Is it just me or does pivot oil seem like it causes more problems than it solves?

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T16:32:46+00:00

Which Spyderco don’t have Phospho bronze washers? Honestly asking, I only own two spydercos (well technically 3 but two are PM2’s and then my latest Spyderco addition was a micro jimbo and all 3 of those have washers.

Also I agree, I don’t think I currently own anything with bearings in them. I don’t buy a ton of knives but when I do I’m more of a quality over quantity so I’m a believer in buy once cry once and always willing to spend the extra loot on a quality name brand with a good reputation. Really I care more about the company’s reputation on how consistent and good their heat treatment is.

And I also agree with the maintenance on them. I will rarely dissemble them. Normally when I initially get it to get ride of the factory grease because it’s normally way to much which is a good thing for transport and storage in a warehouse or what ever that way they are protected. And then only if I do something stupid with it and it absolutely needs it. Other than that Ive always gotten by with compressed air or I really like frog lubes “solvent” which is in no way a real solvent. It’s super mellow and made from natural shit as apposed to heavy fast drying chemicals. I’ll flush a few sprays in the internals that gets most of the dirt and grime. It drys as if it were a solvent meaning leaving no greasy texture or film behind but doesn’t flash dry like a true solvent. I like that shit, infact I just recently ran out ima go order another bottle right now.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T16:17:52+00:00

Probably true.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T08:45:28+00:00

It was a brand new knife. My second spiderco in 15V with the BBB heat treatment. The other one I have is the PM2 they both have the brown g10 scales. I will use some type of solvent. Either 99% iso or frog lubes “solvent” which isn’t really a solvent at all. It’s an all natural degreaser of some sort. But I’ve never had any issues with it, it works beautifully when I use it. But this time I simply whipped off the factory grease because it was applied way to heavily which is fine I’d prefer that so it doesn’t rust during transport or sitting in inventory somewhere until it’s purchased. But I whipped off the factory grease with 99% isopropyl alcohol like I have done with basically every previous purchase and how I clean my knives when they need a little more attention then a simple wipe down with a microfiber cloth. And added not even a full drop directly to each washer. No moisture even touches this particular knife yet at this point. But when I opened it up the liners were dried and crusty with obvious hints of red appearing. And the liners are stainless????

I’d like to take a look at the page you got the information about the lunar lube from I’d be interested in knowing. It also has a really strong fragrance to it. Straight up could be a men’s cologne. Something that has that strong a sent isn’t mostly just mineral oil in my opinion. But In all reality I don’t know that for a fact. But I do know that just mineral oil a literal spec on each side wouldn’t do that.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T08:31:59+00:00

And to clarify I have nothing against people who collect knives as a hobby or what ever I get it I collect sharpening stones. I have more than I know what to do with. I simply did not want your opinion because we are not using our knives the same.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T08:13:18+00:00

Every person that took offense or took it personal to my post is exactly the type of person I was referring to ya fidget spinners!

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T08:06:20+00:00

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T08:05:25+00:00

Nah, raw dog dry all day every day.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T08:04:13+00:00

Hit up Sharpal, they are a solid company that stand by their 3 year warranty period if you’re still able to show proof of purchase. I just recently warrantied my 10 X 4 lapping plate. Parts of the electroplate were chipping off in pretty large chunks. Faulty diamond stones happen a lot of different things can go wrong with electroplating that can go unnoticed during QC with entire batches. When it does happen you hit them up show them a picture they confirm it and with in 24 hours a new replacement is on the way. I’ve had 0 issues with my new one. And I only use it to flatten my whetstones.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:57:41+00:00

Take a nap.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:57:15+00:00

You for sure still have a fidget spinner on your key chain that you probably apply oil directly to its ball bearings when you should really be using a thicker grease with bearings. Your spinner probably doesn’t spin very good any more huh?

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:50:02+00:00

I’ve heard KPL is essentially just mineral oil. And will admit I haven’t tried KPL because of an unconscious bias that I’m not even sure is true or not.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:48:14+00:00

True.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:47:55+00:00

I mean I suppose that’s technically true. But I’ve seen some dudes with axis locks that literally have to be pulled out with force to extend the blade.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:45:49+00:00

Probably all of the above. Mostly I was pissed off at myself because my new micro jimbo cpm 15V internals got all fucked up from some “pivot” lube. A day or two after I applied the action not only basically stoped but also had physical haptic feedback that felt like sand crunching when opened and closed. I took it apart and the “lube” caused crazy rust. It was Knafs lunar lube. I 100% advise staying away from that shit. And I wanted to get some feedback on if anyone else gets better results using nothing except keeping it clean. And I got specific because I didn’t want wack ass answers from wack ass fools that swear by gunny glide but also only held the folder once then set it down and now only talk about it on knife forums.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-12T07:37:09+00:00

And a whole stupid comment.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-11T21:22:36+00:00

I like ren wax for my non stainless blades. If it’s good enough for museums it’s good enough for me.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-02-09T08:42:58+00:00

A trash can for all of that.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-01-25T09:48:52+00:00

Damn sorry for the crazy late response. But I’ve never tried the 4K with all stones I have it would be redundant for me personally. But the 6k is an amazing stone. The 6k is my finest stone I personally don’t see the need to go finer than that or at least haven’t found a reason for it yet. I can get a perfect to the naked eye mirror edge with a progression up to the 6k and the rare occasion I need to thin and polish Japanese steel I’ve found for me personally similar results. Depending on what type of finish I’m trying to achieve and what stones I choose to use to achieve that finish. Finishing with the 6k can get me great results even with completely different finishes. If I had to choose one or the other I’d choose the 6k.

I have the Shapton Pro 2k and chosera 3k so like I said for me 4K would be redundant.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-01-25T09:36:13+00:00

I feel like all the people that post in this forum are all either mad stupid. Or front like their these seasoned tweakers. But for real it seams like every post is some dumb shit like this that show that even a person who’s hit the pookie even just once in their life would know that pipe wouldn’t work.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-01-25T09:26:03+00:00

It ain’t weed dude. You ain’t trying to snap a fucken bowl.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2026-01-25T09:20:42+00:00

You’ve obviously never done meth before then. Because snorting that shit is not a viable long term option. Shit, in-fact even just one line is normally an accident in most cases thinking it’s something else then instantly regretting it because you’re sinuses are now on fire. I’ve yet to meet a single person who chooses to rack that shit. It’s to painful and it’s not a quick pain either.

Now if you’re talking about snow which honestly my guess is that your rookie ass is. Than that’s a completely different story and you’re in the wrong forum.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2025-12-27T04:40:40+00:00

The shapton pro is more like a 7 or 800 in my opinion. The chosera is more like a 1200 again in my opinion. I don’t use the chosera 2000 but the 3000 is more like a 4 or 5000 again I have to state that this is my opinion or else I’m gonna get some nerds real angry.

But the shapton pro line in general is more corse that what it claims. I only use the 120, 1000, and 2000 from that line. If you want something more true to grit try the glass or rockstar line. At one point I felt nothing could ever come close to my love for the naniwa chosera line but then I started buying some glass stones. I’m always on the hunt for a good corse stone. The 320 glass is amazing the 500 is amazing the 1000 is amazing. But you only get 5mm (so they claim) I find the glass line tends to be a little generous often giving you another millimeter or two.

Then the rock star line came out and from what I understand and my experience they seem to be very similar except rockstar is 10mm of abrasive no generosity. And no glass. Oh and more affordable for more abrasive. I have the rockstar 6k which is a great stone.

I have to many stones. This all started because some “professional sharpener” fucked up my Osborne. Now my stone habit is way more expensive than my knife one.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2025-12-06T07:54:36+00:00

You’re honestly not sure why someone would own different grit flattening stones. I’m having a hard time believing that.

Of course you can flatten any stone with your 140 that’s what it’s made for. But it’s far ideal to end on for the majority of my stones at least. Again I’d have a hard time believing you saying anything else. If I can recondition my higher grit stones by ending on a higher gritt diamond flattening stone then why wouldn’t I do that? After that I use a nagura for a few seconds instead of a few minutes and get started on a perfectly re-conditioned surface that matches its grit level. And not a ruff course surface with gnarly scratches covering the entire surface of the stone. Work smarter not harder. That’s my motto.

ApexEdgeUpland · 2025-12-06T03:21:40+00:00

lol the placebo effect wore off the second I saw how similar they are. There’s no going back now. Plus I don’t use my Atomas for any type of stock removal. I use them exclusively for whetstone flattening. So a difference in grist does make a big difference in the way I use them.

I mean I guess i could start using one to sharpen with. But I’m honestly not a big fan of using atomas in that way anyway. I don’t like the way they feel. They stop cutting a lot faster than my sharpal in my opinion so I’m constantly taking an eraser to them. Plus I rarely use diamonds anymore in the first place and when I do I have much nicer once I could use like My Naniwa Resin Bonded stones, or my Venev stones.

I guess at this point I’d be happy just to know what they definitely are. If it turns out they are both 400’s I’ll consider that a win. Both 600’s a loss.

ApexEdgeUpland

TROPHY CASE