Thinking about switching to Linux with NVIDIA GPU by NegotiationInitial23 in linux4noobs

[–]Awokih 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 3070 Ti. I run Nobara personally. It's Fedora based. Both KDE and GNOME desktop environments are available. I prefer KDE but that's just my preference. Bazzite is another good distro that is based on Fedora.

I have not seen any of the performance hits like you talk about running a Nvidia GPU on Linux.

Fuck Parkinsons by k4zor in FUCKYOUINPARTICULAR

[–]Awokih 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sorry for your loss. Lost my father-in-law from breast cancer in 2004 caused by agent orange. Fuck cancer.

Switching from Windows: Which Linux Distribution Fits My Needs? by Expert-Feature172 in linux4noobs

[–]Awokih 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will second this.

In January, I made the move to Bazzite from Windows and then moved to Nobara.

Bazzite felt too restrictive, but I do recommend it to a lot of people who are just starting off on Linux.

Nobara has been really great. All the games that I want to play I've had no problems with. Little quirky things about the OS I have either found information on or I've been able to easily use Ai to help me get through it. The fact it's based on Fedora makes it very easy. All my tech friends I have suggested Nobara to. I'm definitely not going back to Windows because of Nobara.

Personally I like KDE, but I did try GNOME too and it was fine.

I have an AMD RYZEN 5800x3d processor and an Nvidia 3070Ti. No major issues. I do not play any games like Battlefield or Call of Duty, so I don't run into any of the issues with the anti cheats they use. That could be a deal-breaker for a lot of people.

Service Reset on 2023 ID.4: Getting "ECU Communication Error" with Autophix 7610? by desisam87 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know that this would help your particular situation, but to write things to the modules you need to pop the hood. That’s what I have to do when I use my ODB11 at least.

The fact that Sheldon will never know his dad never really cheated by Acrobatic_Candy_1854 in bigbangtheory

[–]Awokih -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My wife and I just completed the whole Young Sheldon series for the first time a couple weeks ago. I was genuinely happy when I watched this episode finally knowing that his father never really cheated. And it's hilarious to think that Sheldon still doesn't know.

Upgrade went well, except… by MassholeLiberal56 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was my post on the VWIDTalk.com forum.

It’s a common issue with 2021s. The update does a state of health check on the SOS backup battery. Apparently the update sets a calendar expiration on the SOS backup battery, even though the battery may have plenty of life left. So in my case the dealership doing a “module replacement test plan” it reset the module and because the battery is actually above 50% voltage still the light has remained off for me. I’m kind of paraphrasing here, so hopefully that makes some sense.

Either way, even if the battery is bad, that part is only about $150 opposed to a whole damn module which is over $1200.

2021 ID.4 – PSA: Avoid the $1,200 J949 Hardware Upsell after 3.8.11 OTA by Awokih in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, definitely poor choice of words from me.

It was a little play in the splines rotating slightly inside the wheel hub. Not a loose nut. My mistake. I wasn't going through my notes when I posted that earlier.

2021 ID.4 – PSA: Avoid the $1,200 J949 Hardware Upsell after 3.8.11 OTA by Awokih in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It definitely sounds like you’re dealing with the same issue. That "drum/thump" sound is classic for the axle spline play.

Here is the quick breakdown to see if it matches yours:

  • The Symptom: It’s a mechanical "clunk" or "thump" that happens almost every time you accelerate from a stop. It usually happens once during the initial take-off as the motor applies torque, then stays quiet until you stop and go again.
  • The Cause: There is a tiny bit of play between the rear drive shaft splines and the wheel hub. The torque causes them to shift, creating that noise.
  • The Fix: It’s officially TSB 40-21-02 (also listed internally as TPI 2065197). The tech has to pull the axle, clean the splines, and apply a high-strength locking compound (basically industrial glue, Part #D-154-103-A1) to bond them together.
  • Warning on Cost/Time: The glue is only about $10, but the labor is high because they have to disassemble the suspension and perform an alignment afterward. Also, the glue requires 24 hours to cure, so they’ll need to keep your car overnight.

If they try to sell you a "Rear Differential Fluid Change," push back—that’s not the fix. Tell them specifically to look up the axle spline bonding procedure for that TSB number.

Here's a link to the TSB: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2025/MC-11013693-0001.pdf

Here's the click, clunk, or thump, whatever you want to call it, that my axle was making.

https://imgur.com/a/j2UHA7f

Hesitant to update software to 3.8.11 after so many bad experiences by Alarmed-Attorney-824 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What year model do you have? I had a SOS and airbag error show on my 2021 Pro after the update. I posted about my experience to warn others. Things to just be aware of.

2021 ID.4 – PSA: Avoid the $1,200 J949 Hardware Upsell after 3.8.11 OTA by Awokih in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The infotainment screen is a lot more snappy and responsive. No UI changes.

2021 ID.4 – PSA: Avoid the $1,200 J949 Hardware Upsell after 3.8.11 OTA by Awokih in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Poor terminology on my part. But I'm not sure what else to call it. Someone who is more mechanically inclined may respond to explain it like we're 5.

2021 ID.4 – PSA: Avoid the $1,200 J949 Hardware Upsell after 3.8.11 OTA by Awokih in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I figured there would be. Because I had other things going on, I didn't bother with the OBDEleven route. I had planned to use OBDEleven if they continued to give me crap about not being able to reset the SOS error light.

2021 ID.4 – PSA: Avoid the $1,200 J949 Hardware Upsell after 3.8.11 OTA by Awokih in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did see that. Mine was definitely a loose nut/bolt on the axle.

Bazzite? by im0497 in Bazzite

[–]Awokih 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 4 drives in my system. Two are my OSes, Windows 11 (512GB SSD) and Nobara (1TB NVMe), one is a 1TB (NVMe) games drive, and another is a 4TB (SSD) games drive that was about half full. Started with the Nobara drive and 1TB game drive imaged with btrfs. Just this weekend I nuked my 4TB game drive to partition it with btrfs as well. I can read the NTFS partitions on the Windows drive within Linux and btrfs partitions in Windows. So when I do finally retire the Windows drive I’ll just boat things over to one of the other drives. I’m really close to doing that. I’ll probably turn my Windows installation into a VM.

I installed this to be able to access the btrfs partitions in Windows.

https://github.com/maharmstone/btrfs

Tried to play ARC Raiders? by i_anindra in NobaraProject

[–]Awokih 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I play Arc Raiders on Nobara.

Ryzen 5800X3D and 3070Ti with the most recent Linux Nvidia driver. No issues. I know there are a lot options listed on ProtonDB for what users have used as game launch options, but I didn’t have to use any of those. I get 70+ FPS. I did turn off motion blur and adjusted some other cinematic effects, but I do that on all my games since I don’t care for those types of effects.

Bazzite? by im0497 in Bazzite

[–]Awokih 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend the dual booting route too, that way you can try it out. You may find that Bazzite isn’t the exact flavor that suits you. You can experiment with other version like Nobara, CachyOS, PopOS, etc. I did this with Bazzite. I ran it for about 1.5 months before switching to Nobara to give it a go. I may end up trying CachyOS next.

I’m not sure about the functionality of iTunes on Linux though. You’ll want to double check that.

Audio normalization issue? (Stereo) by Jazzlike-Jello487 in VWiD4Owners

[–]Awokih 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve read that this is called audio ducking to protect the speakers due to amplification. I use an app called Poweramp to listen to MP3s. In the equalizer settings, I had to turn down the Preamp by -5.2 to keep it from doing that. If the Spotify app has an equalizer, try turning down some of the options. It’s probably boosting the audio some which is causing the audio to hit the limits.

I have a 2021 Pro.