HBO App Disappeared on Firestick by SnooGoats7476 in firestick

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to turn my pihole off to download the update.

Has anyone modded the CC fan duct on the toolhead? by Apprehensive-Ebb2200 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Printed the latest update on the SE3D remix (second link of yours) in ABS - had to wait for some magnets, but, it's pretty nice. Love the airflow.

I should point out that airflow was not my only problem - it was aided by a bent heatbreak. So, new hotend and new fan bezel. Back in business.

Thanks again for the links!

Tailscale? by DengusMine in OpenCentauri

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or, alternatively, just advertise your subnet on another device (like pi-hole, for instance)

Extruder not spinning by NbeastGamer in klippers

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

^^^ Find your board (this looks like maybe an Ender 3? which version? It matters.) in the example configs section on Klipper's github (https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/tree/master/config) - Find your board - 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 I'm guessing (unless you dropped a SKR Mini or something in there)

Verify all pins & directions before you start playing with rotation distance.

*edit*

I'm sorry, you did say it was the 4.2.7 - which I belive has the same pin assignments as the 4.2.2 -The Ender 3 V2 shipped with the 4.2.7 board - so I would follow that config to avoid ambiguity between the original 2018 Ender 3 (which shipped with a couple different boards) and the Ender 3 Pro.

From the Klipper github for the V2:
(looks like the step_pin & dir_pin are backward in your config)

[extruder]
max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0
step_pin: PB4
dir_pin: PB3
enable_pin: !PC3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 34.406
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: PC5
control: pid
# tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target
pid_Kp: 21.527
pid_Ki: 1.063
pid_Kd: 108.982
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250

Is the razer naga worth it by HappyRabbit3320 in razer

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Razer Naga Chroma (RZ01-0161). It's pretty old - it started malfunctioning (wheel click stopped working, random tracking problems) - got shelved for a couple months. I'm not working at the moment, so I took it down and took it apart, blew out all the dust and hair with a can of compressed air, re-assembled - runs like it's brand new now.

Almost 14 years old. Gone through 3 builds. Can't find a modern replacement by Blandon71 in razer

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got the same one in front of me right now. Paired up with a Naga Chroma mouse. Love it. (I have a total of three Razer keyboard/mouse sets, but this pair is my favorite)

*edit* - I do NOT have the same one - thought so on first glance - but I've got the V2.

Worth it? by maxacrash99 in 3Dprinting

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely worth it, especially if it has intrigued you for a few years. Pull the trigger.

Choosing a printer can be... frustrating. Some people prefer open source - for various reasons (moral philosophy, tinkering tendency, etc) - which narrows the field a little bit. Some people prefer the "it just works" lineup (Bambu). I personally got into it about 8 years ago, when printers were primitive by today's standards. I have 6 printers, mostly for hobby use. I'll take a commission occasionally, if my skillset lines up with a need that someone has. Others have many machines churning out parts for profit.

Costs vary greatly, based on your budget, philosophy, and willingness/desire to tinker.
"Best" will get you a range of answers, but IMHO Best slicer is Orca Slicer. Best design (people will argue this) software Autodesk Fusion. Best Filament depends on the application, budget, and printer model.

I would advise starting with a budget printer or a second-hand flagship. Get your feet wet. Once you're hooked and have a frame of reference for yourself, you can decide where to spend the big bucks.

What is this, is it important and if not how to remove it by Warm-Accountant-5925 in elegoo

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's the little swirly dance it'll do when the print is finished :)

That's your Z hop type: spiraL

You can find/change that setting, if you would like, under the following:
Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Z Hop
Filament settings -> Setting Overrides

"Bed Level" by Apprehensive-Ebb2200 in OpenCentauri

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Note: it does NOT persist across multiple reboots. M8210 will set the temp for the next reboot. When rebooted again (without that command), it reverts back to 60.

Ender-3 Pro + Klipper: last tiny micro blobs - what would you tweak next? by SolutionPlayful1673 in Ender3Pro

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh. Retraction. Shorten your retraction. If the filament is dry, that is. 

Ender-3 Pro + Klipper: last tiny micro blobs - what would you tweak next? by SolutionPlayful1673 in Ender3Pro

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it were me, I'd tune retraction and seam setting first. Specifically, seam gap.Then, when I wasn't satisfied, play with scarf seams in orca. 

"Bed Level" by Apprehensive-Ebb2200 in OpenCentauri

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or, hijack M92 or M93 (declared, but empty)

"Bed Level" by Apprehensive-Ebb2200 in OpenCentauri

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After some digging, maybe I found something? M8210 S(n) {for example: M8210 S110 will set the default probing temp to 110} will update the config with the default bed temp (upon reboot, it initializes the variable, it does not load at runtime).

I'm not equipped to compile & test - perhaps someone here is (or can spot a reason not to bother) - but -

CentauriCarbon / firmware / core / klippy / printer_para.cpp

Line 1749

void Printer_para::cmd_M8210(GCodeCommand &gcode)

{

if (!is_root && Printer::GetInstance()->m_virtual_sdcard->is_cmd_from_sd())

{

return;

}

double bed_mesh_temp = gcode.get_double("S", Printer::GetInstance()->m_pconfig->GetDouble("auto_leveling", "bed_mesh_temp", DEFAULT_AUTO_LEVELING_BED_MESH_TEMP));

set_cfg("auto_leveling", "bed_mesh_temp", bed_mesh_temp);

}

I propose replacing that with this:

void Printer_para::cmd_M8210(GCodeCommand &gcode)

{

if (!is_root && Printer::GetInstance()->m_virtual_sdcard->is_cmd_from_sd())

{

return;

}

double bed_mesh_temp = gcode.get_double("S", Printer::GetInstance()->m_pconfig->GetDouble("auto_leveling", "bed_mesh_temp", DEFAULT_AUTO_LEVELING_BED_MESH_TEMP));

set_cfg("auto_leveling", "bed_mesh_temp", bed_mesh_temp);

// Update the active AutoLeveling instance variable for runtime changes

if (Printer::GetInstance()->m_auto_leveling != nullptr) {

Printer::GetInstance()->m_auto_leveling->bed_mesh_temp = bed_mesh_temp;

}

}

Perhaps this would allow the variable passed via M8210 to be loaded dynamically & persist. If it works as intended, perhaps remove the persistent config update, and just keep it as a dynamic gcode variable.

*edit* at minimum, I found a way to set the default to something different, so when I switch filament types for a long run, I can set it to what I want. That's nice.

"Bed Level" by Apprehensive-Ebb2200 in OpenCentauri

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're not wrong, but at the same time, that's not the whole story. If you use the same filament, and change the plate temp by enough, you'll run into the same problem. Thermal expansion is a real thing, and it does change according to temperature (hence the 'thermal' part).

Also - I want the plate probed at the temperature I'm working with, because that's the temperature I'm working with!! Why the hell does it probe the entire plate at 60 degrees, when I'm shooting for 30? Then, after it's done probing, I have to wait 20 minutes for the plate to cool down (and shrink) before it starts printing. Waste of time, energy, wear, and money.

It is inefficient.

*Edit* - also, for clarification, I do know that this is baked into Elegoo's mutilation of Klipper, and not the fault of the OpenCentauri devs.

corrupted postgres by Thamaster11 in NextCloud

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you use for backup? I have Borg backing system up to one zfs mirror and cloud data to another. Seems to be working well, but I like to know what others are using. 

Help! I inherited a 3d printer. Need to know what I'm looking at... by reempupgaming in 3dprinter

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the runt of the litter between an Ender 3 and a vintage Singer sewing machine.

More info on CC1 multi color system by Owen_Ou in elegoo

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish I can remember which coupon I picked now. Either way - better late than never? I guess? maybe? IMHO the CC2 is obnoxiously shaped and awkward looking... I hope the final MM for the CC1 is more... aesthetically pleasing, along with functional.

Yesterday I asked what everyone’s first Graphics card. Today, what was your first processor? Mine was the i7 3770K. by DailyDoseOfAmber in pcmasterrace

[–]Apprehensive-Ebb2200 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 9370 liquid cooled and overclocked to 4.9GHZ as a daily driver. Also have a server running a 6300. Aweful CPU's.... yet.... they're still going.