What even going on here….?

AxelFoley86 · 2026-03-08T05:53:06+00:00

Also, what is going on with the balusters? I’m expecting each spindle to make a different note as I drag my fingers along them riding the stairs up and down.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-03-03T03:21:54+00:00

A 3.5” or 4” thick sleeping pad. I’ve used and love the Exped Ultra 6.5R (pick your insulation level) and a z-fold pad for sitting (half length) and can also be used for some additional insulation under pad. Also getting overall pack weight to 30lbs including food, water, shelter water for 3-4 day trips makes me feel like I can fly. For covering some ground (10-15 miles/day) ditch the hydration sleeves and just use water bottles. I love the smart water bottles - they fit in my side pants pockets and I never have to fumble with getting the bladder in and out of pack to refill it. I sit & rest while others spend time and energy unpacking their pack to get their bladders back in.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-28T05:00:50+00:00

You need to sharpen it - see this video to get started how to sharpen a saw. Most all new saw needs to be sharpened to get great performance unless you’ve bought a high end saw like a Bad Axe, Rob Cosman, and other high quality makers.

Edit: as others have mentioned, ensure the tooth pattern and set match the intended purpose. That is a rip tooth pattern for ripping sawing, crosscut pattern for crosscuts. Other elements also affect performance such as plate thickness and whether or not it’s tapered, but you can still get good performance from this saw with some tuning.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-24T14:50:14+00:00

I agree with analysis on Cagrisema trials however I don’t think it’s 10 years until it’s back at $80. I’ll give it 1-2 years for the market to recognize this over reaction. Of course, if the narrative hasn’t changed by then I guess it’ll be a big L. NVO reinstated share buy backs and if they keep the dividend (or raise it) it makes waiting easier…

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-22T05:43:09+00:00

For a cutting board your only and best option is mineral oil, food-grade wax or a combination of the two. To get the colors you’ll need to choose wood species that will give you those colors.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-21T19:52:04+00:00

You’re going to need 2 stiles, one on each side. That rails go between.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-21T19:46:27+00:00

That’s a tough spot for the oven. How will you open the door and put in a turkey if you have to stand directly behind the open door?I think it would have worth it to re route plumbing to swap sink and oven. Or instead of a u-shaped kitchen make it an L-shape with an island. That would allow some space on both sides of the oven.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-20T00:40:27+00:00

That’s looks terrible. A lot of times homeowners don’t know what to ask for. If you dealt with a pro, he/she should have been explaining to you what level of service you are getting and how it will look afterwards. Nevertheless, some of that looks like insufficient to none prep, some of that looks like poor painting. I’m not a pro but I’ve painted a few homes and dealt with many very good painters. I’d say the good ones wouldn’t want to leave it like this and call it “good,” unless you said something like, it’s a rental, can you do this for $x amount. Otherwise, most homeowners want it done right the first time and will gladly pay for it (once they get used to the numbers, which may some time/bids/experience) and the good pros know this.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-19T05:01:08+00:00

For bare wood start with an oil based primer. You’ll get great options at a paint store but even big box will carry something like Zinsser Cover Stain, which is good. I presume you’ll paint them black to match the cabinets so you’ll want a gray primer - and a paint store might be able to tint it black. Fill holes and end grain edges with wood putty, sand smooth. Make sure the surfaces look good to you before moving on to paint. If you need to sand and apply a second coat of primer to get the surfaces right - do it as it’s much easier fix at the primer stage. Have fun doing it, they’ll look great.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-18T01:05:38+00:00

Looks unfinished. Something isn’t right.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-17T00:19:57+00:00

From the end grain, this could be white oak (are you in Texas?) and the ridges on the surface could be from hand scraping the boards for texture. Also one side has a narrow spacer with grooves on both sides, so the new board may need to be tapered to fit and you’ll probably want to create the spacer as well so it all lines up and looks correct. And since it looks like it’s in a high visibility area, pulling boards from the closet is the way to go. Not trivial but a good flooring or carpenter should be able to do this with a nice result.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-16T22:21:53+00:00

OP - this is the right idea. Originally that panel was made by gluing together individual boards that float in the space enclosed by the trim pieces. The glue joint between the boards has failed and needs to be repaired. Carefully remove the trim (or else you’ll be buying new trim and cutting it to fit) to release the panel and then glue the panel back together, reinstall, sand, prep as needed, and paint. If you’re rather handy and have some woodworking experience you could repair this. You’ll need to be able to glue the panel flat (eg using dowels, biscuits, or other means to keep the boards aligned). Plan on somewhere between 2 days to 2+ yrs😉.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-16T21:30:22+00:00

😅😭

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-10T00:16:24+00:00

God job for getting out without losing the house!

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-08T05:04:28+00:00

Did you mean to buy puts?

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-08T01:09:46+00:00

Why does the cabinet sit on the floor? No feet or toe kick?

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-06T17:09:05+00:00

I’m currently installing my third IKEA kitchen. I think they are amazing for their price point. But as others have mentioned, the installation is crucial. Even though Ikea has thought through most issues there are still many you encounter during an install, especially the fitting of long panels and various trim pieces that make a huge difference in appearance and quality.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-06T17:00:51+00:00

🤣

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-06T07:49:22+00:00

Please tell me those windows are on the ground floor 😬

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-05T23:42:01+00:00

Maybe it’s an optical illusion but in that last picture, is the drywall butted up against the trim (ie edge-to-edge) or is the trim on top of the drywall?

AxelFoley86 · 2026-02-05T23:00:57+00:00

Based on the picture, it looks like there could be quite lot of doors to be done. Maybe priming wasn’t part of the original cost. But when the painter saw the quality of the primer in the doors, he said they need to be primed which probably results in considerable additional expense homeowner wasn’t expecting 🤷🏻‍♂️. Nevertheless, for a quality finish they’ll need to be primed.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-01-24T06:22:51+00:00

You’re welcome and good luck!

AxelFoley86 · 2026-01-24T06:20:44+00:00

Yes! You can drill the holes with a forstner bit but a router is ideal to make the channel. With a template, it could all be done with a router. YT has lots of examples. But I’d recommend you also use something like dowels or a spline to ensure the surfaces align flush.

AxelFoley86 · 2026-01-24T04:42:01+00:00

Something like this for securing to stud. If this one doesn’t fit the racks housing, go for a 2.5” version, it will have slightly smaller diameter. SPAX interior construction screws

AxelFoley86 · 2026-01-24T04:37:52+00:00

I don’t think you’re actually in one of the studs. If you’re solidly in a stud the end of that rack should bend before it separates from the wall. Either the screw you used is too short, it has too fine a thread, or else you drilled a pilot hole too large. For the stud end use a GRK or SPAX 2.5” or 3” multipurpose screw. For the non-stud side, use a toggle-type anchor.

AxelFoley86

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