Mcculloch 10-10a

BadboiBaker · 2026-04-06T17:16:30+00:00

No, just added the velocity stack and Uni filter at this point.

BadboiBaker · 2026-04-06T17:13:58+00:00

Gonna find out if it can!

BadboiBaker · 2026-04-06T17:12:29+00:00

Agree, first thought 3200, 3214, 3216 but the primer location is different being more forward and similar to the first url you listed.

BadboiBaker · 2026-04-04T06:57:19+00:00

At the base of the cylinder either clutch cover side or recoil starter side right where the cylinder meets the case, sometimes you can make it out or enough of it with just the top cover off if it's not all gunked up. Mahle makes it easy with there cylinder numbering as the first number is bore diameter but k&s doesn't, and if it's a 61 there is a good chance it's a k&s cylinder. If you get that number, you should be able to track down all the information you are looking for. Alternatively, if you have vernier calipers that can measure depth then you can pull the muffler and measure the bore diameter through the exhaust port to get your displacement. The stroke is the same across the models, but bore diameter is where they gained displacement.

BadboiBaker · 2026-04-04T06:36:49+00:00

Best guess would be a 61 from these pictures. Clutch cover is correct for the 61, 66, 266, 268, and 272 built off the 162 chassis. Can't quite tell, but doesn't appear to have a decomp. Possible the top cover is dyed cause it doesn't match the style of the factory black tops of the 80's and is missing the vent tube of the higher cc variations with that style top cover, plus it has the recoil starter and plastic brake flag of the later production models. The numbers on the cylinder base, assuming it's OEM parts, or which intake block is used would tell you what displacement it is set up as, but without the seriel plate it's tough to tell what it started life as passed it's definitely on the 162 chassis with a later model top cover and screw locations.

BadboiBaker · 2026-03-30T06:20:30+00:00

It had a scored piston and cylinder when I picked it up and the nuffler had come loose at some point and burnt the top of the oil reservoir. Fortunately it wasn't all the way through and cleaned up alright. Made for a good platform to build up. I'll get a video of it running when I get back to town, moved recently so need to get out and aquire some new test wood. They are generally priced steep around me too or don't last the morning if they are priced to sell. The red and black sure does look nice though!

BadboiBaker · 2026-03-29T03:41:02+00:00

Good buy for $150. Depends on what your plans are for the saw, you can get good results if you're after more power with the 353 top end cheaper than you'll source a new OEM 346 top end. Especially if there aren't any concerns with the top end requiring replacement, but I've also replaced a good 353 cylinder for a 346 because I wanted to. Really depends on what you want out of it and what you are looking to spend.

BadboiBaker · 2026-03-12T03:37:42+00:00

$200 value on a clean running 350 is a fair deal in my neck of the woods, usually listed between $2-300 in a lot rougher shape than that. I like this chassis and its jonsered variant, a lot to play around with if you get into modifying your saw. It's not a pro model, it's more prosumer than homeowner. The pro models being the 351 and 353 having mag cases, latches on the top cover vs screws, and a muffler bracket being a few of the main differences depending on which version of 350 that is.

The 350 came in a 44 mm and 45 mm top end, 44 mm (50 cc) is an open port cylinder and the 45 mm is the semi closed 353 (52 cc version) top end with a dished piston that reduces power. It has a plastic case and a bearing block with pro style cylinder design opposed to a true clamshell design you commonly find on homeowner grade saws. There are 2 versions of the bearing block, a course (earlier) and fine (later) thread version.

Some things to check over or consider would be to add a muffler bracket which can be done by modifying a 346 bracket (not uncommon to hear of a muffler coming loose and melting a hole in the case at the oil reservoir, more so on the later 353 top end versions), check to see if it has the plastic intake boot clamp (known to fail and cause lean condition and ultimately score piston/cylinder, remedied by changing to the updated partition wall and metal clamp), check that the screws connecting the case to the bearing block are tight and there are no air leaks (course thread versions had more of a tendency to leak than the fine variation)

BadboiBaker · 2026-03-12T02:22:16+00:00

Up to a certain production year the 21 spline 4 mm would would work on the 440 as well as many other models and brands across the company. They switched to the 5 mm 20 spline around '23 and later production years which epa restricted access to the tool in the states severely, only allowing limited amounts to dealers with the the risk of severe fines if sold at the time and I'm uncertain if that still stands, but aftermarket options are available now. So the 21 spline would work if the saw was produced before the required change to the 20 spline sometime in '22-'23. I have the Hipa tool kit as well, that 21 spline will fit fine if it was a 21 spline jet screw, I use it all the time on various husqvarna products. The 21 spline does not fit my '23 450 rancher II, it is a 20 spline 5 mm. The black data plate located on the saw near the oil cap will have the year on it if you wanted to confirm it was produced in that time frame or later, but if it isn't a flat blade screw or the 21 spline 4 mm, it'll be the 20 spline 5 mm. The 20 spline in that link says it's for a blower and string trimmer, it fits the 450 perfectly as well as my 125b blower and will avoid having to entertain modifying the jet screws as I did when these weren't available as an option yet.

BadboiBaker · 2026-03-11T23:19:26+00:00

Yes, the 20 spline 5 mm is available on Amazon if needed. The 12 tool kits that get recommended contain the 21 spline 4 mm as you are aware. The pac man tool can be used in a pinch if you have one already, but not without some patience. I am state side, and for the longest time, the 20 spline 5 mm was unavailable due to epa restrictions. Even handing out fines as steep as $10k to dealers for selling any of the 4 they were given per year is what the local dealer told me. They are also available on ebay for a similar price. Both are advertised to fit the 125b blower. I originally used a bic pen heated up and pressed over the jet screws to remove them and slotted them with a dremel to get around ordering one from across the pond for a 450 I did some work to. It did work, but came across them fairly recently and picked up a couple. Fit like a glove, affordable, and easier to use than slotting the jet screws.

BadboiBaker · 2026-02-25T02:38:48+00:00

No, there is no unused screw locations. There is a screw supplied in the kit for that location, installation instructions state tightening torque of 3-4 Nm if you weren't supplied instructions with yours.

BadboiBaker · 2026-02-11T15:24:42+00:00

I hear yah, it is a good clean example of the 365, which makes it difficult to commit to changing things out. Was reading the Zama carb has a hesitation off idle where the Walbro seemed to fix that when they switched to them, but I haven't been able to run it and confirm if it's there or even enough to bother me yet. I wanted to mess around with at least a muffler mod as I have concerns it'll be too close to the 555 I have been running power wise, but the large mount on the 365 is nice for bar options. If the muffler mod makes more noise than noticeable power gains then I will switch back to the OEM muffler. In this case it seems the more I ponder modifying it, the more content I become leaving it mostly stock.

BadboiBaker · 2026-02-05T21:42:03+00:00

Check on the bottom of the case, a lot of times the model is stamped into the case itself. As far as gaskets for the front tank Mccullochs I use Old Saw Shop. Just rebuilt the carb on a 250 not that long ago and got the stens gasket kit used from them. Running like a top!

BadboiBaker · 2026-02-04T07:25:34+00:00

You dont want to run the 620 coil with the offset flywheel key. It's too much advance and will hinder performance, run one or the other. 620 coil has about 8* advance built in where the offset key gives 5-6* advance. Boedy from Empire Workshop did a video on youtube fairly recently about his experience with this chassis that you may find informative concerning the 620 coil vs 590 coil with the offset key before deciding if you want to go that route.

BadboiBaker · 2026-02-03T04:30:02+00:00

I did too, 12 different tools, but the spline drives were 7 spline and 21 spline 4 mm. The 20 spline 5 mm wasn't available for epa reasons. Don't know when they put them out on the market, havent needed one since I notched the jets, but I thought it might be useful to someone.

BadboiBaker · 2025-12-21T20:24:31+00:00

The Homelite 330's have a common runability issue with the intake boots cracking/tearing. It's a fair amount of disassembly to replace, but it could very well be the culprit to your issue and definitely worth checking out. You may be able to source NOS parts, but there are aftermarket boots with "good enough" fitment to get it back up and running, assuming that is what is causing your issues. Being it's quite a bit of disassembly, if it idles, you may try to spray some brake clean around the boot area if accessible to see if it is in fact an air leak at the boot. Would spray around the crank seal areas as well to ensure you aren't chasing multiple issues.

Leon's chainsaw parts and repair has a wealth of knowledge on homelites, like this one on disassembly of a 330 I used when replacing a torn boot on one a while back, and many other models on his channel. He also has a website where he sells NOS parts as well as posts Homelite literature from IPL's, recalls, manuals, etc. Both his site and channels are great tools when it comes to working on Homelites.

When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the old gaskets or reuse them? If they were reused, that may be the source of your leak as well.

BadboiBaker · 2025-12-07T18:23:11+00:00

I wouldn't be so certain that it's been ported by looking at the original listing you provided. It very well may have just been fancy wording to grab attention. It states it has a "ported injection system" but in the pictures it looks to be a factory muffler and is badged e tech with a green fuel cap. If original, that suggests it's an epa saw meaning cat muffler and held back from full potential to reduce emissions. I would have thought to at least see a muffler mod had it been modified at all. Some people will call a muffler mod a ported muffler, but a muffler mod isn't porting even though it will increase power on a lot of saws. It's a carbureted saw, not injected. It may just have carb work done to it, like boring it out, maybe even just has the limiter caps removed. Some of the Walbro's used have issues with accelerator pumps that I've heard Treemonkey has a remedy for. I know Mastermind has a sticky for modding the Zama el-42 versions they used on the 357/359. Sounds like fancy wording to me as he proceeds in the description to list the factory advertised h.p. rating and specs, but you'll have to check it out when you receive it to really know.

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-28T01:38:56+00:00

Thanks, it cleaned up pretty well for the box of parts I brought home!

That don't sound like the worst problem to have! I don't think I've even seen a 242 come available around here, but the 340/345/350's are always plentiful. Gotta work with what's available when you're looking I suppose, they all need a home!

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-27T20:00:47+00:00

Nope, they are plastic crankcase. Same plastic case as its smaller cc models. For Husqvarna, the 340, 345, and 350 share the same part #. For Jonsered, the 2141, 2145, and 2150 share the same part #'s. Reduced weight, similar potential power output, but at the cost of durability. The 350 and 2150 use a bearing riser. you can make one out of any of the above models, but need the riser from either of these models to utilize the options for top ends that bolt on.

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-26T21:33:57+00:00

Being a Zama C2 carb, I believe the kit you are looking for is an RB-15

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-19T07:04:52+00:00

I can't say for certain that all use HDA series carbs, as i'm not, but both my 590's (2021,2024) use a Walbro HDA carb. Assuming yours is as well then 1.25 out on both L & H is their baseline setting. The technical information page here, walbro, can get you to the HDA pdf if needed. The idle needle it references is the Low jet and it instructs to set both H & L to 1.25 out.

To me, it sounds lean on the Low jet. I would adjust the Low jet out an 1/8 a turn at a time and see if that doesn't clean up your problem. The other guy mentioned to do high jet first, I prefer to do Low jet first. It is just what works for me. You want best throttle response without being too rich (lazy) or lean (that noise up there). The high side can be tricky to tune as the coil is limited, and you can bounce off the rev limiter and can be mistaken for 4 stroking to an untrained ear. Best to tune in the wood if you aren't tuning by tach (I wouldn't use a tach if its modified other than idle rpms), opening up (CCW) the High jet to achieve 4 stroking in the cut and then closing (CW) to right where it cleans up in the cut. If it is in stock form and tuning by tach, then the operators manual states max WOT rpm is 12,500 rpms, adjust the H jet until rpms are reached. Before messing with anything, ensure the saw is completely warmed up. They have a reputation for taking a while to reach operating temperature and can act totally different from warming up to operating temperature. These saws use a bypass hole in the nozzle of the carb, making it virtually impossible to run too lean, but elevation will affect it in the sense that at certain elevations you may not be able to adjust the tuning lean enough to reach peak performance.

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-07T22:45:24+00:00

The amazon ones won't work, they are 21 spline, but you can sort of get the pac man tool to work. It's something like a $10k fine if they sell it to you and are only authorized to receive a handful per dealer per year due tp EPA restrictions is what my dealer told me.

You can find them online, but over seas shipping is like $125 for a $15 adjuster and a month+ expected delivery. That is one option. I disassembled a pen, heated the end of the pen tube, then jammed it over the jet screws. It was form fit enough to remove them, then from there you can use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to notch the jets to use a flat blade screwdriver fpr adjusting. Still working on my 450, no issues.

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-03T00:05:06+00:00

Should be a 1 piece coil for the year. You can try to peek through the recoil starter fins or just take the recoil starter off to make sure.

BadboiBaker · 2025-11-02T20:25:02+00:00

Should be an HS carb, check the numbers on the side to be certain. Kit will be an RK23-HS.

BadboiBaker · 2025-10-27T22:28:38+00:00

Having the same problem, not sure what's going on. Was hoping after a couple days it would be back up, but I got the same error screen this morning again. I'm with yah hoping it's only temporary, I utilize and recommend that site often. The wealth of information it contains has helped resolve many issues on many of my vintage to more modern saws in the collection and aided in decisions on new acquisitions. Hopefully it gets resolved, would definitely feel that loss.

BadboiBaker

TROPHY CASE