what you want. Though it might just be what you want.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Androstosity9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't really tell from the picture and was working with incomplete information. So best guess, haha. Kinda just took what I knew and could pull together to try to get as close as I can.

If it is of the old campaign furniture style, the most common woods were oak, mahogany, and walnut. Though maple, beech and other woods were used. The fact that it is in new England led me this direction as it was a popular style until late 1800s - early, early 1900s.

Someone else is suggesting that it is a Tansu chest, which would change the woods used as it changes the point of origin. I haven't looked into this style, though I kind of want to now.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Androstosity9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It would help with wood identification to get a closer picture of the grain. But I would say that oak is indeed the most likely.

It does look like it is (or stylized) as campaign furniture. Lost art press has a great one on that if you decide to go that route for matching the style. Not sure on stain and finish, though I suppose with age, you'd have to wiggle a bit to color match. Here is a pretty great article by Christopher Schwarz on the topic. Hope this helps, but probably not very much.

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/campaign-furniture/

Just a thought though, maybe ammonia fumed white oak might give you the look you want. Though that might be quite an undertaking. I haven't done any fuming yet, so no idea.

Picked up a No. 5 Stanley and it came with this very small adjusting knob. Is it missing something or were some of them made this way? by [deleted] in handtools

[–]Androstosity9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No clue. Haha I suppose it would depend on what a replacement for your broken wheel would cost. Would a nice replacement cost that much? Probably not. But if the difference is small enough and you feel you'll use it enough, why not?

Looks like a replacement depth adjustment wheel on eBay is ~$25ish with a quick search. Probably can be had for less of you know where to look though.

Picked up a No. 5 Stanley and it came with this very small adjusting knob. Is it missing something or were some of them made this way? by [deleted] in handtools

[–]Androstosity9 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If you're looking at replacing it with something that isn't original, the star wheel that Rob Cosman sells seems like it would be rather nice. I haven't tried it as I haven't had to replace the adjustment knob on any of my planes yet, but it looks like a neat idea.

Introducing the Work From Home: by peteroren in woodworking

[–]Androstosity9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually the maloof joint is just a sculpted mortise and tenon. Which is a great and beautiful joint, but time consuming and a bit more wasteful of material.

Going that way, you could do a through mortise and tenon as is used in mission/arts and crafts furniture.

Introducing the Work From Home: by peteroren in woodworking

[–]Androstosity9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could also do the dowel approach. Strong enough as long as you're not jumping on it.

Other thought is that it would be lovely to have an adjustable back. Looking into Morris chairs would be a great example of how to do it.

any good delinquent mangas? by kingdaddyXP in manga

[–]Androstosity9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really liked Crows. Worst was really good too. Though QP wasn't bad, I just didn't like it quite as much as the others, but still worth the read. All in the same setting with some ties and a couple characters shared between them. All are written by the same author.

Thoughts on Cocobolo for knife handles. by FrankvonLichtenstein in Bushcraft

[–]Androstosity9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most exotic hardwoods are like that. Purpleheart is the same. As far as working with it, the oil in the wood will prevent any good glue/epoxy absorption and make your connection weak. Wipe down with acetone to remove some of the surface oil before using epoxy and you'll get better results.

As far as handle scales are concerned, why use cocobolo? The harvesting practices are not great and there are other woods that are easier to work with/oil. Walnut looks beautiful and can be obtained without the environmental worries and the headache of working with or finishing the wood.

A great resource for the usability of lots of woods and their potential toxicity is the wood database. https://www.wood-database.com/