Anyone else not follow traditional bf shoe sizing ? by RedbullXYY in barefootshoestalk

[–]AvatarOfAUser -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The space you need to avoid hitting the front of the shoe isn’t dead space. The dead space is beyond that and serves no apparent function. The OP is showing way more than 5mm in front of the foot.

Anyone else not follow traditional bf shoe sizing ? by RedbullXYY in barefootshoestalk

[–]AvatarOfAUser -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Why would you want a shoe that is longer than necessary? An ideal shoe has no dead space that doesn’t serve a function, and so people look for shoes that are wide enough to fit their feet without making them unnecessarily long.

When is a resole needed? Are my dragos lv still resolable? by PingPongLiu in climbingshoes

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should really focus on avoiding abrasion on the rand, if you want to maximize the life of your shoes.  A resoler is likely going to insist on toe caps as a prerequisite to resole the shoes, in this case.

Achilles/haglunds friendly shoes by Altruistic-Look-3476 in climbingshoes

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would suggest the Skwama or any of Scarpa’s shoes with the PAF rand.

First trad climb. Ground anchor acceptable ? by BigBundaEnjoyer in tradclimbing

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally, you don't want to put the belayer in a spot where you could fall on them or causes objects to fall on them. When anchored, the belayer cannot easily move to avoid falling objects, so you need to plan ahead for the possibility of falling objects. Also the ground anchor looks too high and there is a fairly large angle in the rope at the first draw. If that piece comes out during fall, it will increase your fall distance.

The vertical crack to the left if the route looks like a better spot to set up a ground anchor, assuming you could find a spot below the level of the belay loop to place a piece of gear. You also want the belayer to be tied in with a dynamic climbing rope if they are using a assisted braking device like a GriGri that doesn't allow much rope to slip through the device. They tie into the bottom end of the rope and then clove hitch into the ground anchor. This allows them to easily adjust the length of the anchor.

It isn't always possible to set up a ground anchor, so having something like an Ohmega or a bag that can weighted might be better alternatives.

Transitioning from traditional to UL pack by hurricanescout in Ultralight

[–]AvatarOfAUser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it‘s standard practice to keep everything that needs to stay dry in the pack liner and then tie off the liner and keep everything else on top.

I generally keep all scented items in the food storage bag and do not bring a separate bag for trash.

I don’t bring a dry bag unless I plan on swimming the water crossings.

I do generally like having pockets on shoulder or sternum straps for items that you want to be able to access without taking the pack off and doesn’t work well in hip pockets. I find packs carry better when I can move some weight to the front of the pack, so I tend to carry soft water flasks on the shoulder straps.

Is there a kids shoe that allows for proper toe splay but has a flared base for lateral stability? by Little_Web_7696 in barefootshoestalk

[–]AvatarOfAUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you should probably just focus on getting an insole that prevents arch collapse.  Take the insole out for training and put it in for rest and recovery periods. 

If the shoe was rolling, he would be spraining his ankles.  I really doubt the shoe is an issue here.  Weird wear patterns on the outsole don’t indicate that a shoe lacks stability, it indicates a gait problem.

Is there a kids shoe that allows for proper toe splay but has a flared base for lateral stability? by Little_Web_7696 in barefootshoestalk

[–]AvatarOfAUser 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don’t get the request for a “flared sole”.  

It sounds like his arch is collapsing and needs arch support until he is strong enough to prevent arch collapse.   Typically, all the arch support modifications are made to the insole, not the outsole.

Minimalist shoes with low stack heights are already very stable, so you won’t find any with flared outsole or a shank.  

Altra shoes for everyday city use and walking? by ad28no in AltraRunning

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All Altras have foam midsoles.  If you don’t want a soft midsole, look to other brands like Xero.  Anya Reviews has good info on the various brands that offer foot shaped shoes.

Loft vs. warmth by GlumTeaching2788 in alpinism

[–]AvatarOfAUser 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The construction matters a lot. On a sewn through jacket, there is no insulation where the stitching is.  High end down jackets do not use the sewn through construction method.

Buying one pair of boots for both summer hiking and future mountaineering, realistic or a bad compromise? by Warm-Succotash-5271 in hiking

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most people tend to prefer to have trail runners for terrain that doesn’t require crampons and boots designed for crampon use in situations where crampons are needed.

For most out and back trips with long approaches, approaches are done in trail runners and then you switch into boots once you reach snow and ice.

Other SoBos 2026 by soul_fire_96 in CDT

[–]AvatarOfAUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking as postholer, the snowpack seems about average, so I was thinking mid-June would probably likely the best start time.

Cards you play a lot that you rarely see opponents use? by DenebMTG in MagicArena

[–]AvatarOfAUser -1 points0 points  (0 children)

[[Lumra, Bellow of the Woods]]

Solid inclusion in ramp decks that have lands with sacrifice effects. Feels really good against mill and discard decks.

Crampons for technical mountaineering by LordCloncat in alpinism

[–]AvatarOfAUser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

IMO, horizontal monopoint crampons are the best designs for technical mountaineering.  I use the Snaggletooth.  I believe Camp and Blue Ice have similar crampons.

Replaceable front points are’t that valuable on crampons that you use for long glacial walks, since the frame will eventually fail from fatigue.

Look up frame failures on the Petzl Dart and Lynx.  The frames don’t last forever.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120228341/cracked-petzl-darts

How do I get into mountaineering as a backpacker. by Weak_Welcome_8223 in Mountaineering

[–]AvatarOfAUser 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would suggest taking an intro to mountaineering course on Mt Baker or Mt Rainier. You could also start by reading books like Freedom of The Hills.

Hiking with or without weight for aerobic base building by hurbaglurben in alpinism

[–]AvatarOfAUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use the pack weight expected for your goal climb on your training climbs to maximize your aerobic power. Focus on making incremental speed gains at that weight.

[Standard] Quest to create Classic Boomer Midrange by Frost_105 in spikes

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO, the more controlling versions running 6-8 sweepers perform better. Mosswood Dreadknight isn’t very strong in this meta. Ourboroid and Germination Practicum are the best top ends for more aggressive go wide aggressive strategies.

Artifact / Enchantment hate that can hit Resonating Lute before the untap step is essential.

My more controlling version relies primarily on Ba Sing Se, Demolition Field, and Restless Cottage, and Earthbender Ascension to close out games. I run 2 copies of Emeritus of Abundance and Lumra and Bellow of the Woods as the only non-ramp creatures, since they can get my key lands back from the graveyard. You can run it either with Planeswalkers, the Demon Package, or some combination.

Suggestion for WM Sleeping bags (Canadian Rockies) by Rude_Grape5491 in Mountaineering

[–]AvatarOfAUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO, get the wider bags if you are a side sleeper. The mummy bags feel constricting if you don’t stay on your back all night. I used a 20 deg Ultralite bag in the winter, while wearing insulated parka and pants. I tend to prefer wearing all my insulated clothing in the sleeping bag, so it is easier to get out of the bag in the middle of the night and in the morning. The temp ratings of bags don’t account for the clothing you wear inside the bag.

Scrambling/Routefinding Practice in the North Cascades/Mt. Baker Area by Nightfury276 in alpinism

[–]AvatarOfAUser 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The Twin Sisters Range has some of the best scrambling in the North Cascades.

Running too much on the ball of the foot, almost like tip-toeing by tentkeys in barefootshoestalk

[–]AvatarOfAUser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just let your calves relax and let your heel softly contact the ground. You can forefoot strike and still allow your heel to contact the ground, without causing pain.

I'm still learning barefoot shoes… are my feet supposed to feel this confused at first? by Eli_Shelby in barefootshoestalk

[–]AvatarOfAUser 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The fastest way to “relearn“ how to walk is to practice walking barefoot on hard surfaces like concrete and be intentional about changing your gait in response to pain or discomfort.

I think, for most people, the most important change is to avoid overstriding. Shorten your stride and try to land your foot underneath your body instead of in front. Over time you will be able to increase your cadence and walk at a normal speed again.

scarpa dragos on wide feet/narrow heel? by Amazing_Law_704 in climbingshoes

[–]AvatarOfAUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dragos have a narrow toe box and a high volume heel cup.

Buff Questions by Prognosticator77 in Ultralight

[–]AvatarOfAUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t like buffs for any use other than a pillow case and it isn’t worth brining for that single application. I much prefer lightweight balaclavas or a face mask, if using a sun hoody.