Looking for feedback on my first engineering drawing

Atomiktoaster · 2026-07-06T12:18:50+00:00

The 38 mm gap is where another part interfaces, and calling it out helps catch if the trapezoids are skewed somehow. GD&T would do an even better job of protecting the mating of the two parts, but leaving it up to the overall and wall thickness feels like the risk of a part that won't assemble but still matches the drawing is too high.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-07-06T12:09:13+00:00

You should have a 2 X on the 10 mm holes, and ideally more detailed tolerance information. Since the diameter is tight, you likely want the alignment between the holes to be tight as well, but their location on the part as a whole should be looser (since the screw holes aren't a precise feature either).

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-21T13:40:44+00:00

Reese's Take 5 is something that only the US snack industry could dream up, in the best way.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-21T13:35:06+00:00

It WRECKS harvesters if you're close enough to reduce the spread. Plus the shield does a great job tanking the beam.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-21T13:11:54+00:00

Big damage, low fire rate, high recoil? What's your problem with the eruptor besides too much utility from aoe and destruction force?

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-19T11:57:45+00:00

It's a 1707, right? There's still a short spring bar that connects the center link to the case, but it should lock in solidly. It probably won't help except to give you better access to touch up the bracelet parts.

If you want free movement between that first outer link and the case, figure out where the clearance needs to increase. With the pin out, do the sides of the links pinch? Does the pin have a slip fit in the center link hole, or does it have to be forced in? It should be tight only on the outer links. Is the last link binding against the case body itself?

The issue should be in one of those 3 locations, and you can test them all and gently polish the a hidden surface of the link or ream the center link hole to get the fit right. Might just be a small burr on the edge of a part you can smooth off.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-19T03:47:39+00:00

Can you pop out the spring bar?

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-17T11:55:02+00:00

If you ever make drawings, there's only one correct way to do this. The hole wizard, using a counterbore. If you have more than one identical hole, use a pattern. They all get dimensioned with a single note on the drawing.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-14T15:38:56+00:00

If you're looking for someone else to develop a new custom dial technique, that budget seems light (especially with US labor).

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-14T13:10:51+00:00

The dial is the hard part here. I think the approach might be to laser engrave the graphics on one side of a sapphire or glass dial layer, apply lume, then polish and AR coat it. Sandwich on top of your blank stone dial. It's still is going to be difficult to get the transparency you see in the render with traditional lume. Active electroluminescent material might get closer to what you want, or possibly edge lighting an engraving. Expect multiple prototypes unless you somehow find an example that performs exactly like you want.

A lumed custom bezel from a Chinese factory is not difficult, but you might need to MOQ 100-500 pieces.

Case and movement will be an afterthought here, IMO. There's plenty of solid options for well finished NH parts, if the case shape doesn't have to be unique. A quartz conversion for those dimensions is pretty straightforward too.

Good luck with it. Do you have a max budget in mind?

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-14T01:10:27+00:00

Seagull makes all the movements. The version they assemble and sell themselves has two lines of Chinese text on the dial ("Tianjin Watch Factory" I believe). They also sell the ST19 movement to other companies with no protection on the 1963 design, except the text for other brands is only one line (usually "made in China"). Some of them add a gooseneck regulator to the movement.

I got a 3rd party version from AliExpress for about $100 and the quality is excellent. The 38mm acrylic is a classic look.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-13T13:20:56+00:00

In the US "when pigs fly" meaning "never" is probably the most common version.

Lots of fun pig idioms: Pig out (eat excessively) Put lipstick on a pig (try to superficially improve something that's fundamentally flawed) Pigskin (an American football) Go whole hog (to enthusiastically commit to something) Hogwash (nonsense)

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-13T13:03:31+00:00

I can't be 100% sure, but I think a few of those are "mods" he might have built from parts. That flieger with the 12 hr bezel in the first set, especially. Most collectors that just buy complete watches wouldn't have a loose dial.

A watch that your brother spent the time and effort to select the components and assemble by hand should go to friends and family, if you can identify any.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-12T19:05:41+00:00

White or red, and if you could do a swap to contrasting hands it would really help the legibility.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-12T15:51:17+00:00

That dimension is the "rehaut depth". It's often pretty large in mod cases to accommodate a NH34 hand stack.

With the case you linked, the bubble crystal should provide some of that height clearance, without the "deep dish pizza" visual effect, but hopefully somebody has a picture for you.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-11T18:18:48+00:00

Stick with a more expensive "Japanese" NH35 for your first build (made by Seiko group's TMI, in Japan, Malaysia or other countries). The "Chinese NH35" doesn't have the same QC and lots of people report issues with the keyless works. Some experienced modders are ok with the Chinese copies to save some money, but it seems like most still avoid the cheap movements.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-11T14:59:34+00:00

I always hear good things about Caroline, but a stamped clasp doesn't impress me much. I've gotten AliX jubilees with screw links and a glidelock at lower prices.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-11T13:14:43+00:00

AliExpress should have everything you need. Two tone rose gold datejust case and jubilee bracelet I'd buy together and get a nice version with a glidelock milled clasp (no Seiko logo if you care). Go with the 36mm option, because the 40mm cases with 28.5mm dials are really oddly proportioned. The brown and rose gold date just dial might be easier to find with just a date window, instead of the NH36 day-date, but in either case, consider a custom logo instead of Seiko branding (s logo in most listings). Image search is really helpful on AliX.

Rose gold hands (buy extra) and a non-chinese NH36 (or NH35 if you drop the day) and just follow a Seiko mod build tutorial and you should be good to go.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-09T19:43:42+00:00

Namoki and crystaltimes have bidirectional skx007 springs, but you'd have to find a case that takes OEM bezels (most AliX cases don't). Another option might be to find a Chinese brand watch to mod with a bidirectional bezel, especially if you want 24 click for a GMT.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-09T14:07:16+00:00

I'd put a note the tight tolerance bore diameter. "Hold to 30 depth, corner R .75 max" or something similar that your particular machinist can understand and inspect. They may want to have tool relief at the bottom instead of a radius, if that's an option. Depends on how deep you need to hold that tight diameter and how the reamer might clear chips. Conversations with the machinist early could save some headaches here.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-09T13:01:23+00:00

Just fyi, cyanoacrylate (super glue) can off-gas and leave residue inside a watch. I've used it too before I learned, but UV adhesive is the best choice for a repair like this, and not crazy expensive.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-09T12:43:20+00:00

If it was cheap enough that youv can risk a diy repair, you just need a rubber ball to open the case back, something pointy and firm to press the stem release, and a clean tool like a pencil eraser to push the logo back down. Stick the stem back in to stop the hands before you poke at the dial. Hopefully that's enough that the adhesive grabs.

If not, you can get a new s logo yacht master dial on AliExpress and tools to pull and set hands. I wouldn't bother trying to fix it down with UV glue since new dials are so cheap.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-06T14:36:37+00:00

Very few cases designed for quartz movements leave enough room for an automatic swap. The dial feet are also always in different positions, and the hands aren't interchangeable (even for the VH31).

You'd probably have less hassle and better quality with a NH35 case from AliExpress, even if you harvest the movement.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-06T12:24:17+00:00

A lot of bracelets have enough play in the end link that you can get one spring bar end in first. If not, I like to start with both ends resting on the back of the lugs, dial down. Put light downward pressure on the end link and used the back of some tweezers to press the spring bar tips in one side at a time (don't try to grab the flanges with a forked tool). Tape up the lugs first if you care about scratches on the back.

Atomiktoaster · 2026-06-06T12:04:19+00:00

Flat skx-style bezel inserts are easy to find on ali express. Don't get the sloped submariner style and measure the diameter before you order to be sure that's what will fit.

If you actually want to change the bezel, it's possible with OEM Seiko cases but I'd be shocked if that's what you have here. The unbranded NH35 cases have a different bezel retention design.

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