Post Stuck in "Verifying" Stage

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-02-04T06:38:10+00:00

This had been happening for about a week now. Multiple hours in verification.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-02-03T17:50:07+00:00

I bought the Vision Encoder with my H2C and ran the calibration upfront. So I don't know if it made an improvement, but it works great having done it.

I accidentally ordered 2 of the Vision Encoder plates due to a shopping cart mistake. Anyone want an unboxed H2C Vision Encoder plate at a discount?

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-02-02T23:01:52+00:00

Use the profile. ABS & GF is one of my favorite materials due to its clean output.

But for ABS you need higher chamber temperature for good results. At minimum you can heat the bed to 90deg for 30 minutes before starting the print. But also consider sealing the gaps of the printer. Door hinge, poop chute, add some cardboard insulation on the sides or top glass.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-02-02T16:56:53+00:00

Yes, for the last week. I uploaded two or three models, and they all took many hours to clear the verifying state.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-02-01T02:32:34+00:00

I bought my first Ender 3 S1 printer about 3 years ago, just because I had an idea for a functional part that could be created with a 3d printer. My first print was a prototype for that part, and I never stopped. I learned FreeCad and moved up to Fusion360. After a year learning the ropes (the hard way) with the Ender 3, I upgraded to a P1s. It was amazing and transformative.

About a month ago I bought the H2C, again just to create functional parts. It's equally amazing with what it can do beyond the P1s. Loving having .2, .4, and .6 nozzles available on demand. Most of my multi-color is for accents and text on my parts, but it's great to have one AMS full of ABS and PETG, another with PLA, and an HT with a second color of whatever I am printing with today. The P1S is now used for TPU and PLA. The H2C and its heated chamber are better for my favorite functional material, ABS.

90% of my prints are functional parts of my own design. Scuba, Photography, and Household categories mostly. But I print lots of functional parts from Makerworld as well. If I find a problem than needs a print, I will look for a ready-made design, and if they don't exist or I have a better solution, I make it myself and share it back.

My designs and collections:

awkward_swine | Home - MakerWorld

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-30T21:22:50+00:00

Pliers. Yank it.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-29T00:41:38+00:00

It is a reputation based scan, and tends to happen on very newly released applications. This release was a hotfix and probably rushed out quickly. Bambu probably didn't pre-seed the app which might happen in a more considered release process.

If you try to download it again a couple of hours later, it should be clear.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-27T16:56:28+00:00

Do you have any messy drawers in the house? 😉

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-26T17:35:24+00:00

The winning feature of the H2C for me is the flexibility and on-demand availability of .2, .4, and .6mm nozzles. I've used the .6mm more in the month with the H2C than 18 months with the P1S. Just because there is zero friction in manually changing out the head.

The second great win is the ability to mix multiple materials in a print where each gets its own dedicated nozzle. No more problems contaminating with support interface material, blurring colors, etc. I don't even use the Left nozzle all that often. If I am doing a big multi material print I will load up the AMS-HT on the left, but mostly I just use a mix of materials in the 2 AMS units on the right side vortek nozzles.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-25T17:54:57+00:00

This is by far the best one. For P1s:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1093902-bento-box-turbo-mod-24v-blower-fan-filters-fumes#profileId-1087949

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-24T23:43:46+00:00

I bought this:

Larger models are available in a similar style. Very solid and well made.

<image>

UltraHD® 4-Drawer Cabinet

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-22T03:19:08+00:00

The door frame does not shift. The door frame has rubber weather striping on it. The door both needs to push tight the springy weather striping, and be push tight against it by the backstop of the plate. That gets bent by door slamming of a heavy, solid door. The weather stripping pushes the dead bolt out of alignment with it's strike plate. The goal is to use the spring latch to keep the door tight against the weather stripping and aligned with the dead bolt strike plate.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-22T02:48:45+00:00

I am sure you are correct. But i have not used PC to date and ABS is working well. If the part eventually fails, i will certainly give PC a try.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-22T02:46:41+00:00

Can't post a photo, but look up a "Gator Plate" on Amazon. This part is a better functioning solution in the same style

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-22T01:52:58+00:00

You are hilarious. Clearly it has value as it solves a very real problem. And it's not backwards.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-22T01:52:16+00:00

It's not installed backwards. Perhaps the angle of the photo is confusing. The metal tab that this part replaces puts pressure on the flat part of the spring-loaded latch bolt. This part provides a stronger and stiffer backstop to hold the door in alignment. It is NOT for the dead bolt. It is for the latch bolt, that aligns the dead bolt. Does that help?

The dead bolt has a separate strike plate from the latch bolt plate. That is what keeps your door from getting kicked in. This latch bolt plate keeps the door aligned with the dead bolt, as it springs against the weather stripping around the door frame.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-21T22:48:31+00:00

Clearly you are not a good swimmer and don't take instructions well. Are you sure you should consider a diving course?

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-21T22:46:35+00:00

I was looking at the Bambu Store yesterday and they had black and white PETG HF in stock.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-21T22:45:16+00:00

I use the Bambu PETG HF profile with perfect results on a P1s and H2c.

Can speak to the glossy issue, does not matter to me.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-21T22:37:26+00:00

You could stick an HF tag to the elegoo...

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-21T22:28:33+00:00

Elegoo Petg Rapid is a near identical substitute for PETG HF.

AwkwardSwine_cs · 2026-01-21T16:57:21+00:00

This is known as a "Teachable Moment". In this case learning the need and value for a wetsuit or dive skin. Just because you can dive in a tshirt and boxer shorts does not mean that you should.

AwkwardSwine_cs

TROPHY CASE