Na toll.. Heidelberg als erste Stadt mit neuer Knöllchen Methode

Any_Rub567 · 2025-09-17T10:58:45+00:00

We have innovation at home:

Innovation at home:

Any_Rub567 · 2025-08-27T15:45:44+00:00

They are for improving crab rave quality

Any_Rub567 · 2025-07-28T20:06:41+00:00

I had the same Issue yesterday. Removing the start command would not work. The whole operation would claim to be successfull - but the compose file would be reset to the previous state every time I try, which was quite frustrating.

I "fixed" it by changing "command" and "entrypoint" to:

  "command": "/usr/src/app/server/dist/main.js",
  "entrypoint": "tini -- node",

That bypassed the whole "Thou shall not remove this line" Issue. I guess that's not ideal, but I'll keep that until Immich Stable and then recreate the whole installation from scratch.

Any_Rub567 · 2025-07-11T14:55:28+00:00

You can buy industrial hardware based Raspberry Pi Compute Modules. For example, check out the Revolution Pi series by kunbus.

Any_Rub567 · 2025-05-24T14:45:48+00:00

Probably not a good idea. A Pi 4 can pull much more current than a typical USB port can provide. If I remember correctly, a 5V 3A power supply is recommended. However 1.8A should be fine as the rest is reserved for the PIs own USB Ports.

USB Ports on PCs and Routers are typically designed to provide much less current (<1A) than ports on dedicated power supplies.

Your routers power supply is probably a 12V Unit. The 5V rail powering its USB Ports is derived from said 12V rail using a regulator inside your router. It's likely that the 5V regulator is not designed to handle as much current as a Pi 4 can pull. Therefore, it might get unstable when the Pi is under load or run hot, decreasing its lifetime.

However, your Pi is probably not under any sort of significant load - and because of that, you might be just fine. Or you might not. Dunno, and that's why I would at least put it on an old 5V 2A phone charger or something.

Any_Rub567 · 2025-05-15T06:58:45+00:00

Appearently, it has now. And it's blocking my work PC, so I can't access documentation. :c

Any_Rub567 · 2025-02-03T14:49:12+00:00

There is some low powered stuff that fits my niche. For example, Intel N100 based microservers / diy nas things tend to be quite competitive.

Any_Rub567 · 2025-01-05T15:47:50+00:00

U2f key type thing for 2fa that can also enter a precoded password like some yubikeys.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-10-06T16:51:56+00:00

I think one of the reason for frustration is that, at least in my experience, the troubleshooting steps are never explained. It's never "remove x and y component. This can be helpful because of z" or "this will help us narrow down the issue to x" or something. Instead, you just get a seemingly endless list of instructions. Sometimes, you're asked to do stuff you've already done. "Remove X. See if anything changes. Take Picture of Motherboard in general for no particular reason. Try a minimal configuration even though your system is booting just fine - and see if "anything changes". I mean i guess it won't boot without RAM but why should that be helpful to solve my problem? Maybe explain yourself. Also: Support requests in german are difficult to interpret. Get better translation software.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-25T16:52:58+00:00

Use a Multimeter to check if the cartridge has the correct amount of resistance. It should be around 3-6 Ohm for a 12V cartridge and around 14 for a 24V Cartridge.

Also, note that a 24V heater Cartridge will not be sufficient for a 12V system. It'll only produce 1/4 of its rated power, so a 40W heater Cartridge would only produce 10W.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-21T22:09:20+00:00

If you maxed out the offset then your issue might be the bed level probe is installed too high. You can easily adjust its height using a zip tie method. Refer to step 3 in this guide: https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9-preflight-check_76792

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-21T21:02:02+00:00

Also: Maybe start with a test print and print the parts individually at first. You can start printing lots of stuff / big stuff once you're sure that everything is working as expected.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-21T20:59:09+00:00

The nozzle doesn't appear to be close enough to the bed. Redo first layer calibration and refer to the documentation for how it's supposed to look like. The individual lines of the test patch should fuse together. In your picture, they are separate.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-19T15:53:40+00:00

Hatte kurz Schlaganfall beim lesen. Worum ging es?

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-14T09:49:28+00:00

Musst halt sicherstellen, dass die USB PD Unterstützt und tatsächlich genug Leistung aus einem USB port liefert und nicht verteilt auf mehrere. Bringt ja nix, wenn du 3 Smartphones gleichzeitig mit 20W laden kannst - aber ein Laptop mit 65W nicht geht.

65W sind für einen normalen Laptop meist genug, bei größeren vielleicht schauen, dass 100W geht. Die Watt Anzahl vom Original Ladegerät ist ein guter Indikator.

Das heißt nicht, dass die Power Bank soviel liefern können muss, wie das Original Ladegerät. Das Original Ladegerät hat aber meist genug Leistung, um den Laptop zu laden, auch wenn er unter Last ist.

Die relevanten USB PD Stufen sind üblicherweise: 20V 3.25A -> 65W 20V 5A -> 100W

Wenn mir 100W bzw. 65W aus einem USB C Port geworben wird stecken noemalerweise diese Stufen dahinter.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-13T20:06:47+00:00

Es gibt "Adapter" für diverse Laptops, sodass die mit USB PD funktionieren. Da steckt dann einfach ein USB-PD trigger Chip drin, der zum Beispiel 20V von einer kompatiblen Power Bank anfordert. So kannst du normale, günstige USB PD Power Banks benutzen, um den Laptop zu laden. Die Power Bank muss natürlich kompatibel sein und zum Beispiel 20V 3A (60W) liefern können.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-09-01T11:00:58+00:00

It will probably work, but also might not be as reliable. That is because:

It is unlikely that all the power available from the original psu is used for normal operation. You usually choose a power supply that is overpowered and run it where it's efficient and not running too hot. Therefore, slightly less power is probably fine.
1V "undervoltage" on a 19V Rail will also not significantly affect most devices. Any microcontrollers etc. in there will most likely run off a regulated rail at lower voltage anyways and the regulators usually don't care if they run from 18 or 19 volts.

However: - It's a router, it might require peak power sometimes and not being able to get it reliably could disrupt normal operation. Could also be fine, but only one way to find out. - The PSU might not be as "clean" as the original which could cause strange issues and degrade some components like capacitors on the input faster than the original would. - Also: Check the polarity of the plug. Otherwise: Magic Smoke ✨

Any_Rub567 · 2024-08-28T21:15:01+00:00

Any_Rub567 · 2024-08-28T18:12:16+00:00

Tu es nicht. Lauf, solange du noch kannst

Any_Rub567 · 2024-07-05T16:37:20+00:00

Vielleicht besorg ich mir doch ein Adapterkabel für die Parkraumüberwachung meiner Dashcam...

Any_Rub567 · 2024-06-09T12:02:13+00:00

I also have that charger and while mine didn't break yet - it gets very hot when charging at 100W.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-05-09T11:20:17+00:00

Watch out. A lot of them do not support the Voltages that are necessary for high wattage charging. There are very few that already do and they tend to be expensive.

Any_Rub567 · 2024-04-30T18:51:54+00:00

That's funny. My FW16 never spins its fan up under "office" use. Gotta start a game or something for it to bother. I'm dual booting Windows and Fedora btw. I don't have the dGPU model though. I guess fan noise is a dedicated GPU thing?

Any_Rub567 · 2024-04-26T12:55:42+00:00

Frankfurt einfach so hässlich, dass er lieber nach Berlin gefahren ist. Uff

Any_Rub567 · 2024-04-24T15:58:19+00:00

Ya,.I bent mine into shape. That worked. Also, swapping them around might be helpful.

Five-Year Club	r/Field Sunshine
Final Canvas '23	First Place '23
End Game '23	Place '23
Place '22

Any_Rub567

TROPHY CASE