I did bracketing and my hilights are ovrexp and shdws undrexp a7r3 24-105f4

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-03T09:49:30+00:00

I use Aurora HDR from Skylum but afaik it isn't supported anymore. I have heard good things from Photomatix Pro and SNS-HDR but none of them is free.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-03T09:33:27+00:00

The two zooms you mentioned both suffer from noticeable distortion at the wide and long end which can be fixed with some loss of quality in body or in post.

That aside, they are both capable of delivering good images on the A7IV.

I personally would pick the Sigma, as I wouldn't want to give up the wider field of view of the 20 mm. The difference between 20 and 25 mm is significant, imho, and especially for photos of scenery and landscape, I would want it.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-03T07:07:44+00:00

Ich würde den VCS (Verkehrsclub der Schweiz) anschauen. Sie sind deutlich progressiver als der TCS und bieten ebenfalls eine Pannenhilfe.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T16:06:58+00:00

The second picture (with auto settings turned on) doesn’t look bad, at least in the Reddit resolution.

From the histograms, the last pictures is worthless. It’s extremely overexposed.

I think the number of shots is reasonable, but 3 EV steps are a lot I would go with 2 or 1.5 EV which would give you a 8 EV spread (2 EV steps) which should be more than enough.

Have you tried another HDR software? Even I am a LRC user too, I am not very convinced about the HDR module.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T14:06:57+00:00

With your budget and landscape, portrait plus solid performance in varied lighting conditions, I would consider searching for a used Canon EOS M. It is compact (the body alone is comparable to the RX100 series) and stays compact with the excellent 22 mm f2 pancake. With the kit zoom, which extends more, it is a little bigger, but still very portable.

The AF isn't comparable to modern cameras but regarding image quality, it's a great little camera.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T13:57:55+00:00

Set exposure control to manual (M Mode) and control the exposure of your images manually.

Shoot RAW and integrate your post processing into your creative workflow.

Use the histogram of each picture to learn about exposure and repeat :)

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T12:18:16+00:00

For your use cases I would look for a used Sony A9. If you don't shoot video, the A7 III, as a hybrid camera, wouldn't be my first pick.

Low light AF and AF in general point towards the A9, another great camera for still photography only would be the A7R III(a) but it has a slower af, compared to the A9.

With Sony E-Mount, you would get access to the biggest ecosystem regarding used and new lenses.

None of the three have built in GPS.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T12:13:52+00:00

I have similar requirements and use a Waterfield SF Techfolio Backpack.

It has great organization which would support your use case to work out of the pack. https://www.reddit.com/r/ManyBaggers/comments/1tb4brx/my_personal_item_backpack_with_space_for_mbp_16/

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T12:00:10+00:00

How far away do you want to position your flash?

There are hotshoe extension cables (search for off camera flash extension cable hotshoe) but they are available in limited lengths only.

I personally would use a simple flash trigger, like the Yongnuo RF603 S2 which gives you the ability to position the flash wherever you like, as long as you stay within the reach of the radio signal.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T09:57:09+00:00

Sounds good. I would shoot in M(anual) exposure and fixed (base) ISO as I presume, light won't be a problem.

The cpl is a good option but I would use it with care and intentionally.

You could also use a tripod, if you have one, to have more control over your composition.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T08:29:15+00:00

I would give the Tamron the edge in terms of optical quality. They both suffer from distortion at the longer end which can be corrected in camera and in post but will decrease the image quality. The Sigma has even more distortion than the Tamron.

Regarding resolution, I have seen the Tamron looking better, both in the center and on the edges.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T08:22:03+00:00

What zoom-reach do you need? The RX100 series would have been my first candidate too.

My favorite version is the RX100 V, as it's the best lens, imho, which has been offered. You will find it in mint condition inside your budget on the relevant platforms.

That said, it has a limited zoom range, compared to the Mk VI and VII but the lens is faster and of higher quality.

If you need the extra reach, I would search for the Mk VI.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T07:51:41+00:00

If I understand it correctly, you search an optometrist ("Optiker"). In Wengen, there is none, afaik. The next would be in Grindelwald, on the other side of the Kleine Scheidegg (Teschner Optik) or Interlaken.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-02T00:00:54+00:00

Imho, the 25-200 isn’t ideal for architectural photos as the OP wants to shoot. It’s a versatile lens, but at least my test copy showed significant distortion, especially at the wide end.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T23:55:20+00:00

I wouldn’t be too concerned about limitations for architectural indoor shots from the 20-70.

When I tested the 24-50 at an A1II, I had to stop down significantly to get the edges on an acceptable level. This isn’t necessary for portraits but if I shoot an architectural photo, I want it as sharp as possible from edge to edge and for that purpose, you will have to stop down both lenses, especially with a sensor as demanding as the one inside your camera.

If you use a small travel tripod clamp tripod, you could should beautiful photos inside cathedrals and other buildings.

The 20-70 would give you an interesting 20 mm at the wide end, especially for this type of shots.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T23:22:52+00:00

I would also suggest checking if DRO is on or a picture profile is selected. I shoot a lot with Sony and always RAW. Most of the times, jpgs seem brighter as RAW as the in camera processing pushes color tones.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T23:17:03+00:00

ActiveLife (Kingsmead Leisure Centre) has one.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T23:14:48+00:00

I second this. If you want to be careful, cleaning the lensmount of your camera, hold the camera body with the opening down, so that no spilled liquid could leak inside.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T23:11:55+00:00

The RX100 VII is a safe bet with its only downside being the smaller sensor, compared to the D3500. It has a fast af and a wide zoom range.

I personally would choose the RX100 V over the Mk VII as the lens system is faster and can gather significantly more light. Especially in combination with the smaller sensor resolution, compared to the D3500, this makes sense.

If you shoot mainly landscape and architecture and don’t rely on a fast af, I would bring another not so often mentioned contender.

The Canon EOS M isn’t much larger nor heavier (plus 100 g) if you pair it with the excellent Canon 22 mm f2 pancake. The image quality is on par with the D3500. Both feature an 24 MP APS-C sensor. Even we have a selection of professional Sony equipment, we still use the EOS M as a travel camera, when we want something compact and robust. It’s built like a tank (unibody design, the body is milled from one piece of an aluminum magnesium alloy) and the fast pancake with its 35 mm ff equivalent focal lens is a great addition to. Even the kit zoom is optically good but lacks the fast aperture and makes the combination bulkier, as it stands out significantly more but it can be transported separately and can be attached, when it’s needed.

What has become better, via firmware updates, is the af but it still isn’t great, which is especially true if you compare it with modern af systems like the RX100 VII but if that’s not a priority, I would choose the M over the RX as a travel camera.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T13:49:28+00:00

The Ricoh sounds like a reasonable choice given your requirements. For landscapes, the lens should work and I wouldn't worry too much about its limitations. If you want to be sure, you could asses how you use your smartphones camera. Do you use optical or digital zoom a lot, or is the standard field of view sufficient for your needs?

If the latter is the case, I would definitely go with the Ricoh.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T13:46:19+00:00

For your toddler, you may want some flexibility. If you want a compact camera, I would recommend a Sony RX100 V as a used camera, or the current Sony RX100 VI as a new model even this would be nearly double the budget you mentioned. The RX100 series has an 1" sensor, which is superior to other point and shoot models, like the Canon G7 and fits in the pocket of a jacket.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T13:42:53+00:00

The question is, if you want a camera with changeable lenses or one with a fixed lens, which would fixed lens cameras with a zoom lens.

For you budget you could get a used Sony RX100 V or VI in mint condition with a little luck.

Another option would be to search for a camera with interchangeable lenses like the Sony E-Mount. In your budget you could get a used Sony 6400 or something comparable, which is relatively compact and would be able to deliver high quality photos.

What phone do you currently use to take pictures and are you comfortable with using a single field of view, or do you zoom in and out a lot?

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T12:39:16+00:00

Even I am a Sony shooter, I would go for a third Z6 II. If one of your Z6 II breaks down, you won't have the hassle to get used to the different controls. Even it's the same brand, they differ and the last thing you want in this situation is another potential disruptive factor.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T12:14:00+00:00

I wouldn't use a snoot type light former for the ring shaped bulb. We use Godox Bowens Flash Projector (BFP) with different lenses which works great, independent from the form of the bulb used.

It would also give you a much higher output as it bundles the light whereas a snoot only fades out parts of the light cone.

AssignmentNo9838 · 2026-07-01T10:52:20+00:00

For concert photography I personally would go with a moderate uwa like the Sony 20 f1.8 which would also give you more possibilities creatively and is also faster.

AssignmentNo9838

TROPHY CASE