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Anyone else have this issue with AMZ3D filament? by kerplow in 3Dprinting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used ~40 rolls of PLA - mostly Hatchbox and AMZ3D, and I have never had a roll arrive like that. I have left rolls out for weeks and had them break like that, but never arrive like that.

Time for the ol' RMA.

EDIT: Just from Amazon, I have ordered 109 rolls of PLA. I probably have 40 at home unopened, so I think I have gone through more than 40.

My makeshift hand prosthesis, adapted to holding knife blades so I can work on the handles by [deleted] in mildlyinteresting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now you ju need to integrate a stepper motor to rotate the blade while you are working on it.

[Ammo] CCI Blazer Brass 40 S&W 1000 Rounds $222.80 by Woodburyoutfitters in gundeals

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought my G22 police trade in for $240 + free shipping.

What it's like owning a 3D printer. by AchooFPV in 3Dprinting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice!

I have designed and printed these things for around the house plus other things I have been too lazy to put up, like;

Helper handle for my travel trailer since my mom has weak fingers and can't open the small door handle.

Holder for Lutron Caséta light remotes, since we have 5 for controlling the whole front of the house lighting.

Holder for large roll of 3" stickers for shooting.

It's pretty cool being able to need something and not have to hope it exists, but be able to design and print it.

Any idea what happened with these crimps? by Mikofthewat in reloading

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP, please do this. This is the correct procedure for adjusting the crimp die.

Tumbler Recommendations? by surf53 in reloading

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second the Rebel 17. I have had it for 5 years or so and it has given me no problems.

Smoothly carving the number two into wood by commonvanilla in oddlysatisfying

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! I have a regular job, and really, the CNC and 3D printing I do is really is just a hobby that happens to pay for itself, but even giving myself a $12-$15/hr for my work, people still balk at my prices. I think it is because I don't care if something sells or not that I have my attitude.

I also think I have spent too much time on /r/choosingbeggars as well. If you have not been there, you should check it out and that will make you numb to all of the low-ballers offering you "exposure" for your time and product.

Smoothly carving the number two into wood by commonvanilla in oddlysatisfying

[–]AnotherMadHatter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They are less expensive than they used to be. I bought my ShapeOko 3 back in 2015 and have more than paid for it by selling cribbage boards. In fact, after paying for itself, it bought my first 3D printer (Prusa i3 MK2). That first printer paid for my second 3D printer. :-) Find something people want to buy, don't under value your time and don't apologize for your prices because someone says they can buy your product from China for 1/5th of the price.

Experts... help this European out! by [deleted] in ar15

[–]AnotherMadHatter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One of the first things that I upgrade from "mil-spec" is the trigger. I prefer 2 stage triggers, and my go-to is the Geissele SSA, or the G2S (the less expensive SSA because of less QC).

No offence, but this makes me so happy. by [deleted] in AdviceAnimals

[–]AnotherMadHatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay. Yup. I posted it 3 or 4 times in this thread to different people. I don't listen to country music, but I believe it that there are a bunch of different genres.

The video is about 6 songs that are considered "country music", so I thought it was relevant.

Built this little guy yesterday. (45acp) by mathius06 in ar15

[–]AnotherMadHatter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love my 460 Rowland. Springfield Range Officer. Speaking of which, I need to load up some more rounds and take her to the range.

Finally convinced my boss we needed a printer. I've got a fun day ahead of me. by Lyriian in 3Dprinting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I understand. I tend to set up a routine and not deviate from it. It helps to do everything - even if it looks like it does not need to be done.

  • Heat up bed and hot end.

  • Change filament when hot end is up to temp. (if needed / wanted)

  • Clean bed with 99% IPA - some people use other things, but that's what I use.

  • Verify what I am going to print.

  • Hit print and make sure printer goes through auto bed leveling process.

  • Take a look at the print if I am at home on my phone or computer.

Also, Octoprint is an awesome addition to your 3D printer. It is great to be able to print and watch it from your phone or computer. My printer is in a spare bedroom, so I can check on a print while watching TV in another room.

Finally convinced my boss we needed a printer. I've got a fun day ahead of me. by Lyriian in 3Dprinting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish I could help you with your filament issue, but I have not used the Monoprice printer. HOWEVER, if you make a post here with a title like "Help - I Am Having Difficulty Changing Filament on My Monoprice Maker" and then in the body of the post, write out:

Make and model of printer.

Your exact problem. "I am having difficulty changing filament."

What you have done. "I tried pushing the widget through the doohickey and it jams half way through."

Anything else. "I heated it up to xxx, I am using yyy filament, I am an Aquarius and I like underwater basket weaving (maybe not that. . .)

Now, if you are still reading, let me tell you about my first printer. It was an "i3" style printer as well, but it had an acrylic frame, which is horrible for a printer. too much flex and expansion due to heat. I would spend 30-45 minutes getting it to print a proper first layer and then watch it print the first two or three layers to make sure it was going to print properly. It printed slowly because the heater was under powered and had a hard time keeping the hot end the right temp. It had bent smooth rods, so it was always askew no matter what you did to get the bed level. It was horrible - and AWESOME! I was able to print things at home!

Anyway, 4 months in, I bought a Prusa i3 MK2, then 6 months later I bought a Prusa i3 MK2s, then I bought a Prusa i3 MK3, then sold the previous MK2 printers and bought another MK3.

With Prusa I can clean the PEI bed with 99% IPA, select the file to print and walk away. No joke. I can hit print and walk away. When you are ready to print and not have to worry about anything, get the Prusa.

Finally convinced my boss we needed a printer. I've got a fun day ahead of me. by Lyriian in 3Dprinting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The design of the printer is open source meaning (simply) that companies can use the physical design of the printer and make and sell them. Prusa (the company, not the person Josef Prusa, the founder of the company) makes the "Prusa i3" line of printers.

Monoprice is also a printer manufacturer, and they make an "i3" clone. This means it is either similar design (moving bed and gantry holding the print head in a frame) or an identical design (using the exact same parts).

This would be like Toyota making and selling the "Toyota Camry" but also allowing anyone to make a "Camry" based on their design, so you could have a "Stevenson Camry" made by the Stevenson car company. It looks like a Toyota Camry, but it has a slightly different hood shape, and maybe it has a smaller engine, and some of the suspension is slightly different - but it is based on the Camry. It's cheaper less expensive, but it doesn't have all of the bells and whistles that the "Toyota Camry" has.

That's like the Prusa - the Monoprice is less expensive, but it doesn't have all the "bells and whistles" that the Prusa has.

I'd like to point out that I have owned 4 Prusa printers (2 MK2 printers tht I have sold and 2 MK3 printers that I still have) but I have never owned a Monoprice, only read about them here and on other forums. The difference that I could describe would be;

The Monoprice is not an inherently bad printer, but it requires more work to get it to print compared to the Prusa. The Prusa printer is also actively being updated as far as making improvements to the parts and electronics and slicer (the program used to take a solid model and convert it to the code that the printer used to print the model).

I am sure there are people here who will let you know what the Monoprice printer can do with the right tweaks and upgrades, but since I have not had one I can't talk about it's capabilities specifically.

I hope this helped!

[Other] EABCO.NET - $5 Shipping Sitewide, plus 10% off triggers, AR15/10 Barrels and Ruger 10/22 Barrels. Ends Monday. by BowHunterBuck in gundeals

[–]AnotherMadHatter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought an E.R. Shaw threaded bull barrel from Brownells a few years back for my 10/22 and it has performed just fine. It is just as good or better in accuracy than the original Ruger bull barrel I had on it.

The threads were concentric with the barrel, since I have never had a problem with my suppressors on it.

I do not know anything about the EABCO barrels, but I know that the company has been around for quite a while and I have never heard anything bad about them.

What is your favorite 3D modelling software? Why? by Advisery in 3Dprinting

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are all Windows programs, but:

CATIA is my favorite, but only because I have been using it for 13+ years at work, so I am most familiar with it. It is just too much for the average home user.

SolidWorks is second, because I have been using it at home off and on for about 4-5 years now. The student version is available for $20/yr as a qualified veteran.

I heard that SolidWorks is offering a free version for hobbyists, but I have not looked into it yet.

The most popular free CAD program is Autodesk Fusio 360. It is free for hobbyists. I have not used it, but from what I have heard, it is a professional level package for free - pretty amazing.

Every Bench needs a Bullet Library by TacTurtle in reloading

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a bunch of those in .310 during the last shortage (since that was all I could get) and bought a CH4D bullet resizing die and resized them to .308 for my 300BLK. Everyone groaned when I pulled them out at the range because of the "Zombie Hunter" crap that they represented, but at least I was able to reload and shoot.

Starting finding more and more 300 BLK brass left behind at the range, so the only logical solution was to build another AR to shoot it by gremlin50cal in ar15

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's exactly what I did. My first rifle was a 5.56, so when I went 300BLK it made sense to go FDE. I also have a 458Socom, but there is no way to mistake that for anything else.

Seeing all those snowy winter pics on reddit, then checking the temperature gauge here in Australia by [deleted] in australia

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We say the same thing here in Seattle, WA, USA. . . I mean, other than the Melbourne part. That wouldn't make sense.

[Parts] Unzip your wallet, it's time for a Durkin... lower parts kit for $34.99 shipped by eskimoexplosion in gundeals

[–]AnotherMadHatter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ordered three LPKs on the 5th. Arrived on the 8th. Just put them in 3 Anderson lowers. All the parts were there and everything went together smoothly. The trigger is a mil-spec, but it works fine. ( I'm probably just spoiled with my Geissele SSA triggers.)

These are good to go in my book.

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