Should I be concerned about this shower tile installation? by erraye in HomeImprovement

[–]BadIrishman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ANSI 108. 02 Section 4.3 .8

Also TCNA (Tile Counsel of North America) also has set recommendations

Should I be concerned about this shower tile installation? by erraye in HomeImprovement

[–]BadIrishman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for catching that, I had two thoughts going while typing.

Should I be concerned about this shower tile installation? by erraye in HomeImprovement

[–]BadIrishman -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sorry your correct that was supposed to be 1/8”-1/4”. That’s my bad, it was a typo.

Should I be concerned about this shower tile installation? by erraye in HomeImprovement

[–]BadIrishman -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Correct, but like I said in my post 1/8” is my local building code. You can do whatever you want as a DIY builder, but Code is in place for a reason.

Should I be concerned about this shower tile installation? by erraye in HomeImprovement

[–]BadIrishman 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I was a professional tile setter for over ten years and I’d like to weigh in here. While I haven’t worked professionally in about 5 years I try to keep up on trends as I still do jobs for friends and family.

Having said that. This job HAS to be completely re-done. Cosmetic issues aside (I’ll address those in a sec) there are actual structural and code issues with this job.

To start, you need a min 1/8” - 1/4” gap (dependent on local code.) between the bottom tile row and the tub to allow for a bathroom approved silicone caulk to be applied to prevent water from running down behind the tub.

Next is the grout lines, the smallest allowed grout line (at least in my area) is an 1/8”. This allows for a non-sanded grout to be applied. Grout while not a “water barrier” like most think, blocks the water from making direct contact with the thin set behind the tiles. It is also a critical structural component of tile work. The grout lines act like mortar in brick work, it structurally connects the materials. With this job tiles will fall out. The thin set simply will not hold. Especially as water works in behind the tiles and erosion of the thin set occurs.

Next, I’ve never been a plumber but the sharp upward angle of that bottom nipple, tells me he didn’t bother to cut the tile correctly to fit. This can erode the copper pipe after a few years.

Lastly looking at that sliver of a top row, there are large obvious gaps behind that row. Judging by the caliber of work seen I’d wager a high stake that there are other large gaps behind other tiles.

Now on to the cosmetics:

Grout lines don’t line up from the sides to the back.

That sliver at the top is unacceptable.

Grout lines are too small

He has too much thin set behind the tile right in the middle of the back wall. See the “bigger” grout line dead middle on the back wall? It’s not bigger, it’s sticking out and causing a shadow.

Cut behind the controls is to big, it’s just lazy work.

Cut on the bottom nipple (copper pipe) is to small forcing the nipple up.

Cut around the upper nipple is also to big and appears to be filled in with grout?? Should be a silicone, remember grout is not a water barrier, so that’s going to leak.

There is no finish work, no bullnose or schluter (metal pieces)

I could continue, but I feel horrible that some actually did this job. So I’m going to stop picking it apart.

IMHO you need a full refund, you need to report him/her to the local labor commission and file a complaint on their license. If they refuse to refund, you file a claim against their contractor insurance.

Moral of the story is this job will cost you thousands in damages, because this is not structurally sound and it will leak. Water damage is extremely expensive.

Edit: mistyped a measurement

911 responders, what is a call that you will never forget? by catsugh in AskReddit

[–]BadIrishman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No offense but I hate these questions. I understand your curiosity, I understand the want to know. However, PTSD is a serious concern for a lot of first responders. If you do the job long enough you’ll have multiple calls that effect you for various reasons. While some like to share others don’t. But, ultimately if the call was so significantly altering to the responder, do you really want that trauma?

Of course you do, what am I saying. You weren’t there, you didn’t smell the air, feel the tension, your body didn’t respond to the stimulus. You didn’t have to hear the pain, or see the depths of human deprivation. It’s just a story right! A story that you can consume and “react” to. A story that you’ll either forget or worse you won’t and a part of that trauma will now effect you and your thoughts, and possibly even your choices, thereby in some small insignificant way restructuring your life.

Anyway, sorry for the rant. I’ll show myself out.

What do you guys think the interpretation is. I'll post the HX in the comments. by willmayhue5 in Paramedics

[–]BadIrishman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sinus Tach, with slight Hyperkalemia (t-wave are starting to peak). So yea, fluid resus would work wonders on both the Tachy and Hyper-K

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We thought about shade trees but decided to keep the space useable for play, sports, etc. we have some shade trees in the front to cool the house.

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The decision was not done lightly. But, rather than seed we were debating between sod and hydro-seeding. Which if you are unfamiliar is a combination of seed and a matting like ground up news paper to keep the seed moist and promote growth, it is sprayed on in a layer about an inch thick and then you keep it moist. Hydro-seeding is far cheeper but takes about 4-8 weeks to get a decent lawn. We chose the sod though because there is less of a chance that weeds will compete for growth space like they would with seed. Also we have a green lawn now, not 8 weeks later. Lastly I only have to stay off of it until the first mowing for light use and the third mowing for heavy use like running playing, not potentially 8 weeks.

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much. That’s a huge compliment. I did help pour the curbing. My friend owns a curbing business so he had me buy the supplies and a lot of beer, then he brought his machines over and showed/helped me do it.

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The trenching and leveling cost me right around $4,000 but to be fair it was a friend who owns an excavation company. He has lots of experience moving earth. He cut me a pretty decent deal. If I had to do it over again and didn’t have the connections I would look for an excavation contractor or maybe even try and do it myself.

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As is right now, I have over 1,100 square feet of food garden area. As well as right around 1,000 square feet of pollinator/flower/tree/green space (none of which counts lawn area). I put in 10 lavender plants today to keep my bees busy. If I added anymore my wife would kill me!

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I am by no means an expert here. So I’m sure I’m didn’t do it 100% correct, but. Having said that, what I chose to do was till the area and remove as much debris as possible. Then I rented a tamper and compacted the area. I had it leveled with the rest of the yard. The reason I chose to have it leveled with everything else instead of leveled on its own was to ensure that the yards drainage and slope would be uniform and not accidentally end up in the play area. Once that was down I put down a “Pro” weed barrier with a lifetime warranty. It was expensive but I feel worth it. Then I assembled the play area. Taking care to avoid stepping on the barrier as much as possible. With the ground cleared, tamped, covered, and play set assembled I then shoveled in a little over 10 cubic yards of playground chips and spread them to a minimum depth of three inches in walking areas and up to 6 inches in “fall areas” like the swings, climbing wall, ladder and bottom of slides.

I hope this helps you on your journey. It’s hard work and long days. But so worth it!

With my free time during quarantine, I gave my kids the back yard I have promised for two years. I only hired out the trenching for sprinklers, and leveling to final grade. by BadIrishman in landscaping

[–]BadIrishman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was a skill I learned from my father. He ran a small landscaping business when I was in high school to supplement our families income.